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• Zvonimir Grbašić: The Templars at War

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  	Some of you who follow our social networks may have noticed our Ana reading an interesting book at our last Hobby Corner on Wednesdays. As part of the Library and Reading Room, we have acquired a new title. This time it may be a bit of a strange combination. A book by an author with a Zagreb residence, but in English. It is The Templars at War by Zvonimir Grbašić.
  
  	
  
  	Zvonimir Grbašić is the author of hundreds of illustrations and paintings published in books, magazines, graphic maps and calendars, in Croatia and worldwide. Military history is the main theme, and the technique is acrylic paint, tempera and pencil. This book follows the history of the Templars from their beginnings to the end of the order.
  
  	
  
  	It is a true historical book that explains to the reader the history of this, perhaps the most famous, knightly order in an enjoyable way.
  
  	
  
  	It is a true historical book that explains to the reader the history of this, perhaps the most famous, knightly order in an enjoyable way.
  
  	
  
  	In addition to the interesting text, what primarily attracted us to this edition were the author's illustrations, which faithfully follow the text and captivate the medieval world. In addition to the illustrations, there are also hand-drawn maps that show the course of battles.
  
  	
  
  	
  
  	
  
  	
  
  	
  
  	Finally, the author has announced a Croatian, expanded edition, which we are also looking forward to! And while we wait, if you are interested, you can read the book during our hours on Wednesdays from 6:00 PM to 8:00 PM, and if you are our member, you can also borrow it!
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  	Neki od vas, koji prate naše društvene mreže, su možda zapazili našu Anu kako čita jednu zanimljivu knjigu na našem zadnjem Hobby kutku srijedom. U sklopu Knjižnice i čitaonice nabavili smo novi naslov. Ovoga puta to je možda malo čudna kombinacija. Knjiga, autora sa zagrebačkom rezidencijom, ali na engleskom jeziku. Riječ je o The Templars at War Zvonimira Grbašića.
  
  	
  
  	Zvonimir Grbašić autor je stotina ilustracija i slika objavljenih u knjigama, časopisima, grafičkim mapama i kalendarima, u Hrvatskoj i svijetu. Vojna povijest je osnovna tematika, a tehnika akrilne boje, tempera i olovka. Ova knjiga prati povijest Templara od svojih začetaka pa do kraja reda.
  
  	
  
  	Prava je povijesna knjiga koja na pitki način objašnjava čitatelju povijest ovog, možda najpoznatijeg, viteškog reda.
  
  	
  
  	Pored zanimljivog teksta, ono što nas je primarno privuklo ovom izdanju su ilustracije autora koje vjerno prate tekst i očaravaju srednjevjekovni svijet. Pored ilustracija, tu su i ručno crtane mape koje prikazuju tijek borbi.
  
  	
  
  	
  
  	
  
  	
  
  	
  
  	
  
  	Za kraj, autor je najavio i hrvatsko, prošireno, izdanje čemu se također veselimo! A dok čekamo, ukoliko ste zainteresirani, knjigu možete pročitati u našim terminima srijedama od 18:00 do 20:00, a ukoliko ste naš član, možete ju i posuditi!
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  Marko Paunović, 31.01.2025.
• Potraga za mojim novim najdražim washevima

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  	Note from the editor: This is an article published on Ana’s blog that she kindly agreed to share on our club web pages. If you like the article, go for more on her site Gardens of Hecate! 
  
  	  
  
  	Sometime in November I had reached the end of my stock of old formula Agrax Earthshade and Nuln Oil, and cracked open the new ones (I say new, but they’re a few years old by now). I was disappointed with the currently standing product… I’ve been steadily using Citadel washes since they were first introduced. Originally it was Badab Black and Devlan Mud, and they were fantastic (yes, there were inks before that - but I never used those). At some point they got replaced by Nuln Oil and Agrax Earthshade, respectively. Frankly I don’t recall how big of a change that was; it was a fairly long time ago. However, I know that I’ve gradually phased out most Citadel paints from my arsenal in favour of other brands (predominantly Scale 75, but there are several others represented) - while still continuing to use and recommend Citadel’s black and brown wash. However, now they’ve changed too far for the worse that I decided it’s time to look elsewhere.
  
  	I asked my Instagram audience for viable alternatives on the market and I got 60+ responses with suggestions. Based on that I purchased a variety of options for brown and black washes and inks to test. Additionally, a significant number of commenters expressed they were in the same predicament, so I promised to share my findings in a blog post. This is it.
  
  	Since making the purchases I’ve made swatches, tests in controlled conditions, and tried them out in real situations on whatever painting projects I was working on at the time.
  
  	Disclaimer: I am not sponsored by or affiliated with the manufacturers of any of these products. They were purchased with funds contributed by my Patreon supporters (thank you!). I’m honestly looking for a better alternative for myself and taking you along for the ride.
  
  	I’d also like to thank @noe.hammer and @hinter_light for sending me bottles of unused old Agrax Earthshade they had lying around.
  
  	
  
  	What am I even looking for in a wash?
  
  	I use brown and black washes frequently. It’s normally for shading things such as leather, armour, fabrics, wood, human skin, and more.
  
  	My ideal wash would be well pigmented acrylic, usable out of the pot but dilutable with water if I want a less stark shade, reliably matte when dry, and not brazenly overpriced.
  
  	INTENSITY and HUE
  
  	Of the above, the current Citadel washes only fulfill the first thing on my list. They do still provide a good shade to those recesses and details on the sculpt. I also like the colour of the brown. Not too intense to be used as is, but often I want to dilute them slightly. I expected some brands of washes would be less intense, and if I wanted something stronger there are inks.
  
