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• Diorama ČSSR 1986 – dio 7

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      string(3995) "
  
  	In this series of articles, we will follow my work on a new diorama, another in the 1986 series. This time, we take you behind the Iron Curtain to Czechoslovakia. 
  
  	  
  
  	Next are the final details, which are not necessarily connected to each other, nor were they done in the chronological order in which these articles are published. They simply were not connected to the rest of the story in the articles, so they all deserve their own mish-mash article. First, preparing the substation for painting by spraying the interior black. So that it will be dark inside through the openings in the doors and windows. Once the substation is fixed to the base, this will be impossible to do.
  
  	  
  
  	From the clear plastic that I also used to make the fence, I cut out the shape of the window for the substation.
  
  	  
  
  	In the box with the bits I also found a barrel in good scale so I assembled that too.
  
  	  
  
  	Finally, there was corrosion on the door. First, I thinned the holes in the gate panels using a drill.
  
  	  
  
  	Then I added hinges to the door and gate. I made them out of paper clips.
  
  	  
  
  	I also added a lamp above the entrance to the substation. Given the thin rod it hangs from, I drilled a hole in the substation wall and pinned the lamp that way.
  
  	  
  
  	This concludes the work on this diorama. Now it's time for painting and vegetation.
  
  	  
  "
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  	U ovoj seriji članaka pratit ćemo moj rad na novoj diorami, još jednoj u nizu serijala 1986. Ovoga puta, vodimo vas iza željezne zavjese u Čehoslovačku.
  
  	  
  
  	Na redu su završni detalji, koji nisu nužno povezani jedni sa drugima, niti su odrađeni u vremenskom slijedu kako izlaze ovi članci. Jednostavno, nisu bili povezani sa ostatkom priče po člancima pa su svi skupa zaslužili svoj miš-maš članak. Prvo, priprema trafostanice za bojanje na način da je unutrašnjost posprejana u crno. Tako da kroz otvore na vratima i prozorima unutra bude mrak. Jednom kad se fiksira trafostanica na bazu, to će biti nemoguće napraviti.
  
  	  
  
  	Od prozirne plastike od koje sam napravio i ogradu, izrezao sam oblik prozora za trafostanicu.
  
  	  
  
  	U kutiji sa bitsima našao sam i bačvu u dobrom mjerilu pa sam i nju sastavio.
  
  	  
  
  	Za kraj je ostala korozija na vratima. Prvo sam rupe u pločama na kapiji stanjio koristeći bušilicu.
  
  	  
  
  	Onda sam dodao i šarke na vrata i kapiju. Njih sam napravio od spajalice.
  
  	  
  
  	Dodao sam i lampu iznad ulaza u trafostanicu. S obzirom na tanku šipku o kojoj visi, izbušio sam rupu u zidu trafostanice te na taj način pinirao lampu.
  
  	  
  
  	Time završava rad na ovoj diorami. Sad je na redu bojanje i vegetacija.
  
  	  
  "
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  Marko Paunović, 10.04.2025.
• Diorama ČSSR 1986 – dio 6

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  	In this series of articles, we will follow my work on a new diorama, another in the 1986 series. This time, we take you behind the Iron Curtain to Czechoslovakia. 
  
  	  
  
  	We are slowly coming to the end of this diorama. Apart from a few more small things, the main job that remains is to make the concrete parts. First, we will make the concrete slabs for the pedestrians. To do this, the simplest method is to cast them from plaster. So first, let's make a mold.
  
  	  
  
  	I made a mold of thin strips (2 x 2 mm cross-section) on plastic foil. I made a grid for the panels. This way, the panels will all be the same thickness and shape.
  
  	  
  
  	I then poured some sand into the mold – to simulate the pebbles in the composite concrete slab.
  
  	  
  
  	Then I mixed the plaster with water until I had a pasty mixture and then poured it into the mold.
  
  	  
  
  	Using the rest of the batten, I leveled the boards inside the mold.
  
  	  
  
  	While the plaster was drying in the mold, I added a little water to the remaining mixture and used a paintbrush to paint over the concrete parts of the diorama. The sidewalk and the concrete part of the fence.
  
  	  
  
  	In the meantime, the plaster in the mold had dried and I was able to remove it. The more flexible the foil, the easier the job will be. .
  
  	  
  
  	We checked again to make sure everything fit and when we were sure everything went according to plan, we could glue the parts together.
  
  	  
  
  	We coat the base with PVA glue (do not thin it too much) and place the concrete slabs in their place, making sure to leave some space between the slabs for texture and later vegetation.
  
  	  
  
  	All that's left is to add some details to the diorama base and this process is complete.
  "
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  	U ovoj seriji članaka pratit ćemo moj rad na novoj diorami, još jednoj u nizu serijala 1986. Ovoga puta, vodimo vas iza željezne zavjese u Čehoslovačku.
  
