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Radionica bojanja minijatura - Bista Kriegera

06.05.2021., objavio Marko Paunović u Obavijestima iz radionice

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VRIJEME: 22. i 23.5.2021. 10-18h

MJESTO: Zagrebačka zajednica tehničke kulture, Trg žrtava fašizma 14, Zagreb

VODITELJI: Marko Paunović i Ana Polanšćak

SADRŽAJ:
Radionica će se provoditi kroz dva dana (cijeli vikend) i polaznici će bojati bistu Kriegera. Glavni fokus ovih predavanja bit će bojanje kamuflaže, tekstura grubog tekstila, kožnatih tekstura, metala i weatheringa. Time vođeni, voditelji su izabrali prikladnu postapokaliptičnu bistu koju će svi polaznici bojati....

Pročitaj više o "Radionica bojanja minijatura - Bista Kriegera"

MPC Spring Painting Competition 2021

Datum događaja: 18.04.2021., 14:41h - 30.06.2021., 23:59h 18.04.2021., objavio Marko Paunović u Najavama i reportažama događanja

DOBRODOŠLI U NOVO NATJECANJE FB GRUPE Miniature Painters Croatia!

I ovog puta ime ostaje isto Spring Painting Contest – kratica ostaje ista :D MPC SPC :D

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Dobro proučite pravila natjecanja i budite slobodni postavljati (razumna :D ) pitanja. Molimo vas da poštujete pravila natjecanja kako ne bi bilo neželjenih diskvalifikacija jer pravila su za sve jednaka.

>> PRAVILA NATJECANJA! <<

1. Natjecanje je otvoreno samo članovima grupe Miniature Painters Croatia i to za...

Pročitaj više o "MPC Spring Painting Competition 2021"

Hobby kutak srijedom 2021

02.04.2021., objavio Marko Paunović u Obavijestima iz radionice

Pozivamo vas na Hobby Kutak Srijedom!

Mjesto: Kino dvorana ZZTK, Trg žrtava fašizma 14, Zgb

Termini: Srijedama u 2021. (ukoliko epidemiološke mjere dozvole)

Vrijeme: 18:00 – 22:00

Hobby Kutak Srijedom je zamišljen kao suma besplatnih aktivnosti u prostoru kojeg koristi UMS „Agram“ u terminima srijedom navečer. Većina aktivnosti je otvorena za sve, uz neke pogodnosti za članove UMS „Agram“ poput skladištenja minijatura (koje farbaju u otvorenim radionicama bojanja minijatura...

Pročitaj više o "Hobby kutak srijedom 2021"

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Najnoviji članci

  • Markov Top Tip – kako napraviti vlastito postolje za bistu
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        string(60) "Marko’s Top Tip – How to make your own plinth for a bust"
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    In preparation for this year's Miniature Painting Workshop - Krieger Bust, a problem arose because the standard wooden cubes we use for bases for the busts were not available. So I opted for a slightly more complicated version. I got large wooden miniatures at the Chemaco hobby store (for Čovječe, ne ljuti se, I guess).

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    First I had to behead the miniatures which I did using a Proxxon table saw. The same can be done with a model saw without too many problems.

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    After that I sanded the cut with a disc sander. Also, if you do not have such a tool, you can do the same with plain sandpaper.

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    This was followed by drilling holes for the bars which hold the busts. Since we would be using brass rods with a diameter of 4 mm, the holes were drilled with a 4 mm drill.

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    And finally, after the brass rod / pipe was cut into "slices" of about 4 - 5 cm, each stand got its own rod which was glued with super glue.

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    " ["content_hrv"]=> string(2530) "

    U pripremi ovogodišnje Radionice bojanja minijatura – Bista Kriegera, javio se problem jer standardne drvene kocke koje koristimo kao baze za biste nisu bile dostupne. Stoga sam se odlučio za malo kompliciraniju verziju. U hobby trgovini Chemaco sam nabavio velike čovječuljke (za Čovječe ne ljuti se, valjda).

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    Prvo sam morao odrubiti glavu čovječuljcima što sam učinio pomoću Proxxon stolnog cirkulara. Isto to se može učiniti i modelarskom pilicom bez previše problema.

