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• Postapokaliptični taksi – dio 2

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  	I didn’t paint the black inside because I figured it wouldn’t be visible from the outside, but I put it back in its place. I made a spare wheel from one of the original wheels, and I decided to put bigger, more massive wheels on the car, which I took off from a toy bought in Ofertissima for 10kn. I painted the rims of all 4 wheels as well as the spare one with Tamiya Flat Aluminum paint, and the tires with Necromancer Cloak (Army Painter). All of the model, I covered the Nuln Oil (GW) wash and again simulated the rust as on the body. I glued the wheels individually (without axles) under each fender, and the spare on the back cover. I painted the chassis matte black and glued it in place. Since the chassis was not to be seen I decided not to do weathering on it. The exceptions are the front, rear and side bumpers, which remained visible even after the chassis was mounted. I went through a similar procedure with them as before. Tamiya Flat Aluminum, Nuln Oil and then chipping and rust effects. I put significantly less rust on the rims and bumpers to get a prevented impression that the whole car was one piece of iron.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	According to the size of the bracket, I cut a piece of cardboard and glued styrofoam cubes to it to simulate some kind of load. I covered it all with a dried damp tissue, secured it with toothpicks, and soaked it in diluted PVA glue. When the glue dried, I trimmed the cover and painted it in a camouflage scheme using the colors: Field Gray + Cryot Wraith (Army Painter), Flat Brown (Vallejo Model Color), Earth (Ammo by Mig) and Flat Black (Scalecolor). Then I glued it to the roof.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Then I made another roll of wet tissue, tied it with black thread at the ends and painted everything in Earth (Ammo by Mig) color and covered it with Agrax Earthshade (GW) wash. I also glued the roll to the roof rack and tied it all together with black thread to make it look like the roof load was tied with a rope. Eventually I diluted the Earth paint a lot and in a few glazes crossed the tires, bumpers, fenders and lower body. The aim of this was to obtain a dust effect on these parts.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
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  	Crni unutarnji dio nisam bojao jer sam zaključio da se neće vidjeti izvana, ali sam ga vratio na njegovo mjesto. Od jednog od orginalnih kotača načinio sam rezervni kotač, a na auto sam odlučio postaviti veće, masivnije kotače koje sam skinuo s neke igračke kupljene u Ofertissimi za 10kn. Felge sva 4 kotača kao i rezervnog obojao sam Tamiya Flat Aluminum bojom, a gume Necromancer Cloak (Army Painter). Sve skupa prekrio sam Nuln Oil (GW) washem te opet simulirao hrđu kao i na karoseriji. Kotače sam individualno zalijepio svakog zasebno (bez osovina) ispod svakog blatobrana, a rezervni na stražnji poklopac. Podvozje (na Slici 2. narančasto) sprejem sam ofarbao u mat crnu i zalijepio na njegovo pripadajuće mjesto. Obzirom da se podvozje nije trebalo vidjeti odlučio sam da na njemu ne radim weathering. Izuzetak su prednji, stražnji i bočni branici koji su ostali vidljivi i nakon montoranja podvozja. S njima sam prošao slićan postupak kao i prethodno. Tamiya Flat Aluminum, Nuln Oil i onda chipping i rust effects. Na felge i branike stavio sam znatno manje hrđe kako bih dobio spriječio dojam da je cijeli auti jedan komad željeza. Sve opisano može se vidjeti na slikama 8. i 9.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Prema veličini nosača izrezao sam komad kartona (Slika 10) i na njega zalijepio kockice stirodura (Slika 11) kako bi simulirale nekakav teret. Sve sam to prekrio osušenom vlažnom maramicom, učvrstio čačkalicama i natopio razrijeđenim PVA ljepilom (Slika 12). Kada se ljepilo osušilo, pokrov sam obrezao i obojao u maskirnu shemu pomoću boja: Field Gray + Cryot Wraith (Army Painter), Flat Brown (Vallejo Model Color), Earth (Ammo by Mig) i Flat Black (Scalecolor). Zatim sam ga zalijepio za krov (Slika 13).
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Onda sam načinio još jedan smotuljak od vlažne papirnate maramice, na krajevima ga zavezao crnim koncem i sve obojao u Earth (Ammo by Mig) boju te prekrio Agrax Earthshade (GW) washem. Smotuljak sam također zalijepio na krovni nosač i sve zajedno povezao crnim koncem kako bi izgledalo da je krovni teret povezan užetom. Na kraju sam jako razrijedio Earth boju i u nekoliko glazeova prešao gume, branike, blatobrane i donje dijelove karoserije. Cilj ovoga bio je dobiti efekt prašine na tim dijelovima.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
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  Dalibor Čavić, 04.02.2021.
• Postapokaliptični taksi – dio 1

