Najnovije obavijesti

Slice of Life - hrvatski kratki SF film

20.07.2020., objavio Marko Paunović u Novostima

Nezavisni hrvatski kratki SF film, financiran putem crowdfundinga.

režija: Luka Hrgović & Dino Julius

uloge: Anton Svetić, Ivica Pustički, Emilia Habulin

 

Kratki dokumentarac o izradi filma i maketa za film:

Rezultati online natjecanja Miniature Painters Croatia Spring Painting Competition 2020

02.07.2020., objavio Marko Paunović u Novostima

Tijekom karantene zbog Covid-19 pandemije, UMS "Agram" je organizirala online natjecanje u bojanju minijatura na našoj FB grupi Miniature Painters Croatia. Natjecanje je  bilo sponzorirano od uvijek velikodušne Carte Magice. Pravila su zahtjevala samo nove radove, rađene isključivo za ovo natjecanje i pristiglo je pregršt radova, a ovo su najbolji od njih: 

1. mjesto: Jure Cukar

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2. mjesto: Filip Knezović

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3. mjesto: Ivan Knezović

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Odabir publike: Ivan Knezović...

Pročitaj više o "Rezultati online natjecanja Miniature Painters Croatia Spring Painting Competition 2020"

Galerija radova sa natjecanja Miniature Painters Croatia – Spring Painting Competition 2020

15.06.2020., objavio Marko Paunović u Novostima

Ovo je galerija radova sa ovogodišnjeg online natjecanja u bojanju minijatura pod nazivom MPC Spring Painting Competition kojeg je UMS Agram organizirao na FB groupi Miniature Painters Croatia.

>> PRAVILA NATJECANJA! <<

1. Natjecanje je otvoreno samo članovima grupe Miniature Painters Croatia i to za SVE članove, bez obzira na „skill level“!
2. Izložak mora biti isključivi rad jednog člana grupe. Nema grupnog rada, niti rada u paru.
3. Svi natjecatelji za svaki pojedini izložak...

Pročitaj više o "Galerija radova sa natjecanja Miniature Painters Croatia – Spring Painting Competition 2020"

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Najnoviji članci

  • Diorama: Smrznut u snijegu – korak po korak
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    This article follows the build of my award winning diorama called Frozen Stiff that I built for the Iron Painter 2017 competition. I wanted to do something different for this project so I decided to use a bust for a diorama. The miniature I used was The Wanderer by FER Miniatures, a 1:10 bust.

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    Making the plinth

    For the base, I needed quite a large plinth and I didn't have any lying about so I decided to make my own. After checking the size of the footprint of the bust, I calculated that I need about 7,5x75 cm base. To make it out of plaster would mean it would be rather on the heavy side so I had to make the plinth hollow. The sides of the mould for the plinth were done from 4mm thick balsa wood. I didn't glue them together and for fixing them in place I used pins. This would enable easier removal of the plinth from the mould. I used HD styrofoam to make the inside of the mould. By using this, I saved about 60% of the final weight of the plinth. Once the plinth was cast and dry, I removed the sides of the mould and used my disc sander to sand the irregular mouldlines and excess material.

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    Preparation work and making the base

    In order to place the bust at the correct angle, I needed to sand the bottom side of the bust. Again, I turned to my disc sander. It took several attempts to get it to right position and once I was satisfied with the result, I used 4mm thick balsa wood to make the back and the sides of the diorama. Inside, I would make the cliffs.

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    IDEAS

    During my Snowpocalypse entry (Frozen Stiff, that I began to call it at this point), I used clay schist to make the cliffs. For that build, I needed only a handful. Fortunately for me, the Medvednica hill next to Zagreb where I live, is full of this metamorphic rock so I decided to take a hike with a mate and go gather a bagful of broken stones. During these hikes, I like to take photos of nature as it is really a good source of inspiration. Once back, I had to wash the stones in soapy water to remove the dirt because the paint wouldn't stick to the stones properly otherwise. I used warm water and several repeats of the process until I got almost clear soapy water. I left it to dry for a couple of days near a heater. When the slate was dry, I stored them in two boxes. One was for really large pieces and the other was for smaller ones and debris. This would speed up the proces of choosing the stones while making the river bank and cliffs.

