Modular Gaming Board

Marko Paunović, 11th September 2020

In the past issues I've been dealing with various forms of terrain for my Malifaux games. I've started with several bigger, feature terrain, like Western Church with a graveyard, Undertakers or Water tower with a fog machine. I've then continued with a train set accompanied by several modules worth of railroad tracks. Finally I ended with three modules of a dried river and a set of smaller gaming pieces (like forests, rough terrain, fences etc). In this issue, I'll be tackling how to build your own modular board, easily and fairly cheaply.

Obviously like with every big project, When making such a board you need to make the blueprints and carefully think everything through. What size will the board be, how many modules, how to connenct the modules, features stretching through a couple of modules - how to make the transitions... Fortunately for me, the basic idea of the board was already in my mind because a lot would be decided and defined by the terrain I've already built. Colours to be used I need not think about as they must be the same as in all the other terrain. Having such a great number of terrain pieces, means that I won't need a lot of features built into my modules. This makes the actual build easier, however deciding what details and features to use and more importantly where to place them, complicated matters. Over the course of the last couple of years I've made quite a number of large terrain pieces that I would like to use in my games. Having details, like large boulders, in wrong places on the board would prevent me from firmly placing larger pieces of terrain on my tabletop. That is something I need to avoid so I will need to take extra care not to get carried away. Let the board look a bit „boring, flat and featureless“.

Planning

Here is the list of needs and wants I've compiled after a couple of nights of planning:

1. easy storage (modules - no big wooden board that's hard to put away) N
1.1. size of the entire board: 90 x 90cm (or as close as possible) N
1.2. board needs to consist of four modules 45 x 45 cm (or as close as possible) N

2. use magnets for fixing the modules N
2.1. connection of the modules - use magnets (diametre 10mm) W/N
2.2. connection of the modules – use plastic pins (diametre 8mm) W/N
2.3. place the magnets/pins in the middle of each board W

3. details W
3.1. dirt paths – only on two or three modules W
3.2. one module without features W
3.3. dirt road – only on one module, as short as possible N
3.4. all of the modules must have at least ¼ of each module without any features N

4. details mustn't continue from one module to the next N

5. features and details as flat as possible (so I can place my terrain on the table easily) N

6. materials to be used – as light as possible N

7. frame – sturdy that won't bend or break easily N

When I compiled the list, already some things were begining to come to light. The need for light materials to be used made the choice easy – only HD Styrofoam could meet the demand on such a large surface or really thin MDF (maximum 5mm thickness). In the end, I went for three modules of HD Styrofoam (as it is less expensive) and one module of MDF (just for the purposes of this article so I can explain how to make it with this material as well). However, the need for sturdy frame and the connection through magnets meant that each module had to have a wooden frame. This in turn meant that the board would be at least 2,5 – 4 cm high. So the volume the board would have when not assembled would be 45 x 45 x 16cm (maximum height). This means that the whole board wouldn't take up too much space which is exactly what I was going for. After a little deliberation, I've decided to go with the magnets as my choice of connection, instead of pins. I'll do the list of pros and cons a little later on in the article. However, I decided to make a mock-up of the pin connection, as well, for the purposes of this article. Next up, was to make a sketch of the entire layout. I made sure I dotted down everything and proceeded to make a list of materials and tools needed.

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- glues - PVA 1kg, 1x10g Superglue
- paints and spreys
- 6 Pebeo Deco Paints (Black, White, Grey, Brown, Ochre and Ash), one black matt acrylic sprey and one clear matt acrylic sprey
- large brushes No 90, No 40
- airbrush
- brush size 16
- high density sytyrofoam
- 2 boards (1200 x 600 x 20 mm)
- MDF 1 board (50 x 50cm) – just for the purposes of this article!
- 8mm diametre plastic tube – just for the purposes of this article!
- wooden slats
- 8 pieces (30 x 5 x 1000 mm)
- balsa wood 5mm thick (10 x 1000 mm)
- magnets - 32 pieces (diametre 10 mm, thickness 1mm)
- DAS air drying clay (0,5kg)
- plaster (half a cup)
- mould for casting cobbles
- sand and gravel (4 sizes)
- static grass and scatter (three to four sorts)
- scalpel blade
- jig saw
- disc sander
- modeller's saw
- mill bit (10 mm diametre)
- sanding paper
- masking tape

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When you make such a list, you can also add where you can buy those items and it'll make your shopping easier and faster. When all summed up, I reckon, my board wouldn't cost more than 30-35USD which is really great as this is even cheaper than normal playing mats and that came as a surprise really.