  	Inks definitely need to be combined with a medium for two reasons: they’re glossy and they’re too highly pigmented to be used straight out of the pot. I have the following three inks: AK Wood Brown, Vallejo Sepia, and Scale75 Inktense Wood. They all behaved as predicted, working nicely with Lahmian Medium. A little ink goes a long way and the medium successfully mattes out the ink’s original gloss. Each has its own hue, my favourite of the three being Vallejo’s.
  
  	Army Painter Warpaints Soft Tone, Strong Tone, and Dark Tone are overall the most similar to Citadel’s washes, including the intensity. ProAcryl and Two Thin Coats are the least intense, but ultimately they’re all acceptable.
  
  	Each brown wash has a slightly different hue, as you can see on the tombstone swatches basecoated white. They all work fine and the difference was less apparent when I applied on a brown basecoat.
  
  	
  
  	
  
  	
  
  	
  
  	
  
  	
  
  	ACRYLIC
  
  	Some of my Instagram friends recommended oils to me. I do occasionally use oil and enamel washes when I paint scenery. They’re effective and cool to play with. However, they don’t get along with other paints I use - meaning varnishing in between and thinking several steps ahead. They also have annoyingly long drying times. This is ok for terrain, but simply doesn’t work for the way I paint miniatures and I don’t want to drastically change my process right now. I like how it is. Same reason my airbrush sits in the drawer seldom used. Their time may come, it’s just not today.
  
  	That’s why there are no oils or enamels in this story.
  
  	BEHAVIOUR WITH WATER
  
  	Mixing a wash with water can leave a cloudy/chalky residue in the recesses (see image below for examples). Of the washes I've tried, most experienced the chalky residue when mixed with water at some point. Sometimes it happens, sometimes it doesn’t. I hear hard water makes this worse. In any case, it’s safer to use an acrylic medium rather than water. With older Citadel Washes I usually used water and it would occasionally result in a nasty surprise. With the new formula the clouding happened most times I did it.
  
  	I can absolutely live with using medium instead of water to make sure the results are consistent. This is the part of my ideal wash I’m ready to forfeit easiest. Any matte medium will be more expensive than water, but there are way more affordable options than Citadel’s Lahmian Medium I currently use. It’s something to look into next.
  
  	
  
  	MATTE FINISH
  
  	New Agrax and Nuln Oil straight out of the pot are glossy and this annoys me to no end. Mixing in Lahmian Medium, which normally does have a matting effect, is a must even if I don’t want to dilute my wash. But often that doesn’t help either. There were times new Agrax Earthshade refused to stop being glossy in the recesses even when I painted matte varnish over it.
  
  	Mind you, the shine in the recesses may also happen to other brands if one applies too much undiluted wash, or if not shaken properly before use.
  
  	A few people recommended a product called Instar Matte+. It’s a concentrated additive that’s meant to be mixed into paints to turn them matte. I got advice to put several drops directly into my bottle of my Agrax or Nuln. I did just that, and it actually killed the shine. That’s great news, since it means I can save those several bottles of new Citadel washes I stockpiled before I realised they were no good.
  
  	When playing around with Matte+ I tried mixing it with inks to see what happens. It does make them matte, but they get a similar residue problem washes get with water. In this case, though, the result looks like a decent rust effect. I’m not sure if it’s worth exploring further, but below is what it looks like.
  
  	
  
  	PRICE
  
  	Price is not something I thought about too much before I started crunching these numbers. It was interesting and eye-opening.
  
  	Shipping is not included in the prices. Local tax of 25% is included. Keep in mind the price of each product can vary slightly from vendor to vendor. I had to order from multiple webshops depending on availability and stock. They come in different size vials so in order to compare properly I calculated their price per mL (given in brackets).
  
  	The most affordable was AK Deep Shade Grime at 4,89€ for a 30mL bottle (0,16€/mL). It’s closely followed by Vallejo washes at 3,10 € for 18 mL (0,17€/mL) and then The Army Painter tone trio at 3,49€ for 18mL (0,19€/mL).
  
  	Next tier are Pro Acryl 22mL for 5,99€ (0,27€/mL) and Duncan’s TTC washes at 4,41€ for 15mL (0.29€/mL).
  
  	And finally we have Citadel’s 18mL for 6.63€ (0,37€/mL), which makes it double the price of the stuff in the first group. Ugh.
  
  	I won’t compare the inks along with the washes because they must to be used with a hefty quantity of medium. A pot of ink will last you drastically longer than a pot of wash, but you need to purchase medium alongside it, complicating the calculation. I didn’t go into it this time. Here are the prices of the inks, though: AK Wood Brown INK was 4,68 € for 30mL (0,16€/mL), Vallejo Sepia Ink 18 ml was 3,10€ (0,17/mL), and S75 Inktense Wood 17mL for 4,04€ (0,24€/mL).
  
  	Instar Matte + additive was 2,03€ for their container of 10mL (0,20/mL). It gets cheaper if you buy a larger bottle, but you’re meant to be using it in very small doses anyway.
  
  	CONTAINER
  
  	This is not a deciding factor for me, but there are differences I can touch on briefly.
  
  	To get Citadel out of the way first: pot with a lid. Knocked it over and spilled so many times over the years. One may call that a skill issue. I don’t know. Dipping a brush in the pot rather than squirting it on the palette somehow makes more sense for washes to me, so that’s a point for it. When it comes to Citadel’s other paints I strongly dislike the pots, mostly because their design really helps the paint dry up faster. I’m not sure myself how I feel about it on the washes, though.
  
  	AK Pure Grime comes in a bottle with a screw-on cap. I haven’t used it enough to witness how easily it’s knocked over, but since it doesn’t have a lid sticking up my guess is it’s safer from spillage than Citadel.
  
  	Army Painter comes in a standard dropper bottle, same as Scale 75 uses. Vallejo used to have something just like it, but these washes and ink come in dropper bottles made of way thinner material. I accidentally squeezed them too hard lots of times, so not a fan. The reason behind it is ecological perhaps?
  
