UMS "Agram" : PIRATE'S COVE GAMING BOARD – pt.1 < Articles < Hobby

PIRATE'S COVE GAMING BOARD – pt.1

Marko Paunović, 22nd August 2020

Over the course of the next two articles, I'll follow the building process of a gaming board for a board game called Pirate's Cove that my club's terrain workshop did a couple of years ago.

About The Game:

Pirate's Cove is a board game originally published in Germany in 2002 by Amigo Spiele. In 2003, Days of Wonder republished it with a new graphic design. During the game, players play pirate ship captains seeking treasure from islands and bragging rights by defeating other pirates in naval combat. The game takes place over 12 turns (months) and the goal is to be the pirate with the most fame. Each player has a ship token and a card showing four aspects of the ship (crew, cannon, sail, and hull). At the beginning of each turn, a card is turned over at each island to reveal the potential booty from plunder. Each island (except Pirate's Cove and Treasure Island) offer various amounts of Fame, Gold, Treasure or Tavern cards.

Captains choose an island to plunder based on the potential rewards of that island and then fight if they show up at the same island. Certain islands offer the opportunity to upgrade an aspect of the ship and the available plunder at each island changes with each turn. A player can use this information to predict where other players' ships will turn up and thus move his ship accordingly to either do battle or avoid it. The bounty of each island is skewed so that some Islands are clearly better choices than others, so it can force you to decide (or bluff) if you think you can take the island should other pirates go after the same bounty. Ships that survive combat then plunder the islands, gain fame, and pay gold to upgrade their ships based on the qualities of the islands. The Legendary Pirate, a black ship token, moves clockwise around the board, forcing captains to steer out of his path unless they think that they can defeat the powerful ship. At Treasure Island, no battle can take place and it is where ships can safely discharge cargo from their ship and bury any plundered treasure (a ship's capacity to hold treasure is based on its hull rating). Burying treasure and money adds to the player's accumulated fame points.

The Design:

After playing a couple of games on the cardboard board provided in the game itself, my mate, Andrija Jurišić, and I decided we were going to make a proper board with little model ships to navigate the islands with. We decided to use a 90 x 90 cm plywood board that was 23mm thick. The first job to do was to draw the map onto the board, making sure that there is plenty of room for the scoring tiles around the entire board. Once we had our basic shape and measurements, we could continue with the design.

Immediately, we agreed to use LEDs inside all (or most) of the small buildings and huts scattered throughout the islands. Having a power source present made us think how cool it would be to have a proper smoking volcano so we started doing some research into various fog machines.

Foggers

The easiest way to obtain a fogger is going to your local pet store and getting a fogger for a terrarium. Apart from that, any DIY store should have a section with lamps. There are some lamps that come with a dish of some sorts and make fog that is then coloured by LEDs. I bought mine on ebay for about 8,00 USD with shipping. It uses a ceramic diaphragm vibrating at an ultrasonic frequency to create water droplets that silently exit the machine in the form of cool fog. They use a piezoelectric transducer to create a high frequency mechanical oscillation in a film of water. This forms an extremely fine mist of droplets about one micron in diameter, that quickly. However, these water droplets will contain any impurities that are in the reservoir, including minerals from hard water (which then forms a difficult-to-remove sticky white dust on nearby objects, in this case our scenery). Any pathogens growing in the stagnant tank will also be dispersed in the air. Therefore, they should be cleaned regularly to prevent bacterial contamination from being spread throughout the air. The amount of minerals and other materials can be greatly reduced by using distilled water, though no water is absolutely pure.

Science behind foggers

As noted earlier, the fogger consists of a piezoelectric ceramic disc which is provided with current through two nickel electrodes. Since the ceramic is piezoelectric, it oscillates in the presence of electric current at ultrasonic frequency (Ultrasonic means that you don't hear the sound waves generated in water).