Actual build

After you purchased everything you need, it's time to start the build. First thing I did when I started was making the wooden frame out of the 8 linden slats 30 x 5 x 1000 mm planks. I cut them 2mm longer than neccessary. Fortunately, the slats being 1000 mm long I could afford it so each slat could be used to make two sides of the frame. They all had leftovers and when finally done, I'd have modules that were exactly 45 x 45 cm. When cutting (with a saw) cut one from one side of the plank and the other from the other side. It will ensure you that you have at least one vertically cut side (factory made). After you make this, you'll have to sand of the extra 2mm of length. In order to have a perfect fit, I used my Proxxon disc sander that has a movable trey which I set up at 45 degrees angle. After both sides of each plank were sanded I checked if I had perfect fits all around.

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After the wooden frame parts were cut, I proceeded with magnet installment. First of all, I marked one side of all the magnets with green colour and the other with red (note: it doesn't matter which colour you use, obviously, as long as they are sufficiantly different). When I had all my 32 magnets marked on both sides, it was time to mark the wooden frame slats exactly where I would place them. I decided to place them exactly 10 cm from left/right side and exactly 1,5 cm from the top side. Using a marker I jotted down the exact centre so I could aim the vertical drill more easily. I placed the 10 mm diametre mill bit into it and drilled 2 mm deep into the wooden slats. I glued the magnets using a mixture of PVA glue (inside the hole) and superglue (on the magnets).

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In the design phase I mentioned another way to connect the modules. The preparations for the pin connection are mostly the same. Decide where to place the pins (how far from each side of the module and on which height). Using a drill of appropriate size (8mm in this case), I made the holes straight through the wooden slat. I then proceeded to cut the plastic rod into pins of desired length and placed one pin per side. Like with magnets, I carefully marked each side of the module with separate colour (red and green). One colour would have the pin (be the male jack) and the other would have the hole (be the female jack). I would suggest that your pins protrude at least 2,5cm. If you've done everything right, the pins should align precisely with the holes and you should get a perfect fit. Using the pins will provide a more permanent and rigid connection than the magnet version. However, storing the modules would require more space. Of course, you could always opt not to fix the pins to the modules and store them in a separate bag.

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As mentioned above, on three of the modules, I would be using high density styrofoam to make the body of the board so I now had to cut it into four pieces that would go into the four frames of the modules. Since the frames' outside dimensions were exactly 45 x 45 cm and the wooden frame thickness was 5 mm (on each side!), that meant that my styrofoam boards needed to be exactly 44 x 44 cm so using some straight wooden planks (balsa wood) I first drew the outline and then using my scalpel blade I cut the four pieces.

The fourth module would be done out of thin MDF (about 4mm). Using the same method as before, I drew the outline of the module and using my jigsaw I cut it to desired size (44 x 44 cm). Earlier in the article, I mentioned I would list some pros and cons of each method. Obviously, the styrofoam is easier to cut, lighter and due to it's soft properties and relatively high depth provides the builder the opportunity to add some features inside the module. However, the styrofoam usually comes with different (usually diamond shaped) features on it's surfaces. This is because it is used as insulation on houses so the roughness of the surface makes it adhere better to the wall surfaces. I had to remove the texture and I did it using a makeshift tool made from sanding paper, masking tape and a paint bottle. The MDF is obviously a little heavier, more difficult to cut but on the other hand provides better rigidity of the entire module. Also, being thinner than styrofoam, it provides more room on the inside of the module, so your modules can have more texutre and protruding details and you'll still be able to stack the modules on top of each other when placed in storage.

In order to glue the wooden frames at right angle more easily, I made some brackets (of course you can buy them, but it's cheaper this way). From the 5mm thick balsa wood I cut 8 pieces about 5 x 5 cm large. Afterwards using a knife, I cut them diagonally and presto, I had 16 brackets (for each corner of the 4 modules). I glued them using superglue.

I now had all the pieces I needed to assemble the four modules. I used superglue to instantly bond the wooden frames to eachother and to the brackets. When I acchieved the initial strength of the bond, I added PVA glue to all the joints. When the bonds were dry, I placed my styrofoam boards into each frame. After a bit of tayloring with a scalpel blade I had them all fit snuggly inside the frames. I glued the styrofoam boards to the frames using PVA glue (superglue melts styrofoam) and left it to dry overnight. Before pouring the glue, I added masking tape to all the joints on the top surface to prevent the glue from leaking.

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Adding texture

I assembled all the modules to check how they fit. On the module with the MDF base, the base had sunk into the wooden frame and didn't align perfectly. To fix it, I mixed up some plaster with water making sure the mixture was almost fluid-like. When I was satisfied with the consistency, I poured in the plaster and using a long straight slat I leveled the plaster with the wooden frame. Once it was dry, I checked the alignment again and since everything worked out great it was now time to add some scenic features that I decided I'd install. Using my sketch, I carefully copied the design to the board clearly marking the dirt roads, dirt paths and all the clear featureless areas. When I had the design drawn on the board, using some sanding paper taped to a bottle (for a colour I'd be using later) I sanded into the board so the roads would be flat with the ground. I managed to make the profile of the road by just sanding the MDF. If I hadn't succeeded I would opt to use DAS air drying clay. I would shaped some features to the roads and when I satisfied with how they looked, I would smear some PVA glue over the entire surface of the.

