UMS "Agram" : Step by Step – Painting a Joker bust < Articles < Hobby

Step by Step – Painting a Joker bust

Marko Paunović, 30th October 2020

In this article I will describe the steps and techniques covered in the third weekend Miniature Painting Workshop of 2020 using a Joker bust by FC Model Trend.

The bust was undercoated using a black primer and then the zenital light was applied using a white sprey.

The whole workshop was based around two distinctive „projects“. One was all the textile surfaces – on Saturday, the other the head (with skin tones, scars, face paint and hair) – on Sunday. Since I was not sure how the attendees would tackle the textile surfaces and how much time it would take them, I decided to do that first – and if need be to extend the alotted time to Sunday as well. Luckily, it was not needed.

I'm writing this to explain why we started with the textile. Normally, I would start with the head. Which is how I will explain the process to you here.

I used mostly Scale 75 colors and Citadel washes/shades and glazes so I will use those names (you can easily use a paint conversion chart to determine which colors from different manufacturers you can use).

FACE

The idea behind painting the skin is to use a really light skin tone as a base coat ( I used S75 Light Skin). Using glazes made from S75 Basic Flesh and then S75 Indian Shaddow, I added shades. How to make glazes? Use small ammount of paint and add some Citadel Lahmian Medium and a drop or two of water until the mixture is milky, semi transparent. Then just add layer upon layer of those glazes.

I used a relatively large brush (size 1) to do the shades because the color in that state flows relatively freely in each pore.

If you are not in a mood to wait for the layers to dry, use a hairdryer to speed up the process.

Once the shades were done, I started with the highlights. Again, I mixed a glaze from S75 Pale Skin and Lahmian Medium. The highlights were applied with a small brush (000 – like the ones in this box). Why? Because you paint the highlights, almost draw them… so brush control is vital.

To end the process, you can add some Druchii Violet Shade under the eyes and inside and around the scars. I suggest diluting the Shade with some Lahmian Medium and doing it in several layers.

SCARS

Next up were the fresh scars – they are done with Tamiya Clear Red paint mixed with Nuln Oil and Agrax Earthshade.

FACE PAINT

Half the face (not smeared part) was painted with glazes of S75 White. The other half was done with Ammo by Mig Jimenez Washable White Camo. Apply it, leave to dry for about 5-10 minutes and then using a damp brush remove the excess paint in places where you want the face paint removed.

The black/blue/red face paint was done using Ammo by Mig Jimenez Oilbrushers. Apply them carefully drawing the patterns you want. Then using Odourless Thinner (also by Ammo) remove excess paint and smear it downwards or along the creases in the face/scars.

HAIR

Hair was painted using a grey and white drybrush (just be careful not to smudge the face). Once dry, I again applied several green oilbrushers and using Odourless Thinner smeared them along the length of the hair. If needed, in the end, add some Nuln Oil in the deepest recesses of the hair as shade.

This marks the end of the face painting part. We now turn to textile. We covered three different textures: silk (for the tie), cotton (for the shirt) and tweet (for the vest).

All three have the same first step. Pure basecoat of some light color (doesn't matter what color you choose, just pick a light shade of it). Paint in thin layers until you get an even coverage.

TIE

We started with the simplest job – tie. The silky feel is created by adding some metallic paint to the original color. I added some silver to the light blue. Using a Blue Glaze I added some shades, and then added white to the metallic blue mixture did several highlights. Also, the silk tends to reflect light in a sort of colourshift fashion so you can add some red/purple to the mix in the deepest shades.

If you are doing a light and vibrant, warm colour (orange, yellow etc), instead of metallic silver, I recommend using a golden color.

SHIRT

Next up was the shirt. I added some stripes with a lighter color and then with a darker color than the basecoat. Upon reflection, I decided to make a checked pattern so I added some perpendicular lines as well. Once this was done, it was time to shade the shirt. I used Citadel Red Glaze to which I added more and more Ogryn Fleshshade with more and more Lahmian Medium. When the shading was done, I used the lighter shades of the stripes on the raised parts of the shirt to make the highlights.

VEST

The trickiest part to paint as it requires a lot of patience. Again, using a lighter color than the basecoat, I started drawing small zig zag patterns (fishbone). Easiest part to start with would be the pocket and then the collar. By the time you finish with them, you should have the motion in your hand to dfinish the rest of the vest.

Once the pattern is drawn, you can add the shades. Again, I used Citadel Yellow Glaze to which I added more and more Seraphim Sepia Shade with more and more Lahmian Medium. Carefully apply the layers to the bottom of the creases as shades.

When I was done with the shading, I used a lighter tone of yellow (than I used on the fishbone pattern) and carefully added highlights to the creases. Don't use lines on the highlights in this case. Apply small dots (to mimic the light reflection off the weave).

The backside of the vest usually doesn't have the pattern, so to the basecoat I just applied lighter dots using stippling method. The shading was done as with the front part of the vest.

Latest articles

We visited: Slovenian State Championship in plastic modelling, Ljubljana 16.11.2024.

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	On Saturday, 16.11.2024. in Ljubljana, the Slovenian Nationals in plastic modeling was held. Our delegation performed in several categories.