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  	In Mueller, I bought a Majorette VW Beetle in 1/64 scale for 25kn, so I decided to convert it. At first I thought of some kind of Mad Max version with machine guns, spikes, horns and skulls, but then I got the idea to turn it into a taxi from the post-apocalyptic period. You can see the look of the purchased Beetle below.
  
  	  
  
  	Sometimes I like to watch guys restoring little cars on Youtube. I transferred the viewing experience to this conversion as well. I started disassembling the car. The components are shown below. I changed some parts and discarded others in the further procedure as unnecessary.
  
  	  
  
  	I decided not to completely remove the paint from the metal part. Otherwise I would do it with a nail polish remover and, later, steel wool. Instead, I only removed parts of the paint in places with sandpaper and steel wire, thus simulating body damage.
  
  	  
  
  	I painted the body in yellow acrylic paints (Vallejo Model Color Sand Yellow + Vallejo Game Color Gold Yellow), and I cut out some elements from an old credit card. Roof rack, rear wheel and windshield protection, and left and right side reinforcement. Instead of the front side and rear windows and in place of the headlights, I put a mosquito net. The picture shows how I did not make the middle of the roof rack completely. Even then, the plan was to put some kind of load on the roof, so that part of the girder would not be visible anyway.
  
  	  
  
  	Figure 5 shows all the added elements painted in metallic paint (Vallejo Model Color Steel), and Figure 6 shows how I applied wash (GW Agrax Earthshade) to the entire body.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	On the front and back cover, I painted the decorations with turquoise (Army Painter Hydra Turquoise) to break the monotony of yellow. After that I started to simulate chipping and rust. For that I used Flat Black (Scalecolor) and Acrylic Rust Set (Secret Weapon) which I applied with a piece of sponge. That way I got irregular patterns of various shades of rust. Then I wrote the word "Taxi" in black and turquoise on the side door.
  
  	  
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  	U Muelleru sam za 25kn kupio Majorette VW Bubu u mjerilu 1/64 te sam se odlučio na njenu konverziju. Prvo mi je na pomisli bila nekakva Mad Max verzija s mitraljezima, šiljcima, rogovima i lubanjama, ali onda sam dobio ideju da ju pretvorim u taxi iz postapokaliptičnog razdoblja. Izgled kupljene Bube možete vidjeti niže.
  
  	  
  
  	Ponekad volim na Youtubeu gledati likove koji restauriraju male autiće. Iskustvo gledanja prenio sam i na ovu konverziju. Krenuo sam s rastavljanjem autića. Neke dijelove sam promijenio, a neke odbacio u daljnjem postupku kao nepotrebne.
  
  	  
  
  	Odlučio sam da neću u potpunosti skidati boju s metalnog dijela. Inače bih to radio skidačem laka za nokte i, kasnije, čeličnom vunom. Umjesto toga samo sam na mjestima brusnim papirom i čeličnom žicom skinuo dijelove boje i time simulirao oštećenja karoserije.
  
  	  
  
  	Karoseriju sam obojao u žuto akrilnim bojama (Vallejo Model Color Sand Yellow + Vallejo Game Color Gold Yellow), a od stare kreditne kartice izrezao sam elemente kojima od kojih sam načinio modifikacije. Krovni nosač, zaštitu zadnjih kotača i vjetrobranskog stakla, te ojačanje lijevog i desnog boka. Umjesto prednjih bočnih i stražnjeg stakla te na mjesto farova stavio sam mrežu za komarce. Na slici se može vidjeti kako sredinu krovnog nosača nisam izradio u cijelosti. Već tada u planu je bila staviti nekakav teret na krov pa se taj dio nosača ionako ne bi vidio.
  