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For a long time I debated whether to add some cobbled stone road or area to my board for the purposes of this article. However, in the end I decided against it as it would clash too much with the rest of the scenery. Luckily, on one of my previous projects I did just that so I have a couple of pics to show how it's done. First, using the method described earlier I made a denture in the styrofoam to fit my cobbled stones which I made from a silicone mould I found in a Home depo store (note: it was actually a pot coaster that I used in Wyrd Chronicles no 22). I mixed some plaster with water and I poured it into my mould. Half an hour later I had my cobbles. I placed the cobbles into the appropriate hole and when done, I sprinkled generously some gravel and sand.

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With all the features modelled on the board, I proceeded with adding texture. First I added the big pieces of slate. Then I added the dirt road and/or paths. After I smeared a slightly watered down PVA (just enough so it would spread easily) on all the surfaces, I sprinkled some larger bits of gravel. I added more texture progressively going from larger granulate to smaller. The final granulate size was smallest chinchilla sand. I repeated the process on all the other surfaces, ending in a granulate a tad bigger than chinchilla sand so I could diferentiate between the normal ground and the dirt road.

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Painting

Leaving to dry overnight, I continued the process in the morning with an application of a black undercoat. I used a black matt acrylic sprey. After it was dry, I airbrushed the colouration (using a GW sprey gun because it gives a quite large cover area in a single burst and it's dirt cheap to get). Normal ground was painted with brown while the road was done in several layers ending in a mixture of brown and ochre. The stone bits and areas were airbrushed grey. Final highlights were done with ash and antique white using size 40, 60 and 90 brushes. When the paints were dry, I spreyed everything with a clear matt acrylic sprey.

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Vegetation

After the painting, as always, I added the vegetation. It was basicly a mixture of one type of scatter and three kinds of static grass – a brownish 3mm long one, a yellowish-brown 5mm long one and some yellowish 7mm tufts. The scatter was made from various stuff like twigs, coloured wooden dust and debree and some artificial thread. I applied them all with PVA glue and left it to dry. When it was all dry, I spreyed everything with clear matt acrylic sprey.

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When all was done, I arranged (some of) my scenery on the board and was pretty satisfied with the results.

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Latest articles

  • HOW TO SPEED PAINT AN ARMY FOR A TOURNAMENT
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    This time I'll do a quick step by step tutorial on how to speed paint minis for an upcoming tournament. Using the method described below, I managed to paint the whole Dwarf army for Lord of the Rings SBG in under a week. I'll be using the old Citadel paints nomenclature because the minis were painted when the original models were just released. I had to paint them quickly because the minis were released in May and my tournament was in July so after purchasing them online I waited for the minis to arrive for a better part of a month and by the time I got them there was only one week until the tournament.

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    After assembling the minis on the bases, I undercoated them black and basecoated the cloaks with Bestial Brown and a quick wash of Badab Black (back then it was called something else).

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    For the future red parts I used Dark Flesh, for the blue ones I used Enchanted Blue, white parts were covered with Codex Grey. Yellow bits were basecoated with Vomit Brown while the off white parts were coated with Graveyard Earth.

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    Red parts were highlighted with Blood Red and a final highlight of Fiery Orange. Blue parts were highlighted with a mixture of Enchanted Blue and Skull White (approximately 50:50) and the final highlight was a 25:75 mixture of the same colours. Yellow bits were highlighted with Golden Yellow and Sunburst Yellow. The white was done with a layer of Fortress Grey and a layer of pure Skull White. Leather was painted with a layer of Vermin Brown that was then washed with Devlan Mud (called something else at the time). The off white was painted with a mixture of Graveyard Earth and Bleached Bone.

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    The silver parts were painted Boltgun Metal with a Mithril Silver highlight, while the golden bits (beltbuckles and axe handles) were done with Tin Bitz, then a layer of Shining Gold and A highlight of Burnished Gold.

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    The bows were pretty simple to paint. Just a basecoat of Bestian Brown with a Badab Black wash and a highlight of Graveyard Earth. I made sure the Graveyard Earth was really diluted for the highlight.

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    I decided to have two types of hair. One would be brownish the other reddish. The gingers were done on a Dark Flesh basecoat followed by a Badab Black wash. Highlights were done with Blood Red and Bomit Brown. The brunettes were acchieved with a Bestial Brown basecoat followed by a Devlan Mud wash with Vomit Brown highlights.

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    The basecoat for the skin was Dark Flesh which was then covered entirely with Dwarf Flesh followed with Ogryn Flesh (back then it was called Flesh Wash, I believe). The final highlights were Elf Flesh.