With the increase of the frequency of oscillation of the plate, the water tries to follow the frequency of oscillation. However, due to its inertia and weight the water fails to match this frequency creating the water wave lags behind the wave of the disc. This creates an area of low pressure between them and this in turn forms a cavity - an occurance known as cavitation. The cavity can be a void or it can be filled with air since there is air dissolved in water and with the formation of low pressure, air moves into the cavity. When this cavity implodes, the imploding jet has a lot of energy. The vibrating disc also causes capillary waves at the surface of water (ripples). The capillary waves keep oscillating up and down due to surface tension and gravity. As the cavity implodes, a crossed capillary wave is formed at the surface. As a result at the crest of the wave, very small droplets of water have enough energy to break off the surface tension and get out of water. As soon as these minute drops of water exit the surface they are absorbed into the air and leave the machine as mist. The size of the aerosols gets smaller with increased frequency.

After deciding what electric and electronic gadgets to use on the board, we could make preliminar sketches of the entire table with the sizes of each individual island, and from there we could extrapolate the sizes not only of the houses/huts but also of the boats and ships. Slowly, our gaming board was begining to take shape. But before starting the work, we still needed to work how big all the electronics would be. For that, we needed to make a short calculation.

The Begining of the Build

With the basics of the electronics given above, I'll continue the practical application of it in the next issue. This article, I'll conclude with basic work done to the board itself. As mentioned, tha basic design was drawn first on the board itself. Then, a large hole for the wires was cut in the middle of the board, as well as a number of smaller ones, carefully distributed around the islands.

Andrija also made model ships out of balsa wood. Ahe first drew the basic outline of the waterline of the ship on a piece of paper. Then he cut it to make a template which he then used to draw the shapes of the ships onto a piece of balsa. Once cut and assembled, the ships were sanded and consequently painted with some basic rigging added.

While Andrija was busy with our armada, I was trying to run the wires to each of the islands. I decided that the wires would go underneath the table and would be fixed to the board using a staplegun.

This ends the begining part of the project. In the next issue, I'll describe how we built the islands, all the houses and the rest of the scenery as well as describe the electric circuits built in the gaming board.

Latest articles

Agram Group Build #7 – Amon Hen, pt.8

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	Agram Group Build is back. For this seventh installment, the team decided to create a gaming board/diorama for Amon Hen. To that end, we fulfilled a childhood dream and acquired the original Forge World Amon Hen terrain (released around 2000) along with the accompanying set of miniatures. This series of articles will document the entire project—from crafting the terrain to assembling and painting the miniatures.

	  

	In this article, we continue our work on the figures. Last time, we prepared the plastic components; now, it is time to pin the metal ones. For this, we need a mini electric drill and some paperclips or pins. Additionally, you will need superglue.

	  

	Select a drill bit about the size of a pin—in our case, 0.8 mm in diameter. Carefully drill holes approximately 2–3 mm deep into the feet, using at least one pin per figure.

	  

	Apply a drop or two of superglue to the pin and push it as deep as possible into the hole. Let it dry, then reattach the head.

	  

	Once we had prepared all the figures in this way, we mounted them onto balsa wood strips. We pushed pins into the balsa, and the figures were ready to be spray-painted black.

	  

	After spraying, the figures are ready for painting.

	  
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	Agram Group Build se vraća. U svojoj sedmoj instalaciji, ekipa je odlučila izraditi igraću tablu / dioramu za Amon Hen. Za tu potrebu, ispunili smo si dječačke sne i nabavili originalni Forge World teren Amon Hena (izašao negdje cca 2000.) sa setom pripadajućih figura. Ova serija članaka pratit će izradu cijelog projekta – kako izrade terena, tako i sastavljanja i bojanja figura.

	  

	Nastavak rada na figurama pratimo u ovom članku. Prošli put smo pripremili plastični dio figura, a sada je na redu piniranje metalnih. Za to nam je potrebna mini električna bušilica i spajalice/špenadle. Osim toga, bit će potrebno i superljepilo.

	  

	Izaberemo svrdlo veličine špenadle. U našem slučaju to je promjer 0,8mm. Pažljivo izbušimo rupe dubine cca 2-3 mm u stopala. Barem jedan pin po figuri.

	  

	Kapnemo kap dvije superljepila na pin i nabijemo ga što dublje u rupu. Pustimo da se osuši i održemo glavu.

	  

	Kada smo tako pripremili sve figure, postavili smo ih na letvice od balze. Pinove smo zabili u balzu i figure su bile spremne za sprejanje u crno.

	  

	Nakon sprejanja, figure su spremne za bojanje.

