PIRATE'S COVE GAMING BOARD – pt.2

Marko Paunović, 22nd August 2020

This article finds the second and final part of the step by step tutorial of the building process of a gaming board for a board game called Pirate's Cove that my club's (terrain workshop did a couple of years ago.

Click for enlarged picture

The Design:

In the previous article, Andrija and I made the basic outline of the board with the frame, ran the wires underneath the board and made all the ships. The next thing, before the actual build, would be to have all the electronics installed so the terrain could be built around it. Before installment, we needed to check all the calculations and agree on the final layout of all the features.

Click for enlarged picture

Electronics:

In this model we decided to fit the smoke generator (hereinafter - fogger), and in every house an LED would be built in order to evoke the effect of burning lamps or candles. As the power source for the board we chose the electricity from the grid which meant 220V AC current (in Croatia). Therefore the alternating current must be mentioned here, since the fogger is powered via the adapter from the city grid. The adapter which goes with the fogger changes AC 220V current to 24V AC also. (NOTE: If the device transforms the current from 220V AC to 24V DC for example, it is then called the transformer - author's note).

The advantage of using city power grid (ie adapters and transformers) is that there is no concern about the consumption of electricity, namely, no batteries which could be spent.

Since the LEDs are working exclusively on DC, it was necessary to connect the LED circuitry in parallel with the fogger. Apart from the fogger branch, we needed to extract one branch to go through Graetz bridge which would be connected to all the LED circuitry. As explained in a previous issue, Graetz combination (ie single-phase full-wave rectifier) only corrects the voltage, but it does not ''straighten'' it. In order to straighten the voltage it is necessary to add an RC circuit. In this gaming board, that was not necessary to make because the local electrical grid works on frequency f = 50 Hz (meaning that the voltage is sinusoidal and makes 50 cycles per second). Using a single-phase full-wave rectifier that frequency doubles, so the frequency is 100Hz. The human eye does not notice the higher frequency of 20Hz. What does this mean exactly? That our LED will be flashing 100 times per second, but you will not notice it. Indeed, it will look as if the LED were constantly lit. It should be noted that Graetz circuit losses of approximately 10% and that voltage 24V DC will therefore be around 22V DC.

Click for enlarged picture

The calculation of the LED circuits is relatively simple because there is a lot of repetition. Each branch (except Crew Island) looks the same and as far as the resistance calculation runs as follows:

Click for enlarged picture

and for Crew Island:

Click for enlarged picture

Here we calculate the electrical power in each branch :

Click for enlarged picture

which is relatively high power. It is no surprise when one considers the fact that the resistor reduces the voltage for 20V! This information is important when choosing the resistor, because when you buy it, you will need to emphasize that you are looking for such a powerful resistor. For the Crew Island two resistors of 50Ω and 0.04 W are required

Click for enlarged picture

This result is also not surprising because the resistor reduces the voltage for only 2V, and through it flows a current of 20mA.

We now return to the beginning - the adapter, which in this case has Imax=1200mA. The next step is to add all the currents in the branches.

Click for enlarged picture

So, to run all the LEDs you need 240mA which leaves 960mA for fogger to work, which after testing with a multimeter showed that is enough. If it were not,the calculation should be revised.

Finally, the elements needed for this project are:
• Fogger (with adapter AC 220V → 24V AC)
• 2 pairs of male-female Jack's
• Graetz bridge
• 7 switches
• 10 R = 1kΩ resistor R, P = 0.5 W
• 2 R = 50Ω resistor
• 27 LEDs (yellow, 3mm)
• 2 LEDs (red, 5mm → Treasure Island, the eyes of the skull)
• 1 LED (red, 3mm → Tavern Island, the upper floor tavern)
• a minimum of 10m of wire.

The Continuation of the Build

Once the electronics were installed and the Graetz bridge was prodected inside a box that was made from balsa wood, we did a test run. The LEDs indeed did not flicker, the volcano produced the fog and we could proceed with the terrain build.

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

The first island we tackled was Crew Island. We decided to have a small sea town with a town hall and a church with a graveyard on a hill. The streets of the town were made from plastic pieces of a 1/72 medieval castle. The buildings were built by Andrija from 1,5mm thick balsa wood and thin card. The window shutters were about 1x1mm in size and were each cut from a piece of paper. We placed most of the buildings on top of 3mm yellow LEDs that were drilled through the bottom of the plastic street construction.

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

The fortress on Gun Island was done from the same medieval castle plastic kit. Sides of the octogonal bastions were carefully cut using a scalpel blade. The guns were salvaged from a Revell plastic ship. To finish the job, we placed a chain at the port entrance.

