Making PIETY HILL

Marko Paunović, 22nd August 2020

In this article, I'll be doing a centerpiece terrain for an old west type table. For a while now I've had an idea of doing a hilltop church with a small cemetary for my games of Malifaux and writing this article presented a perfect excuse for such a project.

Click for enlarged picture

Idea and planning

I always say when you start any larger project you should plan ahead first. Take your time and explore your options, design the terrain (in this case), decide what materials would be best, see if you have all the tools at hand and most important check if you have enough glue. There is no worse thing than running out of superglue on a saturday evening when you have a sunday's worth of working planned out.

Click for enlarged picture

The idea behind this terrain comes from a terrain I did for my gaming club in 2003. mainly for Mordheim and WHFB. It was done in the usual Vampire Counts style. The terrain exists to this day and has only minor damage and some small pieces missing as can be seen in the picture. However, as much as I love this terrain, it doesn't quite fit in the Malifaux world. And besides I wanted to see how differently I'd make this (more or less) same terrain 13 years later.

Click for enlarged picture

With the theme of the project decided, I know started to explore my design options. First thing I usually do is go for my home diorama/hobby library. Usually the first books I leaf through are from old masters Ray Anderson and late Sheperd Paine. The former has done some great Old west dioramas and his book The Art of the Diorama is a source of endless inspiration for me, the latter has done mostly military dioramas and his book How To Build Dioramas offers great advice and tips on building scenery and composition. For this project I decided to refer to Ray Anderson's diorama Piety Hill and thus have decided to name my project equally in hommage to this great artist.

Click for enlarged picture

So, with the style and theme decided upon, I began designing the outline of the terrain. It became apparent that the size of the terrain would greatly depend on the size of the church. Since I had an already existing terrain with church as a template I roughly copied the dimensions of the church. With the rough dimensions determined (13x10cm with 5cm high walls), I went ahead and started to draw the design of the wall elements. I wanted to build the model of this church as close to how a real wooden churches were built – by using wooden beams to construct the wall frame segments. Connect those segments and after they are errect, use wooden planks to make the walls. The design of the wall frame segments showed four different setups. One for the front side of the building (10x5cm) with holes for two narrow windows and a door, one for the back side of the building (two such frames would be needed as they are 5x5cm), one for the sides of the building with holes for the windows (four such frames needed as they are 5x5cm) and one for the side of the building and for the church belfry (8 needed – 2 for the sides and 6 for belfry, as they are 3x5cm). I would also need several wooden beam constructions/horns for the roof. When I had all this drawn in 1:1 scale on graph paper, I used a different paint marker (green) to mark how the moulding tool should look.

This sketch provided me with the lengths and ammount of material (tables in the drawing sketch) I'd need for the construction work.

For this project I will need the following materials:
- roughly 7 meters of 2x2mm linden slat
- roughly 1 meter of 5x5mm linden slat
- roughly half of a meterlong plank of 2mm balsa wood (they come in 10x100cm planks)
- 40x40cm of HD styrofoam
- superglue
- PVA glue
- gravel (three sizes)
- static grass
- pine trees (several)
- other vegetation
- sanding paper (2 sheets)
- foil for overhead projector
- thin card
- toothpicks
- one chain ring and two small hinges for jewlery boxes
- one bell from a Christmas decoration
- several tombstones

The tools needed are:
- scalpel blade
- scissors
- modelling saw
- pin vice (or an electric mini drill)
- brushes
– various sizes
– for painting/washing and for drybrushing
- pliers and pincers - icepick

Building the church

As I mentioned earlier, the size of the terrain and the layout of various elements greatly depends on the size of the church so it was only natural to start with the construction of the church first. Since I would need a lot of slats of various sizes which would require a lot of precise and repeated measuring, I decided to help myself and construct two tools that would be used to cut the slats into several desired lengths. Tool 1 would be used to cut planks 13, 30 and 50 mm long, whereas Tool 2 would cut planks 11, 20 and 46 mm long. The geometry of these simple tools would allow fast and precise cutting of the linden slats and true enough after only an hour I had cut almost 7 meters of linden slats into 181 differently sized would-be wooden beams. Using scotch tape I glued them all into groups so they wouldn't get mixed up.

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Next up, it was time to construct the moulding tools to simplify the production of wooden frames and ensure the right angles of the beam connections (as much as possible). For this, I used one sheet of transparent plastic foil. I simply placed it over the sketch and glued the 5x5mm linden slats over the green marked areas on the sketch. Inside I put the linden slats of according sizes (I had previously written the sizes in red on the sketch for easier assembly) and put just a dab of superglue making sure it didn't run onto the plastic foil or the thicker linden slats of the moulding tool. A great advice is to use Rapid Cure. This is a chemical of sorts that instantly cures the superglue the moment it comes into contact with it. However it leaves some white marks which in this case won't matter as everything will get painted in the end.

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Once I had all the wooden frames for the bottom part of the church I glued them onto a balsa wood base. I now had the outline of my would-be church. It was time to construct the belfry and the roof. Using the same method, I made the roof horns – basicly a set of triangles glued to gether. To make those, I used only one mould tool as all I really needed was to construct the right angle between the horizontal and perpendicular beams. Once they are fixed, I just connected the hypothenuse of the triangle that would hold the roof. I made several sizes of the roof horn in order to have an appearance of a wobbly roof. When the roof construction was done, I glued 2mm balsa wood over it that would hold the roof tiles. (Note: I didn't glue the roof construction to the wall frames so the roof will be removable) With the roof construction done, I proceeded to make the belfry using 6 smaller wall frames and some roof triangles.

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

It was time to fill the walls with planks. Using 2mm thick balsa wood I cut strips about 30cm long and 5mm wide using an icepick. The shape of the icepick enables the bevelled look of the plank in one stroke (both cutting and bevelling at the same time). If I had used the scalpel blade, I would have to chamfer the sides which would prolong the process. Afterwards, I again resorted to my makeshift tools for cutting planks and made a bunch of 20, 30 and 50mm planks out of the balsa strips. These I then glued to the floor, making sure I followed a certain pattern. It does not matter which pattern you use, but you need to follow it to the end. In the case of my floor, I used the following pattern: 40mm-50mm; 20mm-50mm-20mm; 50mm-40mm; 20mm-50mm-20mm and repeat. I used a similar method for all the walls. Where the length of the plank protruded from the wall frame, I had cut the excess material only after the glue had set (which is best seen on the roof part). Once both parts of the church were done (roof and building) I glued them on a stick to make the undercoating with a black sprey easier and to prevent spreying over my hands.

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Making the base

With the church done, I could now make the base for the terrain. Same as in the original from 2003, I opted to make it from HD Styrofoam. Although these days I opt for the more sturdier materials for the base (like MDF), I went for the styrofoam because I wanted the extra height that 3cm thick styrofoam provides. First, I drew the church outline with a marker and then arranged all the elements according to their position to the church. Once I had all the elements in place, I drew the outline of the top side of the base and around it the bottom side. Using a scalpel blade I cut the base along the outmost line. In several steps I cut the base until I reached the inner outline of the base adding more angle to the blade with each step. Once the cutting part was done, I sanded everything using sanding paper. I also made a couple of stone boulders from leftover pieces of styrofoam and glued them to the base using PVA glue and toothpicks as pins.

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

5x5mm linden slat was used to make the gate to the church graveyard. Using my electric mini drill (which can be replaced by a hand-held pin vice) I pinned all the pieces together and to the base again using toothpicks as pins. Once the gate was done, I made the wobbly wooden fence from toothpicks and balsa wood planks left over from church construction. Before adding texture it was time to dryfit the two pieces together. Upon inspection I discovered several damaged places on the styrofoam that needed fixing. Had I more time, I would probably have filled those with DAS airdrying clay. However, several strips of masking tape provided a perfect quick fix.

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Texturing

At this point, I was nearing the end of the construction and all that had to be done before the painting was to add texture to the base. Before doing this, take a look at the picture of the old piece taken in 2016. You will see that there is a damage to the road just on the rim of the base. I'm not sure what happened or how it got torn off, but my best guess is that the styrofoam base was not fully protected before undercoating with a sprey so it damaged the undersurface of the base and during time the stress broke off this piece. In order to prevent this (as much as possible) I decided to cover about 5mm around the edge of the underside with PVA and thus protect it from damage. While it was drying, I took out all the gravel I was to use on this project:
- chinchilla sand – smallest grain
- GF9 medium basing grit
- chinchilla sand – largest grain

Once the PVA protection was dry, I smeared more wattered-down PVA on the surface that would become the road/yard. I first sprinkled over some largest grain gravel, next I sprinkeld some GF9 Medium Basing Grit and to finish I poured over the smallest grain chinchilla sand. If you sprinkle gently and with care you can end up with nice variations in texture – for instance the middle of the dirt road usually has some larger stones as opposed to the sides of it. When the road was dry, I repeated the process with the rest of the base, sprinkling the two largest grains over the ground part and smallest grain over the boulders and graves.