  	Two Thin Coats - bottle is fine but something is funky with the cap. The wash always heavily leaks inside it. Perhaps it must be screwed on 100% tight to stop doing that? Not happy about the mess. Again, you may say it’s a skill issue, but I haven’t had that problem with any other brand’s dropper bottle.
  
  	PorAcryl’s bottle has a special cap I hadn’t encountered before. It slightly twists off to allow drops to get out of the bottle. I’m pretty sure this is well resistant to clogging (which is an annoyance with dropper bottles) and doesn’t allow any air to get in. But it’s sort of messy to close it since there is always some paint stuck near the tip that has to be wiped off.
  
  	Finally, the AK Ink comes in a glass bottle with a dropper cap, and the Matte+ comes in a tiny dropper bottle with a safety cap. Works fine.
  
  	
  
  	CONCLUSIONS
  
  	After this I’m definitely saying goodbye to Citadel’s washes. I’ll rescue the pots I already have with Instar Matte+ and never buy another again. The price is severly inflated when compared to any other brand, while the quality is poorer in most aspects and it requires me to spend even more money on third party products to make it work.
  
  	TwoThinCoats washes were a very common suggestion. It’s among the pricier options, but doesn’t stand out enought to compensate for that. It’s fine, but won’t be my new brand of choice.
  
  	Army Painter washes are a really popular option. They’re on the more affordable end and my LGS stocks them, making them extra accessible. They are also among the least matte ones, but matte medium consistently fixes that. Fine, but not a favourite.
  
  	Vallejo washes are high on my tier list. They’re nicely matte out of the pot and I rather like the hue of their Umber wash. The price is also among the best.
  
  	ProAcryl is also a good one. Nice flow, matte finish. The hue and price place it beneath Vallejo for me, though.
  
  	AK Deep Shades Pure Grime is quite a bit more viscous than the others. It stays where you put it, which usually means it will harder stain the areas you don’t want shaded. It was the least costly. The hue is nice, but the intensity feels lighter. Overall for me it’s mid.
  
  	The inks - AK, Vallejo, and S75 all three act the same in my limited experience. When it comes to hue I’m partial to Vallejo’s Umber. I’m actually interested in using them further in combination with matte medium. They are better value for money than an out of the pot wash.
  
  	Along similar lines, I tried to mix my own wash by combining Scalecolor Artist Burnt Umber with Lahmian Medium. It was prety good, and once again much cheaper than any out-of-the-pot wash.
  
  	If I had to choose which wash was my favourite I’d say Vallejo. But I think my future may be finding a decent but not overpriced matte medium and mixing my own washes. I already have to use a medium if I want to dilute a wash, so I migh as well get my pigment from an ink or a quality acrylic paint in the first place.
  
  	I’ll continue to use a selection of these washes further until they run out. If I change my mind about something I may revisit this topic in the future.
  
  	Everything in this article is my own opinion based on my experience trying the products.
  
  	 
  
  	
  
  		
  	
  
  		Što uopće tražim u washevima?
  	
  
  		Često koristim smeđu i crnu boju. Obično je za sjenčanje stvari kao što su koža, oklopi, tkanine, drvo, ljudska koža i drugo.
  	
  
  		Moj idealan tuš bio bi dobro pigmentirani akril, koji bi se mogao koristiti i iz bočice, ali bi se mogao razrijediti vodom ako želim manje jaku nijansu, pouzdano mat kada se osuši, a ne drsko precijenjen.
  	
  
  		INTENZITET i HUE
  	
  
  		Od navedenog, trenutni washevi od Citadel ispunjavaju samo prvu uvjet na mom popisu. Još uvijek daju dobru sjenu u udubljenjima i detaljima na skulpturi. Sviđa mi se i smeđa boja. Nisu previše intenzivni da bi se koristili takvi kakvi jesu, ali često ih želim malo razrijediti. Očekivala sam da će neke marke washeva biti manje intenzivna, a ako sam htjela nešto jače tu su tinte.
  	
  
  		
  	
  
  		Tinte svakako treba kombinirati s medijem iz dva razloga: sjajne su i previše su pigmentirane da bi se mogle koristiti izravno iz posude. Imam sljedeće tri tinte: AK Wood Brown, Vallejo Sepia i Scale75 Inktense Wood. Svi su se ponašali prema predviđanjima, dobro surađujući s Lahmian Mediumom. Malo tinte ide daleko i medij uspješno matira izvorni sjaj tinte. Svaka ima svoju nijansu, a meni je od te tri najdraža Vallejova.
  	
  
  		
  	
  
  		Army Painter Warpaints Soft Tone, Strong Tone i Dark Tone općenito su najsličniji Citadel washevima, uključujući intenzitet. ProAcryl i Two Thin Coats su najmanje intenzivni, ali u konačnici svi su prihvatljivi.
  	
  
  		Svaka smeđa boja ima nešto drugačiju nijansu, kao što možete vidjeti na uzorcima nadgrobnih spomenika s osnovnim bijelim premazom. Svi rade dobro i razlika je bila manje vidljiva kada sam nanijela smeđi bazni lak.
  	
  
  		
  
  
  	
  
  		
  	
  
  		Što uopće tražim u washevima?
  	
  
  		Često koristim smeđu i crnu boju. Obično je za sjenčanje stvari kao što su koža, oklopi, tkanine, drvo, ljudska koža i drugo.
  	
  
  		Moj idealan tuš bio bi dobro pigmentirani akril, koji bi se mogao koristiti i iz bočice, ali bi se mogao razrijediti vodom ako želim manje jaku nijansu, pouzdano mat kada se osuši, a ne drsko precijenjen.
  	