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    After the trip to the Medvednica mountain, I carefully cut, sawed and assembled all the schist pieces I'd need. Before gluing the stones, I painted the back and the sides of the base black. Using PVA and super glue, I glued them in place. Once the cliff was formed, I used dried up roots to make trees and their roots. I pinned them in place using my pin vice and glued them with super glue. Then I placed the mini and glued it in its place. With the bust in place, I could now add volume to the base that would eventually be snow. To do that, I used DAS airdrying clay.

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    Painting and flocking of the base

    When the clay was dry, I covered the trees with masking tape and spreyed the entire diorama with several layers of paint. First layer was white, followed by off white and finished with drab colour. Each successive layer of sprey was applied with less and less intensity and volume. When the spreying was done, I removed the masking tape and proceeded to paint the rocks first. I used several layers of washes. I used mostly Citadel ones, Nuln Oil, Coelia Greenshade and Athonian Camoshade. When I was satisfied with the basic tones, I used several Scalecolor greys to make the highlights. Afterwards, I applied several shades of pigments (rust and ochre) in several places just to make the cliff a bit more interesting. I fixed the pigment in place using AK Interactive Pigment Fixer. After the painting, I decided to add some sparse vegetation. I used several tufts from a company called Gamer's Grass that specialises in producing great looking tufts. They recently released a new kind of tuft called spikey tufts which I thought perfect for this project. I then painted all the surfaces that were going to be under snow white and once the paint was dry, I applied several layers of NOCH Snowflakes fixed with PVA glue. I also had one other product that I was dying to try out. NOCH Icicles. It comes in a tube which you press and a „worm“ comes out. It dries clear and almost plastic like. It is so hard that it will fix the branches in place reducing chance of them breaking. Really effective and easy to use.

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    Painting the miniature

    With the base mostly done, it was now time to paint the bust. Again, I used mostly Citadel Washes, diluted even more with Lahmian Medium to get glazes. Washes I used were: Agrax Earthshade, Seraphim Sepia, Reikkland Fleshshade and Nuln Oil. The skin was painted using heavily diluted Nihilakh Oxide and Druchii Violet. Highlights were done using a mixture of Scalecolor skin and light blue colours.

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    Finished diorama

    When I was satisfied with the paintjob, I added some snow (NOCH Snowflakes) and ice (NOCH Icicles) on the miniature, especially around the nose, mouth and on the beard.

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    Ovaj članak prati izradu moje nagrađivane diorame Frozen Stiff koja je nastala za natjecanje Iron Painter 2017. Htio sam napraviti nešto drugačije pa sam se odlučio da od biste napravim dioramu. Minijatura koju sam koristio bila je The Wanderer od FER Miniatures, bista u skali 1:10.

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    IZRADA POSTOLJA

    Za bazu mi je trebalo dosta veliko postolje i budući da takvo nisam imao odlučio sam napraviti svoje. Nakon provjere veličine biste, izračunao sam da mi treba baza oko 7,5x75 cm. Gipsana baza te veličine bila bi jako teška pa sam ju morao učiniti šupljom. Bočne strane kalupa za postolje izrađene su od balze debljine 4 mm. Nisam ih lijepio zajedno, za fiksiranje sam koristio pribadače. To mi je omogućilo lakše uklanjanje postolja iz kalupa. Za unutrašnjost kalupa sam koristio stirodur. Koristeći ovo, dobio sam oko 60% razlike u konačnoj težini postolja. Nakon što je podloga bila suha, uklonio sam stranice kalupa i pomoću brusne brusilice izbrusio višak materijala.

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    PRIPREMNI RADOVI I IZRADA BAZE

    Da bih bistu mogao postaviti pod odgovarajućim kutom, morao sam joj izbrusiti donju stranu pomoću kružne brusilice. Bilo je potrebno nekoliko pokušaja da se to postavi u pravi položaj, a nakon što sam bio zadovoljan rezultatom, koristio balzu debljine 4 mm za izradu stražnjih i bočnih strana diorame.