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Preparation while waiting

While I was waiting for the texture to dry, I made the roof tiles from finest grain sanding paper. It has nice texture when painted. I also put metal pins to the pine trees I was going to use on this terrain. The easies method of pinning metal pins to the plastic trunks of the trees is to heat the metal pin using a candle and just stick it into the trunk. The heat will melt the plastic locally. As the pin goes into the trunk it gives over heat (to the trunk that melts) and once the pin is cool it will become lodged into the trunk without any need to glue it.

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Painting the base

After the texture had set, I undercoated the base using black sprey and it was time to paint the terrain. Unlike my minis, I like to use minimal/limited pallette when painting my scenery. These are the paints used during this whole project (manufacturer: Pebeo Deco):
- White (41)
- Antique White (69)
- Ash (70)
- Ochre (51)
- Brown (29)
- Grey (54)
- Black (55)

On all my scenery I use Pebeo Deco colours as I find they have just the consistency needed for quickly painting the terrain. They are quite rubbish for painting minis, mind you, as they are too thick. For terrain, however, they are perfect and their price of 3USD per 45ml bottle is well worth it. When the undercoat was dry, I painted brown all over the yard/road/graves area and just drybrushed the rest of the base. Using drybrush method (without cleaning my brush from previous paint) I applied ochre over the entire base. On the road part I added a final highlight of a mixture of ochre and antique white. Once that was done, I used black paint to pick out all the details – fence, stones, gate and when this layer was dry, I drybrushed them all with a mixture of black and grey. I highlighted it with pure grey. Now all my grey surfaces were the same, both wooden and stone. To make variation to them, I put a final highlight of pure white on the stone surfaces (stones and gravestones). I also added a highlight of ash to both the ground part of the base (without the road/yard) and the wooden parts. To end this part of painting process I decided to make hommages to two works of art very dear to me. First is the sign on the church gate that says Piety Hill in reference to Ray Anderson's work and the other is the two tombstones – one marked Arch Stanton the other marked Unmarked in reference to one of my favourite movies of all time. This being a terrain for Malifaux, I figured a reference to The Good, the Bad and the Ugly couldn't miss. All three signs I wrote using my 0,05mm micron marker (you can get those from Ebay for quite a reasonable price, and they come in several colours if you need them).

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Vegetation

When I was done with painting, I glued the four pine trees to the base using PVA glue and assmbled all the vegetation I would use: tufts of flowers (found on Ebay), extra long static grass/fibres (Noch), Poison Ivy (ArmyPainter), and a wide assortment of tufts of various colours, sizes and lengths (Gamer's Grass). All these I would use on the base to hopefully get that prairie feel to the piece. Starting with the longest fibres and going to the shortest length tufts I glued each using PVA glue. In the end I added some flowers to the graves. With all the tufts glued, I still had some awkward empty places on the base so I decided to mix some static grass and glue it. I used green, pure yellow, ash and almost black green stuff to get the mixture of the right colour. When I was happy with the shade, I glued it using PVA glue once again.

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Painting the church

While the flock was drying, I painted the church. I decided to go for the brownish interior and grey exterior. Inside was painted using brown, ash and antique white. Outside was painted using a mixture of black and grey, then grey and pure white as the final highlight. While this was drying I added some poison ivy to the base and proceeded to paint the bell. This element was the only one painted with paints I normally use for painting minis. Scalecolor Dwarven and Viking Gold and Vallejo Sepia Shade. When everything was painted, I added the roof to the belfry and glued the church to the base.

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Adding the door that can be opened

During my build of the Malifaux modular gaming board for Figure Painter Magazine, I discovered a nifty little way to make doors that can open. Apart from a couple of linden slats and some balsa, it requires smallest (that you can find) hinges for jewlery boxes. The process of making is really easy, but you need to make sure the hinge is fixed between two plates both on the door side and on the frame side. This way, there is no (or little) chance of the door falling off during opening. Once it was done, I painted it following the process described above and when the paint was dry, I glued the whole thing to the church and the base.

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Final product

The fitting of the door marked the end of the project and all that was left was for me to take it to the club to take a picture of it with it's older brother.

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Latest articles

  • Painting a Floral Kimono
              array(2) {
      ["Article"]=>
      array(10) {
        ["id"]=>
        string(3) "508"
        ["member_id"]=>
        string(3) "107"
        ["title_eng"]=>
        string(24) "Painting a Floral Kimono"
        ["title_hrv"]=>
        string(23) "Bojanje cvjetnog kimona"
        ["mask_eng"]=>
        string(24) "painting_a_floral_kimono"
        ["mask_hrv"]=>
        string(23) "bojanje_cvjetnog_kimona"
        ["content_eng"]=>
        string(8912) "

    In the next article, my brother, Petar, will explain how he painted the kimono on the Tetsuha & Wakaba miniature sculpted by CobraMode. If you're interested, follow him on PlaySupport

    PROBLEM

    Everyone knows that contrast is key when painting miniatures. This doesn't just apply to values and colors, but also to the level of detail that the model has. If you have an incredibly painted or sculpted model that is completely covered in various details and textures, all your hard work is for naught. The brain simply can't absorb all that overwhelming visual information and the model turns into a blurry mass - it's unpleasant to look at.

    The solution is to have areas that are almost completely devoid of detail, so that the observer's eye can "rest" in those places and better perceive the richness of detail in the neighboring areas. To me, however, this is unacceptable. Usually my strategy for creating great models is to simply paint them very quickly, so at least one will win a medal. Lately, however, I have been wanting to invest an unreasonable amount of time in a single model, and to do that I need a way to get as much detail in as possible without the model becoming that aforementioned mass.

    IDEA

    As with many of my miniature problems, the solution came from a product specifically designed for women and has nothing to do with this hobby – wedding dresses.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Wedding dresses are often completely covered in intricate embroidery, yet they don’t appear overly saturated. This is because both the embroidery and its background are the same color, so all of these details blend into the background and become very subtle. In this project, I wanted to see if I could achieve something similar – painting white embroidery on a white surface. If I could, I could use this effect to create a model that at first glance gives a balanced impression of detail, but upon closer inspection reveals that it is even more impressive than it first appeared. In short, I want people to react with: “This looks even better than I thought!”

    PROCESS

    I chose a model that was covered in clothing without any unnecessary details. I started with a base of “white” that was very subtly shaded, because I knew I would add more highlights and shadows later after I finished the embroidery. I played it safe – better to have to highlight more than have the details become invisible.

    Click for enlarged picture

    The model is very small, so I had to choose a simple enough pattern to draw. After a few hours of looking at references of embroidered kimonos, I decided on a floral pattern. I decided that three different repeating flowers would be enough for an interesting pattern.

    I tried a few variations on the pattern before finding three that looked good and were simple enough. I wanted to keep the flowers as small as possible, so simple shapes were the best choice. I settled on:

    - Four simple dots that make up a flower

    Click for enlarged picture

    - X shape (at first I tried to sharpen the ends, but quickly gave up - it's more important to keep it small than realistic)

    Click for enlarged picture

    - A star (in my head it's a dandelion)

    Click for enlarged picture

    Once the shapes were selected, all that was left was to repeat them. To do this, I mixed a little bit of the shadow color with white, because I wanted to highlight them later. Of course, none of the shapes turned out perfectly symmetrical, but that's not a problem because we're talking about fabric that stretches and deforms.

    Click for enlarged picture

    The most important thing in this process is to get the paint to the right consistency. If you thin it too much, it will start to run all over the model and stain it instead of painting it. If it's too thick, it won't come off the brush. Note: I used oil paints. It's probably possible with acrylics, but the paint would probably dry on the tip of the brush a lot.

    Click for enlarged picture

    After many hours, the sample was ready.

    Click for enlarged picture

    During the process I realized that the initial layer should have been lighter, because although this looks good, it doesn't feel like "white on white" to me. The next step was to add additional shading and highlighting to the kimono to make everything look whiter. For this I used semi-transparent oil paints, applied and then feathered with a dry brush.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Once that layer dried, I added the reflected colors from the surrounding surfaces. With that, the floral kimono was complete!