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    Nakon toga sam sa cirkularnom brusilicom pobrusio rez. Također, ukoliko nemate takav alat, isto možete učiniti sa običnim brusnim papirom.

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    Nakon toga uslijedilo je bušenje rupa za šipke za biste. Budući da ćemo na Radionici koristiti mesingane šipke promjera 4 mm i rupe su izbušene svrdlom promjera 4 mm.

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    I za kraj, nakon što je mesingana šipka/cijev izrezana na „šnite“ od cca 4 - 5 cm, svako postolje dobilo je svoju šipku koja je zalijepljena super ljepilom.

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    " ["created"]=> string(19) "2021-05-17 09:31:04" ["modified"]=> string(19) "2021-05-17 09:31:04" } ["Member"]=> array(10) { ["id"]=> string(2) "35" ["group_id"]=> string(1) "1" ["first_name"]=> string(5) "Marko" ["last_name"]=> string(9) "Paunović" ["first_name_mask"]=> string(5) "marko" ["last_name_mask"]=> string(8) "paunovic" ["username"]=> string(5) "marko" ["password"]=> string(40) "775916114da8d49f1647decef7fb412e0964baae" ["born"]=> string(19) "2033-03-07 20:35:00" ["created"]=> string(19) "2009-06-02 20:37:03" } }
    Marko Paunović, 17.05.2021.
  • Izrada vinjete za Wyrd Spring Competition – dio 1: Izrada drveta
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        string(76) "Making a vignette for Wyrd Spring Competition – part 1: Making a wire tree"
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    In this article Matija Koružnjak explains how to make your own realistic wire tree.

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    For a start, I stripped a few electrical wires and simply began to weave the three bundles of copper into the trunk of the tree. I shaped the lower ends into shorter and thicker branches that would act as a root, and I woven the upper ones into branches according to some supposed principle of growth. The process comes down to simply separating and twisting an ever-decreasing number of wires until you reach one wire, i.e. a branch. For simpler trees with lots of vegetation, you can use a smaller number of thicker wires.

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    When we have finished the skeleton of the tree, it is necessary to shape, ie texture the trunk. Depending on the amount of extremely visible surface, you can only texture the trunk or go into detail down to the tiny branches. This trunk required two, sometimes three transitions with texture, especially on smaller branches where at the first transition only a blob of texture was formed.

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    For the texture I used slightly coarser sand, crushed tea and PVA glue (drvofix). After drying, the mixture took on a final greenish color which in combination with the underlying copper gave a rather convincing look to the trunk.

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    The making of the canopy depends on the type of tree and the level of detail you want to achieve. Here I wanted to make a cherry tree in bloom and the dried sea foam had that final look of flowers that I wanted to achieve. I have noticed that sea foam comes in various variants, although it is always advertised only as "sea foam". For more lush canopies you can use moss, sponge or something similar, and for more detailed flock and even miniature leaves or similar "premade" plants.

    A simpler process involves covering the entire tree with spray glue and adding a piece of sponge / foam / moss or spraying smaller elements like salt bae.

    For this tree, I cut a bunch of smaller twigs and bouquets and individually glued each to the branches of the tree.

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    The end result quite impressed me and, sorry for the modesty, I consider this to be the most realistic tree I have ever held in my hands.

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    The finishing touches included only painting the flowers like buds on the cherry and subsequently pulling out the branches affected by the overspray. The airbrush here seemed to me to be the most elegant, and perhaps the only solution given the thrust strength, and the canopy was given one coat of mixed pink and one finishing touch of white.

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    End result – awesomesauce!

    What say you?

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    U ovom članku Matija Koružnjak objašnjava kako izraditi realistično drvo.

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    Za početak sam ogolio nekoliko električnih žica i tri svežnja bakra jednostavno poceo plesti u deblo drveta. Donje krajeve sam oblikovao u kraće i deblje krakove koji će glumiti korijen, a gornje sam prema nekakvom pretpostavljenom načelu rasta ispleo u grane. Proces se svodi na jednostavno odvajanje i uvijanje sve manjeg broja žica dok ne dođete do jedne žičice, tj. grane. Za jednostavnije drveće s puno raslinja možete upotrijebiti manji broj debljih žica.

