Steampunk Zrinjevac themed terrain

Marko Paunović, 22nd August 2020

A while back, I got the whole range of Plastcraft: Designed for Malifaux terrain for my demo games and I decided to make a terrain that would compliment these terrain and help fill out my demo table.

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Looking at the photos of Plastcraft terrain and table setup, an idea popped into my mind – make a 19th century park. Fortunately for me, living in Zagreb, Croatia, it's centre is full of 19th century architecture, parks included. The park in the pic with the gazebo is one of more famous parks in Zagreb, only a minute's walk from the town's main square and only a ten minute walk from my appartment. During the January of 2015 I was busy building my park and shooting pics during every step of the build. With the terrain finished, it was time to write the actual tutorial. After a bit of a think, I decided to thematicly group certain actions I did to make the whole process more understandable and easier to follow.

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Obviously the first step was to draw the terrain with all the features to be installed and to make a list of materials and bits needed. I tried to use materials and bits I had handy as I didn't have much time to finish the build so waiting for various shipments to arrive was out of the question. After singling out the materials and bits I'd use, it was time to start the actual build.

THE BASE

First, I drew the outlines of my park on the base (MDF board, 4 mm thick), then I put all the bits on it to see how it all fits. At this time, it's good to have at least one miniature handy to check how it can be moved through the terrain features. No point in making a nice terrain if your minis can't enter it. Once I was satisfied with the result, I used my jigsaw (although a normal saw would suffice) to cut the base into two A4 sized terrains. If you don't have MDF handy, almost all shops selling photo equipment hold those simple glass frames with MDF background held by a couple of clips. It's cheap and it's handy. Once the base was cut, I glued my plastic fence in place. I bought the fence on Ebay. Just search „HO scale fence“. One meter of the fence is about 10 USD with worldwide shipping and there are several designs.

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THE PLASTER

As you can see on the plans, I wanted to make an octogonal gazebo so I needed an octogonal base. The easiest way to make your own walls, bases etc is to cast them in plaster. For that you'll need a mould. I made mine on a seethrough plastic foil as base. I simply put it on the terrain base where I hade previously drawn the outline of the gazebo. I cut several basla wood planks to serve as walls of my mould and glued them using superglue. I mixed the plaster and poured it into my mould. Half an hour later, I had my base. Removing the cast from the mould is easy as it is bendy due to the plastic foil base. A further half an hour later I had the two casts I'd use to make my gazebo. Now I needed to make the walls of the gazebo. I had already made moulds for a brick wall so I simply poured in some plaster and cut the brick walls to size. (However, here I'll also explain how I made my brick walls moulds: A long while ago, I found some railroad model brick walls. Using latex milk, I made the mould by just covering the railroad model brick wall and leaving to cure for about 24 hours.) After sanding the sides of the walls, I glued them to form the octogonal gazebo. One side I intentionally left open. Here I had to make the stairs. Using the same brick wall casts I made the shape of the stairs by carefully cutting the desired shape. The „body“ of the stairs I cut out of HD Styrofoam.

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METAL

With the shape of the stairs complete, I needed to make the metal sheets that would form the stairs while making my terrain look more steampunky. I used simple card (from a box of instant coffee), cutting it into strips. Rivets I made with PVA glue carefully applying it making sure it forms little blobs that would, once painted, look like rivets.

Then it was time to do the metal structure of the gazebo. For this, I used Evergreeen plasticard profiles (I and H beams) and for the fence I used the railings from the HO fence sets I wrote about earlier. The vertical beams I made from the I beams while the horizontal roof holders were done with H beams.

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ROOF

To make the octogonal roof, I first had to make the shape of a single triangle. On the base, where I hade drawn the shape of the gazebo, I gllued one wooden slat 25 mm long vertically. 25 mm would be the height of the roof. Using the glued slat and the drawing of the gazebe, I made my triangle shape gluing three 2x2 mm wooden slats. This would just be my template which I then copied onto the card (from the same box of instant coffee I used earlier) eight times. I cut my triangles with scissors and using some tape I glued them to form the octogonal pyramid that would be my roof. I dryfitted it to the gazebo and it fit well. Using strips of card, I covered the gapse between the triangles and in the end I added rivets and welds using the PVA method I described earlier.