    Click for enlarged picture

    CONCLUSSION

    While I think I learned a lot from this project and the initial idea had great potential, in the end I didn't quite get it right. I don't think the kimono looks completely white. If I were to do this again, I would start with an even lighter base and actually paint all the patterns in a darker color first. Then I would go over them with a lighter tone to create more depth to the embroidery.

    Nevertheless, the result is quite nice, and I promise the next one will be even better! Here is the model when the rest is finished and placed on a cute base.

    Click for enlarged picture

    " ["content_hrv"]=> string(8839) "

    U sljedećem članku moj brat, Petar, će objasniti kako je obojao kimono na minijaturi Tetsuha & Wakaba koju je sculptao CobraMode. Ako ste zainteresirani, zapratite ga na PlaySupport

    PROBLEM

    Svi znaju da je pri bojanju minijatura kontrast ključan. To se ne odnosi samo na vrijednosti i boje, već i na razinu detalja koju model ima. Ako imate nevjerojatno obojen ili skulpturiran model koji je potpuno prekriven raznim detaljima i teksturama, sav vaš trud je uzaludan. Mozak jednostavno ne može upiti sve te silne vizualne informacije i model se pretvara u nejasnu masu – neugodno ga je gledati.

    Rješenje je imati područja koja su gotovo potpuno lišena detalja, kako bi se oko promatrača moglo „odmoriti“ na tim mjestima i bolje percipirati bogatstvo detalja u susjednim dijelovima. Meni je to, međutim, neprihvatljivo. Obično mi je strategija za stvaranje odličnih modela da ih jednostavno vrlo brzo naslikam, pa će barem jedan osvojiti medalju. U zadnje vrijeme, ipak, imam želju uložiti nerazumno puno vremena u jedan jedini model, i za to mi treba način kako ubaciti što više detalja bez da model postane ta spomenuta masa.

    IDEJA

    Kao i kod mnogih mojih problema s minijaturama, rješenje je došlo iz proizvoda koji je posebno dizajniran za žene i nema nikakve veze s ovim hobijem – vjenčanice.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Vjenčanice su često potpuno prekrivene složenim vezom, a ipak ne djeluju kao prezasićena masa. To je zato što su i vez i njegova podloga iste boje, pa se svi ti detalji stapaju s pozadinom i postaju vrlo suptilni. U ovom projektu htio sam vidjeti mogu li postići nešto slično – naslikati bijeli vez na bijeloj površini. Ako uspije, mogao bih koristiti taj efekt za stvaranje modela koji na prvi pogled daje uravnotežen dojam detalja, a pri bližem promatranju otkriva da je još impresivniji nego što se činilo. Ukratko, želim da ljudi reagiraju s: „Ovo izgleda još bolje nego što sam mislio!“

    PROCES

    Odabrao sam model koji je prekriven odjećom bez suvišnih detalja. Počeo sam s bazom „bijele“ koja je vrlo suptilno sjenčana, jer sam znao da ću kasnije dodati još svjetla i sjena nakon što završim vez. Igrao sam na sigurno – bolje da moram dodatno highlightati nego da detalji postanu nevidljivi.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Model je vrlo malen, pa sam morao odabrati dovoljno jednostavan uzorak za crtanje. Nakon nekoliko sati gledanja referenci vezenih kimona, odlučio sam se za cvjetni uzorak. Zaključio sam da će tri različita ponavljajuća cvijeta biti dovoljna za zanimljiv uzorak.

    Isprobao sam nekoliko varijacija na modelu prije nego što sam pronašao tri koje izgledaju dobro i dovoljno su jednostavne. Htio sam da cvjetovi budu što manji, pa su jednostavni oblici bili najbolji izbor. Odlučio sam se za:

    - Četiri jednostavne točkice koje čine cvijet

    Click for enlarged picture

    - X oblik (isprva sam pokušao zaoštriti krajeve, ali sam brzo odustao – važnije je da bude malen nego realističan)

    Click for enlarged picture

    - Zvjezdicu (u mojoj glavi to je maslačak)

    Click for enlarged picture

    Kad su oblici bili odabrani, preostalo je samo njihovo ponavljanje. Za to sam pomiješao malo boje sjene s bijelom, jer sam ih kasnije želio dodatno highlightati. Naravno, nijedan oblik nije ispao savršeno simetričan, ali to nije problem jer govorimo o tkanini koja se rasteže i deformira.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Najvažnije u ovom procesu je postići pravu konzistenciju boje. Ako je previše razrijedite, počet će se razlijevati po modelu i mrljati ga umjesto bojanja. Ako je pregusta, neće sići s kista. Napomena: koristio sam uljane boje. Vjerojatno je moguće i s akrilima, ali boja bi se vjerojatno često sušila na vrhu kista.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Nakon mnogo sati, uzorak je bio gotov.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Tijekom procesa shvatio sam da je početni sloj trebao biti svjetliji, jer iako ovo izgleda dobro, meni ne djeluje kao „bijelo na bijelo“. Sljedeći korak bio je dodatno sjenčanje i highlightanje kimona kako bi sve izgledalo bjelje. I za to sam koristio poluprozirne uljane boje, nanesene i zatim featherane suhim kistom.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Nakon što se taj sloj osušio, dodao sam reflektirane boje iz okolnih površina. Time je cvjetni kimono bio završen!

    Click for enlarged picture

    ZAKLJUČAK

    Iako mislim da sam puno naučio iz ovog projekta i da početna ideja ima velik potencijal, na kraju ipak nisam u potpunosti uspio. Ne mislim da kimono u potpunosti djeluje bijelo. Da radim ovo ponovno, počeo bih s još svjetlijom bazom i zapravo bih sve uzorke prvo naslikao tamnijom bojom. Zatim bih ih prešao svjetlijim tonom kako bih stvorio vez s više dubine.

    Unatoč tome, rezultat je prilično lijep, i obećavam da će sljedeći biti još bolji! Evo modela kada je ostatak dovršen i postavljen na simpatičnu bazu.

    Click for enlarged picture

    " ["created"]=> string(19) "2026-05-05 07:54:11" ["modified"]=> string(19) "2026-05-05 07:54:11" } ["Member"]=> array(10) { ["id"]=> string(3) "107" ["group_id"]=> string(1) "2" ["first_name"]=> string(5) "Ivan " ["last_name"]=> string(9) "Knezović" ["first_name_mask"]=> string(4) "ivan" ["last_name_mask"]=> string(8) "knezovic" ["username"]=> string(8) "IvanKlan" ["password"]=> string(40) "94527877845e989fe51bd34849504967876063aa" ["born"]=> string(19) "2006-01-01 00:00:00" ["created"]=> NULL } }
    Ivan Knezović, 5th May 2026
  • Pigmentation principles: why powdered pigment doesn't work
              array(2) {
      ["Article"]=>
      array(10) {
        ["id"]=>
        string(3) "506"
        ["member_id"]=>
        string(3) "108"
        ["title_eng"]=>
        string(58) "Pigmentation principles: why powdered pigment doesn't work"
        ["title_hrv"]=>
        string(60) "Principi pigmentacije: zašto pigment u prahu ne funkcionira"
        ["mask_eng"]=>
        string(56) "pigmentation_principles_why_powdered_pigment_doesnt_work"
        ["mask_hrv"]=>
        string(58) "principi_pigmentacije_zasto_pigment_u_prahu_ne_funkcionira"
        ["content_eng"]=>
        string(9550) "

    This text was written after a Wednesday get-together where a discussion about the pigmentation of plaster developed. Since I wasn't able to explain everything on the spot, I decided to put it all down on paper — and the principles in question apply more broadly than plaster itself anyway.

    1. What is a pigment — and what is not

    Click for enlarged picture

    A pigment is a substance that imparts color by selectively absorbing certain wavelengths of visible light and reflecting others. A black pigment absorbs almost all wavelengths; a red pigment absorbs blue and green and reflects red. It is important to distinguish a pigment from a filler. Fillers are white or neutral substances that are added to paints, coatings, and masses to increase volume, improve texture, or reduce cost—but do not provide strong color or good hiding power on their own. Typical fillers include calcium carbonate (chalk, CaCO₃), calcium sulfate (gypsum, CaSO₄), barium sulfate, and similar materials. The difference between a true pigment and a filler is not just in color—it lies in a physical property called the index of refraction.