  
  		INTENZITET i HUE
  	
  
  		Od navedenog, trenutni washevi od Citadel ispunjavaju samo prvu uvjet na mom popisu. Još uvijek daju dobru sjenu u udubljenjima i detaljima na skulpturi. Sviđa mi se i smeđa boja. Nisu previše intenzivni da bi se koristili takvi kakvi jesu, ali često ih želim malo razrijediti. Očekivala sam da će neke marke washeva biti manje intenzivna, a ako sam htjela nešto jače tu su tinte.
  	
  
  		
  	
  
  		Tinte svakako treba kombinirati s medijem iz dva razloga: sjajne su i previše su pigmentirane da bi se mogle koristiti izravno iz posude. Imam sljedeće tri tinte: AK Wood Brown, Vallejo Sepia i Scale75 Inktense Wood. Svi su se ponašali prema predviđanjima, dobro surađujući s Lahmian Mediumom. Malo tinte ide daleko i medij uspješno matira izvorni sjaj tinte. Svaka ima svoju nijansu, a meni je od te tri najdraža Vallejova.
  	
  
  		
  	
  
  		Army Painter Warpaints Soft Tone, Strong Tone i Dark Tone općenito su najsličniji Citadel washevima, uključujući intenzitet. ProAcryl i Two Thin Coats su najmanje intenzivni, ali u konačnici svi su prihvatljivi.
  	
  
  		Svaka smeđa boja ima nešto drugačiju nijansu, kao što možete vidjeti na uzorcima nadgrobnih spomenika s osnovnim bijelim premazom. Svi rade dobro i razlika je bila manje vidljiva kada sam nanijela smeđi bazni lak.
  	
  
  		
  
  "
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  	Napomena urednika: Ovo je članak objavljen na Aninom blogu koji je ljubazno pristala podijeliti na web stranicama naše udruge. Ako vam se sviđa članak, potražite više na njezinoj stranici Gardens of Hecate! 
  
  	  
  
  	Negdje u studenom došla sam do kraja svojih zaliha stare formule Agrax Earthshade i Nuln Oil i otvorila sam nove (kažem nove, ali sada su stare nekoliko godina). Razočarana sam tim proizvodima… Stalno koristim Citadel washeve otkako su prvi put predstavljene. Izvorno su to bile Badab Black i Devlan Mud, i bile su fantastične (da, postojale su tinte i prije toga - ali ih nikad nisam koristila). U nekom trenutku su ih zamijenili Nuln Oil i Agrax Earthshade. Iskreno govoreći, ne sjećam se kolika je to bila promjena; bilo je to prilično davno. Međutim, znam da sam postupno izbacila većinu Citadel boja iz svog arsenala u korist drugih marki (pretežno Scale 75, ali postoji nekoliko drugih koje koristim) - dok sam i dalje nastavila koristiti Citadelove crnu i smeđu boju. Međutim, sada su se previše promijenili na gore da sam odlučila da je vrijeme da ih potražim negdje drugdje.
  
  	Pitala sam publiku na Instagramu za održive alternative na tržištu i dobila sam više od 60 odgovora s prijedlozima. Na temelju toga kupila sam razne opcije za smeđe i crne boje i tinte za testiranje. Osim toga, značajan broj komentatora rekao je da se nalazi u istoj nevolji, pa sam obećala podijeliti svoja otkrića u postu na blogu. To je to.
  
  	Od kupnje napravila sam uzorke, testirala u kontroliranim uvjetima i isprobala ih u stvarnim situacijama na svim farbačkim projektima na kojima sam u to vrijeme radila.
  
  	Odricanje od odgovornosti: Nisam sponzorirana niti povezana s proizvođačima bilo kojeg od ovih proizvoda. Kupljene su sredstvima koje su priložili moji podržavatelji na Patreonu (hvala!). Iskreno tražim bolju alternativu za sebe i vodim vas na taj put sa sobom.
  
  	Također bih željela zahvaliti @noe.hammer i @hinter_light što su mi poslali boce neiskorištenog starog Agrax Earthshadea koje su ležale uokolo.
  
  	  
  
  	Što uopće tražim u washevima?
  
  	Često koristim smeđu i crnu boju. Obično je za sjenčanje stvari kao što su koža, oklopi, tkanine, drvo, ljudska koža i drugo.
  
  	Moj idealan tuš bio bi dobro pigmentirani akril, koji bi se mogao koristiti i iz bočice, ali bi se mogao razrijediti vodom ako želim manje jaku nijansu, pouzdano mat kada se osuši, a ne drsko precijenjen.
  
  	INTENZITET i HUE
  
  	Od navedenog, trenutni washevi od Citadel ispunjavaju samo prvu uvjet na mom popisu. Još uvijek daju dobru sjenu u udubljenjima i detaljima na skulpturi. Sviđa mi se i smeđa boja. Nisu previše intenzivni da bi se koristili takvi kakvi jesu, ali često ih želim malo razrijediti. Očekivala sam da će neke marke washeva biti manje intenzivna, a ako sam htjela nešto jače tu su tinte.
  
  	Tinte svakako treba kombinirati s medijem iz dva razloga: sjajne su i previše su pigmentirane da bi se mogle koristiti izravno iz posude. Imam sljedeće tri tinte: AK Wood Brown, Vallejo Sepia i Scale75 Inktense Wood. Svi su se ponašali prema predviđanjima, dobro surađujući s Lahmian Mediumom. Malo tinte ide daleko i medij uspješno matira izvorni sjaj tinte. Svaka ima svoju nijansu, a meni je od te tri najdraža Vallejova.
  
  	Army Painter Warpaints Soft Tone, Strong Tone i Dark Tone općenito su najsličniji Citadel washevima, uključujući intenzitet. ProAcryl i Two Thin Coats su najmanje intenzivni, ali u konačnici svi su prihvatljivi.
  
  	Svaka smeđa boja ima nešto drugačiju nijansu, kao što možete vidjeti na uzorcima nadgrobnih spomenika s osnovnim bijelim premazom. Svi rade dobro i razlika je bila manje vidljiva kada sam nanijela smeđi bazni lak.
  