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    IDEJE

    Za izradu litica, koristio sam zeleni škriljevac. Za ovu dioramu trebao sam samo nekoliko šačica. Srećom po mene, Medvednica pored Zagreba u kojem živim, puno je ove metamorfne stijene pa sam odlučio prošetati s prijateljem i otići skupiti vreću slomljenog kamenja. Tijekom ovih planinarenja volim fotografirati prirodu jer je zaista dobar izvor inspiracije. Kad sam se vratio, morao sam oprati kamenje u sapunskoj vodi da uklonim prljavštinu jer se boja inače ne bi dobro zalijepila za kamenje. Koristio sam toplu vodu i nekoliko ponavljanja postupka dok nisam dobio skoro čistu vodu. Ostavio sam da se osuši nekoliko dana u blizini grijača. Kad su se škriljevci osušili, spremio sam ih u dvije kutije. Jedan je za stvarno velike komade, a drugi za manje i krhotine. To će ubrzati postupak izbora kamenja pri izradi obale i litica.

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    Nakon izleta na Medvednicu, pažljivo sam izrezao, ispilio i sastavio sve komade škriljeva. Prije lijepljenja kamenčića obojio sam stražnju i bočnu stranu baze crnom bojom. Pomoću PVA i super ljepila sam ih zalijepio na željeno mjesto. Jednom kad se formirala litica, koristio sam osušeno korijenje za izradu stabala i njihovih korijena. Pričvrstio sam ih na mjesto pomoću pinova i zalijepio ih super ljepilom. Zatim sam stavio minijaturu i zalijepio ju na predviđeno mjesto na bazi. Kad je bista postavljena, mogao sam dodati volumen na bazu koja će na kraju biti snijeg. Za to sam koristio DAS glinamol.

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    BOJANJE I VEGETACIJA

    Kad se glinamol osušio, stabla sam prekrio krep trakom i cijelu dioramu posprejao s nekoliko slojeva boje. Prvi sloj je bio bijel, a zatim tamno bijeli i završen je bež bojom. Svaki sljedeći sloj spreja nanosio se s manje i manje intenziteta i volumena. Kad je obavljeno sprejanje, uklonio sam krep traku i nastavio sam bojati stijene. Koristio sam nekoliko slojeva wash-eva. Koristio sam uglavnom Citadel wash-eve: Nuln Oil, Coelia Greenshade i Athonian Camoshade. Kad sam bio zadovoljan osnovnim tonovima, koristio sam nekoliko nijansi Scalecolor sivih da bih istaknuo povišene/izdignute dijelove. Poslije sam na nekoliko mjesta nanio nekoliko nijansi pigmenata (hrđa i oker) samo da liticu učinim malo zanimljivijom. Učvrstio sam pigment pomoću AK Interactive Pigment Fixer-a. Nakon bojanja, odlučio sam dodati malo oskudne vegetacije. Koristio sam nekoliko busenja tvrtke Gamer's Grass koja je specijalizirana za proizvodnju tuftova i vegetacije. Nedavno su izdali novu vrstu tuftova nazvanog spikey tuft koji sam smatrao savršenim za ovaj projekt. Zatim sam obojio sve površine koje će biti pod snijegom u bijelu boju, a nakon što se osušila, nanio sam nekoliko slojeva NOCH pahuljica snijega fiksiranih PVA ljepilom. Imao sam još jedan proizvod koji sam želio isprobati. NOCH sige. Dolazi u epruveti koju pritisnete i izlazi „crv“. Suši se bistro i gotovo je plastično u tvrdoći kada se posuši. Toliko je čvrst da je fiksirao grane što smanjuje mogućnost njihova pucanja. Stvarno učinkovit i jednostavan za upotrebu.

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    BOJANJE BISTE

    S obzirom da je baza uglavnom bila gotova, sad je došlo vrijeme za bojanje biste. Opet sam koristio uglavnom Citadel Washeve, još više razrijeđene Lahmian Mediumom za razvodnjavanje. Wash-evi koje sam koristio su: Agrax Earthshade, Seraphim Sepia, Reikkland Fleshshade i Nuln Oil. Koža je obojena pomoću jako razrijeđenog Nihilakh Oxide i Druchii Violet. Highlight-i su odrađeni mješavinom Scalecolor bojama nijanse kože i svijetloplave.

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    GOTOVA DIORAMA

    Kad sam bio zadovoljan bojanjem dodao sam još malo snijega (NOCH pahuljice) i leda (NOCH sige) na bistu, posebno oko nosa, usta i na bradi.

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    Marko Paunović, 04.08.2020.
  • Izrada vinjete srednjevjekovne krčme
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    In May 2017, UMS Agram held a Diorama Building Workshop. The topic was how to scratchbuild a vignette with a medieval building on it. The tutor was Marko Paunović and this article follows the steps done during the workshop.