	  
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Marko Paunović, 3th November 2026

Back to Basics Workshops for kids in Medveščak Library - Autumn 2026

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	This autumn, we once again held our "Back to Basics" miniature painting workshops for children at the Medveščak Library.

	Over the course of three weeks, our youngest participants painted our "Agramers" and learned the ropes of miniature painting.

	A big thank you to the parents for their trust, and to the Children and Youth Department of the Medveščak Library for their support!

	See you next spring!

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	You can find more photos on our social networks!
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	I ove jeseni održali smo Back to Basics radionice bojenja minijatura za najmlađe u Knjižnica Medveščak.

	Kroz tri tjedna naši najmlađi polaznici su bojali naše Agramere i upoznali se sa bojanjem minijatura.

	Veliko hvala roditeljima na povjerenju i Odjelu za djecu i mlade Knjižnice Medveščak na podršci !

	Vidimo se sljedeće godine na proljeće

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	Više fotografija možete pronaći na našim društvenim mrežama!
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Krunoslav Belinić, 30th October 2026

Agram Group Build #7 – Amon Hen, pt.7

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	Agram Group Build is back. For this seventh installment, the team decided to create a gaming board/diorama for Amon Hen. To that end, we fulfilled a childhood dream and acquired the original Forge World Amon Hen terrain (released around 2000) along with the accompanying set of miniatures. This series of articles will document the entire project—from crafting the terrain to assembling and painting the miniatures.

	  

	The first thing we did this week was finish painting the terrain. All that remained were the stone statues and the temple. A light drybrush of grey and white paint was all that was needed, following the layers of washes we had applied the week before.

	  

	  

	Next came the aging process using oil paints. We used several shades of green, as well as black and a beige/white tone. First, we coated the surfaces with Odourless Thinner, then applied a few small dots of each shade, and finally used a dry brush to blend them and remove any excess pigment.

	  

	  

	Meanwhile, the other part of the team continued the work of cleaning the plastic Uruk-hai.

	  

	  

	Next came the pinning of the plastic miniatures. For the quickest results, you will need: pliers, sewing pins, and a lighter.

	  

	First, use a lighter to heat a sewing pin until it is red-hot, then press it into the Uruk-hai's leg. As the metal enters the plastic, the heat causes the plastic to expand, allowing the pin to slide in easily. However, as it enters, it also cools down; the plastic then contracts, holding the pin firmly in place. You do not need any glue. Once you have inserted the pins, use pliers to snip off the ends—the parts with the heads.

	  

	

	The final task for this week was to remove the tabs from the metal figures and prepare them for pinning. Unfortunately, the previous method cannot be applied to metal figures, so we will have to use an electric drill—but more on that next time.

	  

	In the end, we arranged the trees on the painted base so we could admire them a bit.

	  

	  
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	Prvu stvar koju smo ovaj tjedan napravili je dovršavanje bojanja terena. Ono što je ostalo jest kameni kipovi i hram. Lagani drybrush sive i bijele boje je bilo sve što je bilo potrebno nakon slojeva washeva koje smo odradili tjedan ranije.

	  

	  

	Zatim je uslijedilo dodavanje starenja uljnim bojama. Koristili smo nekoliko zelenih, crnu i bež/bijelu nijansu. Prvo smo površine prekrili Odourless Thinnerom, zatim nanijeli po nekoliko točkica svih nijansi, i onda suhim kistom pomiješali i maknuli višak pigmenta.

	  

	  

	Za to vrijeme, drugi dio ekipe je nastavio posao na čišćenju plastičnih Uruk Haia.

	  

	  

	Zatim je uslijedilo piniranje plastičnih minijatura. Za najbrže rezultate potrebni su vam: kliješta, špenadle i upaljač.

	  

	Prvo upaljačem zagrijete špenadlu do usijanja, zatim ju utisnete Uruk Haiju u nogu. Kako metal ulazi u plastiku, toplina širi plastiku tako da pin može lagano ući. Međutim, kako ulazi tako se i hladi pa se plastika skuplja i drži pin na mjestu. Nikakvo ljepilo vam nije potrebno. Kad ste utisnuli špenadle, vrhove s glavom odrežite kliještima.

