UMS "Agram" : Step by Step – Painting a Joker bust < Articles < Hobby

Step by Step – Painting a Joker bust

Marko Paunović, 30th October 2020

In this article I will describe the steps and techniques covered in the third weekend Miniature Painting Workshop of 2020 using a Joker bust by FC Model Trend.

The bust was undercoated using a black primer and then the zenital light was applied using a white sprey.

The whole workshop was based around two distinctive „projects“. One was all the textile surfaces – on Saturday, the other the head (with skin tones, scars, face paint and hair) – on Sunday. Since I was not sure how the attendees would tackle the textile surfaces and how much time it would take them, I decided to do that first – and if need be to extend the alotted time to Sunday as well. Luckily, it was not needed.

I'm writing this to explain why we started with the textile. Normally, I would start with the head. Which is how I will explain the process to you here.

I used mostly Scale 75 colors and Citadel washes/shades and glazes so I will use those names (you can easily use a paint conversion chart to determine which colors from different manufacturers you can use).

FACE

The idea behind painting the skin is to use a really light skin tone as a base coat ( I used S75 Light Skin). Using glazes made from S75 Basic Flesh and then S75 Indian Shaddow, I added shades. How to make glazes? Use small ammount of paint and add some Citadel Lahmian Medium and a drop or two of water until the mixture is milky, semi transparent. Then just add layer upon layer of those glazes.

I used a relatively large brush (size 1) to do the shades because the color in that state flows relatively freely in each pore.

If you are not in a mood to wait for the layers to dry, use a hairdryer to speed up the process.

Once the shades were done, I started with the highlights. Again, I mixed a glaze from S75 Pale Skin and Lahmian Medium. The highlights were applied with a small brush (000 – like the ones in this box). Why? Because you paint the highlights, almost draw them… so brush control is vital.

To end the process, you can add some Druchii Violet Shade under the eyes and inside and around the scars. I suggest diluting the Shade with some Lahmian Medium and doing it in several layers.

SCARS

Next up were the fresh scars – they are done with Tamiya Clear Red paint mixed with Nuln Oil and Agrax Earthshade.

FACE PAINT

Half the face (not smeared part) was painted with glazes of S75 White. The other half was done with Ammo by Mig Jimenez Washable White Camo. Apply it, leave to dry for about 5-10 minutes and then using a damp brush remove the excess paint in places where you want the face paint removed.

The black/blue/red face paint was done using Ammo by Mig Jimenez Oilbrushers. Apply them carefully drawing the patterns you want. Then using Odourless Thinner (also by Ammo) remove excess paint and smear it downwards or along the creases in the face/scars.

HAIR

Hair was painted using a grey and white drybrush (just be careful not to smudge the face). Once dry, I again applied several green oilbrushers and using Odourless Thinner smeared them along the length of the hair. If needed, in the end, add some Nuln Oil in the deepest recesses of the hair as shade.

This marks the end of the face painting part. We now turn to textile. We covered three different textures: silk (for the tie), cotton (for the shirt) and tweet (for the vest).

All three have the same first step. Pure basecoat of some light color (doesn't matter what color you choose, just pick a light shade of it). Paint in thin layers until you get an even coverage.

TIE

We started with the simplest job – tie. The silky feel is created by adding some metallic paint to the original color. I added some silver to the light blue. Using a Blue Glaze I added some shades, and then added white to the metallic blue mixture did several highlights. Also, the silk tends to reflect light in a sort of colourshift fashion so you can add some red/purple to the mix in the deepest shades.

If you are doing a light and vibrant, warm colour (orange, yellow etc), instead of metallic silver, I recommend using a golden color.

SHIRT

Next up was the shirt. I added some stripes with a lighter color and then with a darker color than the basecoat. Upon reflection, I decided to make a checked pattern so I added some perpendicular lines as well. Once this was done, it was time to shade the shirt. I used Citadel Red Glaze to which I added more and more Ogryn Fleshshade with more and more Lahmian Medium. When the shading was done, I used the lighter shades of the stripes on the raised parts of the shirt to make the highlights.

VEST

The trickiest part to paint as it requires a lot of patience. Again, using a lighter color than the basecoat, I started drawing small zig zag patterns (fishbone). Easiest part to start with would be the pocket and then the collar. By the time you finish with them, you should have the motion in your hand to dfinish the rest of the vest.

Once the pattern is drawn, you can add the shades. Again, I used Citadel Yellow Glaze to which I added more and more Seraphim Sepia Shade with more and more Lahmian Medium. Carefully apply the layers to the bottom of the creases as shades.

When I was done with the shading, I used a lighter tone of yellow (than I used on the fishbone pattern) and carefully added highlights to the creases. Don't use lines on the highlights in this case. Apply small dots (to mimic the light reflection off the weave).

The backside of the vest usually doesn't have the pattern, so to the basecoat I just applied lighter dots using stippling method. The shading was done as with the front part of the vest.