  	  
  
  	Na Slici 5. mogu se vidjeti svi dodani elementi obojani u metalnu boju (Vallejo Model Color Steel), a na Slici 6. prikazano je kako sam na cijelu karoseriju aplicirao wash (GW Agrax Earthshade).
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Na prednjem i stražnjem poklopcu obojao sam ukrase tirkiznom bojom (Army Painter Hydra Turquoise) kako bi razbio monotoniju žute. Nakon toga krenuo sam simulirati chipping i hrđu. Za to sam koristio Flat Black (Scalecolor) te Acrylic Rust Set (Secret Weapon) koje sam nanosio komadićem spužvice. Na taj način dobio sam nepravilne uzorke raznih nijansa hrđe. Zatim sam crnom i tirkiznom na bočnim vratima napisao riječ „Taxi“. Rezultat se može vidjeti na Slici 7.
  
  	  
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  Dalibor Čavić, 04.02.2021.
• Markov TOP-TIP: Ikea – najbolja ne-hobby trgovina za hobby

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  	A recent discussion on the FB group Miniature Painters Croatia prompted me to write this Top-Tip. Namely, the discussion started around various non-hobby items used in our hobby, and thus about the stores where they can be purchased. As the store with the most diverse items, it turned out to be - Ikea.
  
  	So here are just a few of the items that are worth looking for the next time the path (or your Missus) leads you to Rugvica.
  
  	Lighting – Lamps and bulbs (Tertial lamp i Ryet 4000K bulb)
  
  	     
  
  	Cork coasters (Susig i Heat) – as a material, cork is frequently used in model making.
  
  	     
  
  	Artificial vegetation (Of course, Fejka comes first, but Invaendig is useful too)
  
  	     
  
  	Glass domes for your dioramas or large scale miniatures (Haerliga)
  
  	     
  
  	Wooden cutting boards (Oleby) as bases for your dioramas.
  
  	  
  
  	Picture frames (Ribba) as bases for your dioramas or frames for your „Boxed dioramas“
  
  	  
  
  	Workstation (Ivar) – very useful if your main concern is the lack of space.
  
  	  
  
  	Glass cases for displaying your works (Detolf as the most famous, but Billy with Oxberg doors is also an interesting option).
  
  	     
  "
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  	Nedavna rasprava na FB grupi Miniature Painters Croatia me potakla na pisanje ovog Top-Tipa. Naime, rasprava se povela oko raznih ne-hobby artikala koji se koriste u našem hobiju, a samim time i o trgovinama u kojima se mogu nabaviti. Kao trgovina sa najviše raznoraznih artikala ispostavilo se da je Ikea.
  
  	Stoga ovdje nabrajam samo neke od artikala koje se isplati potražiti sljedeći puta kada vas put (ili supruga) nanese do Rugvice.
  
  	Rasvjeta – lampe i žarulje (Tertial lampa i Ryet žarulja od 4000K)
  
  	     
  
  	Podloške od pluta (Susig i Heat) - kao materijal, pluto se često koristi u maketarstvu.
  
  	     
  
  	Umjetno raslinje za vegetaciju (naravno, Fejka na prvom mjestu, ali i Invaendig se isplati)
  
  	     
  
  	Staklene kupole za vaše figure/diorame (Haerliga)
  
  	     
  
  	Daske za rezanje (Oleby) kao podloge za diorame.
  
  	  
  
  	Okviri za slike (Ribba) kao podloge za diorame – ili pak okviri za tzv „Boxed diorame“
  
  	  
  
  	Radni stol/stalaža (Ivar) – jako korisna opcija pogotovo ukoliko vam fali mjesta u stanu.
  
  	  
  
  	Vitrine za izlaganje vaših radova (Detolf kao najpoznatiji, ali i Billy sa Oxberg vratima je iznimno povoljna opcija).
  
  	     
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  Marko Paunović, 22.01.2021.
• Austrijski kopljonoša

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  	In this short article I will try to show how I painted a historical figure in 1/72 scale. As a model, I used a pikeman from the Zvezda set 8061 17th century Austrian Musketeers and Pikemen. Zvezda is one of the most famous producers of plastic 1/72 figures and plastic models in general of highest quality, and the set of figures itself is very suitable for making a diorama of the Turkish siege of Vienna in 1683.
  