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    On top of the Bestial Brown/Badab Black coat from step 1, I put some pure Bestial Brown. Then I made a mixture of Bestial Brown and Graveyard Earth followed by a highlight of pure Graveyard Earth. The extreme highlight was done with diluted mixture of Graveyard Earth and Bleached Bone.

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    The aplication of varnish marked the end of the painting process and I still had to do the bases.

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    I removed all the miniatures from the bases by carefully cutting them away using a scalpel blade.

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    I am fortunate enough that the town I live in is situated on the sloaps of a hill that has lots of slate. So aquiring real slate is not difficult. I pinned all the minis to a piece of slate each.

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    Using one kind of gravel/sand (roughy the size of GF9 Medium Grit Sand), I covered all the bases. Once the texture was dry, I painted it black then drybrushed it Bestian Brown and added a highlight of Bleached Bone. When all was dry, I glued the minis attached to their pieces of slate on each base using PVA glue.

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    I added two types of vegetation: tufts (that I made from 5-7mm long static grass) and pure static grass (2-3mm long). I glued them using PVA glue. In the end I did the black lining on the sides of the bases.

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    " ["content_hrv"]=> string(7392) "

    Ovaj put ću napraviti brzi vodič korak po korak o tome kako ubrzati bojanje minijatura za nadolazeći turnir. Koristeći dolje opisanu metodu, uspio sam obojati cijelu vojsku patuljaka za LOTR SBG u manje od tjedan dana. Koristit ću staru nomenklaturu boja za Citadelu jer su miniji bili obojani kad su originalni modeli tek izašli. Morao sam ih brzo bojati jer su miniji iazšli u svibnju, a moj turnir je bio u srpnju, pa sam nakon što sam ih kupio online čekao da miniji stignu veći dio mjeseca, a do trenutka kada sam ih dobio bio je samo tjedan dana do turnira.

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    Nakon što sam sklopio figure na baze, premazao sam ih crnom bojom, a ogrtače premazao Bestial Brown bojom i brzim washem Badab Black boje (tada se to drugačije zvalo).

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    Za buduće crvene dijelove sam koristio Dark Flesh, za plave sam koristio Enchanted Blue, bijele dijelove sam prekrio Codex Grey. Žuti dijelovi su premazani bazom Vomit Brown dok su prljavo bijeli dijelovi premazani Graveyard Earth.

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    Crveni dijelovi istaknuti su krvavo crvenom bojom i završnim svjetlom vatreno narančaste boje. Plavi dijelovi istaknuti su mješavinom začarane plave i bijele lubanje (približno 50:50), a konačno isticanje bilo je mješavinom istih boja u omjeru 25:75. Žuti dijelovi su istaknuti Zlatnožutom i Žutom bojom od sunca. Bijela je napravljena slojem Fortress Gray i slojem čiste Skull White. Koža je bila obojana slojem Vermin Brown koji je zatim ispran Devlan Mudom (u to vrijeme drugačije nazivan). Bijela boja bila je obojena mješavinom Graveyard Earth i Bleached Bone.

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    Srebrni dijelovi obojeni su Boltgun Metal s Mithril Silver highlightom, dok su zlatni komadi (kopče remena i ručke sjekire) izrađeni s Tin Bitz, zatim slojem Shining Gold i A highlightom od Burnished Gold.

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    Lukove je bilo prilično jednostavno obojati. Samo temeljni premaz Bestian Brown s Badab Black wash i istaknutim Graveyard Earth. Uvjerio sam se da je Graveyard Earth stvarno super kad se razvodni za highlight.

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    Odlučio sam imati dvije vrste kose. Jedna bi bila smećkasta druga crvenkasta. Gingeri su rađeni na Dark Flesh basecoat nakon čega je slijedio Badab Black Wash. Highlights su napravljeni s Blood Red i Bomit Brown. Brinete su postignute temeljnim premazom Bestial Brown nakon kojeg je uslijedilo pranje Devlan Mud s odsjajima Vomit Brown.

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    Osnovni premaz za kožu bio je Dark Flesh koji je zatim bio u potpunosti prekriven Dwarf Fleshom nakon čega je slijedio Ogryn Flesh (vjerujem da se tada zvao Flesh Wash). Posljednji vrhunac bio je Elf Flesh.

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    Na kaput Bestial Brown/Badab Black iz 1. koraka stavio sam malo čiste Bestial Brown boje. Zatim sam napravio mješavinu Bestial Brown i Graveyard Earth nakon čega je slijedio vrhunac čiste Graveyard Earth. Ekstremni naglasak napravljen je razrijeđenom mješavinom Graveyard Earth i Bleached Bone.

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    Nanošenje laka označilo je kraj procesa bojanja i ostalo je još napraviti podloge.

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    Uklonio sam sve minijature s baza tako što sam ih pažljivo odrezao oštricom skalpela.