  	  
  
  	Polagano dolazimo prema kraju izrade ove diorame. Osim par još sitnica, glavni posao koji je ostao je izrada betonskih dijelova. Prvo ćemo napraviti betonske ploče za pješake. Da bismo to napravili, najjednostavnija metoda jest lijevanje iz gipsa. Stoga prvo idemo napraviti kalup.
  
  	  
  
  	Na plastičnoj foliji sam izradio kalup od tankih letvica (2 x 2 mm poprečnog presjeka). Napravio sam raster za ploče. Na taj način, ploče će sve biti jednake debljine i jednakih oblika.
  
  	  
  
  	U kalup sam zatim nasipao malo pijeska – kako bi simulirao kamenčiće u kompozitnoj betonskoj ploči.
  
  	  
  
  	Zatim sam zamiješao gips sa vodom dok nisam dobio pastastu smjesu te ju potom ulio u kalup.
  
  	  
  
  	Koristeći ostatak letvice, izravnao sam ploče unutar kalupa.
  
  	  
  
  	Dok se gips sušio u kalupu, dodao sam malo vode u preostalu smjesu i kistom prešao preko betonskih dijelova diorame. Pločnik te betonski dio ograde.
  
  	  
  
  	U međuvremenu se osušio gips u kalupu te sam ga mogao izvaditi. Što je folija fleksibilnija, posao će biti lakši. .
  
  	  
  
  	Opet smo napravili provjeru da li sve paše i kad smo se uvjerili da je sve prošlo po planu, možemo zalijepiti dijelove.
  
  	  
  
  	Premažemo podlogu PVA ljepilom (nemojte razrijeđivati previse) te postavimo betonske ploče na njihovo mjesto pri čemu pazimo da ostane malo mjesta između ploča za teksturu i kasnije vegetaciju.
  
  	  
  
  	Još je ostalo samo dodati nešto detalja na bazu diorame i ovaj proces je gotov.
  "
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  Marko Paunović, 10.04.2025.
• Diorama ČSSR 1986 – dio 5

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  	In this series of articles, we will follow my work on a new diorama, another in the 1986 series. This time, we take you behind the Iron Curtain to Czechoslovakia. 
  
  	  
  
  	After the gate, it's time to tackle the rest of the fence. First, we'll make a post that will hold the closed part of the gate on one side and the open pedestrian door on the other. We'll make the shape of the post (and the rest of the fence) from linden slats with a cross section of 5 x 5 mm.
  
  	  
  
  	To fix this part of the fence properly, I decided to pin the batten to the base. I drilled a hole with a drill and put a staple in it. I glued it with superglue, and the fence post with PVA glue to the base. (NOTE: be careful not to use superglue on Styrofoam or Styrodur, as the glue will eat through it.)
  
  	  
  
  	Once the post was glued, I added both doors also with superglue.
  
  	  
  
  	For the second part of the fence, I decided to make part concrete and part steel. The concrete base, like the post, will be made of slats with a cross section of 5 x 5 mm.
  
  	  
  
  	I drilled holes in the fence posts at the same heights so that we could thread thicker plastic rods (2 mm) through them.
  
  	  
  
  	Then I glued the wooden parts together and threaded the horizontal bars through them. This made the structure very sturdy.
  
  	  
  
  	I then started making the cross bars in the fence from the thinner bar (1.5 mm). I glued everything together with superglue (although we could have done these with plastic glue as well).
  
  	  
  
  	The next step was to glue the fence to the base. I did this using PVA glue.
  
  	  
  
  	Finally, I added the second part of the gate and glued it together with superglue.
  
  	  
  
  	This concludes the construction of the fence and gate. Next time we will tackle the plaster and the construction of the concrete slabs.
  "
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  	U ovoj seriji članaka pratit ćemo moj rad na novoj diorami, još jednoj u nizu serijala 1986. Ovoga puta, vodimo vas iza željezne zavjese u Čehoslovačku.
  
  	  
  
  	Nakon kapije, vrijeme je da se bacimo na ostatak ograde. Prvo ćemo napraviti stup koji će držati zatvoreni dio kapije s jedne i otvorena vrata za pješake s druge strane. Oblik stupa (i ostatka ograde) ćemo izraditi od lipovih letvica 5 x 5 mm poprečnog presjeka.
  
  	  
  
  	Da bismo dobro fiksirali taj dio ograde, odlučio sam pinirati letvicu u bazu. Izbušio sam bušilicom rupu i u nju stavio spajalicu. Zaljepio sam ju superljepilom, a stup ograde PVA ljepilom na bazu. (NAPOMENA: pazite da superljepilom ne idete po stiroporu ili stiroduru jer će ga to ljepilo nagristi.)
  