    2. Refractive index and opacity

    Click for enlarged picture

    The refractive index (IR) describes how much light is refracted and scattered when it passes through a substance or encounters its surface. The higher it is, the more the particle scatters light — and thus appears more opaque, "opaque". A few comparative values:

    • • Titanium dioxide (TiO₂) — IR around 2.7 → excellent coverage, strongest white pigment
    • • Zinc oxide (ZnO) — IR around 2.0 → good coverage
    • • Calcium carbonate (CaCO₃) — IR around 1.59 → poor coverage, filler
    • • Calcium sulfate / gypsum (CaSO₄) — IR around 1.52 → almost transparent in a binder, filler

    This means that gypsum and chalk, although white as a powder, become almost transparent in the formulation of a coating or mass. They do not compete with the pigment — they are subordinate to it. That's why a small amount of pigment easily and evenly colors a gypsum or chalk-based mass, while the same amount of pigment in a mass containing TiO₂ would be barely visible.

    3. Agglomeration — the enemy of even color

    Click for enlarged picture

    Pigment powders do not exist as perfectly separate particles. Due to electrostatic attractive forces and surface tension, the particles spontaneously group into clusters called agglomerates or aggregates. Agglomeration is particularly pronounced in: fine particles (the smaller the particle, the higher the surface area to volume ratio, so the attractive forces are relatively stronger) pigments with a high specific surface area, such as carbon black high temperature or humidity conditions When pigment powder is mixed with filler or binder powder, the agglomerates do not break down—they remain as compact clusters. The visual result is an uneven color: dark spots where pigment particles have accumulated, and pale areas where they are absent. The user then concludes that "more pigment is needed"—but this is not true. The problem is not a lack of pigment, but its poor distribution.

    4. Dispersion — meaning properly dispersed pigment

    Click for enlarged picture

    Dispersion is the process of breaking up agglomerates and evenly distributing individual pigment particles throughout a medium (water, oil, binder). A well-dispersed pigment means that the particles are as evenly distributed as possible — each filler or binder particle "sees" the pigment, not just the neighborhood of the agglomerate. Dispersion is achieved by mechanical and chemical means:

    • • Mechanical: mixing with high shear forces (mixers, mill aggregates, ultrasound). Mixing with a spoon or spatula is not sufficient to break up agglomerates.
    • • Chemical: the use of dispersants and surfactants that adsorb to the surface of the particle and prevent it from re-adhering to neighboring particles.

    5. Why liquid colorant works better than powdered pigment

    Click for enlarged picture

    Liquid colorants are not just pigment dissolved in water. They are ready-made systems that contain: Pigment — already dispersed to the level of individual particles or very small clusters Dispersants and surfactants — which keep the particles separated and prevent re-agglomeration Liquid medium — which allows the pigment to be evenly distributed throughout the material being colored before that material begins to set or dry When a liquid colorant is added to the mixing water (e.g. in gypsum, concrete, mortar), the pigment is already in an ideal state of dispersion. The same amount of pigment is evenly delivered to each part of the mixture. The color effect is therefore much more intense than with dry-mixed pigment — with a significantly lower total amount of pigment. The same logic applies to paints and varnishes: pigment pastes and dispersed pigments provide better coverage and color uniformity than pigments that have not undergone the dispersion process.

    6. Practical application — gypsum example

    Gypsum is a good example because it illustrates all the above principles at once. Because it has a low refractive index (~1.52), it is not a true white pigment — it does not resist staining when mixed with a binder. This means that a small amount of black pigment can easily and evenly color the gypsum mass. Why then does it happen to many people that they have to add a large proportion of pigment in relation to the mass of plaster? Because they mix the pigment in powder form directly into the gypsum powder. Pigment agglomerates (especially Fe₃O₄ or carbon black) remain intact, the distribution is uneven, and the result is disappointing. The conclusion "we need more" is wrong — we need better.

    Correct procedure:

    Click for enlarged picture

    Add the colorant (or pigment dispersed in water) to the mixing water Mix the water with the colorant well Only then add the gypsum and mix until a homogeneous mixture This way, the pigment is distributed throughout the entire mass before the gypsum begins to set. The result is an even, intense color with a much smaller amount of pigment than with dry mixing. For those who do not have access to professional colorants, a good alternative are liquid pigment additives available in building paint stores — usually in the form of small bottles intended for tinting wall paints. It is the same principle: the pigment is already dispersed in a liquid medium with additives that prevent agglomeration. Added to the mixing water, they give a more even result than powdered pigment with a significantly smaller amount.

    Conclusion

    The intensity and uniformity of color in a mass depend not only on the amount of pigment — they depend on how well the pigment is dispersed. A pigment powder mixed with a powder of another material almost always gives worse results than a pigment that has been previously dispersed in a liquid medium, in the presence of dispersants. When you encounter the problem of "the pigment does not color enough," it is worth asking yourself: is the problem not in the way it was added — and not in the amount.

    " ["content_hrv"]=> string(9431) "

    Ovaj tekst nastao je nakon druženja srijedom na kojem se razvila rasprava o pigmentaciji gipsa. Kako nisam uspjela sve objasniti na licu mjesta, odlučila sam to složiti na papir — a principi o kojima je riječ ionako vrijede šire od samog gipsa.

    1. Što je pigment — i što nije

    Click for enlarged picture

    Pigment je tvar koja daje boju tako što selektivno apsorbira određene valne duljine vidljivog svjetla i reflektira ostale. Crni pigment apsorbira gotovo sve valne duljine; crveni apsorbira plavu i zelenu, a reflektira crvenu. Važno je razlikovati pigment od punila. Punila su bijele ili neutralne tvari koje se dodaju u boje, premaze i mase kako bi povećala volumen, poboljšala teksturu ili snizila cijenu — ali same po sebi ne daju snažnu boju ni dobru pokrivnost. Tipična punila su kalcijev karbonat (kreda, CaCO₃), kalcijev sulfat (gips, CaSO₄), barijev sulfat i slični materijali. Razlika između pravog pigmenta i punila nije samo u boji — leži u fizikalnom svojstvu koje se zove indeks refrakcije.

    2. Indeks refrakcije i pokrivnost

    Click for enlarged picture

    Indeks refrakcije (IR) opisuje koliko se svjetlost lomi i raspršuje kada prolazi kroz neku tvar ili nailazi na njezinu površinu. Što je veći, to čestica jače raspršuje svjetlost — i time djeluje neprozirnije, "pokrivnije". Nekoliko usporednih vrijednosti:

    • • Titanijev dioksid (TiO₂) — IR oko 2,7 → izvanredna pokrivnost, najjači bijeli pigment
    • • Cinkov oksid (ZnO) — IR oko 2,0 → dobra pokrivnost
    • • Kalcijev karbonat (CaCO₃) — IR oko 1,59 → slaba pokrivnost, punilo
    • • Kalcijev sulfat / gips (CaSO₄) — IR oko 1,52 → gotovo transparentno u vezivu, punilo

    Ovo znači da gips i kreda, premda su bijeli kao prah, u formulaciji premaza ili mase postaju gotovo prozirni. Ne natječu se s pigmentom — podređuju mu se. Zato mala količina pigmenta lako i ravnomjerno oboji masu na bazi gipsa ili krede, dok bi ista količina pigmenta u masi koja sadrži TiO₂ jedva bila vidljiva.

    3. Aglomeracija — neprijatelj ravnomjerne boje

    Click for enlarged picture

    Pigmenti u prahu ne postoje kao savršeno odvojene čestice. Zbog elektrostatičkih privlačnih sila i površinske napetosti, čestice se spontano grupiraju u nakupine koje se zovu aglomerati ili agregati. Aglomeracija je posebno izražena kod: sitnih čestica (što je čestica manja, veći je omjer površine i volumena, pa su privlačne sile relativno jače) pigmenata visoke specifične površine, poput carbon blacka (čađe) uvjeta visokih temperatura ili vlage Kada se prah pigmenta umiješa u prah punila ili veziva, aglomerati se ne raspadaju — ostaju kao kompaktne nakupine. Vizualni rezultat je neujednačena boja: tamne mrlje tamo gdje su se nakupile čestice pigmenta, i blijeda područja tamo gdje ih nema. Korisnik tada zaključuje da "treba više pigmenta" — ali to nije točno. Problem nije nedostatak pigmenta, nego njegova loša raspodjela.