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    Imam tu sreću da se grad u kojem živim nalazi na obroncima brda koje ima mnogo škriljevca. Dakle, stjecanje pravog škriljevca nije teško. Pričvrstio sam sve minije na svaki komad škriljevca.

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    Koristeći jednu vrstu šljunka/pijeska (približno veličine pijeska srednjeg zrna GF9), pokrio sam sve podloge. Nakon što se tekstura osušila, obojila sam je u crno, a zatim ju premazala Bestian Brown suhom četkom i dodala isticanje Bleached Bone. Kad se sve osušilo, zalijepio sam minije pričvršćene na svoje komade škriljevca na svaku bazu pomoću PVA ljepila.

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    Dodao sam dvije vrste vegetacije: busene (koje sam napravio od 5-7 mm duge statične trave) i čistu statičnu travu (2-3 mm duge). Zalijepio sam ih PVA ljepilom. Na kraju sam napravio crnu postavu sa strane baza.

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    " ["created"]=> string(19) "2024-03-26 09:02:10" ["modified"]=> string(19) "2024-03-26 09:02:10" } ["Member"]=> array(10) { ["id"]=> string(2) "35" ["group_id"]=> string(1) "1" ["first_name"]=> string(5) "Marko" ["last_name"]=> string(9) "Paunović" ["first_name_mask"]=> string(5) "marko" ["last_name_mask"]=> string(8) "paunovic" ["username"]=> string(5) "marko" ["password"]=> string(40) "3bd37b326d19d1880d3b93a4b32e8fb3a90fa122" ["born"]=> string(19) "2033-03-07 20:35:00" ["created"]=> string(19) "2009-06-02 20:37:03" } }
    Marko Paunović, 26th March 2024
  • Swiss Guard Zombie
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    I recently received a zombie miniature in an unusual costume. He could have been an actor or a pirate or something, but his style of clothing reminded me of the Swiss Guard, so I decided on those colors as well.

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    The figurine is cast, so there was a lot of mess to clean, and considering that the clothes on the figurine are quite scratched, you had to be careful where everything ends or starts.

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    The painting itself was relatively simple. I messed around the most with the butt of the pistol, because I wanted to achieve the effect of wood on wooden parts. It was also interesting to work on skin and injuries (bones sticking out of limbs, open part of the brain, etc.).

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    All in all, everything was done in about 20 hours of work and it was a fun and relaxing project. I had no expectations from him, so I worked relaxed and without "fear" of making a mistake.

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    " ["content_hrv"]=> string(1846) "

    Nedavno sam dobio jednu minijaturu zombia u nekom neobičnom kostimu. Mogao je biti glumac ili gusar ili nešto, no mene je stil odijevanja podsjetio na Švicarsku gardu pa sam se odlučio i za te boje.

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    Figurica je lijevana pa je bilo dosta srha za očistiti, a s obzirom da je odjeća na figurici prilično podrapana trebalo je paziti gdje što prestaje ili započinje.

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    Samo bojanje je bilo relativno jednostavno. Najviše sam se zezao s kuburom, jer sam želio postići efekt drva na drvenim dijelovima. Također je zanimljivo bilo raditi kožu i povrede (kosti koje vire iz udova, otvoreni dio mozga i sl.).

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    Sve u svemu sve je bilo gotovo u cca 20 sati posla i bo je zabava i opuštajući projekt. Nisam imao nikakva očekivanja od njega pa sam radio opušten i bez "straha" od greške.

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    Krunoslav Belinić, 26th March 2024
  • Forbidden Psalm Demo 01
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        string(55) "Demonstracija stolne strateške igre Forbidden Psalm 01"
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        ["content_eng"]=>
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    We are starting the preparations for our traditional Agram Arena Summer - TURM2024 with demo games of Forbidden Psalm, a game that will be played in July at the Arena. In this game, our Ana, the TURM organizer, introduced our local viking Seb to the charm of this inspiring game!

    ANA: "We played a demo of the skirmish game Forbidden Psalm. We used my two warbands: Seb chose Undeadites and I then played Cannibals. Since it was a demo game, I chose the first scenario: "The Mad Wizard's Tea", where our main goal was to pick mushrooms in the ruins while being attacked by ghouls."

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    SEB: "Playing my first game of Forbidden Psalm was overall a great experience. It’s the first campaign based wargame I’ve played, and I really like the mechanic where my main goal is treasure hunting, looting and warband/character upgrading, and that I could hypothetically avoid any fighting whatsoever if I chose to play that way. But of course we didn’t, and the clashing of rusty old swords were as much fun as any wargame I’ve tried."

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    "My old bastard sword took down several of Ana’s warband members, and I gathered several fungi for the mad wizard. With the XP and upgrades made to my warband, this demo game made me hungry for more, to see how far I could take this warband in the quest for more sentences from the Forbidden Psalm."