	  

	After arriving, registering and placing works in the appropriate categories, the most important thing was to meet again and talk with colleagues from other cities and countries such as Slovenia and Italy.

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	It was a special pleasure for us to present and present several copies of our latest edition to our partners and friends from Back to Basics!

	  

	Also a real refreshment is the discovery of the (so far the only) manufacturer of real wooden bases and plinths in these areas - swood.si!

	  

	A little after 11:00, it was time to open the even officially and inspect the exhibits.

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	Given that, after several years of ugly weather, this weekend was sunny, we decided to use that time for a walk in beautiful Ljubljana.

	  

	  

	  

	Kruno: "This year, Slovenian Nationals were also an opportunity to see new and interesting works by colleagues from Slovenia, Croatia, Italy, Austria and other countries. An opportunity to encourage your own creativity and ideas, to admire the craftsmanship, effort and skill of people with whom you share similar interests. The day was beautiful, so the walk in Ljubljana was quite legal and filled the impression of this year's Championship. Marko and Vanja made sure that some "precious" metal was attached to Agram's name, so I was carefree and enjoyed the nice trip."

	  

	  

	After sightseeing the city, we returned to the competition just in time for the awarding of medals. Our members won a total of 4 medals - 2 gold, silver and bronze!

	  

	  

	  

	On the way back, our team refreshed itself traditionally at the Reset brewery in Brežice!

	  
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	U subotu, 16.11.2024. u Ljubljani održavalo se Državno prvenstvo Slovenije u plastičnom maketarstvu. Naša delegacija je nastupila u nekoliko kategorija.

	  

	Nakon dolaska, registracije i postavljanja radova u odgovarajuće kategorije, najbitnije je bilo ponovno se susresti i popričati sa kolegama iz drugih gradova i država poput Slovenije te Italije.

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	Posebno zadovoljstvo nam je bilo predstaviti i pokloniti nekoliko primjeraka našeg zadnjeg izdanja našim partnerima i prijateljima iz Back to Basics!

	  

	Također pravo osvježenje jest pronalazak (za sada jedinog) proizvođača pravih drvenih baza i plinthova na ovim prostorima – swood.si !

	  

	Nešto iza 11h došlo je vrijeme za otvorenje susreta i pregled radova.

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	S obzirom da je, nakon nekoliko godina ružnog vremena, ovaj vikend bio obasjan suncem, odlučili smo iskoristiti to vrijeme za šetnju predivnom Ljubljanom.

	  

	  

	  

	Kruno: “I ove godine je DPS bio prilika za pogledati nove i zanimljive radove kolege iz Slovenije, Hrvatske, Italije, Austrije i drugih zemalja. Prilika za potaknuti vlastitu kreativnost i ideje, diviti se umješnosti, uloženom trudu i vještini ljudi s kojim dijeliš slične interese. Dan je bio lijep, pa je i šetnja Ljubljanom sasvim dobro legala i popunila dojam ovogodišnjeg Prvenstva. Marko i Vanja su se pobrinuli da se i nešto "plemenitog" metala zakači uz Agramovo ime, pa sam ja bezbrižno uživao u lijepom izletu.“

	  

	  

	Nakon razgleda grada, vratili smo se na natjecanje taman na dodjelu medalja. Članovi su ukupno osvojili 4 medalje – 2 zlata, srebro i broncu!

	  

	  

	  

	Na povratku naša ekipa se okrijepila već tradicionalno u Reset pivovari u Brežicama!

	  
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Marko Paunović, 20th November 2024

Making a window

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	In this short tutorial, I will briefly describe the window creation process.

	  

	As part of the diorama of Fićek from the National Class, I made a building that looks into the courtyard. I put a "hole" for the window on that wall. After thinking a bit about how and what to make the window frame from, I decided on L-profiles made of plasticard. That way I can frame the hole in the plaster wall (which I have to admit is not the straightest).

	  

	I measured the dimensions of the hole and accordingly calculated how long the profiles I need (to cut them at 45 degrees).

	  

	After cutting, I assembled the shape of the window, then glued it with plastic glue (and finally fixed it all the way with a drop of superglue).

	  

	  

	  

	Then it was the turn of the transverse beams. I cut them out of plasticard 0.5 mm thick. First, I made strips 2 mm wide, which I then cut to the required lengths. After cutting, I glued them using the method from the previous step.

	  

	  

	Finally, I cut out a window shape from the transparent film and glued it on the bottom. Painted the frame and inserted it into the wall.

	  
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	U ovom kratkom tutorialu, opisat ću ukratko process izrade prozora.

	  

	U sklopu diorame Fićeka iz Nacionalne klase izradio sam zgradu koja gleda u dvorište. Na taj zid sam stavio “rupu” za prozor. Nakon malo razmišljanja o tome kako i iz čega napraviti okvir prozora, odlučio sam se na L-profile iz plasticarda. Na taj način mogu uokviriti rupu u gipsanom zidu (koja moram priznati nije najravnija).

	  

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	Nakon rezanja, složio sam oblik prozora, potom ga zalijepio sa ljepilom za plastiku (a na kraju i skroz učvrstio kapljicom superljepila).