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TEXTURE

With the gazebo done, it was time to add some texture to the base. I cut the small hills from HD Styrofoam and glued them with PVA. If you look at the original design on one piece of the terrain there was supposed to have been a fountain. After finding this piece of pillar I decided it would suit the purpose better. Especially since it had some runes written that might have been done by the Neverborn. Also, with it's smaller base size, it would save me space and give more playing room while the terrain is in use. I then made the curbs of the terrain with some 2x2 mm wooden slats glued with PVA glue. Once that was done, it was time to add the texture. I normally use three to four different sizes grain to myke my texture. This time was no different as I used GF9 rough, medium and fine grit for the grassy parts. For the paths, I used the smallest grain I had – the sand for chinchillas (that I normally use to make facades of buildings). When doing this, I applied watered down PVA and sprinkled the grit starting with the roughest and finishing with the finest. Always do it this way, otherwise only the finest grain will be glued.

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PAINTING THE TEXTURE

After the PVA set, I started painting. First I udercoated everything black. Then I used a brown colour to (wet)paint all the paths and only drybrushed the grassy parts. Then I used ochre paint to drybrush over all the areas. The next drybrush layer was a mixture of ochre and white. I then added a layer of off white drybrush over the grassy bits and finished with pure white over all areas.

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PAINTING BRICKS

I painted the curbs grey and the brick walls orange. Same thing I did on the gazebo. Then I added some redbrownish wash over the brick areas and drybrushed with layers of orange mixed progressively with more white.

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PAINTING BENCHES

I found the benches on Ebay, also (search: „HO scale bench“). Ten of them were around 5 USD with shipping. The wooden parts were drybrushed brown and off white, while the metal was only drybrushed with silver mixed with black.

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ELECTRONICS

One of my favourite hobby shops in Zagreb has these cool lampposts that can be fitted with LEDs. They are from the Decorabilia range of Stamperia (www.stamperia.com) and cost about 5USD per pack of two. To make this part you'll need:
• a single CR 2302 battery
• a single CR 2302 battery housing
• about 5m of wire
• 4 amber LEDs

The CR 2302 battery gives 3V of power. Through each LED runs approximately 20mA of electricity and these high powered LEDs use 2,5 – 3 V of power (normal LEDs use up to 2V). So when these 4 LEDs are connected in parallel (each of them is connected to the battery itself), they need 2,5 – 3 V of power and about 80mA of electricity. The CR 2302 battery should last at least two games with this setup.

As the wires would go on the bottom of the base, I had to make the grooves. I made them using my drill (hence the wobbliness). I soldered the LEDs to the wires (remember to always use the same colour on longer leg of the LED and another colour on the shorter). It'll make things easier when connecting to the battery. I fed the wires through the body of the lampposts and glued them to the base carefully laying each wire in it's own groove. I then attached the clamps to the battery housing and connected all the wires. Once I placed the battery, all the LEDs lit up. Then I used some wooden planks to safely secure the battery housing to the base.

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PAINTING METAL

After undercoating the roof and the metal parts of the gazebo (stairs, railigns and roof structure, I drybrushed the silver/black mixture. Then I applied the brass and gold layers to the brass parts (base and top of the lamppost, railings and the roof body of the gazebo). Once the base layers were done, I applied two special effects made by ModelMates: Rust (to silvery bits) and Verdigris (to the brass bits). Just apply these generously and after about ten minutes drying time, I used a slightly damp earcleaning tips to remove excess effects and add direction to the effects (rust usually runs down a slope). In the end using green washes and glazes I added the moss effect to the brick walls of the gazebo.

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VEGETATION

Once the paint dried it was time for flocking. I first pinned the trees to the base and added static grass gluing it with PVA glue. I also used some fir trees that were also pinned and I added some poison ivy to the gazebo.

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All that was left was to take pics and enjoy a game on my new terrain!