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    "The setting and atmosphere of the game is great, aesthetically very consistent and moody, and in combination with Ana’s minis and terrain, perfectly fitting the game, playing Forbidden Psalm was a completely immersive experience. Now when I know how the world looks and feels like, it’s time to start thinking of my own unique warband."

    " ["content_hrv"]=> string(2980) "

    Pripreme za našu tradicionalnu Agram Arenu Summer – TURM2024 započinjemo demo partijama Forbidden Psalma, igre koja će se igrati u srpnju na Areni. U ovoj partiji, naša Ana, organizatorica TURMa, uvela je našeg lokalnog vikinga Seba u draži ove inspirativne igre!

    ANA: "Igrali smo demo skirmish igre Forbidden Psalm. Koristili smo moja dva warbanda: Seb je izabrao the Undeadites a ja sam onda igrala the Cannibals. Budući da je bio demo game odabrala sam prvi scenarij: "The Mad Wizard's Tea", gdje nam je glavni cilj bio brati gljive u ruševinama dok nas napadaju gulovi."

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    SEB: "Igranje moje prve partije Forbidden Psalm općenito je bilo sjajno iskustvo. To je prva stolna strateška igra bazirana na kampanji koju sam igrao i jako mi se sviđa mehanika gdje mi je glavni cilj lov na blago, pljačka i nadogradnja crew-a/likova. Pogotovo mi se sviđa činjenica da bih hipotetski mogao izbjeći bilo kakvu borbu ako bih odlučio igrati na taj način. Ali naravno da nismo to odlučili ovaj put, a okršaj zahrđalih starih mačeva bio je podjednako zabavan kao bilo koja strateška igra koju sam isprobao."

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    "Moj stari mač oborio je nekoliko članova Aninog crew-a, a ja sam skupio nekoliko gljiva za ludog čarobnjaka. Uz XP i nadogradnje mojeg crew-a, ova me demo igra natjerala da budem gladan za još, da vidim koliko daleko mogu odvesti ovu ratnu jedinicu u potrazi za više rečenica iz Zabranjenog psalma."

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    "Okruženje i atmosfera igre su izvrsni, estetski vrlo dosljedni i ćudljivi, a u kombinaciji s Aninim minijaturama i terenom, koji savršeno odgovaraju igri, igranje Forbidden Psalma bilo je potpuno impresivno iskustvo. Sada kada znam kako svijet izgleda i kako se osjeća, vrijeme je da počnem razmišljati o svojem jedinstvenom crew-u."

    " ["created"]=> string(19) "2024-03-15 18:39:06" ["modified"]=> string(19) "2024-03-15 18:39:06" } ["Member"]=> array(10) { ["id"]=> string(3) "102" ["group_id"]=> string(1) "2" ["first_name"]=> string(9) "Sebastian" ["last_name"]=> string(8) "Søgård" ["first_name_mask"]=> string(9) "sebastian" ["last_name_mask"]=> string(4) "sgrd" ["username"]=> string(5) "norge" ["password"]=> string(40) "4dea770e7045a97695c7dc529698e85f5dadbded" ["born"]=> string(19) "2003-01-21 09:03:00" ["created"]=> string(19) "2022-01-21 09:03:12" } }
    Sebastian Søgård, 15th March 2024
  • Exhibition of Miniatures and Tabletop Scenery Agram 2024
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        ["title_eng"]=>
        string(56) "Exhibition of Miniatures and Tabletop Scenery Agram 2024"
        ["title_hrv"]=>
        string(39) "Izložba minijatura i maketa Agram 2024"
        ["mask_eng"]=>
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        ["content_eng"]=>
        string(44242) "

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    The exhibition of miniatures and tabletop scenery "Agram 2024" was held this year from 22.2. until 10.03. 2024. The installation of the exhibition was held on Wednesday, February 21. in the afternoon and was attended by a large number of members and friends of the Association who exhibited their works.

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    The opening of the Exhibition took place on Thursday, February 22, 2024. starting at 18:00. The exhibition was organized on the occasion of our twenty-first birthday.

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    As always, the Exhibition presented a cross-section of the work of the Association, its members, participants of its courses and workshops, and members of the FB group Miniature Painters Croatia. In a large number of showcases, there are numerous miniatures for tabletop strategy games, board games, and an entire showcase is dedicated to award-winning exhibits from previous miniature competitions. Several showcases were dedicated to projects that the Association has been implementing for 21 years, such as the UMS “Agram“ Library and Reading Room, the Workshop for Making Spatial Models and the Miniature Painting Workshop.

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    This year we hosted a special exhibitor Gardens of Hecate. A craft from Zagreb that makes and paints miniatures and terrain for tabletop strategy games.

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    During the first weekend of the Exhibition, February 24-25, we held the 18th annual Black Queen Hobby and Miniature Painting Competition!

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    As contestants arrived and registered for the competition, our dedicated staff photographed all the exhibits before sorting them into categories and carefully placing them in glass cases.