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    Kada smo završili kostur stabla, potrebno je oblikovati, tj. teksturirati deblo. Ovisno o količini krajnje vidljive površine, možete teksturirati samo deblo ili ići u detalje do sitnog granja. Za ovo deblo trebalo je dva, ponegdje i tri prijelaza teksturom, pogotovo na manjim granama gdje se pri prvom prijelazu uglavnom formirala samo loptica teksture.

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    Za teksturu sam korsitio nešto grublji pijesak, zdrobljeni čaj i PVA ljepilo (drvofix). Po sušenju, mješavina je poprimila završnu zelenkastu boju koja je u kombinaciji s podložnim bakrom dala prilično uvjerljiv izgled debla.

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    Izrada krošnje ovisi o tipu stabla i razini detalja koji želite postići. Ovdje sam želio napraviti stablo trešnje u cvatu i sušeni sea foam imao je taj završni izgled cvjetova koji sam želio postići. Primijetio sam kako sea foam dolazi u raznim varijantama iako je uvijek oglašeno samo kao „sea foam“. Za bujnije krošnje možete korstiti mahovinu, spužvu ili nešto slično, a za detaljnjije flock pa čak i minijaturno lišće ili slično „premade“ raslinje.

    Jednostavniji proces uključuje prekrivanje čitavog stabla ljepilom u spreju i dodavanjem komada spužve/pjene/mahovine ili škropljenjem manjih elemenata kao salt bae.

    Za ovo sam stablo odrezao gomilu manjih grančica i buketa i individualno svaku lijepio na grane stabla.

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    Završni rezultat prilično me ipresionirao i, pardon na skromnosti, smatram kako je ovo najrealističnije drevo koje sam držao u rukama.

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    Završna obrada uključivala je još samo bojanje cvjetova poput pupoljaka na trešnji i naknadno izvlačenje grana koje je zahvatio overspray. Airbrush mi se ovdje činio kao najelegantnije, a možda i jedino rješenje s obzirom na jačinu potiska te je krošnja dobila jedan sloj izmješane ružičaste i jedan završni prelet bijelom.

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    Završni rezultat – awesomesauce!

    Što vi kažete?

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    Marko Paunović, 10.05.2021.
  • Saga o bistekima (dio 5)
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    If you are a bit older and from Zagreb, you probably remember Saga o Pičekima? If not, the joke will elude you. Well, hopefully beside the Croatian pun, you will like the rest of this saga. Goran and Marko will take you on a miniature painting journey while they build and paint one and the same bust for their Admin Challenge. Why call it a saga? Because everyone who knows them knows this will take a while to finish.... They chose a bust by Crecy Models that comes in two options – as King Ladislav Jagellone and as Grand Master of Teutonic Order Ulrich von Jungingen. Goran and Marko will do different versions...

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    GORAN: Since I’ve been working on the cloak last 2-3 sessions, I’ll only briefly look back on it this time because I’ve finished it. What I have learned is that the strongest highlights should be placed in the direction of the imagined light source, as they look too uniform and equally prominent on all the more prominent folds. The colors used are Nacar, Mojave White and White Sands from Scale75, I started with a mixture of Nacar and Mojave White to emphasize the wrinkles and soften the transitions, and then I added White Sands to this mixture for further work on the mantle. I finished the cloak with a highlight of pure White Sands.
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    MARKO: well, what to say... not a lot I did this week. On the Jagellone bust – nothing. But I did manage to finish a Krieger bust for our upcoming weekend Miniature Painting Workshop. Once I was finished painting, I cut the rods for all the busts that the participants will use. And that's about it...
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    GORAN: Then I started painting the chain mail vest, I made the basecoat by mixing Graphene Gray with Heavy Metal in a 1: 2 ratio, and then I made the first shade with Citadel’s Drakenhof NIghtshade
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    Sjećate se Sage o Pičekima? E pa ovo je naša verzija. Goran i Marko su naši Pičeki i nadamo se da će vas zabaviti svojim pričama o slaganju i bojanju jedne te iste biste u njihovom Admin Challenge-u. Zašto saga? Jer imamo dojam da će njihova rabota potrajati izvijesno vrijeme... Za sve vas koji se pitate, bista koju bojaju je od tvtke Crecy Models i dolazi u obje opcije – kao kralj Ladislav Jagelović i kao Veliki Meštar teutonskog reda Ulrich von Jungingen. Zbog raznolikosti, Pičeki su se dogovorili da će raditi različite verzije.