  	
  
  	
  
  	
  
  	
  
  	
  
  	
  
  	AKRIL
  
  	Neki moji Instagram prijatelji preporučili su mi ulja. Povremeno koristim ulje i emajl kad slikam krajolike. Učinkoviti su i zgodni za igru. Međutim, ne slažu se s drugim bojama koje koristim - što znači lakiranje između i razmišljanje nekoliko koraka unaprijed. Također imaju iritantno dugo vrijeme sušenja. Ovo je u redu za teren, ali jednostavno ne funkcionira za način na koji farbam minijature i ne želim sada drastično promijeniti svoj proces. Sviđa mi se kako je. Iz istog razloga moj airbrush stoji u ladici i rijetko se koristi. Njihovo vrijeme može doći, samo nije danas.
  
  	Zato u ovoj priči nema ulja ni emajla.
  
  	PONAŠANJE S VODOM
  
  	Miješanje washeva s vodom može ostaviti zamućen/kredast talog u udubljenjima. Od washeva koje sam isprobala, kod većine su se u nekom trenutku pojavili kredasti ostaci kad se pomiješaju s vodom. Ponekad se dogodi, ponekad ne. Čujem da je tvrda voda još gora. U svakom slučaju, sigurnije je koristiti akrilni medij nego vodu. Za starije Citadel washeve obično sam koristila vodu i to bi povremeno rezultiralo gadnim iznenađenjem. S novom formulom zamućenje se događalo većinu puta kada sam to radila.
  
  	Apsolutno mogu živjeti s upotrebom medija umjesto vode kako bih bio sigurna da su rezultati dosljedni. Ovo je dio mog idealnog procesa nanošenja washeva kojeg se najlakše odričem. Svaki mat medij bit će skuplji od vode, ali postoje puno pristupačnije opcije od Citadelovog Lahmian Mediuma koji trenutno koristim. To je nešto što treba razmotriti sljedeće.
  
  	
  
  	MAT FINIŠ
  
  	Novi Agrax i Nuln Oil izravno iz posude su sjajni i to me beskrajno nervira. Miješanje Lahmian Mediuma, koji inače ima učinak matiranja, obavezno je čak i ako ne želim razrijediti svoje washeve. Ali često ni to ne pomaže. Bilo je trenutaka kada je novi Agrax Earthshade odbijao prestati biti sjajan u udubljenjima čak i kad sam ga premazala mat lakom.
  
  	Imajte na umu da se sjaj u udubljenjima može dogoditi i drugim markama ako se nanese previše nerazrijeđenog washa ili ako se prije upotrebe ne protrese dobro.
  
  	Nekoliko je ljudi preporučilo proizvod pod nazivom Instar Matte+. To je koncentrirani aditiv koji se treba miješati u boje kako bi postale mat. Dobila sam savjet da stavim nekoliko kapi izravno u svoju bočicu svog Agraxa ili Nulna. Učinila sam upravo to, i to je zapravo ubilo sjaj. To je sjajna vijest, jer to znači da mogu spasiti onih nekoliko boca novih Citadelovih washeva koje sam nakupila prije nego što sam shvatila da ne valjaju.
  
  	Kad sam se igrala s Matte+, pokušala sam ga pomiješati s tintama da vidim što će se dogoditi. Čini ih matiranim, ali imaju sličan problem s ostacima kao kod kombinacije washa s vodom. Međutim, u ovom slučaju rezultat izgleda kao pristojan učinak hrđe. Nisam sigurna isplati li se dalje istraživati, ali u nastavku je kako izgleda.
  
  	
  
  	CIJENA
  
  	Cijena nije nešto o čemu sam previše razmišljala prije nego što sam počela drobiti ove brojke. Bilo je zanimljivo i otvaralo je oči.
  
  	Poštarina nije uključena u cijene. Uključen je PDV od 25%. Imajte na umu da se cijena svakog proizvoda može malo razlikovati od dobavljača do dobavljača. Morala sam naručivati iz više webshopova ovisno o dostupnosti i zalihama. Dolaze u bočicama različitih veličina pa sam, kako bih mogala ispravno usporediti, izračunala njihovu cijenu po ml (navedenu u zagradama).
  
  	Najpovoljniji je bio AK Deep Shade Grime od 4,89 € za bočicu od 30 ml (0,16 €/mL). Odmah ga slijede Vallejo washevi po 3,10 € za 18 mL (0,17 €/mL), a zatim The Army Painter tone trio po 3,49 € za 18 mL (0,19 €/mL).
  
  	Sljedeća razina su Pro Acryl 22 mL za 5,99 € (0,27 €/mL) i Duncan’s TTC pranje po 4,41 € za 15 mL (0,29 €/mL).
  
  	I na kraju imamo Citadelove 18mL za 6,63 € (0,37 €/mL), što ga čini duplo većom cijenom od proizvoda iz prve skupine. Uf.
  
  	Neću uspoređivati tinte zajedno s washevima jer se moraju koristiti s velikom količinom medija. Bočica s tintom trajat će vam drastično dulje od bočice washa, ali uz nju morate kupiti medij, što komplicira izračun. Ovaj put nisam ulazila u to. No, evo cijena tinti: AK Wood Brown INK je bila 4,68 € za 30 mL (0,16 €/mL), Vallejo Sepia Ink 18 ml je bila 3,10 € (0,17/mL), a S75 Inktense Wood 17mL za 4,04€ (0,24€/mL).
  
  	Instar Matte + aditiv je bio 2,03€ za njihovu ambalažu od 10mL (0,20/mL). Postaje jeftinije ako kupite veću bočicu, ali ionako biste ga trebali koristiti u vrlo malim dozama.
  