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Ivan Knezović, 26th May 2026

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Krunoslav Belinić, 26th May 2026

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Marko Paunović, 26th May 2026

Back to Basics Workshops in Gallery VN

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	3rd session: Painting a miniature of your choice, Thursday, 21.05. - from 18:00 to 19:00

	

	

	

	

	

	
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	1. termin: Bojenje minijature po izboru, četvrtak, 07.05. - od 18:00 do 19:00

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Krunoslav Belinić, 26th May 2026

Painting Faces at Tabletop Level

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	In this short article, I will describe two ways to paint faces on a so-called tabletop standard. The text follows two versions of the painting. One will use a store-bought wash, and in the second, slightly less contrasting one, I will use a wash that I got from regular paint. This way, the reader can choose which method suits them better.

	  

	The first step is to dye the base color.

	Left: Since I'm going to use a store-bought wash in this example, I decided to go for a darker shade of skin tone.

	Right: In this example, I'm going to use the color as a base for the wash, so I decided to go for a slightly lighter skin tone - and therefore a lighter base color.

	  

	The next step is to apply the wash.

	Left: I use a regular, store-bought Reikkland Fleshshade wash.

	Right: On a drop of the darker skin tone, I add two drops of Lahmian Medium and a drop or two of water. This creates my own wash, which I apply similarly to the example on the left.

	  

	Then comes the first highlight.

	Left: I apply the base color to the raised parts of the face and thus get the first highlight.

	Right: Just like in the example on the left, I use the base color as the first highlight.

	  

	Then the second highlight.

	Left: I get the second highlight by mixing the base color with a lighter shade.

	Right: I follow the same process as on the left, with the caveat that I never use pure white to mix the highlight, it's always an off white – with a minimal amount of some pigment.

	  

	The penultimate step is to outline the eyes.

	Left: This step is identical in both cases.

	Right: I outline the eyes with some off-white paint (to make my life easier, it's usually two lines).

	  

	The last step is to add shadows around the mouth and eyes.

	Left: In this case, you can use a darker wash like Nuln Oil or Druchi Purple.

	Right: I mixed black and purple and added two drops of Lahmian Medium and a drop or two of water to create a darker wash, then applied the mixture to the eye sockets, making sure not to get the wash on the previously drawn eyes.

	And the last thing is drawing the pupils – just vertical lines of dark/black color against the horizontal light lines for the eyes.

	 
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	U ovom kratkom članku, opisat ću dva načina za bojanje lica na takozvanom tabletop standardu. Tekst prati dvije verzije bojanja. Jedna će koristiti kupovni wash, a u drugoj, malo manje kontrastnoj koristit ću wash kojeg sam dobio iz obične boje. Na taj način, čitatelj može izabrati koji način mu više odgovara.

	  

	Prvi korak je bojanje u osnovnu boju.

	Lijevo: s obzirom da ću na ovom primjeru koristiti kupovni wash, odlučio sam se za tamniju nijansu boje kože.

	Desno: u ovom primjeru koristit ću boju kao osnovu za wash, tako da sam se odlučio za malo svjetliju nijansu kože – a samim time i svjetliju osnovnu boju.

	  

	Sljedeći korak je stavljanje wash-a.

	Lijevo: Koristim običan, kupovni Reikkland Fleshshade wash.

	Desno: Na kap tamnije nijanse boje kože stavljam dvije kapljice Lahmian Mediuma i kap do dvije vode. Na taj način dobivam vlastiti wash kojeg nanosim slično kao i na lijevom primjeru.

	  

	Zatim ide prvi highlight.

	Lijevo: Nanosim na izdignute dijelove lica osnovnu boju i na taj način dobivam prvi highlight.

	Desno: Jednako kao i u lijevom primjeru, kao prvi highlight koristim osnovnu boju.

	  

	Potom drugi highlight.

	Lijevo: Drugi highlight dobivam mješajući osnovnu boju s nekom svjetlijom nijansom.

	Desno: Pratim isti proces kao i lijevo, uz napomenu da nikada ne koristim čistu bijelu boju za miješanje highlighta, uvijek je to neki off white – s minimalnom količinom nekog pigmenta.

	  

	Predzadnji korak je iscrtavanje obrisa očiju.

	Lijevo: Ovaj korak je identičan u oba slučaja.

	Desno: Nekom off white bojom iscrtam obrise očiju (da si olakšam život, to su najčešće dvije crtice).

	  

	Zadnji korak je dodavanje sjena oko ustiju i očiju.

	Lijevo: U ovom slučaju, možete koristiti tamniji wash poput Nuln Oil ili Druchi Purple.

	Desno: Pomiješao sam crnu i ljubičastu boju te dodao kap dvije Lahmian Mediuma i kad do dvije vode da dobijem tamniji wash te smjesu nanio u očne šupljine pazeći da wash ne dođe na prethodno iscrtane oči.

	I zadnja stvar je ucrtavanje zjenica – samo okomite crtice tamne/crne boje u odnosu na horizontalne svijetle crte za oči.
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Marko Paunović, 20th May 2026

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