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

The body of all the islands was made from 2cm thick HD styrofoam. The beaches, cliffs and the rest of the features were modelled from air drying clay (DAS). The piers were done from 2mm thick balsa wood. Once the clay and PVA glue were dry, the islands were coated in watered down PVA glue. The top surfaces were sprinkled over with coarser sand while the beaches were covered with smallest grain sand we could find. In this case, it was chinchilla sand from a local pet shop.

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

With this, most of the islands were done. All that was left was to do the Pirate's Cove island and make a removable volcano. We had to make the volcano removable to make it possible to fill and empty the vessel for the water that the fogger uses to make fog. If we left the board in one piece, it would have been impossible to empty the tank which would eventually cause the formation of calk or something even worse. Again, the body of the island was built by HD styrofoam. Using styrofoam boards made it possible to have a straight cut between the island and the removable volcano. Once the island part of styrofoam was dry, the tank was placed in its spot and around it another layer of styrofoam was placed and glued to the tank from the top side. Once it was dry, we made the island and volcano features following the same procedure as we did for the rest of the islands using DAS air drying clay. Once it was dry, we textured it with sand (two different sizes).

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

The islands were painted using Pebeo Deco colours (Black, Brown, Ochre, Ash, White and Grey) and flocked using static grass. The trees were made from twisted wire trees bought on Ebay. When the islands were done, I painted the seas. As I wanted the blue to be really bright, I used a white undercoat that was hand painted using a large brush as I didn't want to risk botching up the rest of the work by accidental spillage by using sprey/air brush. After it was done, I mixed several shades of blue (by mixing Pebeo Deco White and Blue). Each progressive layer had more Blue in it. Before pouring in the resin, we decided to make a compass with a club sign. The painted design on a piece of paper was simply cut out and glued using watered down PVA glue. All that was needed was to mix the resin and pour it in carefully. For this, we used Gedeo Crystal Resin. A quick calculation revealed that we needed 600ml of resin in order to make the water 1,5-2mm deep. Carefully we mixed the two part resin (mixing ratio is 2:1 vol which makes it easy to work with). Once the mixture was fully mixed I added a couple of drops of Pebeo Vitrail Sky Blue colour. Be careful when mixing, because you can easily overdo it and be left with too dark a resin.

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

After a drying period of about 24 hours, the board was done and we could present it to the guys from the club!

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Click for enlarged picture

Latest articles

  • Miniature Painting Workshop - Kitbashing and Converting
              array(2) {
      ["Article"]=>
      array(10) {
        ["id"]=>
        string(3) "455"
        ["member_id"]=>
        string(2) "35"
        ["title_eng"]=>
        string(55) "Miniature Painting Workshop - Kitbashing and Converting"
        ["title_hrv"]=>
        string(54) "Radionica bojanja minijatura - Kitbashing i converting"
        ["mask_eng"]=>
        string(55) "miniature_painting_workshop_-_kitbashing_and_converting"
        ["mask_hrv"]=>
        string(54) "radionica_bojanja_minijatura_-_kitbashing_i_converting"
        ["content_eng"]=>
        string(3840) "

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    " ["content_hrv"]=> string(5445) "

    Click for enlarged picture

    U subotu i nedjelju, 17. i 18.5. održali smo novu vikend radionicu bojanja minijatura. Ovog puta tema je bilo konvertiranje i kitbashanje.