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    At noon, all the showcases were full and the competition could officially begin.

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    WARGAMING DEMOS

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    This year, for the first time, we organized demonstrations of the board strategy games Forbidden Psalm and The Doomed. During both days, a handful of games were played on beautiful courts!

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    SELLER'S COURT

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    During the weekend we hosted our sponsors with their sales stands: The Bigbear Miniatures, The Zone Miniatures and Carta Magica.

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    DEMO PAINTING WORKSHOPS

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    The space of Vladimir Horvat's gallery makes it possible to hold workshops during the weekend. Therefore, we organized three sample workshops during the weekend. This year, the workshops were held in the cinema hall. The lecturer's work was recorded with a camera and projected on the projection screen in the hall.

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    BACK TO BASICS WORKSHOPS FOR THE YOUNGEST

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    Throughout the weekend, we held our new workshops for the youngest, in which our youngest participants painted their first miniatures.

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    SPEED PAINTING CONTEST

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    On Sunday afternoon, a competition in quick coloring of miniatures was held. Participants had 90 minutes to color one miniature. Thanks to ourš sponsor Hobby Chest, who provided us with a large donation of coloring materials from AK Interactive, we organized a quick miniature coloring contest according to the following rules:

    - contestants have 90 minutes to color the miniature

    - all contestants paint the same (same type) miniature

    - we provided colors from AK Interactive

    - we provided brushes from AK Interactive.

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    With that, we came to the very end of this wonderful weekend and all that remained was the distribution of prizes and awards to the winners.

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    During the next two weeks, our volunteers held miniature painting workshops on weekdays from 16:00 to 20:00. Miniature coloring workstations were set up where our visitors could color the miniatures we prepared (or their own if they brought them) using our materials and tools.

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    During the second weekend of the Exhibition, March 2-3, we organized a MINIATURE PAINTING WORKSHOP – Frostgrave.

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    The workshop will be held over two days (the whole weekend) and participants will color five different figures for the Frostgrave game, which can also be used for your DND sessions. The focus of these lectures will be coloring several miniatures at once, but the knowledge from the workshop is equally applicable to coloring armies for boardgames and a collection of figures for pen&paper rpgs. Each participant will receive 1 wizard (male/female), 3 warriors (2 male and 1 female or 2 female and 1 male) and 1 male barbarian. The workshop will present colors and accessories, preparation of figures, several techniques for coloring miniatures from basic to more advanced, and techniques and tricks for quickly and efficiently coloring large quantities of figures at once. As part of the workshop, water-based acrylic paints will be used. The lectures will be adapted so that the presenters will devote equal time to all participants and will be able to adapt to all categories of miniaturists (from beginners to slightly advanced).

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    On Wednesday 06.03.2024. the annual session of the Assembly was held, where we determined the guidelines for work in 2024.

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    On Sunday, March 10, 2024 the exhibition was over, our exhibits were safely stored, and the Gallery was cleaned.

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    " ["content_hrv"]=> string(44306) "

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    Izložba minijatura i maketa "Agram 2024" održala se ove godine od 22.2. do 10.03. 2024. Postavljanje izložbe je održano u srijedu 21.2. u popodnevnim satima i sudjelovao je velik broj članova kao i prijatelja Udruge koji su izlagali svoje radove.

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    Otvorenje Izložbe održalo se u četvrtak, 22.2.2024. s početkom u 18:00h. Izložba je organizirana povodom našeg dvadeset prvog rođendana.

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    Kao i uvijek, Izložba je prikazivala presjek rada Udruge, njenih članova, polaznika njenih tečajeva i radionica te članova FB grupe Miniature Painters Croatia. U velikom broju vitrina našle su se brojne minijature za stolne strateške igre, igre na tabli, a cijela jedna vitrina posvećena je nagrađenim izlošcima sa prethodnih minijaturističkih natjecanja. Nekoliko vitrina bilo je posvećeno projektima koje Udruga već 21 godinu provodi poput Knjižnice i čitaonice UMS „Agram“, Radionice za izradu prostornih maketa i Radionice bojanja minijatura.

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    Ove smo godine ugostili posebnog izlagača Gardens of Hecate. Zagrebački obrt koji se bavi izradom i bojanjem minijatura i terena za stolne strateške igre.

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    Tijekom prvog vikenda Izložbe, 24.-25.02.,održali smo 18. godišnje međunarodno natjecanje u bojanju minijatura Black Queen Hobby and Miniature Painting Competition!

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    Kako su natjecatelji pristizali i prijavljivali se na natjecanje, naše vrijedno osoblje je fotografiralo sve izloške prije nego li su ih rasporedili po kategorijama i pažljivo ih postavili u staklene vitrine.

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    U podne, sve vitrine su bile pune i natjecanje je moglo službeno početi.