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    GORAN: S obzirom da protekla 2-3 puta radim na plaštu, samo kratko ću se na njega osvrnuti ovaj put jer sam ga dovršio. Ono što sam naučio jest to da najjače highlight-ove treba stavljati u smjeru zamišljenog izvora svjetla, jer mi izgledaju prejednolično i podjednako istaknuto na svim istaknutijim naborima. Korištene boje su Nacar, Mojave White i White Sands od Scale75, krenuo sam sa mješavinom Nacar i Mojave White isticati nabore i ublažavati prijelaze, te sam zatim u tu mješavinu dodao White Sands za daljnji rad na plaštu. Završio sam plašt highlight-om čistim White Sands.
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    MARKO: što reći, koju poruku poslati? osim da ovoga tjedna nisam baš puno toga odradio. Na bisti Ladislava Jagelovića, apsolutno ništa. Pripremao sam ogledni primjerak biste Kriegera za našu novu vikend Radionicu bojanja minijatura. A onda sam se bavio i rezanjem štiftova za sve biste za sve polaznike.
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    GORAN: Zatim sam krenuo raditi prsluk od chain mail-a, osnovni sloj sam napravio tako da sam Graphene Grey pomiješao sa Heavy Metal u omjeru 1:2, te sam zatim Citadel-ovim Drakenhof NIghtshade-om napravio prvu sjenu.
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    Goran Krunić, 08.05.2021.
  • Diorama: Italija 1986. - dio 7 – početak bojanja (cigle i kamen)
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    Some time ago, I stopped with my articles about diorama Italy 1986. However, I managed to complete it for this year’s Black Queen Hobby and Miniature Painting Competition. Therefore, the following is a continuation of the articles in which I will describe the painting of the diorama, but also the figures I used.

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    In this sequel, I will deal with painting bricks and stone surfaces. But before I started, it was necessary to protect the base from getting dirty during painting. I did this with masking tape which I carefully placed in all the places I wanted to protect.

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    Then I basecoated the brick and stone parts. I used orange for the bricks, while I painted the stone surfaces with gray.

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    After the basecoat had dried, I applied a couple of coats of lighter drybrushes that I covered with a couple coats of washes (Ogryn Fleshshade and Nuln Oil, and a few combinations of them). After that, when the wash dried, I added the final highlight to the brick surfaces. This was followed by weathering. I used white, green and olive green oils, the excess of which I removed using Odourless Thinner.

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    When I finished with the bricks, I threw myself on the stone surfaces (steps and tiles on the square). I decided that these tiles should be two-tone - gray (like stone) and reddish. I put on the base color, a couple of coats of drybrush and finally a few washes (Nuln Oil, Athonian Camoshade and combinations).

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    Pred neko vrijeme, sam stao sa člancima o diorami Italija 1986. Međutim, uspio sam ju dovršiti za ovogodišnje natjecanje Black Queen Hobby and Miniature Painting Competition. Stoga slijedi nastavak članaka u kojima ću opisati bojanje diorame, ali i figura koje sam koristio.

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    U ovom nastavku bavit ću se bojanjem cigle i kamenih površina. No prije svega, bilo je potrebno zaštititi bazu da se ne zaprlja tijekom bojanja. To sam učinio sa krep trakom koju sam pažljivo postavio na sva mjesta koja sam želio zaštititi.

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    Zatim sam obojao ciglene i kamene dijelove u osnovnu boju (Basecoat). Za cigle sam koristio naranđastu boju, dok sam sivom bojom odradio kamene površine.

