Selfmade magnetic grip for painting miniatures
For all those who do not like to have more paint on their fingers than on miniatures, holders are a wonderful invention. Whether you're using an expensive model from Games Workshop or an old cork to hold your miniatures while you paint them, you're probably not taking advantage of nature's most fun force: magnetism.
I personally use an improvised holder with a total price of less than 10 kuna (even with skyrocketing inflation), which I responsibly claim offers better ergonomics and safety of use than those for which you will pay many times more in the store.
It is produced from only two ingredients: a wooden figure and a neodymium magnet. No more fastening the base or gluing the figure with patafix, duct tape and similar impractical means. Magnets are extremely practical and if you already use them on the bases of your miniatures, you won't need to change anything in your painting process.
The manufacturing procedures are as follows:
Get a wooden figure (or several) that fits comfortably in your hand. These "man don't get angry" variants are about 10 cm tall and fit in the palm of your hand, have a slot for the thumb and can stand on the table by themselves. They can be obtained from hobby and craft supply stores.
The top of the holder must be flat, so we will "chop off" half the head of this figure to leave a flat surface on the upper side.
Every good executor uses protective equipment. Smart in the head, protective gloves on the hands.
The operation is successful and we have a flat surface. After cutting, you will probably have chips and remnants of wood left on the edges, so just go over the surface and the edges you cut with coarse sandpaper/sandpaper so that they don't get hurt on it.
Take a wood drill bit and drill a shallow hole in the top. An ordinary drill will do if you don't really have a wood drill bit (you'll recognize it by the "spike" on the top).
Try to make a hole that is just as deep as the height of the neodymium magnet (it can be bought in various hobby and electrical stores for less than half a kuna per piece), and the diameter of the hole should be 1-2 mm larger than the magnet. If you drill a millimeter too far, don't worry. The magnet is strong enough even if it is not completely flush with the wood. We made a hole with a depth of 2mm x 12mm because we will put a 2x10 magnet.
Pour wood glue into the groove (karbofix can be found at any hardware store and you probably already have it for other hobby purposes). Place enough to fill the slot completely.
Insert the neodymium magnet and press it so that it sits in the bottom of the slot and wipe off the excess adhesive that will squeeze out, but do not remove too much. You want the glue to hold the magnet on every side except the top, so we made a slightly wider hole. Let the glue dry overnight.
And that's it! You have a holder to which you can quickly and safely attach and detach the miniature without gluing, fastening or other complications. Just keep in mind that the miniature on the bottom of the base must have a piece of metal or magnet facing the right way to attract with the one on the holder. No more colors on your fingers or cramps in your tendons from clumsy and expensive braces. Happy painting!
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Science behind Acrylic Paints
- Binders (eng. resin) – form a film – in our case probably pure acrylates, I suspect they are styrene acrylates.
- Fillers – in addition to adding volume to the paint, they also affect the viscosity, coverage and appearance of the dry film
- Pigments – the main division is into organic pigments and inorganic pigments. Inorganic ones are more covering but have less vivid shades, while organic ones are often quite poorly covering (yellow for example) but their shades are vivid and bright
Additives:
- Anti-foam
- Rheological modifiers – affect the behavior of wet paint on the substrate (e.g. spillage) and the behavior of the paint when a force is applied to it (brush, roller, spray, airbrush). Rheological modifiers also include thickeners that affect the viscosity of the paint.
- Dispersants – envelop pigment and filler particles and prevent their agglomeration during standing. Good dispersion of pigment and filler affects the coverage and uniform appearance of the dry film. There are a bunch more but I won't go into too much detail
- Solvent – in this case water.
Contrast paints and speed paints – high pigment content, but not so much that it causes high coverage. They are formulated to spread, not to stay where you put them. The result of spreading is that the paint collects in the recesses, where a thicker film of paint remains than on the protruding parts of the miniature. Where the film of paint is thicker (the recesses), the shade of the contrast paint is more pronounced, unlike on the protruding parts where the film is thinner, which is why the shade is then influenced by the color of the substrate.