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    WARGAMING POKAZNE PARTIJE

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    Ove godine po prvi puta smo organizirali demonstracije stolnih strateških igara Forbidden Psalm i The Doomed. Tijekom oba dana odigran je pregršt partija na predivnim terenima!

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    PRODAJNI KUTAK

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    Tijekom vikenda ugostili smo naše sponzore sa njihovim prodajnim štandovima: The Bigbear Miniatures, The Zone Miniatures i Carta Magica.

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    OGLEDNE RADIONICE BOJANJA MINIJATURA

    Prostor galerije Vladimira Horvata omogućuje održavanje radionica tijekom vikenda. Stoga smo tijekom vikenda organizirali tri ogledne radionice. Ove godine radionice su se održavale u kino dvorani. Rad predavača snimao se kamerom i projicirao na projekcijsko platno u dvorani.

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    BACK TO BASICS RADIONICE ZA NAJMLAĐE

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    Tijekom cijelog vikenda održavali smo naše nove radionice za najmlađe u kojima su naši najmlađi polaznici bojali svoje prve minijature.

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    NATJECANJE U BRZOM BOJANJU MINIJATURA

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    U nedjelju popodne održano je i natjecanje u brzom bojanju minijatura. Sudionici su imali 90 minuta vremena da obojaju jednu minijaturu. Zahvaljujući našem sponzoru Hobby Chest, koji nam je osigurao veliku donaciju materijala za bojanje od AK Interactive, organizirali smo jedno natjecanje u brzom bojanju minijatura prema sljedećim pravilima:

    - natjecatelji imaju 90 minuta da oboje minijaturu

    - svi natjecatelji bojaju istu (isti tip) minijaturu

    - osigurali smo boje od AK Interactive

    - osigurali smo kistove od AK Interactive.

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    S time smo došli do samoga kraja ovog predivnog vikenda i sve što je preostalo je bila podjela nagrada i priznanja pobjednicima.

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    Tijekom naredna dva tjedna, naši volonteri su radnim danima od 16:00 do 20:00, držali otvorene radionice bojanja minijatura. Postavljene su radne stanice za bojanje minijatura na kojoj su naši posjetitelji mogli bojati minijature koje smo priredili (ili svoje ukoliko su ih donijeli) koristeći naše materijale i alate.

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    Tijekom drugog vikenda Izložbe, 04.-05.03., organizirali smo RADIONICU BOJANJA MINIJATURA – Frostgrave.

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    Radionica će se provoditi kroz dva dana (cijeli vikend) i polaznici će bojiti pet različitih figura za igru Frostgrave, a koje se mogu koristiti i za vase DND sessione. Fokus ovih predavanja bit će bojenje više minijatura odjednom, no znanja s radionice jednako su primjenjiva i na bojenje vojski za boardgame igre te kolekcija figura za pen&paper rpg-ove. Svaki polaznik će dobiti 1 wizarda (muški/ženski), 3 warriora (2 muška i 1 ženski ili 2 ženska i 1 muški) te 1 muškog barbariana. Na radionici će biti predstavljene boje i pribor, priprema figura, nekoliko tehnika bojenja minijatura od osnovnih do naprednijih, te tehnike i trikovi za brzo i efikasno bojenje većih količina figura odjednom. U sklopu radionice bit će korištene akrilne boje na bazi vode. Predavanja će biti prilagođena tako da će voditelji posvetiti jednako vrijeme svim polaznicima i moći će se prilagoditi svim kategorijama minijaturista (od početnika do malo naprednijih).

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    U srijedu 06.03.2024. održana je godišnja sjednica Skupštine na kojoj smo odredili smjernice rada u 2024..

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    U nedjelju 10.03.2024. Izložba je završena, naši eksponati sigurno spremljeni, a Galerija počišćena.

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    Marko Paunović, 14th March 2024
  • Back To Basics Workshops @ Black Queen 2024
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    Kratka galerija sa prvih Back To Basics radionica održanih u organizaciji UMS "Agram". Radionice su se održavale u sklopu našeg međunarodnog natjecanja u bojanju minijatura Black Queen Hobby & Miniature Painting Competition 2024 u subotu i nedjelju, 24.-25.2.2024.

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    " ["created"]=> string(19) "2024-02-28 07:59:14" ["modified"]=> string(19) "2024-02-28 07:59:14" } ["Member"]=> array(10) { ["id"]=> string(2) "64" ["group_id"]=> string(1) "2" ["first_name"]=> string(9) "Krunoslav" ["last_name"]=> string(8) "Belinić" ["first_name_mask"]=> string(9) "krunoslav" ["last_name_mask"]=> string(7) "belinic" ["username"]=> string(5) "Kruno" ["password"]=> string(40) "eb3fda45fbec0258e90d809803b10491c548b22f" ["born"]=> string(19) "2015-01-18 09:19:00" ["created"]=> string(19) "2015-01-18 09:20:39" } }
    Krunoslav Belinić, 28th February 2024

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