    4. Disperzija — što znači pravilno dispergiran pigment

    Click for enlarged picture

    Disperzija je proces razbijanja aglomerata i ravnomjernog raspoređivanja pojedinačnih čestica pigmenta kroz medij (vodu, ulje, vezivo). Dobro dispergiran pigment znači da su čestice što ravnomjernije raspoređene — svaka čestica punila ili veziva "vidi" pigment, a ne samo susjedstvo aglomerata. Disperzija se postiže mehaničkim i kemijskim putem:

    • • Mehanički: miješanje s visokim smičnim silama (mikseri, mlinski agregati, ultrazuk). Miješanje žlicom ili lopaticom nije dovoljno za razbijanje aglomerata.
    • • Kemijski: upotreba dispergirnih sredstava (dispergatora) i surfaktanata koji se adsorbiraju na površinu čestice i sprječavaju njezino ponovno lijepljenje za susjedne čestice.

    5. Zašto tekući kolorant radi bolje od pigmenta u prahu

    Click for enlarged picture

    Tekući koloranti nisu samo pigment otopljen u vodi. To su gotovi sustavi koji sadrže: Pigment — već dispergiran do razine pojedinačnih čestica ili vrlo malih klastera Dispergatore i surfaktante — koji drže čestice razdvojenima i sprječavaju ponovnu aglomeraciju Tekući medij — koji omogućuje da se pigment ravnomjerno rasporedi kroz materijal koji se boji još prije nego što taj materijal počne vezati ili sušiti Kada se tekući kolorant doda u vodu za miješanje (npr. kod gipsa, betona, žbuke), pigment je već u idealnom stanju disperzije. Svakom dijelu smjese ravnomjerno se isporučuje ista količina pigmenta. Efekt boje je stoga mnogo intenzivniji nego kod suho miješanog pigmenta — uz znatno manju ukupnu količinu pigmenta. Ista logika vrijedi za boje i lakove: pigmentne paste i disperzirani pigmenti daju bolju pokrivnost i ravnomjernost boje od pigmenata koji nisu prošli proces disperzije.

    6. Praktična primjena — primjer gipsa

    Gips je zahvalan primjer jer ilustrira sve navedene principe odjednom. Budući da ima nizak indeks refrakcije (~1,52), nije pravi bijeli pigment — u smjesi s vezivom ne pruža otpor bojanju. To znači da mala količina crnog pigmenta može lako i ravnomjerno obojiti gipsanu masu. Zašto se onda mnogima događa da moraju dodati veliki udio pigmenta u odnosu na masu gipsa? Jer pigment miješaju u obliku praha direktno u prah gipsa. Aglomerati pigmenta (posebno Fe₃O₄ ili carbon black) ostaju netaknuti, raspodjela je neujednačena, i rezultat je razočaravajući. Zaključak "treba više" je pogrešan — treba bolje.

    Ispravni postupak:

    Click for enlarged picture

    Kolorant (ili pigment dispergiran u vodi) dodati u vodu za miješanje Dobro promiješati vodu s kolorantom Tek tada dodati gips i miješati do homogene smjese Na taj način pigment bude raspoređen kroz cijelu masu još prije nego gips počne vezati. Rezultat je ravnomjerna, intenzivna boja uz višestruko manju količinu pigmenta nego pri suhom miješanju. Za one koji nemaju pristup profesionalnim kolorantima, dobra alternativa su tekući pigmentni dodaci dostupni u trgovinama građevinskih boja — najčešće u obliku malih bočica namijenjenih nijansiranju zidnih boja. Radi se o istom principu: pigment je već dispergiran u tekućem mediju s aditivima koji sprječavaju aglomeraciju. Dodani u vodu za miješanje, daju ravnomjerniji rezultat od pigmenta u prahu uz znatno manju količinu.

    Zaključak

    Intenzitet i ravnomjernost boje u nekoj masi ne ovise samo o količini pigmenta — ovise o tome koliko je taj pigment dobro dispergiran. Prah pigmenta miješan u prah drugog materijala gotovo uvijek daje lošije rezultate od pigmenta koji je prethodno dispergiran u tekućem mediju, uz prisustvo dispergirnih sredstava. Kada se susretnete s problemom "pigment ne boji dovoljno", vrijedi si postaviti pitanje: nije li problem u načinu na koji je dodan — a ne u količini.

    " ["created"]=> string(19) "2026-05-04 12:54:47" ["modified"]=> string(19) "2026-05-04 20:10:17" } ["Member"]=> array(10) { ["id"]=> string(3) "108" ["group_id"]=> string(1) "2" ["first_name"]=> string(5) "Dunja" ["last_name"]=> string(6) "Singer" ["first_name_mask"]=> string(5) "dunja" ["last_name_mask"]=> string(6) "singer" ["username"]=> string(5) "Dunja" ["password"]=> string(40) "772414a5d6b32309f32f46e9009f1e550809c62d" ["born"]=> string(19) "2006-01-01 00:00:00" ["created"]=> NULL } }
    Dunja Singer, 4th May 2026
  • We visited: Warhammer World – pt.3
              array(2) {
      ["Article"]=>
      array(10) {
        ["id"]=>
        string(3) "505"
        ["member_id"]=>
        string(3) "106"
        ["title_eng"]=>
        string(36) "We visited: Warhammer World – pt.3"
        ["title_hrv"]=>
        string(40) "Posjetili smo: Warhammer World – dio 3"
        ["mask_eng"]=>
        string(30) "we_visited_warhammer_world_pt3"
        ["mask_hrv"]=>
        string(35) "posjetili_smo_warhammer_world_dio_3"
        ["content_eng"]=>
        string(10061) "

    Click for enlarged picture

    For any Warhammer hobbyist, a visit to Warhammer World in Nottingham is a pilgrimage of sorts. It is the epicenter of the entire Games Workshop culture - a combination of global corporate headquarters, visitor center, exhibition space, gaming hall, specialty store and themed bar, all gathered in one location. It should also be taken into account that the large gaming hall hosts Grand Tournaments for all games published by Games Workshop, and since our Ivan found himself in WHW on 18.4.2026. there was a WH40k tournament on the schedule, so the experience of the exhibition, Bugman Bar, WHW store, workshops, and gaming hall was also enhanced by the grand tournament that took place that day. This series follows his adventures…

    2.5. Exhibition Centre

    The Exhibition Centre is the central attraction of Warhammer World and the only part of the complex that requires an entrance fee. It consists of four main areas, which together represent the largest collection of painted Warhammer miniatures in the world.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    The lineup includes: • Classic figurines, books and dioramas from the past thirty years of the hobby, in regularly rotating exhibitions.

    • Thousands of expertly painted figurines, the work of the renowned 'Eavy Metal team and Army/Battlefield Painter, as seen on codex covers and in White Dwarf.

    • Over 25 purpose-built dioramas with more than 20,000 models, plus numerous smaller vignettes.

    • "The Battle for Angelus Prime" - the largest exhibition board that Games Workshop has ever created, on which, according to information from the exhibition, an assassin is hidden that visitors can try to find.

    • Regularly changing Guest Displays - works by talented painters from the wider Warhammer community.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    The 'Eavy Metal team consists of 6 members who paint figures and dioramas full time, and the whole exhibition is terribly fascinating because the figures are painted to the highest standard, and they are quite large.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    3. General Impressions and Recommendations

    It is recommended that you set aside a whole day for the trip because visiting the WHW itself takes 4-5 hours with activities. If you are flying from Zagreb, RyanAir has cheap tickets, but it flies to Stansted so you need to go from London, a direct line is not a good idea. RyanAir is quite cheap, 20 to 30 GBP per person per way. From London, there are two options that are the fastest, and that is FlixBus for 5 GBP per person per way, and the national rail which is about 50 GBP per person per way. The bus from London stops at the first station in the south of Nottingham, from which there are a couple of stops by tram to WHW. From the center, there are several ways to get to the WHW itself, from walking along the canal for 20 minutes, to the bus and tram. If you want to play, you have to book a table, and if the tournament is in progress, you also have to pay an entry fee to play in the tournament.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    All in all, a great recommendation for a visit to Warhammer World itself, which is a kind of pilgrimage for every miniaturist. The employees are extremely friendly and informative, there is a lot of content, there is something to see. With the note that in WHW itself you can buy explosives, but also do activities like in other official Warhammer stores, such as the first figures, assembling and painting, collecting figures of the month, buying White Dwarf, Combat Patrol, or starting the Battle Honors program. Definitely a warm recommendation.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    You can find more photos on our social networks.