    Radionica se provodila kroz dva dana (cijeli vikend) i bila je fokusirana na izradu dvije (do tri) vlastite minijature od raznih dijelova (više različitih minijatura) uz dodatak modeliranja dijelova uz pomoć modelarskih masa (Green Stuff). Sastojala se od dva dijela, teorijskog i praktičnog dijela. Tijekom radionice polaznici su se upoznali s alatima, materijalima i tehnikama za izvođenje jednostavnih i kompleksnih konverzija, uključujući uporabu masa za modeliranje.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Teorijski dio uključuje savjete za planiranje, nabavu dijelova i smisleno sklapanje personaliziranih minijatura da bi polaznici naučili izbjeći početničke greške i podigli svoje vještine na viši nivo.
    U praktičnom dijelu, uz pomoć voditelja primijenila su se stečena znanja na vlastitu konverziju.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Praktični dio Radionice se odvijao na sljedeći način:
    Prvo, predavač sjedi za svojim stolom te objašnjava i demonstrira pojedini korak na svojem primjerku dok polaznici slušaju, gledaju, ali i postavljaju pitanja. Potom, polaznici sjedaju za svoje stolove i primjenjuju stečeno znanje. Predavač potom kruži između polaznika i provjerava kako svakom polazniku ide. Na taj način, može se prilagoditi svakom polazniku ponaosob.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    U nedjelju od 16:00 svi polaznici su dobili profesionalni feedback na urađene radove od Ane Polanšćak iz Gardens of Hecate.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    " ["created"]=> string(19) "2025-05-18 18:27:11" ["modified"]=> string(19) "2025-05-18 18:27:11" } ["Member"]=> array(10) { ["id"]=> string(2) "35" ["group_id"]=> string(1) "1" ["first_name"]=> string(5) "Marko" ["last_name"]=> string(9) "Paunović" ["first_name_mask"]=> string(5) "marko" ["last_name_mask"]=> string(8) "paunovic" ["username"]=> string(5) "marko" ["password"]=> string(40) "3bd37b326d19d1880d3b93a4b32e8fb3a90fa122" ["born"]=> string(19) "2033-03-07 20:35:00" ["created"]=> string(19) "2009-06-02 20:37:03" } }
    Marko Paunović, 18th May 2025
  • March to Hren28 week 7
              array(2) {
      ["Article"]=>
      array(10) {
        ["id"]=>
        string(3) "454"
        ["member_id"]=>
        string(2) "96"
        ["title_eng"]=>
        string(22) "March to Hren28 week 7"
        ["title_hrv"]=>
        string(24) "March to Hren28 tjedan 7"
        ["mask_eng"]=>
        string(22) "march_to_hren28_week_7"
        ["mask_hrv"]=>
        string(24) "march_to_hren28_tjedan_7"
        ["content_eng"]=>
        string(2791) "

    Our team is preparing to perform at the Turnip28 tournament called H.R.E.N.28 in Slovenia in July. Ana, Mario, Domagoj, Seb and Antoni assemble their armies and paint, and we follow them on their way!

    Click for enlarged picture

    ANTONI: „As for my latest pair of Fodder models, one carries a flag and the other carries a nest on its shoulders. The flag is made from a thin piece of copper that is clamped around a brass rod, secured with superglue, and then bent to look like fabric in the wind.

    Click for enlarged picture

    The nest is made of a mixture of green stuff and milliput that I cut lines into. I put two chicken eggs from the Tamiya farm animal set inside and secured them with a drop of superglue. The other models have all sorts of new heads, from simple medieval helmets to gas cylinder caps. To make it easier to see what they are doing, most of them have candles on their caps. “

    Click for enlarged picture

    MARIO: „As an unexpected addition to my army, I found an old pipe in the apartment and decided to turn it into a cannon. I had the legs from some bird monsters on the sprue and they turned out great for the conversion. My other toadie (which is supposed to be for Brutes) is a small knight and I wanted to give him some creature to stand out on to compensate. I found a stork from Muller, added the head of the pterodactyl I found on the floor of the Sferakon, and redid the legs. There are more things on the bird coming soon, but I have to decide which ones.“

    Click for enlarged picture

    " ["content_hrv"]=> string(2837) "

    Naša ekipa se sprema za nastup na Turnip28 turniru pod nazivom H.R.E.N.28 u Sloveniji u srpnju. Ana, Mario, Domagoj, Seb i Antoni slažu svoje vojske i farbaju, a mi ih pratimo na njihovom putu!

    Click for enlarged picture

    ANTONI: „Što se tiče par najnovijih Fodder modela, jedan nosi zastavicu, a drugi nosi gnijezdo na ramenima. Zastavica je napravljena od tankog komada bakra koji je kliještima stisnut oko mjedenog štapića, učvršćen superljepilom te potom savijen da izgleda kao tkanina na vjetru.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Gnijezdo je napravljeno od mješavine green stuffa i milliputa u koju sam urezao crte. Unutra sam ubacio dva kokošja jaja iz Tamiya seta domaćih životinja i učvrstio ih kapljicom superljepila. Ostali su modeli dobili svakakve nove glave, od običnih srednjovjekovnih kaciga do poklopaca od plinskih boca. Kako bi bolje vidjeli što rade, većina ih ima svijeće na kapama. “

    Click for enlarged picture

    MARIO: „Kao neočekivani dodatak mojoj vojsci, našao sam staru lulu u stanu i odlučio pretvoriti ju u top. Imao sam noge od nekih ptičjih čudovišta na sprue-u i ispale su super za konverziju. Moj drugi toadie (koji bi trebao biti za Brutes) je mali vitez i želio sam mu dati neko biće na kojem će se istaknuti za kompenzaciju. Našao sam rodu iz Mullera, dodao glavu pterodaktila kojeg sam našao na podu Sferakona i prepravio noge. Uskoro dolazi još stvari na pticu, ali se moram odlučiti koje.“