  	BOČICA
  
  	Ovo za mene nije odlučujući faktor, ali postoje razlike kojih se mogu ukratko osvrnuti.
  
  	Da prvo maknete Citadel s puta: bočica s poklopcem. Prevrnula ga i prolila toliko puta tijekom godina. To se može nazvati problemom vještine. ne znam. Umakanje kista u posudu umjesto prskanja po paleti nekako mi ima više smisla za washeve, tako da je to točka za to. Što se tiče Citadelovih ostalih boja, izrazito mi se ne sviđaju bočice, ponajviše zato što njihov dizajn stvarno pomaže da se boja brže suši. Ipak, nisam sigurna kako se osjećam u vezi s tim kod washeva.
  
  	AK Pure Grime dolazi u bočici s čepom na odvrtanje. Nisam ga dovoljno koristila da bih vidjela kako se lako prevrće, ali budući da nema poklopac koji viri, pretpostavljam da je sigurniji od prolijevanja od Citadela.
  
  	Army Painter dolazi u standardnoj bočici s kapaljkom, kao što koristi Scale 75. Vallejo je nekada imao nešto slično, ali ove boje i tinta dolaze u bočicama s kapaljkama napravljenim od mnogo tanjeg materijala. Slučajno sam ih jako stisnula mnogo puta, tako da nisam obožavatelj. Razlog tome je možda ekološki?
  
  	Two Thin Coats - bočica je u redu, ali nešto je čudno s čepom. Wash uvijek jako curi iz njega. Možda mora biti pritegnut 100% čvrsto da to prestane raditi? Nisam sretna zbog nereda. Opet, možete reći da je to problem vještine, ali ja nisam imala takav problem s bočicom s kapaljkom bilo koje druge marke.
  
  	PorAcrylova bočica ima poseban čep s kojim se prije nisam susrela. Lagano se uvija kako bi kapljice mogle izaći iz bočice. Prilično sam sigurna da je ovo otporno na začepljenje (što je smetnja s bočicama s kapaljkama) i da ne dopušta ulazak zraka. Ali malo je neuredno zatvoriti ga jer uvijek ima malo boje zaglavljene blizu vrha koji mora se obrisati.
  
  	Konačno, AK tinta dolazi u staklenoj bočici s kapaljkom, a Matte+ dolazi u maloj bočici s kapaljkom sa sigurnosnim čepom. Dobro radi.
  
  	 
  
  	
  
  	ZAKLJUČCI
  
  	Nakon ovoga definitivno se opraštam od Citadelovih washeva. Spasit ću bočice koje već imam s Instar Matte+ i nikad više neću kupiti drugi. Cijena je ozbiljno prenapuhana u usporedbi s bilo kojim drugim brendom, dok je kvaliteta lošija u većini aspekata i zahtijeva od mene da potrošim još više novca na proizvode trećih strana da bi funkcionirao.
  
  	TwoThinCoats wash je vrlo čest prijedlog. Među skupljim je opcijama, ali se ne ističe dovoljno da to nadoknadi. U redu je, ali neće biti moj novi izbor marke.
  
  	Army Painter washevi su stvarno popularna opcija. Pristupačniji su i moj LGS ih ima na zalihama, što ih čini dodatno dostupnima. Također su među najmanje matiranima, ali mat medij to dosljedno popravlja. Dobro, ali ne i omiljeno.
  
  	Vallejo washevi su visoko na mom popisu. Lijepo su mat iz bočice i jako mi se sviđa nijansa njihove Umber boje. Cijena je također među najboljima.
  
  	ProAcryl je također dobar. Lijep protok, mat finiš. Ipak, boja i cijena ga za mene stavljaju ispod Valleja.
  
  	AK Deep Shades Pure Grime je malo viskozniji od ostalih. Ostaje tamo gdje ga stavite, što obično znači da će teže zaprljati područja koja ne želite zasjeniti. Najmanje je skupa opcija. Nijansa je lijepa, ali je intenzitet svjetliji. Sveukupno za mene je to sredina.
  
  	Tinte - AK, Vallejo i S75 sve tri djeluju isto prema mom ograničenom iskustvu. Kada je riječ o nijansi, sklona sam Vallejovoj Umber. Zapravo me zanima da ih dalje koristim u kombinaciji s mat medijem. Imaju bolju vrijednost za novac od washeva.
  
  	Na sličan način, pokušala sam pomiješati vlastiti wash kombinirajući Scalecolor Artist Burnt Umber s Lahmian Medium. Bilo je prilično dobro i još jednom puno jeftinije od bilo kojeg washa.
  
  	Kada bih morala birati koji mi je wash najdraži, rekla bih Vallejo. Ali mislim da bi moja budućnost mogla biti pronalaženje pristojnog, ali ne precijenjenog mat medija i miješanje vlastitog washa. Već moram upotrijebiti medij ako želim razrijediti boju, pa bih također mogla dobiti pigment iz tinte ili kvalitetne akrilne boje.
  
  	 
  
  	Nastavit ću koristiti izbor ovih washeva dok se ne potroše. Ako se predomislim o nečemu, možda ću se u budućnosti vratiti na ovu temu.
  
  	Sve u ovom članku moje je mišljenje temeljeno na iskustvu isprobavanja proizvoda.
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  Ana Polanšćak, 22.01.2025.
• Vinjeta u okviru – Mos Pelgo, prvi dio

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  	During the weekend, 20-21.5.2023, we held a new weekend diorama making workshop called Vignette in a Frame. Over the course of two days, participants created a staged representation of a haustor/entrance of their own choice from about 10 offered designs, both historical and fantasy/SF themed. The subject of the workshop was the creation of a diorama with elements of stone, wood, metal, concrete/plaster. They placed a representation of the entrance to a building in a frame with internal dimensions of 10 x 15 cm. As part of this workshop, this SW base was assembled, which took almost two years to find its purpose. In the next two articles, we will describe how we painted it and how we painted the characters we placed on it.
  