    " ["content_hrv"]=> string(9998) "

    Click for enlarged picture

    Za svakog hobista koji se bavi Warhammerom, posjet Warhammer Worldu u Nottinghamu predstavlja svojevrsno hodočašće. Riječ je o središnjem mjestu cjelokupne Games Workshop kulture - kombinaciji globalnog korporativnog sjedišta, posjetiteljskog centra, izložbenog prostora, igračke dvorane, specijalizirane trgovine i tematskog bara, sve okupljeno na jednoj lokaciji. Također treba uzeti u obzir da se u velikoj igraćoj dvorani održavaju Grand Turniri za sve igre koje izdaje Games Workshop, a budući da se naš Ivan našao u WHW 18.4.2026. na rasporedu je bio WH40k turnir, pa je samom doživljaju izložbe, Bugman Bara, WHW dućana, radionica, i igraće hale doprinio i veliki turnir koji se odvijao taj dan. Ovaj serijal prati njegove dogodovštine…

    2.5. Exhibition Centre (Izložbeni centar)

    Exhibition Centre je središnja atrakcija Warhammer Worlda i jedini dio kompleksa za koji se plaća ulaznica. Sastoji se od četiri glavna područja, koja zajedno predstavljaju najveću zbirku oslikanih Warhammer figurica na svijetu.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Postav uključuje: • Klasične figurice, knjige i diorame iz posljednjih trideset godina hobbyja, u redovno rotirajućim izložbama.

    • Tisuće ekspertno oslikanih figurica, rad renomiranog 'Eavy Metal tima i Army/Battlefield Paintera, kakve se viđaju na koricama codexa i u White Dwarfu.

    • Preko 25 namjenski izrađenih diorama s više od 20.000 modela, plus brojne manje vinjete.

    • "The Battle for Angelus Prime" - najveću izložbenu ploču koju je Games Workshop ikada izradio, na kojoj je, prema podatku iz izložbe, skriven jedan attentat (assassin) kojeg posjetitelji mogu pokušati pronaći.

    • Redovito izmjenjive Guest Displays - radove talentiranih slikara iz šire Warhammer zajednice.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    'Eavy Metal tim se sastoji od 6 članova koji full time farbaju figure i diorame, i cijela izložba je užasno fascinantna jer su figure obojane na najvišem standardu, a i poprilično su velike.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    3. Opći dojmovi i preporuke

    Preprouka je da za izlet izdvojite cijeli dan jer je z posjet samom WHW potrebno sigurno 4-5 sati sa aktivnostima. Ukoliko letite iz Zagreba RyanAir ima jeftine karte, ali leti na Stantsted pa je potrebno ići iz Londona, direktna linija nije neka sreća. RyanAir je poprilično jeftin, 20 do 30 GBP po osobi po smjeru. Iz Londona postoje dvije opcije koje su najbrže, a to je FlixBus za 5 GBP po osobi po smjeru, i nacionalna željeznica koja je cca 50 GBP po osobi po smjeru. Bus iz Londona staje na prvoj stanici na jugu Nottinghama, s koje ima par stanica tramvajem do WHW. Iz centra ima više načina da doći do samog WHW, pješke uz kanal 20 minuta hoda, pa do autobusa i tramvaja. Ukoliko želite igrati morate rezervirati stol, a ako je turnir u tijeku i platiti upad za igranje na turniru.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Sve u svemu velika preporuka za posjet samom Warhammer Worldu, koji je za svakog minijaturista određena vrsta hodočašća. Djelatnici su izrazito ljubazni i informativni, sadržaja je izuzetno puno, ima se kaj vidjeti. Uz napomenu da je u samom WHW-u mogu kupiti ekspluzive, ali i odraditi aktivnosti kao i u ostalim službenim Warhammer trgovinama, poput prvih figura, slaganja i farbanja, skupljanja figura mjeseca, kupnje Wite Dwarfa, Combat patrolea, ili početak Battle Honors programa. Svakako topla preporuka.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Više fotografija možete naći na našim socijalnim mrežama.

    " ["created"]=> string(19) "2026-05-04 12:34:13" ["modified"]=> string(19) "2026-05-04 12:34:13" } ["Member"]=> array(10) { ["id"]=> string(3) "106" ["group_id"]=> string(1) "2" ["first_name"]=> string(4) "Ivan" ["last_name"]=> string(5) "Vedak" ["first_name_mask"]=> string(4) "ivan" ["last_name_mask"]=> string(5) "vedak" ["username"]=> string(10) "djrofellos" ["password"]=> string(40) "da5a4d9105d666439cd393d7a22997badd8203f8" ["born"]=> string(19) "2006-01-01 00:00:00" ["created"]=> NULL } }
    Ivan Vedak, 4th May 2026
  • We visited: Warhammer World – pt.2
              array(2) {
      ["Article"]=>
      array(10) {
        ["id"]=>
        string(3) "504"
        ["member_id"]=>
        string(3) "106"
        ["title_eng"]=>
        string(36) "We visited: Warhammer World – pt.2"
        ["title_hrv"]=>
        string(40) "Posjetili smo: Warhammer World – dio 2"
        ["mask_eng"]=>
        string(30) "we_visited_warhammer_world_pt2"
        ["mask_hrv"]=>
        string(35) "posjetili_smo_warhammer_world_dio_2"
        ["content_eng"]=>
        string(13718) "

    Click for enlarged picture

    For any Warhammer hobbyist, a visit to Warhammer World in Nottingham is a pilgrimage of sorts. It is the epicenter of the entire Games Workshop culture - a combination of global corporate headquarters, visitor center, exhibition space, gaming hall, specialty store and themed bar, all gathered in one location. It should also be taken into account that the large gaming hall hosts Grand Tournaments for all games published by Games Workshop, and since our Ivan found himself in WHW on 18.4.2026. there was a WH40k tournament on the schedule, so the experience of the exhibition, Bugman Bar, WHW store, workshops, and gaming hall was also enhanced by the grand tournament that took place that day. This series follows his adventures…

    Click for enlarged picture

    2. Warhammer World

    2.1. General Info

    Warhammer World first opened its doors to the public in 1999. Over the years, it has been expanded and renovated several times, and today it functions as Games Workshop's global visitor center - a place where collectors, gamers, painters and fans from all over the world gather. The location is at Willow Road, Lenton, Nottingham NG7 2WS, and the complex itself shares space with Games Workshop's main headquarters.

    Click for enlarged picture

    It is important to note right away: entry to Warhammer World, the retail store, the Events Hall and Bugman's Bar is free. The only part of the complex that charges an entrance fee is the Exhibition Centre, which costs around GBP 8.50 (approx. EUR 9.80) for an adult. Opening hours are generally 10:00 - 18:00, with extended opening hours on Thursdays and Fridays (until 22:00) and Saturdays (until 20:00). The complex itself consists of four main parts.

    2.2. Bugman's Bar

    Bugman's Bar is a themed bar and restaurant named after Joseph Bugman, the famous dwarven brewer from the Warhammer: The Old World setting. The interior is consistently designed in the style of a dwarven fortress - stone elements, heavy wood, an anvil by the hearth, an Orc head mounted on the wall, and consistently themed lighting. It's a real "in-universe" experience that goes beyond the average shopping theme.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    The food and drink offer is designed in the style of an English pub, with thematic names of dishes. The bar is a popular place to rest between games, socialize with other players and meet friends who gather in Warhammer World from different parts of the world. Food is served from morning until 18:00, while the bar is also open after that.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    They have their own beers and spirits named after names from Games Workshop's own lore, and they also have an exclusive, which is a chicken drumstick eating contest with jalapeño sauce, and if you succeed in that, you get a title and a little pin badge. At the time we visited, it was unavailable due to a menu change, so that's another reason for us to visit again.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    2.3. Retail Store

    The Warhammer World store is significantly larger than the standard Warhammer stores found in European cities. The space is divided into two main units: one covers the complete range of Games Workshop figurines (Warhammer 40,000, Age of Sigmar, Middle-earth, Horus Heresy), while the other is dedicated to Forge World and its resin products. Special value is provided by the so-called "Warhammer World Exclusives" - models that can be purchased exclusively at this location or via their online shop. The offer also includes web-exclusive and event-exclusive models and limited editions that are sold out elsewhere. The store also has a Black Library department with books, as well as a corner for Warhammer Underworlds and other specialist products.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    In the shop itself there is a wall with all the available Warhammer colors, as they are called after the last recent rebrand. Next to that wall there is a table with about 10 seats where, with guidance, they can be assembled and painted before the figures. These are usually figures of the month, two from each game. In the store itself I bought Space Marine HQ Command tanks, Space Marine HQ Command Tanks are a Warhammer World exclusive boxed set that contains two special vehicle variants - Land Raider Excelsior and Rhino Primaris - intended for a commanding role within the Space Marine Chapter. The set comes with an exclusive Command sprue and transfer sheet. Slightly tweaked two vehicles, with a different box, and will fit perfectly into the Ultramarine army I started.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    2.4. Events Hall

    The Events Hall is the heart of the social life of the Warhammer World. It is a large hall themed as the Empire castle (The Empire from the Warhammer Fantasy / The Old World setting), with an impressive number of gaming tables. Some of the tables are standard tables equipped with excellently painted Age of Sigmar and Warhammer 40k terrain, while others are special, purpose-built tables for certain scenarios - e.g. a large table for Apocalypse games, themed tables for special campaigns, Necromunda areas and the like. The hall hosts many official Games Workshop events: competitive tournaments such as Throne of Skulls, narrative events, Forge World and Black Library Open Days, and various workshops. When there are no official events, visitors can reserve a table and play a game for free with prior notice.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    On the Saturday when we visited, the hall itself was the venue for the Warhammer 40k Grand Tournament, so that added to the excitement because the armies themselves were beautifully decorated, and the tournament was also very exciting.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    You can find more photos on our social networks.