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    Nakon što se osnovna boja osušila, stavio sam par slojeva svijetlijih drybrusheva koje sam prekrio sa par slojeva washeva (Ogryn Fleshshade i Nuln Oil, i nekoliko njihovih kombinacija). Nakon toga, kada se wash osušio, dodao sam završni hajlajt na ciglene površine. Zatim je uslijedio weathering. Koristio sam bijela, zelena i maslinasto zelena ulja, čiji višak sam maknuo koristeći Odourless Thinner.

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    Kada sam završio sa ciglom, bacio sam se na kamene površine (stepenice i pod trgića). Odlučio sam da te pločice budu dvobojne – sive (kao kamen) i crvenkaste. Stavio sam osnovnu boju, par slojeva drybrusha i na kraju nekoliko washeva (Nuln Oil, Athonian Camoshade i kombinacije).

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    Marko Paunović, 06.05.2021.
  • Saga o bistekima (dio 4)
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    If you are a bit older and from Zagreb, you probably remember Saga o Pičekima? If not, the joke will elude you. Well, hopefully beside the Croatian pun, you will like the rest of this saga. Goran and Marko will take you on a miniature painting journey while they build and paint one and the same bust for their Admin Challenge. Why call it a saga? Because everyone who knows them knows this will take a while to finish.... They chose a bust by Crecy Models that comes in two options – as King Ladislav Jagellone and as Grand Master of Teutonic Order Ulrich von Jungingen. Goran and Marko will do different versions...

    Click for enlarged picture

    MARKO: What I forgot last time, this time I stol… borrowed and brought with me to the Hobby Corner on Wednesdays. A technical pencil. I lightly sketched on both shields the elements (a checkered plate on one plus a half lion half a bird on the other). After being relatively pleased with the look, I set out to apply the base paints. Then I added a couple of highlights to the design. This is enough for this phase since I plan to add light weathering towards the end of the painting.
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    GORAN: This time I continued to work on the cloak, with the same color palette as last time. The colors used are Scale75: Rainy Gray, Nacar, Birch and Mojave White. Here it is important to note that I used a fairly diluted paint, which is also called glazing. I think I could work with an even thinner color and be more patient, but even this is more than good for my skill level.
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    I first set out to fix the shadows using Rainy Gray. I drew the shadows by taking a slightly thicker brush (2 from the da Vinci Maestro series for example), and where the recess in the mantle was widest I applied the most pressure with the brush, so that the most paint would accumulate there. Then, while the shadow paint on the miniature was drying, I set off with a mixture of Rainy Gray and Nacar to fix the transitions between the shadow and the area next to the shadow, as they seemed relatively uneven and rough (although the roughness turned out to be a texture mantle).
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    MARKO: Then I set out to work on the cloak. If you remember, last time there were white stains from washing. This time I managed to cover those and add a few more layers of shadows ... As the cloak goes towards the shoulders, so the color becomes lighter. At least that's the idea.
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    GORAN: Then I set out to lighten the shields on the shoulders and even out the layers of a lighter color, with pure Nacar. I also further evened out the layers and thickness of the lighter colors on the shields on the shoulders, also using Mojave White.
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    Then I started to smooth the transitions towards the lighter parts of the crease with an equally clean Nacar, here I leaned the brush against the crease itself, and I evenly smoothed the transitions near the tops of the creases with equally uniform movements towards the lighter part of the crease. Then, with a mixture of Nacar and Birch, I started to lighten the tops of the folds, the same technique of applying the brush to the folds, and uniform movements towards the lighter part of the folds. In the next step, I used Mojave White, and I additionally lightened the creases with the brush application technique along the crease tips.
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    MARKO: For the end, I painted the fabric on the bust’s chest in a base red color. After I paint every layer on the gown, only then will I add the white eagle.
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    " ["content_hrv"]=> string(6561) "

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    Sjećate se Sage o Pičekima? E pa ovo je naša verzija. Goran i Marko su naši Pičeki i nadamo se da će vas zabaviti svojim pričama o slaganju i bojanju jedne te iste biste u njihovom Admin Challenge-u. Zašto saga? Jer imamo dojam da će njihova rabota potrajati izvijesno vrijeme... Za sve vas koji se pitate, bista koju bojaju je od tvtke Crecy Models i dolazi u obje opcije – kao kralj Ladislav Jagelović i kao Veliki Meštar teutonskog reda Ulrich von Jungingen. Zbog raznolikosti, Pičeki su se dogovorili da će raditi različite verzije.