  	  
  
  	The work at this stage was probably completed in the spring of 2023. In early 2025, I got an idea of what to do next. I decided on characters from the SW world – Cad Bane and his henchmen. The figures are from the game Shatterpoint and seemed to me to be just the right scale for this base.
  
  	  
  
  	I used masking tape to cover the parts of the facade that will be of a different color and created a two-tone scheme for the facade. I did the initial weathering with acrylics with a light application of dry paint.
  
  	  
  
  	Then came the addition of oil effects. I modulated the tone of the facade with beige, yellow and white oil. And I added the leak effects with olive green and black oil (oilbrusher).
  
  	  
  
  	To check, I looked at how the scene with the figures looked (I painted all the metal parts of the base black).
  
  	  
  
  	Satisfied with the result, I started painting the metal parts. I painted the bottom layer in several shades of silver tones. Then I added black and red-brown acrylic wash. And when everything was dry, I covered everything with Heavy Chipping and Scratches effect.
  
  	  
  
  	Once the effect had dried, I applied the base colors that the metal surfaces were painted in (beige and rotten cherry). After about 15 minutes of drying, I activated the chipping and scratches effects with water and got the desired result.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	To finish the metal parts, it was necessary to paint the crate. I decided to use red spray paint, so I first "isolated" everything with masking tape. After drying, I repeated the process of activating the effects.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	The last job before starting to paint the characters was adding rust to the metal parts and adding blaster holes to the facade. The rust was again done with oils – orange and dark red, in places by brushing, and in places to get a leaky effect. The blaster holes were drilled with a hobby knife and painted black and then beige. And finally I stained the floor and lower parts of the building beige, desert pigments.
  
  	  
  "
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  	Tijekom vikenda, 20.-21.5.2023., održali smo novu vikend radionicu izrade diorama pod nazivom Vinjeta u okviru. Polaznici su kroz dva dana izrađivali jedan scenski prikaz haustora/ulaza prema vlastitom izboru od 10-ak ponuđenih dizajna što povijesne što fantasy / SF tematike. Predmet radionice bila je izrada diorame sa elementima kamena, drva, metala, betona/žbuke. U okvir unutarnjih dimenzija 10 x 15 cm smjestili su prikaz ulaza u neku građevinu. U sklopu te radionice, složena je ova SW baza kojoj je trebalo skoro dvije godine da nađe svoju svrhu. U naredna dva članka opisat ćemo kako smo ju obojali te kako smo obojali i likove koje smo smjestili na nju.
  
  	  
  
  	Po prilici je u ovoj fazi završen rad u proljeće 2023. Početkom 2025. dobio sam ideju što i kako dalje. Odlučio sam se za likove iz SW svijeta – Cad Bane i njegovih pobočnika. Figure su iz igre Shatterpoint i činile su mi se taman u mjerilu za ovu bazu.
  
  	  
  
  	Maskirnom trakom sam obljepio dijelove fasade koje će biti druge boje te odradio dvobojnu shemu fasade. Početni weathering sam odradio akrilima laganim nanošenjem suhe boje.
  
  	  
  
  	Zatim je uslijedilo dodavanje uljnih efekata. Ton fasade sam modulirao sa bež, žutim i bijelim uljem. A efekte curenja sam dodao sa maslinasto zelenim i crnim uljem (oilbrusher).
  
  	  
  
  	Za provjeru sam pogledao kako izgleda scena sa figurama (obojao sam sve metalne dijelove baze u crno).
  
  	  
  
  	Zadovoljan rezultatom, krenuo sam na bojanje metalnih dijelova. Donji sloj sam obojao u nekoliko nijansi srebrnih tonova. Potom sam dodao crni i crveno-smeđi akrilni wash. Te kad je sve bilo suho, prekrio sam sve sa Heavy Chipping i Scratches efektom.
  
  	  
  
  	Kad se efekt osusio, nanio sam osnovne boje u koje su metalne površine obojane (bež i boja trule višnje). Nakon 15ak minuta sušenja sam vodom aktivirao chipping i scratches efekte i dobio željeni rezultat.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Za kraj metalnih dijelova, bilo je potrebno obojati i sanduk. Odlučio sam se za crveni sprej stoga sam prvo sve „izolirao“ maskirnom trakom. Nakon sušenja, ponovio sam postupak aktivacije efekata.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Zadnji posao prije bacanja na bojanje likova, bio je dodavanje hrđe na metalne dijelove i dodavanje rupa od blastera na fasadu. Hrđa je opet odrađena uljima – orange i dark red, mjestimično maljanjem, a mjestimično da se dobije efekt curenja. Rupe od blastera su izbušene hobby nožem i obojane u crno pa bež. I na kraju sam pod i donje dijelove zgrade zaprljao bež, pustinjskim pigmentima.
  
  	  
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  Marko Paunović, 15.01.2025.
• Izrada zimske šume

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      ["title_eng"]=>
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      string(19) "Izrada zimske šume"
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  	In this short article, I will follow the process of creating a winter terrain – a forest as I showed it to the participants of the demonstration workshop as part of Advent in Agram 2024. Over three sessions, I went through all the steps necessary to create a forest under the snow.
  
  	I decided to use a 5mm thick MDF board for the base.
  
  	  
  
  	I cut it to the desired dimensions using a jig saw.
  
  	  
  
  	Then I sanded the edges using a belt sander.
  
  	  
  
  	Then I mixed up a mud/slush mixture consisting of: PVA glue, textured crackling paint, modeling snow, glossy varnish, and clear water gel.
  
  	  
  
  	I applied the mixture with a brush and covered the entire base.
  
  	  
  
  	Since the plan was to cover the pine trees with snow, I could afford to use the cheapest pine trees I found at the hobby store (approx. 1€/piece).
  