Composition:
- Binders
- Pigments
- Additives – all listed above + surfactants that reduce the surface tension of the wet paint film, which is why it flows
- solvent
- I would say they do not contain fillers, or contain very, very little of them
Washes – similar in formulation and behavior to contrast agents, only they have a much lower proportion of pigments, certainly no fillers, a higher proportion of surfactants, lower viscosity, and probably less binders.
If we want to greatly dilute acrylic paint or contrast, it is better to use a product intended for this purpose from the manufacturer of that paint rather than water, because it contains all the necessary amount of binders and additives for that paint to retain its properties.
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U ovom članku, naša Dunja nam otkriva znanost iza akrilnih boja.
Akrilne boje – visoki udio pigmenta i dobra pokrivnost. Ako su dobro formulirane ostaju tamo gdje ih naneseš, ne ostavljaju „brush marks“ i suše se dovoljno sporo da stigneš napravit što želiš na minijaturi a opet dovoljno brzo.
Sastav:
- Veziva (eng. resin) – formiraju film – u našem slučaju vjerojatno čisti akrilati, sumnjam da su stiren akrilati.
- Punila – osim što dodaju volumen boji utječu i na viskoznost, pokrivnost i izgled suhog filma
- Pigmenti – glavna podjela je na organske pigmente i anorganske pigmente. Anorganski su više pokrivni ali manje živih nijansi, dok su organski često dosta loše pokrivni (žuti npr) ali zato su im nijanse žive i jarke
Aditivi:
- Protiv pjene
- Reološki modifikatori – utječu na ponašanje mokre boje na podlozi (npr razlijevanje) i na ponašanje boje dok na nju djeluje sila (kist, valjak, sprej, airbrush). Pod reološke modifikatore spadaju i ugušćivači koji utječu na viskozitet boje.
- Dispergatori – obavijaju čestice pigmenata i punila i sprječavaju aglomeraciju istih stajanjem. Dobra dispergiranost pigmenta i punila utječe na pokrivnost i ujednačen izgled suhog filma.
- Ima ih još hrpa ali neću toliko u detalje
- Otapalo – u ovom slučaju voda.
Kontrastice i speed paints – visoki udio pigmenta, ali ne toliki da uzrokuje visoku pokrivnost. Formulirane su da se razlijevaju, a ne da ostaju tamo gdje ih staviš. Posljedica razlijevanja je skupljanje boje u udubine gdje onda ostane deblji film boje nego na isturenim dijelovima minijature. Tamo gdje je film boje deblji (udubine) nijansa kontrastice izraženija, za razliku od isturenih dijelova na kojima je film tanji zbog čega na nijansu onda utječe boja podloge.
Sastav:
- Veziva
- Pigmenti
- Aditivi – svi nabrojani gore +
- surfakanti koji smanjuju površinsku napetost mokrog filma boje zbog čega i dolazi do razlijevanja
- otapalo
- rekla bih da ne sadrže punila, ili ih sadrže vrlo vrlo malo
Washevi – po principu formuliranja i ponašanju slični kontrasticama, samo imaju puno manji udio pigmenata, sigurno ne sadrže punila, veći udio surfakanata, manji viskozitet i vjerojatno manje veziva.
Ako želimo jako razrijediti akrilnu boju ili kontrasticu bolje je koristiti za to predviđen proizvod od proizvođača te boje nego vodu, jer sadrži svu potrebnu količinu veziva i aditiva kako bi ta boja zadržala svoja svojstva.
" ["created"]=> string(19) "2025-11-20 13:03:37" ["modified"]=> string(19) "2025-11-20 13:03:37" } ["Member"]=> array(10) { ["id"]=> string(2) "64" ["group_id"]=> string(1) "1" ["first_name"]=> string(9) "Krunoslav" ["last_name"]=> string(8) "Belinić" ["first_name_mask"]=> string(9) "krunoslav" ["last_name_mask"]=> string(7) "belinic" ["username"]=> string(5) "Kruno" ["password"]=> string(40) "eb3fda45fbec0258e90d809803b10491c548b22f" ["born"]=> string(19) "2015-01-18 09:19:00" ["created"]=> string(19) "2015-01-18 09:20:39" } } Krunoslav Belinić, 20th November 2025 - We attended: ModelMania 2025 Marko Paunović, 5th November 2025
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