  	  
  
  	To start, the figure needs to be separated from the sprue with sharp hobby pliers. Care must be taken not to damage the figure. Therefore, it is better to cut away from the figure, and later cut off the excess sprue with a sharp hobby knife (for example no. 11). This is followed by the removal of mouldlines, and it is recommended to wash the figure in warm water with the addition of soap or dish detergent. Such figures are produced by injecting plastic into metal molds. To make the plastic easier to separate, the molds are coated with a mold releaser. Traces of this oil-like agent remain behind on the figure and can cause the primer and color not to be adhere well to the surface of the figure. Therefore, washing the figure is highly desirable.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	After the washed figure has dried, I fastened it to a plastic stopper with "patafix" and painted it with a gray primer from Army Painter. When the primer had dried, I coated the whole figure with a layer of Nuln Oil wash (GW) and let it dry again. The wash itself did not have as much of a "preshading" role as I wanted it to highlight details on the figure that I would have to paint later. This step is not so necessary, but it makes painting easier.
  
  	  
  
  	After the figure was prepped, I applied the base colors to the figure. As a reference, I used an illustration and an example of a colored figure on a box (boxart) which greatly shortened my search process for historical literature. The colors I used are Flat Red + Black Red (sleeves and feathers), Medium Blue (pants), Black (hair, beard and shoes), Gunmetal (armor, helmet, sword and spearhead), Basic Skintone (face), Leather Brown + Biege Brown (gloves), Bone White + Biege Brown (socks), Biege Brown + Orange Brown (pike). All paints are from the Vallejo Model or Game Color series. Leather Brown paint from Revell was used for the straps.
  
  	  
  
  	I then applied Reikland Fleshshade (GW) to the skin and Agrax Earthshade (GW) to the brown parts. All other parts (metal, red, blue) I coated with Nuln Oil. Already after this step, the figure took on a satisfying appearance that will be enough for some wargamers to play. However, I decided to do two "highlights" for each color (except black). I got the "highlights" by lightening the above colors, with the second "highlight" covering a smaller area than the first (layering). The glazing technique for coloring was out of the question because the figure is quite small. Eventually, I arranged the base and coated the figure with a layer of varnish. I mixed matte varnish (Pebeo) and satin varnish (Ammo by Mig) and diluted it a bit with water.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
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  	U ovom kraćem članku pokušati ću predočiti kako bojam povijesne figure u mjerilu 1/72. Kao model koristio sam kopljonošu iz Zvezdinog seta 8061 Austrijski mušketiri i kopljonoše 17. stoljeća. Zvezda je jedan od najpoznatijih i najkvalitetniji proizvođača plastičnih 1/72 figura i plastičnih maketa uopće, a sam set figura je vrlo pogodan za izradu diorame Turske opsade Beča 1683. godine.
  
  	  
  
  	Za sam početak, figuru je potrebno odvojiti od spruea oštrim hobi kliještima. Pri tome je potrebno paziti da se ne ošteti figura. Stoga je bolje rezati dalje od figure, a kasnije oštrim hobi nožićem (primjerice no.11) odrezati višak spruea. Nakon toga slijedi uklanjanje mouldlineova, a preporučuje se i pranje figure u toploj vodi s dodatkom sapuna ili deterdženta za suđe. Ovakve figure se proizvode se injektiranjem plastike u metalne kalupe. Da bi se plastika lakše odvojila, kalupi se premazuju sredstvom za odvajanje (eng.mould releaser). Tragovi tog sredstva zaostaju na figuri i mogu uzrokovati da se primer i boja ne prihvate dobro za figuru. Stoga je korak pranja figure vrlo poželjan.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Nakon što se je oprana figura osušila „patafixom“ sam ju učvrstio na plastični čep i obojao sivim primerom od Army Paintera. Kada se sloj primera osušio cijelu figuru premazao sam slojem Nuln Oil washa (GW) i pustio da se ponovo osuši. Sam wash nije imao toliku ulogu „preshadinga“ koliko sam želio da istakne detalje na figuru koje ću kasnije morati bojati. Ovaj korak nije toliko nužan, ali olakšava bojanje.
  