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Latest articles

  • Alps Diorama part 1
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    In the next two articles I will cover the making of the Alps diorama. The main “actor” of the diorama is a 1/87 scale oldtimer bus. In addition to it, the package also included a few figures (but more about them in another article).

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    The idea of the diorama is that the bus stopped at a rest stop somewhere in the Alpine serpentines and the crew of passengers got out to enjoy the view. To get the height, I used 5 cm thick polystyrene. In two layers (with the second layer just being the background).

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    After drawing the road, positioning the elements on the base, I cut the elements and got something close to the final relief look.

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    I rearranged the elements in the diorama to check if everything matched the idea.

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    The next step was to imprint the stone texture into the Styrofoam rocks. I used pieces of tree bark to imprint them.

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    Then I mixed in a thick mixture of modeling plaster to add to the embossed texture and to protect the soft Styrofoam a bit.

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    Once the plaster had dried, I started painting. First I painted everything in a gray base color. Then I added darker shades of gray, black, and brown. The colors I used were very diluted so that they would blend more easily on the surface. When I was done with the darker layers and they were dry, I repeated the same with the lighter tones (gray and beige). This time, the color was not as diluted.

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    The last step was to add asphalt to the road. I used the effect from Ammo.

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    Kroz naredna dva članka obradit ću izradu diorame Alpi. Glavni “akter” diorame je oldtimer autobus u mjerilu 1/87. Pored njega u paketu došla je i nekolicina figura (ali o njima više u drugom članku).

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    Ideja diorame jest da je autobus stao na ugibalištu negdje u serpentinama Alpi i da je ekipa putnika izašla van uživati u pogledu. Kako bih dobio visinu, koristio sam stirodur debljine 5 cm. U dva sloja (s tim da je drugi sloj samo pozadina).

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    Nakon iscrtavanja ceste, pozicioniranja elemenata na podlogu, izrezao sam elemente i dobio nešto što je blizu konačnog izgleda reljefa.

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    Ponovno sam posložio elemente po diorami da provjerim da li sve odgovara zamišljenom.

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    Sljedeći korak bio je utisnuti teksturu kamena u stirodurne stjene. Za utiskivanje sam koristio komadiće kore drveta.

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    Zatim sam umješao gustu smjestu modelarskog gipsa da dodam na utisnutu teksturu i da pomalo zaštitim mekani stirodur.

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    Kad se gips osušio, krenuo sam sa bojanjem. Prvo sam sve obojao u sivu temeljnu boju. A zatim dodavao tamnije tonove sive, crne i smeđe. Boje koje sam koristio su bile jako razvodnjene da bi se lakše miješale na samoj podlozi. Kad sam završio sa tamnijim slojevima te kad su se oni osušili, isto sam ponovio sa svijetlijim tonovima (sive i bež). Ovaj puta, boja nije bila toliko razvodnjena.

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    Zadnji korak bilo je dodavanje asfalta na cestu. Koristio sam efekt od Ammoa.

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    " ["created"]=> string(19) "2024-12-16 10:59:27" ["modified"]=> string(19) "2024-12-16 11:09:32" } ["Member"]=> array(10) { ["id"]=> string(2) "35" ["group_id"]=> string(1) "1" ["first_name"]=> string(5) "Marko" ["last_name"]=> string(9) "Paunović" ["first_name_mask"]=> string(5) "marko" ["last_name_mask"]=> string(8) "paunovic" ["username"]=> string(5) "marko" ["password"]=> string(40) "3bd37b326d19d1880d3b93a4b32e8fb3a90fa122" ["born"]=> string(19) "2033-03-07 20:35:00" ["created"]=> string(19) "2009-06-02 20:37:03" } }
    Marko Paunović, 16th December 2024
  • TOP TIP – Wooden Beam Flooring
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        ["title_eng"]=>
        string(32) "TOP TIP – Wooden Beam Flooring"
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        string(33) "TOP TIP – pod od drvenih dasaka"
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    Construction:

    I used 1 mm thick balsa. I used a balsa cutter to cut the beams to 4 mm thick and cut them to 68 mm long (dimensions of the floorboards in M 1:35). I sanded the edges and placed them on a 2 mm thick balsa base. I glued everything together on a wooden base from swood.si .