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    BALSA WOOD

    First task was to draw the outlines of the walls on a piece of 4 or 5 mm thick balsa wood (you will notice a little later in the article, that there was a blueprint made for the workshop with all the dimensions), then using a scalpel blade cut out the wall pieces. Make sure the wood grain is in correct position relative to the position of the wall on the vignette. Using superglue, fix the walls together. Next up was carving the wood planks using a simple ice pick. Once done, carve the 1mm thick balsa wood into several 5mm wide planks and glue them in place using superglue. To finish the rough part of building the inn, add the texture of the façade using PVA glue and chinchilla sand (smallest grain sand you can find).

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    PLASTER

    We then proceeded to make the base and stone parts of the building. For the base, we needed a mould that we made from clear plastic foil and some 1mm thick balsa wood leftovers glued with superglue (just to speed the process). When the mould was dry, we mixed some plaster and cast it into the mould. The stone wall was cast directly onto the balsa wood structure of the building and once the plaster was dry, it was carved again using a simple icepick. The building was then glued to the base using PVA glue.

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    DAS CLAY AND SAND

    Using DAS air-drying clay we made stones for the cobble stone path. The blobs of clay were glued in place using PVA glue and sprinkled over using sand in two different sizes.

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    CARD AND PINS

    Final, metal parts were done using ordinary card (or thicker paper) and some metal pins.

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    PAINTING

    To paint the vignette we used PEBEO DECO colours: White, Antique White, Ash, Ocre, Brown, Grey and Black.

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    ROOF AND VEGETATION

    Straw roof was made from 12mm long beige static grass. The vegetation used was: 2mm, 5mm and 6mm tufts; flower tufts and poison ivy on the walls.

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    " ["content_hrv"]=> string(8849) "

    U svibnju 2017., UMS „Agram“ je održao Radionicu izrade diorama i vinjeta sa temom izrade srednjevjekovne građevine. Predavač je bio Marko Paunović, a ovaj njegov članak prati korake koji su odrađeni na Radionici.

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    BALZA

    Prvo je potrebno iscrtati obrise zidova na balzu debljine 4 do 5 mm (primjetit ćete na jednoj od kasnijih slika da je postojao nacrt za sve dijelove diorame). Potom, koristeći skalpel se izrežu zidovi. Pazite da vam smjer godova odgovara smjeru “dasaka” na zifovima. Koristeći superljepilo zaljepite zidove. Zatim urežite šilom daske na zidovima. Potom izrezbarite 1mm debelu balzu u nekoliko letvi otprilike 3-5mm širine. Zaljepite ih na željena mjesta na zidovima. Za kraj, dodajte teksturu fasade pomoću pijeska za činčile (najmanja granulacija) pomoću razvodnjenog PVA ljepila.

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    GIPS

    Sljedeći korak bila je izrada baze i kamenih dijelova zgrade. Za izradu baze, bilo je potrebno izraditi kalup. Koristili smo plastičnu foliju i ostatke 1mm debele balze koje smo zaljepili super ljepilom. Kad je kalup bio gotov, umješali smo gips i izlili ga. Kameni dio zida je uliven direktno u strukturu zgrade napravljene od balze u prethodnom koraku. Kad se zid osušio, izrezbarili smo ga šilom. Potom smo zaljepili zgradu na gipsanu bazu PVA ljepilom.

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    DAS GLINAMOL I PIJESAK

    Pomoću DAS glinamola, napravili smo kamenčiće za kameni puteljak. Kuglice DAS glinamola su zaljepljene PVA ljepilom i posipane pijeskom dvije različite veličine (prvo veći, onda manji).

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    KARTON I PRIBADAČE

    Za kraj dodani su metalni dijelovi na vrata izrađeni od kartona (može i od debljeg papira) te pribadača.

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    BOJANJE

    Za bojanje korištene su sljedeće PEBEO DECO boje: White, Antique White, Ash, Ocre, Brown, Grey and Black.

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    KROV I VEGETACIJA

    Slamnati krov je izrađen od bež statičke trave duljine 12 mm. Vegetacija koja je korištena na diorami je bila sljedeća: 2mm, 5mm and 6mm busenje; busenje sa cvijećem i bršljen na zidovima.