  	  
  
  	Kad se stup zaljepio, dodao sam oba vrata također superljepilom.
  
  	  
  
  	Za drugi dio ograde sam odlučio da bude dio betonski, a dio čelični. Betonsku bazu ćemo kao i sa stupom napraviti od letvica 5 x 5 mm poprečnog presjeka. .
  
  	  
  
  	Stupove na ogradi sam bušilicom probušio na istim visinama kako bismo kroz njih mogli provući deblje plastične šipke (2 mm).
  
  	  
  
  	Potom sam zalijepio drvene dijelove i kroz njih provukao horizontalne šipke. To je učinilo konstrukciju jako čvrstom.
  
  	  
  
  	Od tanje šipke (1,5 mm) sam onda počeo raditi poprečne šipke u ogradi. Lijepio sam sve superljepilom (iako bismo ove mogli i sa ljepilom za plastiku).
  
  	  
  
  	Sljedeći korak bio je ljepljenje ograde za bazu. To sam učinio pomoću PVA ljepila.
  
  	  
  
  	Za kraj, dodao sam i drugi dio kapije i zalijepio ga supreljepilom.
  
  	  
  
  	Time završava izrada ograde i kapije. Sljedeći put bacamo se na gips i izradu betonskih ploča.
  
  	 
  "
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  Marko Paunović, 10.04.2025.
• Diorama ČSSR 1986 – dio 4

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  	In this series of articles, we will follow my work on a new diorama, another in the 1986 series. This time, we take you behind the Iron Curtain to Czechoslovakia. 
  
  	  
  
  	As we announced last time, starting this week we will start making the details. So far we have been using larger or smaller elements, but now we are starting with scratchbuilding the parts. First up is the gate. Because it will define how the rest of the fence will look. I decided to make it a standard “closed” type gate – made of pipes with a plate welded to it.
  
  	  
  
  	Since I imagined the gate in two parts and that the whole thing had to be quite vertical/parallel and very geometrically correct, I concluded that making a frame out of round profiles would be a very big challenge. That's why I decided to first make two boards (of the same dimensions) around which I would then glue round profiles, thus ensuring the correct shape of both parts of the gate.
  
  	  
  
  	Ideally, I would use plasticard. Unfortunately, I didn't have any on hand, so I used clear plastic from an Ikea picture frame. First, I drew two identical rectangles and cut them out.
  
  	  
  
  	I now started cutting round profiles around the rectangle. I used 2 mm diameter transparent plastic rods and 1.5 mm for the thinner shapes.
  
  	  
  
  	I glued everything together with superglue using an activator so that the connection was immediate..
  
  	  
  
  	Finally, I made two latches out of thinner rods. One for the closed part of the gate that goes into the floor. The other on the open door that closes it for the static half of the gate.
  
  	  
  
  	Next time we finish the rest of the fence.
  
  	  
  "
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  	U ovoj seriji članaka pratit ćemo moj rad na novoj diorami, još jednoj u nizu serijala 1986. Ovoga puta, vodimo vas iza željezne zavjese u Čehoslovačku.
  
  	  
  
  	Kao što smo zadnji put najavili, od ovog tjedna počinjemo sa izradom detalja. Do sada smo manje više koristili veće ili manje elemente, ali sada krećemo sa scratchbuildingom dijelova. Prvo na redu jest kapija. Jer će ona definirati kako će ostatak ograde izgledati. Odlučio sam da bude standardna kapija “zatvorenog” tipa – napravljena od cijevi na koje je zavarena ploča.
  
  	  
  
  	S obzirom da sam kapiju zamislio u dva dijela i da čitava ta stvar mora biti poprilično okomita/paralelna i jako geometrijski pravilna zaključio sam da izrada okvira od okruglih profila će tu biti vrlo velik izazov. Zato sam se odlučio da napravim prvo dvije ploče (istih dimenzija) oko kojih ću onda lijepiti okrugle profile te na taj način osigurati pravilni oblik oba dijela kapije.
  
  	  
  
  	U idealnom slučaju, koristio bih plasticard. Na žalost, nisam ga imao pri ruci pa sam iskoristio prozirnu plastiku od Ikeinog okvira za slike. Prvo sam ucrtao dva identična pravokutnika te ih tako i izrezao.
  
  	  
  
  	Oko pravokutnika sam sada krenuo krojiti okrugle profile. Koristio sam plastične prozirne šipke promjera 2 mm i 1,5 mm za tanje oblike.
  
  	  
  
  	Sve sam lijepio sa superljepilom uz pomoć activatora da se spoj odmah ostvari.
  