    " ["content_hrv"]=> string(13784) "

    Click for enlarged picture

    Za svakog hobista koji se bavi Warhammerom, posjet Warhammer Worldu u Nottinghamu predstavlja svojevrsno hodočašće. Riječ je o središnjem mjestu cjelokupne Games Workshop kulture - kombinaciji globalnog korporativnog sjedišta, posjetiteljskog centra, izložbenog prostora, igračke dvorane, specijalizirane trgovine i tematskog bara, sve okupljeno na jednoj lokaciji. Također treba uzeti u obzir da se u velikoj igraćoj dvorani održavaju Grand Turniri za sve igre koje izdaje Games Workshop, a budući da se naš Ivan našao u WHW 18.4.2026. na rasporedu je bio WH40k turnir, pa je samom doživljaju izložbe, Bugman Bara, WHW dućana, radionica, i igraće hale doprinio i veliki turnir koji se odvijao taj dan. Ovaj serijal prati njegove dogodovštine…

    Click for enlarged picture

    2. Warhammer World

    2.1. Općenito

    Warhammer World javnosti je prvi put otvorio vrata 1999. godine. Kroz godine je više puta proširivan i renoviran, a danas funkcionira kao globalni posjetiteljski centar Games Workshopa - mjesto na kojem se okupljaju kolekcionari, igrači, slikari i obožavatelji iz cijelog svijeta. Lokacija je na adresi Willow Road, Lenton, Nottingham NG7 2WS, a sam kompleks dijeli prostor s glavnim sjedištem Games Workshopa.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Važno je odmah napomenuti: ulaz u Warhammer World, retail trgovinu, Events Hall i Bugman's Bar je besplatan. Jedini dio kompleksa za koji se naplaćuje ulaznica je Exhibition Centre, a cijena je oko 8,50 GBP (cca. 9,80 EUR) za odraslu osobu. Radno vrijeme je u pravilu 10:00 - 18:00, uz produženo radno vrijeme četvrtkom i petkom (do 22:00) te subotom (do 20:00). Sam kompleks sastoji se od četiri glavne cjeline.

    2.2. Bugman's Bar

    Bugman's Bar tematski je bar i restoran nazvan po Josephu Bugmanu, slavnom patuljskom pivaru iz Warhammer: The Old World setting-a. Interijer je dosljedno izveden u stilu patuljaste utvrde - kameni elementi, teško drvo, nakovanj uz ognjište, glava Orka montirana na zidu, te dosljedno tematizirana rasvjeta. Pravi je "in-universe" doživljaj koji nadilazi prosječnu trgovačku tematizaciju.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Ponuda hrane i pića osmišljena je u stilu engleskog pub-a, s tematskim nazivima jela. Bar je popularno mjesto za odmor između partija, druženje s drugim igračima i susrete s prijateljima koji se u Warhammer Worldu okupljaju iz raznih dijelova svijeta. Hrana se poslužuje od jutarnjih sati do 18:00, dok bar radi i nakon toga.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Imaju svoje pive i žestice koje su nazvane po imenima iz samog lorea igara Games Worskopa, a također imaju eksluzivu, a to je natjecanje u jedenju pilećih bataka s jalapenjo umakom, pa ukoliko uspiješ u tome dobije titulu i mali pin bedž. U trenutku kada smo ih mi posjetili nije bilo dostupno zbog promjene menija, pa nam je to još jedan razlog za ponovni posjet.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    2.3. Retail Store (Trgovina)

    Trgovina Warhammer Worlda znatno je veća od standardnih Warhammer trgovina koje se mogu naći u europskim gradovima. Prostor je podijeljen u dvije glavne cjeline: jedna pokriva kompletan asortiman Games Workshop figurica (Warhammer 40,000, Age of Sigmar, Middle-earth, Horus Heresy), dok je druga posvećena Forge Worldu i njegovim resin proizvodima. Posebnu vrijednost daju takozvani "Warhammer World Exclusives" - modeli koji se mogu kupiti isključivo na ovoj lokaciji ili putem njihovog online shopa. U ponudi su također web-ekskluzive i event-ekskluzive modeli te limitirana izdanja koja su drugdje rasprodana. U sklopu trgovine nalazi se i Black Library odjel s knjigama, te kutak za Warhammer Underworlds i ostale specijalističke proizvode.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    U samom dućanu se nalazi zid sa svim dostupnim Warhammer bojama, kako se nazivaju nakon zadnjeg nedavnog rebranda. Pored tog zida nalaze se I stol sa 10ak mjesta gdje uz vodstvo se mogu sastaviti i obojati pre figure. Obično su to figure mjeseca, po dvije iz svake igre. U samom dućanu sam kupio Space Marine HQ Command tanks, Space Marine HQ Command Tanks su Warhammer World ekskluzivni boxed set koji sadrži dva specijalna varijanta vozila - Land Raider Excelsior i Rhino Primaris - namijenjena zapovjednoj ulozi unutar Space Marine Chaptera. Set dolazi s ekskluzivnim Command sprueom i transfer sheetom. Malo nakinđurena dva vozila, sa drugačijom kutijom, a odlično će se uklapati u Ultramarine vojsku koju sam startao.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    2.4. Events Hall (Dvorana za događanja)

    Events Hall predstavlja srž društvenog života Warhammer Worlda. Riječ je o velikoj dvorani tematiziranoj kao dvorac Imperija (The Empire iz Warhammer Fantasy / The Old World setting-a), s impresivnim brojem igraćih stolova. Dio stolova su standardni stolovi opremljeni odlično oslikanim Age of Sigmar i Warhammer 40k terenom, dok su drugi posebni, namjenski izrađeni stolovi za određene scenarije - npr. veliki stol za Apocalypse igre, tematski stolovi za posebne kampanje, površine Necromunde i slično. Dvorana je domaćin mnogim službenim Games Workshop događanjima: kompetitivnim turnirima poput Throne of Skulls, narativnim eventima, Forge World i Black Library Open Days, te različitim radionicama. Kada nema službenih događanja, posjetitelji uz prethodnu najavu mogu rezervirati stol i besplatno odigrati partiju.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    U subotu kada smo mi bili u posjeti je sama dvorana bilo mjesto održavanja Grand Torunamenta za Warhammer 40k pa je to dalo dodatnu zaniljivost jer su i same vojske bile dodatno lijepo uređenje, a i na turniru je bilo napeto.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Više fotografija možete naći na našim socijalnim mrežama.