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    Ana Polanšćak, 04.08.2020.
  • Kako odabrati boje da se dobije atmosferičnost
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    In this series of pictures we follow the process of choosing colours to add atmosphere to a miniature done by the member of our FB group Miniature Painters Croatia, Matija Koružnjak.

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    " ["content_hrv"]=> string(4595) "

    U ovom članku, Matija Koružnjak, član naše FB grupe Miniature Painters Croatia, nam objašnjava proces odabira boja kako bi se prikazala atmosfera na minijaturi.

     

    Ovoga puta, u nedostatku boljih fotografija kojima bih mogao objasniti pojedine tehnike, razložit ću svoj proces rezoniranja pri odabiru boja i njihovog komponiranja na primjeru figure Molloga iz Warhammer Underworlds kolekcije.

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    S obzirom da se radi o trolu koji, pretpostavljam, boravi u pećini gdje ne dopire mnogo sunca, odabirom palete želio sam reflektirati takve uvjete. Iz tog razloga koristio sam nezasićene boje koje su trebale dočarati nedostatak pigmenta u koži. Kao dominantne izvore svjetlosti pretpostavio sam toljagu za naličje i imaginarno jezerce za poleđinu figure. Kao osnovnu boju kože odabrao sam ljubičastu s tendencijom prijelaza na crveno/kožu na torzu. Bioluminiscenciju gljiva s toljage zamislio sam kao blijedo-zeleni sjaj koji dominira lijevom stranom figure. Gljive na leđima trebale su ponuditi kontrast koži, ali zbog toga što sam ponovo odabrao nezasićene boje, ne nude dovoljan vizualni interes i nisam zadovoljan kako su ispale. S druge strane, da sam išao sa zasićenijim bojama i gurao kontrast u krajnosti, figura bi izgubila generalni doživljaj. Iz istog razloga kontrast nije naglašen na ostatku figure osim na „vanjskim“ elementima žabe i toljage. Sama figura je, po mom mišljenju prilično komplicirana za ofarbati jer se radi o velikim organskim površinama bez mnogo detalja koje su same po sebi nezanimljive bez snažnog kontrasta ili teksturiranja. Zato sam pokušao na djelovima dodati pojedine teksture koje su trebale barem malo podići površinu. Reljef na leđima mi je također davao probleme jer ponovo nisam želio ići u snažne krajnosti, pogotovo kontrastnim bojama. Pretpostavljena refleksija postignuta je plavim i tirkiznim highlightima s izvorom na tlu iza Molloga i tim sam dijelom dost' zadovoljan.

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    Sve u svemu, figura je sigurno mogla biti mnogo atraktivnija upotrebom jarkijih boja i ekstremnijih kontrasta, teksturiranjem kože i detaljnijim pristupom izraslinama, ali bih izgubio atmosferičnost koju sam želio postići. Koliko sam uspio u svojem naumu, procijenite sami.

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    " ["created"]=> string(19) "2020-07-30 18:56:59" ["modified"]=> string(19) "2020-07-30 18:56:59" } ["Member"]=> array(10) { ["id"]=> string(2) "35" ["group_id"]=> string(1) "1" ["first_name"]=> string(5) "Marko" ["last_name"]=> string(9) "Paunović" ["first_name_mask"]=> string(5) "marko" ["last_name_mask"]=> string(8) "paunovic" ["username"]=> string(5) "marko" ["password"]=> string(40) "775916114da8d49f1647decef7fb412e0964baae" ["born"]=> string(19) "2033-03-07 20:35:00" ["created"]=> string(19) "2009-06-02 20:37:03" } }
    Marko Paunović, 30.07.2020.
  • Andrijin i Markov Top Tip
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        ["content_eng"]=>
        string(2174) "

    What is Marko up to? He is building a mould from balsa wood to cast some wall pieces in plaster. Using superglue and PVA glue he is making the mould.

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    Marko's brilliant plan is to save money on plaster by using a cheap one and strengthening it with PVA glue.

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    Unfortunately, the PVA glue in the plaster mix bonded with the balsa wood so Marko can no longer remove the plaster cast from the balsa wood mould. That is why he asked his pall, Andrija, for help. Together they came up with an idea. Since plaster does not burn, and balsa does, they tried to set the balsa on fire – figuring that once the balsa has burned into ash, all that will remain would be the plaster cast. However it did not work.