	  

	  

	  

	Zatim je došao red i na poprečne grede. Njih sam izrezao iz plasticarda 0,5mm debljine. Prvo sam napravio trakice širine 2mm koje sam potom izrezao na potrebne duljine. Nakon rezanja, zalijepio sam ih koristeći metodu iz prethodnog koraka.

	  

	  

	Na kraju sam izrezao iz prozirne folije oblik prozora i zalijepio ga s donje strane. Obojao okvir i ubacio ga u zid.

	  
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Marko Paunović, 11th November 2024

UMS Agram Appearances in October 2024

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	Modelling Cup Crna Kraljica 2024

	05.10.2024.

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	Days of Technical Culture 2024

	18.-19.10.2024.

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	 

	Modelmania @ Foto Video Show 2024

	26.10.2024.

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	
"
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	Maketarski kup Crna Kraljica 2024

	05.10.2024. nastupili smo na Crnoj kraljici u organizaciji HUVM. Pored prezentacijskog štanda, naši članovi su se natjecali i ostvarili zapažen uspjeh (svi naši natjecatelji osvojili su barem po medalju). Čestitke!

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	 

	 

	XIII DANI TEHNIČKE KULTURE 2024

	18. i 19.10. 2024. smo sudjelovali na XIII danima tehničke kulture u organizaciji Zagebačke zajednice tehničke kulture.

	

	

	

	

	U petak smo održali tri pokazne demonstracije maketarsko-minijaturističkih tehnika (Ana, Marko i Sebastijan) te sudjelovali na Tribini u organizaciji SUPTK i DPTK sa prezentacijom o minijaturističkim i maketarskim radionicama koje organiziramo.

	

	

	

	U subotu nakon službene ceremonije otvaranja smo prezentirali novu knjigu u izdanju UMS Agram - Minijaturizam u doba nakon Corone te održali dvije serije Back to Basics radionica. Polaznici su obojali svoje prve figure! Nakon oba dana došlo je vrijeme i za zasluženu relaksaciju naših volontera!

	

	

	

	

	

	

	 

	MODELMANIA @ FOTO VIDEO SHOW ZAGREB 2024

	26.10. smo nastupili na Model Mania Zagreb sa prezentacijom naših programa:

	- Advent u Agramu

	- Back To Basics radionice bojanja minijatura za najmlađe u Čitaonici i Galeriji VN, 09.11.2024.

	- Izložba minijatura i maketa Agram 2025

	- Black Queen Hobby and Miniature Painting Competition by UMS Agram

	a za najmlađe smo organizirali Back To Basics radionice bojanja minijatura.

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	
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Marko Paunović, 4th November 2024

We visited: FESTUNG KUP 2024

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	Naš Vanja Ilijev je nastupio na ovogodišnjem FESTUNG KUPu u Slavonskom brodu.

	

	

	

	"Ugodna atmosfera uz dosta hrane i pića, klasika za Slavonski brod"

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	Vanja, iz naše riječke podružnice, je osvojio:

	1. mjesto diorama u 1/72,

	2. i 3.  mjesto za figure u 1/35

	3. mjesto 1/72 mlazni avioni

	

	 

	Čestitke Vanja i hvala organizatoru na super organizaciji!

	Fotografije u punoj rezoluciji pogledajte na našim društvenim mrežama.
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Krunoslav Belinić, 24th October 2024

Seb's Top Tip

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	Lately I've been scavenging a lot of "natural" materials for my projects and I noticed these blue, hollow electric wires scattered on the ground near a manhole, where electricians had been working in my neighborhood. I brought a few with me home, and cleaned them up, as I thought they could have some hobby use.

	

	The wire turned out to have two uses once I had coated them in super glue to make them harder and stiffer. First use was as a sculpting tool - I used the smallest one of the three to poke small dots in the back on my greenstuff snail, to create texture in its skin.

	

	Secondly I cut up the wire, and superglued them together in a cluster, so serve as coral reefs for the basing of my marine inspired Turnip28 army.

	
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	U posljednje vrijeme tražim mnogo "prirodnih" materijala za svoje projekte i primijetio sam ove plave, šuplje električne žice razbacane po tlu u blizini šahta, gdje su radili električari u mom susjedstvu. Donio sam nekoliko sa sobom kući i očistio ih jer sam mislio da bi mogle poslužiti za hobi.

	

	Pokazalo se da žica ima dvije namjene nakon što sam ih namazao super ljepilom kako bih ih učinio tvrđim i krućim. Prvo sam ga upotrijebio kao alat za oblikovanje - upotrijebio sam najmanji od tri kako bih ubadao male točkice u stražnji dio svog zelenog puža, kako bih stvorio teksturu njegove kože.

	

	Drugo, izrezao sam žicu i zalijepio ih zajedno u klaster, tako da služe kao koraljni grebeni za bazu moje vojske Turnip28 inspirirane morima.

	
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Sebastian Søgård, 22nd October 2024

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Association of miniature collectors, modellers and tabletop wargamers "Agram"

Step by Step – Painting a Joker bust

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