	  

	

	Zadnji zadatak za ovaj tjedan bio je maknuti tabove sa metalnih figura i pripremiti ih za piniranje. Prethodna metoda na žalost nije primjenjiva na metalnim figurama pa ćemo morati koristiti električnu bušilicu, ali o tome više sljedeći put.

	  

	Na kraju smo posložili drveće na obojanu bazu da se malo divimo.

	  

	  
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Krunoslav Belinić, 30th October 2026

Agram Group Build #7 – Amon Hen, pt.6

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	Agram Group Build is back. For this seventh installment, the team decided to create a gaming board/diorama for Amon Hen. To that end, we fulfilled a childhood dream and acquired the original Forge World Amon Hen terrain (released around 2000) along with the accompanying set of miniatures. This series of articles will document the entire project—from crafting the terrain to assembling and painting the miniatures.

	

	As we announced, this time we are starting with the painting process. The first step was applying a black primer (via spray), followed by white to highlight the details.

	  

	  

	Next came the painting of the terrain. As always, we used a palette of brown and gray paints from the Pebeo Deco brand. These are acrylic paints—relatively affordable and quite thick—which allow for easy coverage or a quick drybrush, should the need arise. We started with the brown tones, beginning with the darker shades and finishing with the lighter ones.

	  

	  

	  

	Next, we highlighted the stone surfaces with black paint, then lightened them using shades of gray, ranging from darker to lighter tones. We left the temple and the statues covered only with the spray paints applied in the first step.

	  

	  

	Once the base was finished, we turned our attention to the temple and the statues. The first layer of paint we applied over the black-and-white undercoat consisted of washes. We took 5 or 6 different shades and randomly dabbed them across all the surfaces.

	  

	  

	Since our time was running out, we decided to stop painting there and give the washes a chance to dry thoroughly. The final step for the board was applying a thick layer of PVA glue to the corner where the river would be. We did this to smooth out the surface, as we had decided to simply paint the river rather than adding any "depth."

	  

	Meanwhile, Kruno set to work preparing the newly arrived Uruk-hai figures. He removed the first half of the figures from the sprue and cleaned off the flash.

	  

	  

	He organized them and removed the tabs for the bases. Next time, he will continue with the second half.

	  

	  
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	Agram Group Build se vraća. U svojoj sedmoj instalaciji, ekipa je odlučila izraditi igraću tablu / dioramu za Amon Hen. Za tu potrebu, ispunili smo si dječačke sne i nabavili originalni Forge World teren Amon Hena (izašao negdje cca 2000.) sa setom pripadajućih figura. Ova serija članaka pratit će izradu cijelog projekta – kako izrade terena, tako i sastavljanja i bojanja figura.

	  

	Kao što smo najavili, ovaj put započinjemo sa bojanjem. Prvi korak bio je nanošenje crne temeljne boje (sprejem) i onda bijele da istakne detalje.

	  

	  

	Zatim je uslijedilo bojanje terena. Kao i uvijek, koristimo paletu smeđih i sivih boja marke Pebeo Deco. To su akrilne boje, relativno pristupačne cijenom, a dosta guste tako da omogućava lagano prekrivanje ili brzi drybrush ako nam zatreba. Prvo smo odradili smeđe nijanse, krenuvši prvo od tamnijih i završivši sa svjetlijim nijansama.

	  

	  

	  

	Zatim smo kamene plohe istaknuli crnom bojom i onda posvjetljavali sivim nijansama od tamnijih do svijetlijih. Hram i kipove smo ostavili prekrivene samo sprejevima iz prvog koraka.

	  

	  

	Kad je baza bila gotova, okrenuli smo se hramu i kipovima. Prvi sloj boje koje smo stavili na crno-bijeli undercoat bili su washevi. Uzeli smo 5, 6 nijansi i nasumično tapkali po svim plohama.

	  

	  

	S obzirom da nam se termin bližio kraju, tu smo odlučili stati sa bojanjem i dati washevima priliku da se pošteno osuše. Zadnji korak na tabli bilo je dodavanje debelog sloja PVA ljepila na kut u kojem će biti rijeka. To smo napravili da izgladimo površinu s obzirom da smo odlučili da rijeku samo obojamo, bez dodavanja „dubine“.

	  

	Za to vrijeme, Kruno se bacio na pripremu novopridošlih figura Uruk Haia. Prvu polovicu figura je maknuo sa okvira (sprue) te očistio srhove.