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    Painting:

    First I applied Sephia Wash, then sanded a little. Then I filled the cracks with Agrax Earthshade and stained the spots a little. Sanded a little harder and then repeated the Sephia Wash. When it was dry, I used a fine sanding sponge in a few places to simulate wear.

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    Izrada:

    Koristio sam balzu 1 mm debljine. Balsa cutterom izvukao grede na 4 mm debljine i narezao na 68 mm duljine (dimenzije dasaka za pod u M 1:35). Pošmirglao rubove i posložio na podlogu balze od 2 mm debljine. Sve zajedno zaljepio na drvenu bazu od swood.si .

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    Bojanje:

    Prvo sam stavio Sephia Wash, pa malo pošmirglao. Zatim Agrax Earthshade-om ispunio pukotine i malo umrljao fleke. Pošmirglao malo jače i onda ponovio Sephia Wash. Kad se posušilo fina brusna spuzvica na nekoliko mjesta da simulira izlizanost.

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    Krunoslav Belinić, 10th December 2024
  • Back to Basics workshops at Zagreb City Libraries 2024
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        string(85) "Back to Basics radionice bojanja minijatura za najmlađe u Knjižnicama Grada Zagreba"
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    In 2024, we started a new program called Back to Basics miniature painting workshops for the youngest in collaboration with the Zagreb City Libraries. We held a total of four workshops during October and November with 29 participants, our youngest fellow citizens.

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    We held the first workshop at the Children's Department of the Medveščak Library on Saturday, October 12, 2024.

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    The second workshop, also at the Children's Department of the Medveščak Library at Zvonimirova 17, was held on October 26, 2024.

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    We held the third workshop in the VN Reading Room and Gallery (Vladimir Nazor Library) at Ilica 163-a on Saturday, November 9, 2024.

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    The fourth workshop was also held at the VN Gallery on Saturday, November 23, 2024.

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    During the workshop, the participants assembled a model of the castle, then painted it, and finally painted the dragon that guards the tower.

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    Easily available materials are used, as well as those obtained through the upcycle method (upcycling - creative reuse, is the process of converting by-products, waste materials, useless or unwanted products into new materials or products that are considered higher quality, such as artistic value), which makes the entire project environmentally friendly and innovative.

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    After the workshops were completed, the children received diplomas for completing the workshop and, of course, took their work home.

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    As a token of gratitude, we awarded Certificates of Appreciation to the Medveščak Library, the VN Gallery, and the City of Zagreb Libraries. We presented and presented all of our publications and manuals written so far to our colleagues from the Libraries.

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    For larger photos, visit our social networks.

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    2024. smo započeli novi program pod nazivom Back to Basics radionice bojanja minijatura za najmlađe u suradnji sa Knjižnicama Grada Zagreba. Ukupno smo održali četiri radionice tijekom listopada i studenog sa 29 polaznika, naših najmlađih sugrađana.

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    Prvu radionicu održali smo na Dječjem odjelu Knjižnice Medveščak u subotu 12.10.2024. 

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    Druga radionica, također na Dječjem odjelu Knjižnice Medveščak u Zvonimirovoj 17, održana je 26.10.2024.

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    Treću radionicu održali smo u Čitaonici i Galeriji VN (Knjižnica Vladimira Nazora) u Ilici 163-a u subotu 09.11.2024.

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    Četvrta radionica održana također u Galeriji VN u subotu 23.11.2024.

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    Tijekom radionice, polaznici su sastavljali maketu dvorca, potom ju bojali, a na kraju obojali i zmaja koji čuva kulu.

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    Koriste se lako nabavljivi materijali, ali i oni dobiveni upcycle metodom  (upcycling – eng. kreativna ponovna uporaba, proces je pretvaranja nusproizvoda, otpadnih materijala, beskorisnih ili neželjenih proizvoda u nove materijale ili proizvode koji se smatraju kvalitetnijima, poput umjetničke vrijednosti) što čini cijeli projekt ekološki prihvatljivim i inovativnim.