    Click for enlarged picture

    " ["created"]=> string(19) "2025-05-18 18:10:57" ["modified"]=> string(19) "2025-05-18 18:10:57" } ["Member"]=> array(10) { ["id"]=> string(2) "96" ["group_id"]=> string(1) "2" ["first_name"]=> string(6) "Antoni" ["last_name"]=> string(10) "Pastuović" ["first_name_mask"]=> string(6) "antoni" ["last_name_mask"]=> string(9) "pastuovic" ["username"]=> string(6) "antoni" ["password"]=> string(40) "5dfa823ee30df1936c1792d4c8348a4bcf4c64e2" ["born"]=> string(19) "2005-04-04 18:52:00" ["created"]=> string(19) "2019-04-04 18:53:09" } }
    Antoni Pastuović, 18th May 2025
  • Scratchbuilding Star Wars Crates
              array(2) {
      ["Article"]=>
      array(10) {
        ["id"]=>
        string(3) "453"
        ["member_id"]=>
        string(3) "102"
        ["title_eng"]=>
        string(32) "Scratchbuilding Star Wars Crates"
        ["title_hrv"]=>
        string(41) "Izrada kontejnera za diorame u SW setingu"
        ["mask_eng"]=>
        string(32) "scratchbuilding_star_wars_crates"
        ["mask_hrv"]=>
        string(41) "izrada_kontejnera_za_diorame_u_sw_setingu"
        ["content_eng"]=>
        string(4962) "

    Click for enlarged picture

    In this article I’ll explain how I scratchbuild crates for the Star Wars Universe, to use on bases or in dioramas. It’s pretty simple and fun, and the required tools and barrier to entry is really low. These are the tools and materials I have at my disposal when I start the build.

    Click for enlarged picture

    My materials are two polystyrene sheets of different thicknesses. I choose the 1mm and the 0.25mm for this build, as well as square tubes of polystyrene 7.9mm X 7.9mm and a ruler. These are produced by Evergreen, and are widely available in hobby stores around the world. The tools I use are plastic cement (preferably with a brush), a hobby knife and a nail file.

    Click for enlarged picture

    I cut off a tip of the square tube, trying to make the length as equal to the width as possible, so 7.9mm. Now I have a cube.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Then I cut out smaller details for panels and parts (called greeblies in Star Wars lingo) from both the thinner and the thicker polystyrene sheets. Here I cut out as many as possible, to give myself options when assembling the crates.

    Click for enlarged picture

    An important aesthetic detail of the Star Wars universe is notches, and so I cut notches into several of my panels, like in this illustration.

    Another stylistic factor of SW is that very few things are symmetrical. So I chose to make all sides of my crates different, varying the panelling and details, using both thick and thin polystyrene for variation in depth. Here are some examples of different sides of my crates.

    Click for enlarged picture

    The larger crate is created only using the polystyrene sheets, and not from the square tube. So I measured and cut out five equal sides (the bottom is open) of the 1mm thick polystyrene and glued them together to form a cube. I used the thinner polystyrene to cut out and create lids for all my crates as well. Everything is glued together using plastic cement which creates a strong bond relatively fast by melting the plastics together. Because of this I now have sturdy crates that I can then use the nail file to polish and clean up - making sure all sides of the bigger crate are flush, that all crates are flat at the bottom, and file down all the hard corners of the crates into more rounded shapes.

    Click for enlarged picture

    I test out the placement of the crates on my base, and make sure the scale works, before I finish the base.

    Click for enlarged picture

    " ["content_hrv"]=> string(4921) "

    Click for enlarged picture

    U ovom ću članku objasniti kako izrađujem sanduke za Star Wars svemir, za korištenje na bazama ili u dioramama. Prilično je jednostavno i zabavno, a potrebni alati i prepreka za ulazak su stvarno niski. Ovo su alati i materijali koje imam na raspolaganju kada počnem graditi.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Moji materijali su dvije polistirenske ploče različitih debljina. Odabrao sam 1 mm i 0,25 mm za ovu konstrukciju, kao i kvadratne cijevi od polistirena 7,9 mm X 7,9 mm i ravnalo. Njih proizvodi Evergreen i dostupni su u hobi trgovinama diljem svijeta. Alati koje koristim su plastični cement (po mogućnosti s četkom), hobi nož i turpija za nokte.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Odrezao sam vrh četvrtaste cijevi, pokušavajući da duljina bude što jednaka širini, dakle 7,9 mm. Sada imam kocku.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Zatim sam izrezao manje detalje za panele i dijelove (koji se u žargonu Ratova zvijezda nazivaju greeblies) i od tanjih i od debljih polistirenskih ploča. Ovdje sam izrezao što je više moguće, kako bih imao mogućnosti pri sastavljanju sanduka.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Važan estetski detalj Star Wars svemira su urezi, pa sam izrezao ureze u nekoliko svojih ploča, kao na ovoj ilustraciji.