	  

	  

	Složio ih je i maknuo tabove za baze. Sljedeći put nastavlja s drugom polovicom.

	  

	  
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Marko Paunović, 22nd October 2026

Lizardmen Sauropod – part 1

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	While printing a sauropod model—which I intended to use for a kitbash of a Lizardmen Bastiladon—one of the printed torsos ended up with defects in the legs. Around the same time, I was playing Pokémon Crystal; having fallen in love with some of the concepts in that game, I decided to merge the two worlds into one.

	  

	Taking the Pokémon Meganium as a starting concept, I wanted to create a dinosaur on a large base emerging from a lake, surrounded by skinks that are grooming it.

	  

	To achieve this, I decided to cut off the lower part of the torso—excluding the legs—position the model so it "lies" on the base, place a couple of Skinks around it, and pour resin over the base to create the effect of lake water.

	  

	The first step was to create flower petals around the dinosaur's neck. I used slightly thicker paper, cut into the shape of petals. Afterward, I glued them together with super glue to form a flower shape. I coated each petal with wood glue—applying about 6 layers—to set them into a form that would be both flexible and sturdy enough for painting. I applied each coat using a small brush, with outward strokes, to create texture on the surfaces of the petals.

	I glued the dinosaur's torso to the base using superglue and filled the gaps.

	  

	Preparation for painting was the easier part of the job; the primer used was a light-grey spray, followed by a single coat of a purple 'contrast' paint. After that, I dry-brushed the entire model with white. This created a strange, sickly base for the subsequent layers of green. This concludes the first part of the tutorial; in the second part, I will continue with painting, casting resin, and adding the final details to the model.

	  
"
    ["content_hrv"]=>
    string(3240) "
	Prilikom printa modela sauropoda kojeg sam mislio koristiti za kitbash Lizardmen modela bastiladona, ostao je jedan printani model trupa sa greškama u nogama. U slično vrijeme sam igrao Pokemon Crystal i obožavajući neke od koncepata u toj igri, odlučio sam spojiti dva svijeta u jedan.

	  

	Uzevši pokemona Meganium-a kao početni koncept, želio sam napraviti dinosaura na velikoj bazi koji izranja iz jezera, okruženog skinkovima koji ga timare.

	  

	Da bih to izveo, odlučio sam odrezati donji dio trupa bez nogu, postaviti model da "leži" na bazi, postaviti par skinkova oko njega i preliti bazu sa rezinom kako bih stvorio efekt jezerske vode.

	  

	Prvi korak je bio napraviti latice cvijeta oko vrata dinosura. Koristio sam malo deblji papir, izrezan u oblik latice. Nakon toga sam ih zalijepio super ljepilom u oblik cvijeta. Premazao sam svaki list drvofixom u cca 6 slojeva, kako bih učvrstio listove u formu u kojoj će biti elastični i čvrsti za bojanje. Sve premaze sam radio s manjim kistom potezima prema van, kako bih stvorio teksturu na stranicama latica.

	Trup dinosaura sam zalijepio na bazu sa superljepilom i zapunio rupe.

	  

	Priprema za bojanje je bila lakši dio posla, primer je bio svijetlosivi sprej, sa jednim slojem ljubičaste contrast boje. Nakon toga sam drybrushem bijele prekrio cijrli model. Ovime sam dobio čudnu bolesnjikavu bazu za slojeve zelene. Ovime završavam prvi dio tutoriala, nastavljam u drugom sa bojanjem i lijevanjem rezinske mase, uz završne detalje modela.

	  
"
    ["created"]=>
    string(19) "2026-10-19 07:14:35"
    ["modified"]=>
    string(19) "2026-10-19 07:14:35"
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    ["id"]=>
    string(3) "100"
    ["group_id"]=>
    string(1) "2"
    ["first_name"]=>
    string(5) "Mario"
    ["last_name"]=>
    string(7) "Grgurev"
    ["first_name_mask"]=>
    string(5) "mario"
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    string(7) "grgurev"
    ["username"]=>
    string(9) "lepimario"
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    ["born"]=>
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    ["created"]=>
    string(19) "2022-01-21 09:02:32"
  }
}

Mario Grgurev, 19th October 2026

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