  	  
  
  	Nakon što je figura pripremljena nanio sam osnovne boje na figuru. Kao referencu koristio sam ilustraciju i primjer obojane figure na kutiji (boxart) što mi je uvelike skratilo postupak pretraživanja povijesne literature. Boje koje sam koristio jesu Flat Red + Black Red (rukavi i perjanica), Medium Blue (hlače), Black (kosa, brada i cipele), Gunmetal (oklop, kaciga, mač i vrh koplja), Basic Skintone (lice), Leather Brown + Biege Brown (rukavice), Bone White + Biege Brown (čarape), Biege Brown + Orange Brown (motka koplja). Sve boje jesu iz Vallejo Model ili Game Color serije. Za remenje je korištena boja Leather Brown od Revella.
  
  	  
  
  	Na kožu sam potom nanio Reikland Fleshshade (GW), a na smeđe dijelove Agraxt Earthsade (GW). Sve ostale dijelove (metal, crvena, plava) premazao sam Nuln Oilom. Već nakon ovog koraka figura je poprimila zadovoljavajući izgled koji će nekim wargamerima biti dovoljan za igranje. Ja sam se ipak odlučio odraditi i po dva „highlighta“ za svaku boju (osim crne). „Highlightove“ sam dobio posvjetljavajući gore navedene boje s time da je drugi „highlight“ pokrivao manju površinu od prvoga (layering). Tehnika glazinga za bojanje nije došla u obzir jer je figura dosta mala. Na kraju sam uredio bazu i figuru premazao slojem laka. Za lak sam pomiješao mat (Pebeo) i satin (Ammo by Mig) te ga malo razrijedio vodom.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
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      string(7) "dalibor"
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      string(5) "cavic"
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      string(6) "Tvrtko"
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      string(0) ""
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  Dalibor Čavić, 22.01.2021.
• Rad s rezinom

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      ["title_eng"]=>
      string(18) "Working with Resin"
      ["title_hrv"]=>
      string(13) "Rad s rezinom"
      ["mask_eng"]=>
      string(18) "working_with_resin"
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      ["content_eng"]=>
      string(4359) "
  
  	In this article, Jure describes the process of using resin on your bases.
  
  	Glue the masking tape first along the edge of the plinth. Superglue the plastic dam the same width as the base on the masking tape. Hot glue gun along the edges of the plastic dams. At one point, it started to leak, but I quickly reacted bringing a hot glue gun to that joint and the further leakage was stopped. Great progress compared to my previous attempt when it leaked in all directions, but again there is room for improvement. It should be easy to take off as the dams are glued to the masking tape, but it is possible that it breaks and sticks to the plinth. Afterwards it'll go to grinding and polishing anyway.
  
  	  
  
  	I used a series of grinders finishing with wet grinding 2000 grad. Polishing with some pvc paste. Preliminary tests proved to be satisfactory. I used oil on the side of the dams, so I expect to be able to use 1500 and 2000 immediately.
  
  	  
  
  	How to prevent leakage?
  
  	My one test was to go through all the edges with UV resin so that everything clogs up and then I pour in the rest. It was ingenious however the problem is if you tint the resin you pour then you can see the difference and you will never be able to get the exact shade afterwards so it will look bad. But if it goes clear then it is a recipe for success.
  
  	Phase 1. Everything removed. It looks ok. I am bothered by the capillarity and the edges are not completely level with the plinth. They protrude a millimeter outside. I'll scrape off the edge and sand everything.
  
  	  
  
  	Phase 2. All sanded and polished. Sides and the top Surface as well. Papers 130, 220, 500, 1000 and wet 1500 and 2000 grain.
  
  	The paste proved to be good for more open and flat areas such as the sides. The parts around which it is needed to be careful and weavey don’t quite function as I expected. I will pour a thin layer of UV resin and „fry it“ in place.
  
  	  
  
  	Phase 3. Extra polish work done with my Dremell. Everything is dry and polished – end effect: very good!
  
  	Conclusion: need to solve the capillary problem differently. The problem is further exacerbated if some reesin escapes during the process because the capillary trace remains higher in those places. I don't know if something can be smeared beforehand to reduce that effect. I used ordinary oil. It was super easy to take off, but the capillary effect is there.
  
  	Wet sanding is too sexy and satisfying process.
  
  	Paste for polishing will be good for the sides, but not for the top surface which should not be touched after curing.
  
  	I need to get more glass paints so I can mix colours. This green is a bit oversaturated for the model I intend to use.
  