    " ["created"]=> string(19) "2026-05-04 12:21:08" ["modified"]=> string(19) "2026-05-04 12:21:08" } ["Member"]=> array(10) { ["id"]=> string(3) "106" ["group_id"]=> string(1) "2" ["first_name"]=> string(4) "Ivan" ["last_name"]=> string(5) "Vedak" ["first_name_mask"]=> string(4) "ivan" ["last_name_mask"]=> string(5) "vedak" ["username"]=> string(10) "djrofellos" ["password"]=> string(40) "da5a4d9105d666439cd393d7a22997badd8203f8" ["born"]=> string(19) "2006-01-01 00:00:00" ["created"]=> NULL } }
    Ivan Vedak, 4th May 2026
  • We visited: Warhammer World - pt.1
              array(2) {
      ["Article"]=>
      array(10) {
        ["id"]=>
        string(3) "503"
        ["member_id"]=>
        string(3) "106"
        ["title_eng"]=>
        string(34) "We visited: Warhammer World - pt.1"
        ["title_hrv"]=>
        string(40) "Posjetili smo: Warhammer World – dio 1"
        ["mask_eng"]=>
        string(32) "we_visited_warhammer_world_-_pt1"
        ["mask_hrv"]=>
        string(35) "posjetili_smo_warhammer_world_dio_1"
        ["content_eng"]=>
        string(7283) "

    Click for enlarged picture

    For any Warhammer hobbyist, a visit to Warhammer World in Nottingham is a pilgrimage of sorts. It is the epicenter of the entire Games Workshop culture - a combination of global corporate headquarters, visitor center, exhibition space, gaming hall, specialty store and themed bar, all gathered in one location. It should also be taken into account that the large gaming hall hosts Grand Tournaments for all games published by Games Workshop, and since our Ivan found himself in WHW on 18.4.2026. there was a WH40k tournament on the schedule, so the experience of the exhibition, Bugman Bar, WHW store, workshops, and gaming hall was also enhanced by the grand tournament that took place that day. This series follows his adventures…

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    1. Historical Context

    1.1. The Founding of Games Workshop

    Games Workshop was founded in 1975 in London, at 15 Bolingbroke Road. The founders were John Peake, Ian Livingstone and Steve Jackson (not to be confused with the American game designer of the same name). Initially, the company was not at all related to miniatures - they produced wooden boards for traditional games such as backgammon, manchala, mill and go. The same year, the Owl and Weasel newsletter was launched, which would later, in June 1977, evolve into the now legendary White Dwarf magazine. During the second half of the 1970s, Games Workshop became the main European distributor of the American role-playing game Dungeons & Dragons, and by the end of the decade it had also started publishing its own titles. A key turning point came in 1978/1979, when Games Workshop financed the establishment of Citadel Miniatures in Newark-on-Trent (Nottinghamshire). Citadel produced metal figurines used in GW's games, and the "Citadel" brand remains synonymous with Games Workshop miniatures to this day.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    1.2. The Move to Nottingham and "Lead Belt"

    The move of Games Workshop from London to Nottingham was not a one-off, but a gradual process linked to the person of Bryan Ansell. Ansell became director of Games Workshop in 1985, bought the company from Jackson and Livingstone in the late 1980s, and refocused it from role-playing games to tabletop strategy products. It was he who physically moved the company from London to Nottinghamshire to bring it closer to Citadel Miniatures. The final consolidation took place in October 1997, when all of Games Workshop's UK operations were moved to their current headquarters in Lenton, a suburb of Nottingham. This location still houses the corporate headquarters, design studio, White Dwarf magazine editorial office, European distribution centre and online sales centre. The concentration of miniatures manufacturers in the wider Nottinghamshire area has led to the area now being referred to in hobby circles as the "Lead Belt". Most of the companies that make up that belt today - Warlord Games, Mantic Games, Perry Miniatures, Wargames Foundry and others - were founded by former Games Workshop employees, which speaks of an ecosystem that has developed around one company for decades.

    Click for enlarged picture

    1.3. Warhammer as a product

    Warhammer Fantasy Battle was first published in 1983 by Bryan Ansell, Rick Priestley and Richard Halliwell. The game literally saved Citadel from stagnation and launched the expansion of ranges of fantasy miniatures.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Warhammer 40,000 (40k) was launched in 1987 under the original title Rogue Trader, with Rick Priestley as the main author. Over six generations of rules, the game has become the leading sci-fi wargaming franchise in the world and is now the core product of Games Workshop. The 10th edition of the rules is currently in circulation.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    You can find more photos on our social networks.

    " ["content_hrv"]=> string(7416) "

    Click for enlarged picture

    Za svakog hobista koji se bavi Warhammerom, posjet Warhammer Worldu u Nottinghamu predstavlja svojevrsno hodočašće. Riječ je o središnjem mjestu cjelokupne Games Workshop kulture - kombinaciji globalnog korporativnog sjedišta, posjetiteljskog centra, izložbenog prostora, igračke dvorane, specijalizirane trgovine i tematskog bara, sve okupljeno na jednoj lokaciji. Također treba uzeti u obzir da se u velikoj igraćoj dvorani održavaju Grand Turniri za sve igre koje izdaje Games Workshop, a budući da se naš Ivan našao u WHW 18.4.2026. na rasporedu je bio WH40k turnir, pa je samom doživljaju izložbe, Bugman Bara, WHW dućana, radionica, i igraće hale doprinio i veliki turnir koji se odvijao taj dan. Ovaj serijal prati njegove dogodovštine…

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    1. Povijesni kontekst

    1.1. Osnutak Games Workshopa

    Games Workshop osnovan je 1975. godine u Londonu, na adresi 15 Bolingbroke Road. Osnivači su bili John Peake, Ian Livingstone i Steve Jackson (ne treba ga miješati s istoimenim američkim game dizajnerom). U početku tvrtka uopće nije bila vezana uz minijature - proizvodili su drvene ploče za tradicionalne igre poput backgammona, manchale, mlina i goa. Iste godine pokrenut je i newsletter Owl and Weasel, koji će kasnije, u lipnju 1977., evoluirati u danas legendarni časopis White Dwarf. Tijekom druge polovice 1970-ih Games Workshop postaje glavni europski distributer američke role-playing igre Dungeons & Dragons, da bi krajem desetljeća počeo izdavati i vlastite naslove. Ključna prekretnica dogodila se 1978./1979. godine, kada Games Workshop financira osnivanje Citadel Miniatures u mjestu Newark-on-Trent (Nottinghamshire). Citadel je proizvodio metalne figurice koje su se koristile u GW-ovim igrama, a brand "Citadel" do danas je ostao sinonim za Games Workshop minijature.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    1.2. Preseljenje u Nottingham i "Lead Belt"

    Preseljenje Games Workshopa iz Londona u Nottingham nije bilo jednokratno, već postupan proces vezan uz osobu Bryana Ansella. Ansell je 1985. godine postao direktor Games Workshopa, otkupio je tvrtku od Jacksona i Livingstonea krajem 1980-ih, te je preusmjerio s role-playing igara prema proizvodima za stolne strateške igre. Upravo on je tvrtku fizički preselio iz Londona u Nottinghamshire kako bi je približio Citadel Miniatures. Konačna konsolidacija dogodila se u listopadu 1997. godine, kada su sve britanske operacije Games Workshopa premještene u današnje sjedište u Lentonu, predgrađu Nottinghama. Na toj se lokaciji i danas nalaze korporativno sjedište, dizajn studio, redakcija časopisa White Dwarf, distribucijski centar za Europu te online prodajni centar. Koncentracija proizvođača minijatura u širem području Nottinghamshirea dovela je do toga da se čitav kraj danas u hobi krugovima naziva "Lead Belt" (Olovni pojas). Većina tvrtki koje danas čine taj pojas - Warlord Games, Mantic Games, Perry Miniatures, Wargames Foundry i druge - osnovana je od strane bivših zaposlenika Games Workshopa, što govori o ekosustavu koji se desetljećima razvijao oko jedne tvrtke.

    Click for enlarged picture

    1.3. Warhammer kao proizvod

    Warhammer Fantasy Battle prvi je put objavljen 1983. godine, a autori su Bryan Ansell, Rick Priestley i Richard Halliwell. Igra je doslovno spasila Citadel od stagnacije i pokrenula širenje fantasy linija figurica.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Warhammer 40,000 (40k) lansiran je 1987. godine pod izvornim nazivom Rogue Trader, a glavni autor bio je Rick Priestley. Tijekom šest generacija pravila, igra je postala vodeća sci-fi wargaming franchise na svijetu i danas predstavlja središnji proizvod Games Workshopa. Trenutno je u opticaju 10. izdanje pravila.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Više fotografija možete naći na našim socijalnim mrežama.

    " ["created"]=> string(19) "2026-04-27 11:05:27" ["modified"]=> string(19) "2026-05-04 06:31:25" } ["Member"]=> array(10) { ["id"]=> string(3) "106" ["group_id"]=> string(1) "2" ["first_name"]=> string(4) "Ivan" ["last_name"]=> string(5) "Vedak" ["first_name_mask"]=> string(4) "ivan" ["last_name_mask"]=> string(5) "vedak" ["username"]=> string(10) "djrofellos" ["password"]=> string(40) "da5a4d9105d666439cd393d7a22997badd8203f8" ["born"]=> string(19) "2006-01-01 00:00:00" ["created"]=> NULL } }
    Ivan Vedak, 27th April 2026

All articles

Latest battle-reports

All battle-reports