  	  
  
  	Za kraj sam od tanjih šipkica napravio dva zasuna. Jedan za zatvoreni dio kapije koji ide u pod. Drugi na otvorenim vratima koji ih zatvara za statičnu polovicu kapije.
  
  	  
  
  	Sljedeći put ide ostatak ograde.
  
  	  
  "
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  Marko Paunović, 10.04.2025.
• Diorama ČSSR 1986 – dio 3

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  	In this series of articles, we will follow my work on a new diorama, another in the 1986 series. This time, we take you behind the Iron Curtain to Czechoslovakia. 
  
  	  
  
  	So far we have made the substation and the road, now it is time to make the cobblestones/macadam inside the industrial complex. It is not clearly visible in the photos, but I angled that part when cutting. Now we need to add some “volume” with the details.
  
  	  
  
  	We will add volume using DAS glass mol. When asked which one to use, my advice is no matter what. White or terracotta - just the same. Namely, both one and the other version crack quite hard when drying. This time, I'm using the third type of DAS clay, which I bought in Italy and haven't seen it here to buy yet. He says it is for stone surfaces. So let's try it.
  
  	  
  
  	Before applying the clay, my advice is to coat the entire surface with PVA glue so that the clay sticks better. Also, while spreading the clay, feel free to wet it a little with your fingers so that it stretches more easily without cracking.
  
  	  
  
  	While the clay is still wet, it's time to set the details in the form of ruts. For this I will use the remains of the stands (from the previous diorama, SFRJ 1986). Just ride the wheels around the base. In some places, the clay can crack (like a strudel crust if you've ever watched it being made or, God forbid, made it yourself). In this case, touch up using a damp brush.
  
  	  
  
  	Finally, as always, check how the elements work together after this stage.
  
  	  
  
  	Next time we'll dive into the details. We start with the gate.
  "
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  	U ovoj seriji članaka pratit ćemo moj rad na novoj diorami, još jednoj u nizu serijala 1986. Ovoga puta, vodimo vas iza željezne zavjese u Čehoslovačku.
  
  	  
  
  	Do sada smo napravili trafostanicu i kolnik, sada je vrijeme da napravimo kaldrmu/makadam unutar industrijskog kompleksa. Na fotkama se dobro ne vidi, ali taj dio sam nakosio prilikom rezanja. Sada treba dodati malo “volumena” sa detaljima.
  
  	  
  
  	Volumen ćemo dodati koristeći DAS glinamol. Kada me pitaju koji da koristim, moj savjet je svejedno. Bijeli ili terracotta – sasvim isto. Naime, i jedna i druga verzija dosta teško pucaju prilikom sušenja. Ovaj put, koristim treću vrstu DAS glinamola, koju sam kupio u Italiji i nisam je za sada vidio ovdje za kupiti. Kaže da je za kamene površine. Pa hajde da isprobamo.
  
  	  
  
  	Prije postavljanja glinamola, moj savjet je da cijelu tu površinu premažete PVA ljepilom da se glinamol bolje primi. Također, tijekom razmazivanja glinamola, slobodno ga malo namočite preko prstiju da se lakše rasteže bez da puca.
  
  	  
  
  	Dok je glinamol još vlažan, vrijeme je da se postave detalji u vidu kolotraga. Za to ću iskoristiti ostatke stojadina (sa prethodne diorame, SFRJ 1986.). Samo provozajte kotače po bazi. Na mjestima može doći do pucanja glinamola (kao kore od štrudle ako ste ikad gledali kako se radi ili nedajbože sami radili). U tom slučaju, popravite koristeći vlažan kist.
  
  	  
  
  	Za kraj, kao i uvijek, provjerite kako funkcioniraju elementi međusobno nakon ovog stadija.
  
  	  
  
  	Sljedeći puta se bacamo na izradu detalja. Počinjemo s kapijom.
  "
      ["created"]=>
      string(19) "2025-04-10 13:47:52"
      ["modified"]=>
      string(19) "2025-04-10 13:47:52"
    }
    ["Member"]=>
    array(10) {
      ["id"]=>
      string(2) "35"
      ["group_id"]=>
      string(1) "1"
      ["first_name"]=>
      string(5) "Marko"
      ["last_name"]=>
      string(9) "Paunović"
      ["first_name_mask"]=>
      string(5) "marko"
      ["last_name_mask"]=>
      string(8) "paunovic"
      ["username"]=>
      string(5) "marko"
      ["password"]=>
      string(40) "3bd37b326d19d1880d3b93a4b32e8fb3a90fa122"
      ["born"]=>
      string(19) "2033-03-07 20:35:00"
      ["created"]=>
      string(19) "2009-06-02 20:37:03"
    }
  }
          

  Marko Paunović, 10.04.2025.

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