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    MARKO: Ono kaj sam zaboravio prošli put, ovoga puta sam u firmi mazn... posudio i donio na Hobby kutak srijedom. Tehničku olovku. Lagano sam skicirao na oba štita elemente (šahovnica a jednom plus polu lav polu ptica na drugom). Nakon što sam bio relativno zadovoljan izgledom, krenuo sam nanositi osnovne boje. Potom sam dodao par hajlajta na dizajn. Ovo je dovoljno za ovu fazu s obzirom da planiram pred kraj bojanja dodati i lagani weathering.
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    Click for enlarged picture
    Click for enlarged picture

    GORAN: Ovaj puta sam nastavio raditi na plaštu, sa istom paletom boja kao i prošli put. Korištene boje su Scale75: Rainy Gray, Nacar, Birch i Mojave White. Ovdje je važno napomenuti da sam koristio dosta razrjeđenu boju, koja se još naziva premaz, odnosno glaze na engleskom. Smatram da bih mogao raditi sa još razrjeđenijom bojom i strpljivije, ali i ovo je za moju razinu vještine više nego dobro.
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    Prvo sam krenuo popravljati sjene pomoću Rainy Gray. Sjene sam crtao tako što sam uzeo nešto deblji kist (2 od da Vinci Maestro serije npr.), te sam tamo gdje je udubina u plaštu najšira radio najveći pritisak kistom, kako bi se najviše boje tamo nakupilo. Zatim sam, dok se još boja za sjenu na minijaturi sušila, krenuo sa mješavinom Rainy Gray i Nacar popravljati prijelaze između sjene i područja neposredno uz sjenu, obzirom da su mi djelovali relativno neujednačeni i hrapavi (iako se za hrapavost ispostavilo da je riječ o teksturi plašta).
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    MARKO: Zatim sam se bacio na plašt. Ako se sjećate, prošli put su ostale bijele mrlje od washanja. Ovoga puta sam ih uspio prekriti i dodati jos nekoliko slojeva sjena... Kako plašt ide prema ramenima, tako i boja postaje svjetlija. To je bar ideja.
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    GORAN: Zatim sam štitove na ramenima krenuo posvjetljavati i ujednačavati slojeve svjetlije boje, čistim Nacar-om. Također sam dodatno ujednačavao slojeve i debljinu svjetlijih boja na štitovima na ramenima, isto tako koristeći Mojave White.
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    Zatim sam krenuo sa isto tako čistim Nacar-om ujednačavati prijelaze prema svjetlijim dijelovima nabora, ovdje sam prislanjao kist uz sam nabor, te sam blizu vrhova nabora isto tako ujednačenim pokretima prema svjetlijem dijelu nabora ujednačavao prijelaze. Potom sam mješavinom Nacar-a i Birch-a Krenuo posvjetljavati vrhove nabora, istom tehnikom prislanjanja kista uz sam nabor, te ujednačenim pokretima prema svjetlijem dijelu nabora. U sljedećem koraku sam koristio Mojave White, te sam dodatno posvjetljavao nabore tehnikom prisljanjanja kista uz vrhove nabora.
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    MARKO: Za kraj obojao sam tkaninu na prsima u osnovnu crvenu boju. Nakon što obojam sve hajlajte na halji, tek onda ću dodati bijelog orla.
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    " ["created"]=> string(19) "2021-05-02 16:46:07" ["modified"]=> string(19) "2021-05-02 16:46:07" } ["Member"]=> array(10) { ["id"]=> string(2) "46" ["group_id"]=> string(1) "2" ["first_name"]=> string(5) "Goran" ["last_name"]=> string(7) "Krunić" ["first_name_mask"]=> string(5) "goran" ["last_name_mask"]=> string(6) "krunic" ["username"]=> string(6) "GoranK" ["password"]=> string(40) "bd911c73eb78686e59996538590c37e24ced47f6" ["born"]=> string(19) "2012-06-05 22:39:00" ["created"]=> string(19) "2012-06-05 22:40:18" } }
    Goran Krunić, 02.05.2021.

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