  	  
  
  	I tried to paint the resin with acrylic inks, but it got foggy for some reason. I guess the medium in the ink reacts with the chemicals and a cloudy muddy mixture is formed. interesting for further experimentation, but not for the effect that I wanted there.
  "
      ["content_hrv"]=>
      string(4259) "
  
  	U ovom članku, Jure opisuje kako je izradio vodeni efekt na svojoj bazi.
  
  	Pik traku prvo zalijepiti po rubu plintha. Na njega super ljepilom plastične brane širine jednake kao i baza. Hot glue gun po rubovima. Na jedno mi je mjesto počelo curit, ali san brzom reakcijom hot glue gunom pucao na taj spoj i daljnje otjecanje je zaustavljeno. Velik napredak u odnosu na moj prethodni pokušaj kad je puštalo na sve strane, ali opet ima mjesta za napredak. Trebalo bi se lako skinit jer je na pik traku, ali moguće da je probilo i zaljepilo se za plinth. Kad skinem updateat ću. Ionako ide na brušenje i poliranje.
  
  	  
  
  	Koristio san niz brusova završno s mokrim brušenjem 2000 gradi. Poliranje s nekom pastom za pvc. Preliminarni testovi su se pokazali zadovoljavajući. S tim da san sada maza pregrade uljem pa očekujem da ću odma moć na 1500 i 2000. Jedino ako mi po plinthu bude proliveno onda krećemo s bauštelom pa fini finiš.
  
  	  
  
  	Kako spriječiti curenje?
  
  	moj jedan test je bio da sve rubove prođem UV resinom tako da se sve začepi i onda ulijem ostatak. To je bilo genijalno međutim problem je ako farbaš taj rezin koji ulivaš onda se vidi razlika, a nikad nećeš moć pogodit nijansu pa će bit loše. Ali ako ide clear onda je to recept za uspjeh.
  
  	faza 1. Sve skinuto. Izgleda ok. Smeta me kapilarnost i rubovi nisu skroz u nastavku plintha. Vire milimetar vani. Skinit ću skalperom rub i brusit sve.
  
  	  
  
  	faza 2. Sve izbrušeno i polirano. I strane i gornji rubovi. Papiri 130, 220, 500, 1000 i mokri 1500 i 2000.
  
  	Pasta se pokazala dobra za otvorenija i ravna područja kao šta su strane. Djelovi oko kojih treba pažljivo i vijugavo baš i ne funkcioniraju kako sam očekivao. Nalit ću uv rezin tanki sloj i zapržit ga na licu mista.
  
  	  
  
  	faza 3. Dodatno ispolirano polirkom na dremelici. Stavljen rezin i posušeno sve. Vrlo dobro.
  
  	Zaključak: drukčije rješit problem kapilarnosti. Dodatno se pojačava problem ako je tijekom procesa nešto rezina iscurilo jer trag kapilarnosti ostaje viši. Ne znam može li se nešto mazat, a da smanji taj efekt. Ja san maza s uljem. Super lako je bilo skinit, ali efekt je tu.
  
  	Mokro brušenje je pre sexy i zadovoljavajuć proces.
  
  	Pasta za poliranje će bit dobra za strane polirat, ali ne i za površinu. Površinu ne bi trenalo dirat.
  
  	Nabavit još boja za staklo da se može miksat. Ova zelena mi je pre saturirana u odnosu na model.
  
  	  
  
  	Proba san bojati i akrilnim inkovima, ali mi se muti iz nekog razloga. Valjda medium u inku reagira s rezinom i nastaje mutna blatnjava smjesa. interesantno za daljnje experimentiranje, ali ne i za efekt koji san tu želia.
  "
      ["created"]=>
      string(19) "2021-01-22 09:08:14"
      ["modified"]=>
      string(19) "2021-01-22 09:08:14"
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    ["Member"]=>
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      ["id"]=>
      string(2) "97"
      ["group_id"]=>
      string(1) "2"
      ["first_name"]=>
      string(4) "Jure"
      ["last_name"]=>
      string(5) "Cukar"
      ["first_name_mask"]=>
      string(4) "jure"
      ["last_name_mask"]=>
      string(5) "cukar"
      ["username"]=>
      string(4) "Jure"
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      string(0) ""
      ["born"]=>
      string(19) "2000-06-16 09:24:00"
      ["created"]=>
      string(19) "2020-03-31 09:26:25"
    }
  }
          

  Jure Cukar, 22.01.2021.

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