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    Po završetku radionica mališani su dobili diplome za završenu radionicu i naravno, svoje radove su odnijeli kući.

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    U znak zahvale, dodijelili smo Zahvalnice Knjižnici Medveščak, Galeriji VN kao i Knjižnicama Grada Zagreba. Kolegicama iz Knjižnica prezentirali smo i poklonili sve naše publikacije i priručnike do sada napisane.

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    Za veće fotografije posjetite naše socijalne mreže.

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    Krunoslav Belinić, 26th November 2024
  • Big Panda and Tiny Dragon drawing workshop
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        string(55) "Veliki panda i sićušni zmaj, radionica crtanja likova"
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    During this year's Interliber, the author of the books about the Big Panda and the Tiny Dragon, James Norbury, held several different events and meetings with readers. On Friday, November 15, I had the opportunity to participate in a workshop on drawing characters from his books. Since James is an illustrator and his works include abstract landscapes, fantasy art, SF and cyberpunk comics, drawings and graphics, it was interesting for me to see how the panda and dragon characters are created in the technique of Japanese Zen painters.

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    James drew with a felt-tip pen and explained the structure of the characters and their characteristics. For example, the dragon has no eyebrows, so the expression of emotions is partially limited to a couple of eye shapes and hand gestures. While the panda rarely has a mouth in his drawings, so his expression of emotions is also sparse. However, it is precisely through the position of the body, the relationship between the characters, and the text below the picture that James's books convey the story and thoughts of a Buddhist view of life.

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    One of the messages is that not everything needs to be perfect, both in drawing and in life. He is not satisfied with some of the drawings that James made and published in the book, but as he himself says, if he had waited to make them perfect, he would never have published the book. You start with what you have and improve along the way. A philosophy that we often apply with our figures, dioramas and models.

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    I enjoyed copying and learning to draw the characters and tried my hand at making a few frames. At first the panda looked more like a Teddy bear, but with practice it took on a panda-like appearance and body position.

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    I recommend that anyone who has not yet read James Norbury's books find them and read them. They are quick to read, but can leave a long-lasting impression on your mind.  

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    Rezultati prijevoda

    Rezultat prijevoda

    I enjoyed copying and learning to draw the characters and tried my hand at making a few frames. At first the panda looked more like a Teddy bear, but with practice it took on a panda-like appearance and body position.
    " ["content_hrv"]=> string(4186) "

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    Tijekom ovogodnišnjeg Interlibera autor knjiga o Velikom pandi i sićušnom zmaju James Norbury, održao je nekoliko različitih događanja i susreta s čitateljima. U petak 15. studenog imao sam priliku sudjelovati na radionici crtanja likova iz njegovih knjiga. S obzirom da je James ilustrator i njegova djela uključuju apstraktne pejzaže, fantasy art, SF i cyberpunk stripove, crteže i grafike, bilo mi je zanimljivo vidjeti kako nastaju likovi pande i zmaja u tehnici japanskih zen slikara.

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    James je crtao flomasterom i objašnjavao strukturu likova i njihove osobine. Npr. zmaj nema obrve pa je prikazivanje emocija djelomično ograničeno na par oblika očiju i gestikulacije rukama. Dok panda rijetko kad ima usta na crtežima, pa je i njegovo prikazivanje emocija oskudno. No upravo položajem tijela, međuodnosom likova i tekstom ispod slike Jamesove knjige prenose priču i misli budističkog pogleda na život.

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    Jedna od poruka je i da ne treba sve biti savršeno, kako na crtežu, tako i u životu. S nekim crtežima koje je James napravio i objavio u knjizi nije zadovoljan, no kako i sam kaže da je čekao da ih napravi savršeno ne bi nikada objavio knjigu. Kreneš s onim što imaš i putem se usavršavaš. Filozofija koju često primjenjujemo i mi sa svojim figurama, dioramama i modelima.