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    Then they came up with another brilliant idea of a foolproof plan. Soak the thing in nitro and then burn it. It did cause a bigger flame and more smoke. However, the balsa got only singed. The water from the plaster mixture got absorbed in balsa wood preventing it from burning.

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    Top tip: Don't be a plonker like Andrija and Maro. Buy proper plaster and do not mix PVA glue if you want to cast it!

    " ["content_hrv"]=> string(2261) "

    Kaj to Marko opet smjera? Izrađuje kalup od balze kako bi u njega izlio gipsane dijelove zidova. Kalup izrađuje ljepljenjem dijelova od balze i glinamola pomoću superljepila i PVA ljepila.

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    Markov savršeni plan je da uštedi novce koristeći jeftini zidarski gips i da ga učvrsti PVA ljepilom dodanim u smjesu gipsa i vode.

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    Na nesreću, PVA ljepilo u smjesi gipsa i vode se također povezalo i sa kalupom od balze pa Marko nije više mogao izvaditi odljevak iz kalupa. Na njegovu sreću, u pomoć mu je priskočio Andrija i zajedno su smislili plan. Budući da gips ne gori, a balza gori, smislili su da spale kalup i da će sve što ostane onda biti odljevak. Međutim, to se nije dogodilo.

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    Nakon neuspjelog pokušaja nisu se obeshrabrili te su smislili još bolji plan. S obzirom da balza baš nije gorila, možda joj je trebao neki katalizator. Natopili su kalup sa odljevkom u nitro razrjeđivač te ga malo nalili u staklenu teglu. Bolje je gorilo i puno više dimilo, ali nije uspjelo.

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    Top tip: Ne budite bedaci cijeli život ko Andrija i Marko. Kupite kvalitetni gips i nemojte mješati PVA ljepilo u gips ako ga želite lijevati.

    " ["created"]=> string(19) "2020-07-24 15:00:29" ["modified"]=> string(19) "2020-07-24 15:00:29" } ["Member"]=> array(10) { ["id"]=> string(2) "36" ["group_id"]=> string(1) "2" ["first_name"]=> string(7) "Andrija" ["last_name"]=> string(9) "Jurišić" ["first_name_mask"]=> string(7) "andrija" ["last_name_mask"]=> string(7) "jurisic" ["username"]=> string(7) "andrija" ["password"]=> string(40) "aa074dcee57b1e21aa05c0f5050b2e26581d640a" ["born"]=> string(19) "2009-06-18 21:12:00" ["created"]=> string(19) "2009-06-18 21:13:41" } }
    Andrija Jurišić, 24.07.2020.
  • Markov Top Tip
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        ["content_eng"]=>
        string(1456) "

    How many of you have had your plastic glue clogged?

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    Marko is no different. Unfortunately, Marko is getting old and his sight is getting poorer so sticking his needle in tiny oriffices is beggining to become more and more iritating.

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    Fortunately, there is a method to save Marko's sight and nerves and enable him to get to his preciousss glue quickly.

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    Using a lighter, burn all the dried glue and the needle will become open.

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    " ["content_hrv"]=> string(1480) "

    Da li vam se ikad ljepilo za plastiku skorilo u iglici?

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    Marku se to redovito događa. Na žalost, Marko postaje sve stariji, mrzovoljniji i sve slabije vidi. Stoga mu je sve teže natjerati svoju iglu u usku rupicu.

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    Na sreću, postoji metoda koja će mu spasiti živce i vid pa možda više neće biti mrzovoljan jer će moći doći do dragocjenog ljepila.

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    Potrebno je samo upaljačem spaliti skoreno ljepilo na cjevčici i ona postaje prohodna.

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    " ["created"]=> string(19) "2020-07-24 14:57:56" ["modified"]=> string(19) "2020-07-24 14:57:56" } ["Member"]=> array(10) { ["id"]=> string(2) "35" ["group_id"]=> string(1) "1" ["first_name"]=> string(5) "Marko" ["last_name"]=> string(9) "Paunović" ["first_name_mask"]=> string(5) "marko" ["last_name_mask"]=> string(8) "paunovic" ["username"]=> string(5) "marko" ["password"]=> string(40) "775916114da8d49f1647decef7fb412e0964baae" ["born"]=> string(19) "2033-03-07 20:35:00" ["created"]=> string(19) "2009-06-02 20:37:03" } }
    Marko Paunović, 24.07.2020.

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