  	  
  
  	After determining how many trees per base I would use, I drilled holes in the base using a model drill (in my case an electric drill, although a pin vice can be used for the same job).
  
  	  
  
  	I stuck the pines into the holes in the bases and glued them together with superglue.
  
  	  
  
  	Then I used a large paintbrush to paint the tips of the pine branches white (for a better base). Then I mixed a mixture of white paint, PVA glue, and modeling snow and used a large paintbrush to apply it to the base parts and the pine trees.
  
  	  
  "
      ["content_hrv"]=>
      string(4393) "
  
  	U ovom kratkom članku ću pratiti process izrade zimskog terena – šume kako sam ga prikazivao polaznicima ogledne radionice u sklopu Adventa u Agramu 2024. Kroz tri termina prošao sam kroz sve korake potrebne za izradu šume pod snijegom.
  
  	Za bazu sam odlučio koristiti 5mm debelu ploču MDF-a.
  
  	  
  
  	Ispilio sam ju na željene dimenzije koristeći ubodnu modelarsku pilu.
  
  	  
  
  	Potom sam rubove pobrusio pomoću tračne brusilice.
  
  	  
  
  	Zatim sam umiješao mješavinu za blato/bljuzgu koja se sastoji od: PVA ljepila, teksturne crackling boje, modelarskog snijega, sjajnog laka te prozirnog gela za vodu.
  
  	  
  
  	Kistom sam nanio mješavinu i prekrio cijelu bazu.
  
  	  
  
  	S obzirom da je plan bio da borove prekrijem sniježnim pokrovom, mogao sam priuštiti koristiti najjeftinije borove koje sam našao u hobby dućanu (cca 1€/kom).
  
  	  
  
  	Nakon određivanja koliko stabala po pojedinoj bazi ću koristiti, izbušio sam u podlozi rupe koristeći modelarsku bušilicu (u mom slučaju električnu, iako se za isti posao može koristiti i ručna).
  
  	  
  
  	Borove sam upiknuo u rupe u bazama te zalijepio superljepilom.
  
  	  
  
  	Potom sam velikim kistom obojao vrhove grana borova u bijelo (radi bolje podloge). Potom sam umiješao smjesu bijele boje, PVA ljepila i modelarskog snijega te velikim kistom nanio na dijelove baze i borove.
  
  	  
  "
      ["created"]=>
      string(19) "2025-01-08 09:02:54"
      ["modified"]=>
      string(19) "2025-01-08 09:02:54"
    }
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      ["id"]=>
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      ["first_name"]=>
      string(5) "Marko"
      ["last_name"]=>
      string(9) "Paunović"
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      ["born"]=>
      string(19) "2033-03-07 20:35:00"
      ["created"]=>
      string(19) "2009-06-02 20:37:03"
    }
  }
          

  Marko Paunović, 08.01.2025.
• Diorama Alpi - drugi dio

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      ["title_eng"]=>
      string(19) "Alps Diorama part 2"
      ["title_hrv"]=>
      string(24) "Diorama Alpi - drugi dio"
      ["mask_eng"]=>
      string(19) "alps_diorama_part_2"
      ["mask_hrv"]=>
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      ["content_eng"]=>
      string(3135) "
  
  	In the previous article, I started making the Alps diorama. The main “actor” of the diorama is a 1/87 scale oldtimer bus. In addition to it, the package also included a few figures. In this article, I will describe the end of the diorama.
  
  	In the previous article, we went through everything from making the base to painting it and adding vegetation. The next step was drawing lines on the road. First, I protected the rest of the base with masking tape.
  
  	  
  
  	Then I painted the lines on the road with white paint.
  
  	  
  
  	Finally, I painted the gravel part of the parking lot a whitish color and added weathering of the tire tracks on the asphalt.
  
  	  
  
  	Then I placed the bus in the desired position.
  
  	  
  
  	This completed the creation and painting of the diorama base and all that was left was painting the miniatures. Since they were pre-painted at the factory, I decided to use that scheme, but due to poor execution, I did the entire painting from scratch. From the base colors, adding washes and finally adding highlights and textures.
  
  	  
  
  	After painting the figures, I placed them in place, completing the diorama.
  
  	  
  "
      ["content_hrv"]=>
      string(3120) "
  
  	U prošlom članku sam započeo sa izradom diorame Alpi. Glavni “akter” diorame je oldtimer autobus u mjerilu 1/87. Pored njega u paketu došla je i nekolicina figura. U ovom članku opisat ću kraj izrade diorame.
  
  	U prošlom članku smo prošli sve od izrade preko bojanja baze sve do dodavanja vegetacije. Sljedeći korak bilo je iscrtavanje crta po cesti. Prvo sam zaštitio ostatak baze maskirnom trakom.
  
  	  
  
  	Zatim sam obojao bijelom bojom crte na cesti.
  
  	  
  
  	Za kraj, makadamski dio na ugibalištu obojao sam u bjelkastu boju te dodao “weathering” tragova kotača po asfaltu.
  
  	  
  
  	Potom sam postavio autobus na željenu poziciju.
  
  	  
  
  	Time je okončana izrada i bojanje baze diorame i sve što je preostalo bilo je bojanje minijatura. S obzirom da su bile tvornički predobojane odlučio sam iskoristiti tu shemu, ali zbog loše izvedbe, cjelokupno bojanje sam izveo ispočetka. Od baznih boja, dodavanja washeva i na kraju dodavanja highlighta i tekstura.
  
  	  
  
  	Nakon bojanja figura, postavio sam ih na mjesto i time zgotovio dioramu.
  
  	  
  "
      ["created"]=>
      string(19) "2025-01-02 14:25:55"
      ["modified"]=>
      string(19) "2025-01-02 14:25:55"
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      string(5) "marko"
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      ["created"]=>
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    }
  }
          

  Marko Paunović, 02.01.2025.

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