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    Uživao sam kopirajući i učeći crtati likove i okušao se u izradi par okvira. U početku je panda više sličila na Teddy beara, no s vježbom je dobila pandasti izgled i položaj tijela.

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    Svima koji se još nisu upoznali s knjigama Jamesa Norbury preporučam da ih pronađu i pročitaju. Brzo se čitaju, no mogu ostaviti dugi trag u promišljanjima.   

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    Krunoslav Belinić, 26th November 2024
  • We visited: Slovenian State Championship in plastic modelling, Ljubljana 16.11.2024.
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    On Saturday, 16.11.2024. in Ljubljana, the Slovenian Nationals in plastic modeling was held. Our delegation performed in several categories.

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    After arriving, registering and placing works in the appropriate categories, the most important thing was to meet again and talk with colleagues from other cities and countries such as Slovenia and Italy.

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    It was a special pleasure for us to present and present several copies of our latest edition to our partners and friends from Back to Basics!

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    Also a real refreshment is the discovery of the (so far the only) manufacturer of real wooden bases and plinths in these areas - swood.si!

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    A little after 11:00, it was time to open the even officially and inspect the exhibits.

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    Given that, after several years of ugly weather, this weekend was sunny, we decided to use that time for a walk in beautiful Ljubljana.

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    Kruno: "This year, Slovenian Nationals were also an opportunity to see new and interesting works by colleagues from Slovenia, Croatia, Italy, Austria and other countries. An opportunity to encourage your own creativity and ideas, to admire the craftsmanship, effort and skill of people with whom you share similar interests. The day was beautiful, so the walk in Ljubljana was quite legal and filled the impression of this year's Championship. Marko and Vanja made sure that some "precious" metal was attached to Agram's name, so I was carefree and enjoyed the nice trip."

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    After sightseeing the city, we returned to the competition just in time for the awarding of medals. Our members won a total of 4 medals - 2 gold, silver and bronze!

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    On the way back, our team refreshed itself traditionally at the Reset brewery in Brežice!

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    U subotu, 16.11.2024. u Ljubljani održavalo se Državno prvenstvo Slovenije u plastičnom maketarstvu. Naša delegacija je nastupila u nekoliko kategorija.

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    Nakon dolaska, registracije i postavljanja radova u odgovarajuće kategorije, najbitnije je bilo ponovno se susresti i popričati sa kolegama iz drugih gradova i država poput Slovenije te Italije.

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    Posebno zadovoljstvo nam je bilo predstaviti i pokloniti nekoliko primjeraka našeg zadnjeg izdanja našim partnerima i prijateljima iz Back to Basics!

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    Također pravo osvježenje jest pronalazak (za sada jedinog) proizvođača pravih drvenih baza i plinthova na ovim prostorima – swood.si !

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    Nešto iza 11h došlo je vrijeme za otvorenje susreta i pregled radova.

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    S obzirom da je, nakon nekoliko godina ružnog vremena, ovaj vikend bio obasjan suncem, odlučili smo iskoristiti to vrijeme za šetnju predivnom Ljubljanom.

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    Kruno: “I ove godine je DPS bio prilika za pogledati nove i zanimljive radove kolege iz Slovenije, Hrvatske, Italije, Austrije i drugih zemalja. Prilika za potaknuti vlastitu kreativnost i ideje, diviti se umješnosti, uloženom trudu i vještini ljudi s kojim dijeliš slične interese. Dan je bio lijep, pa je i šetnja Ljubljanom sasvim dobro legala i popunila dojam ovogodišnjeg Prvenstva. Marko i Vanja su se pobrinuli da se i nešto "plemenitog" metala zakači uz Agramovo ime, pa sam ja bezbrižno uživao u lijepom izletu.“

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    Nakon razgleda grada, vratili smo se na natjecanje taman na dodjelu medalja. Članovi su ukupno osvojili 4 medalje – 2 zlata, srebro i broncu!

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    Na povratku naša ekipa se okrijepila već tradicionalno u Reset pivovari u Brežicama!

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    Marko Paunović, 20th November 2024

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