    Još jedan stilski faktor SW-a je da je vrlo malo stvari simetrično. Stoga sam odlučio napraviti različite strane svojih sanduka, mijenjajući obloge i detalje, koristeći debeli i tanki polistiren za varijacije u dubini. Evo nekoliko primjera različitih strana mojih sanduka.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Veći sanduk izrađen je samo od polistirenskih ploča, a ne od četvrtaste cijevi. Tako sam izmjerio i izrezao pet jednakih stranica (dno je otvoreno) polistirena debljine 1 mm i zalijepio ih da formiraju kocku. Koristio sam tanji polistiren za izrezivanje i izradu poklopaca za sve svoje sanduke. Sve je zalijepljeno plastičnim cementom koji relativno brzo stvara čvrstu vezu topljenjem plastike. Zbog toga sada imam čvrste sanduke koje zatim mogu upotrijebiti turpiju za poliranje i čišćenje - pazeći da su sve strane većeg sanduka u ravnini, da su sve sanduke ravne na dnu i isturpijam sve tvrde kutove sanduka u zaobljenije oblike.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Prije nego što dovršim bazu, testiram položaj sanduka na svojoj bazi i uvjeravam se da vaga radi.

    Click for enlarged picture

    " ["created"]=> string(19) "2025-05-12 09:59:09" ["modified"]=> string(19) "2025-05-12 09:59:09" } ["Member"]=> array(10) { ["id"]=> string(3) "102" ["group_id"]=> string(1) "2" ["first_name"]=> string(9) "Sebastian" ["last_name"]=> string(8) "Søgård" ["first_name_mask"]=> string(9) "sebastian" ["last_name_mask"]=> string(4) "sgrd" ["username"]=> string(5) "norge" ["password"]=> string(40) "4dea770e7045a97695c7dc529698e85f5dadbded" ["born"]=> string(19) "2003-01-21 09:03:00" ["created"]=> string(19) "2022-01-21 09:03:12" } }
    Sebastian Søgård, 12nd May 2025
  • March to Hren28 week 6
              array(2) {
      ["Article"]=>
      array(10) {
        ["id"]=>
        string(3) "452"
        ["member_id"]=>
        string(2) "96"
        ["title_eng"]=>
        string(22) "March to Hren28 week 6"
        ["title_hrv"]=>
        string(24) "March to Hren28 tjedan 6"
        ["mask_eng"]=>
        string(22) "march_to_hren28_week_6"
        ["mask_hrv"]=>
        string(24) "march_to_hren28_tjedan_6"
        ["content_eng"]=>
        string(3113) "

    Our team is preparing to perform at the Turnip28 tournament called H.R.E.N.28 in Slovenia in July. Ana, Mario, Domagoj, Seb and Antoni assemble their armies and paint, and we follow them on their way!

    Click for enlarged picture

    ANTONI: „My cult, Feast of Charybdis, is based on one or two of these Scuttlers (my plan is to make only one) that jump out of the mud, i.e. deployment is anywhere on the board and they have to make a charge. Also, their melee must end so that they or the target end up out of action, so the fight repeats until someone dies. The cult now allows all units to bury and jump out from turn to turn. I want it to end up looking like a walking island that rose out of the mud, so the top next to the tower will have some vegetation, and everything else will be muddy.

    Click for enlarged picture

    The second unit I worked on is the blackpowder Fodder. They are the most numerous unit in Turnip (12) and rely on having as many of them as possible at all times. My idea is for them to look unmistakably like line infantry, but each one has a gimmick that sets them apart from the others, e.g. an underwater mine for a head, a barrel with a relic on its back. Since they consider the radish a sacred manifestation of "Root", their uniforms will be a pale purple, their helmets and weapons rusty.“

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    MARIO: „This week, I did some minor converting as well as finishing work on the Proboscis which I managed to prime as well.“

    Click for enlarged picture

    " ["content_hrv"]=> string(3109) "

    Naša ekipa se sprema za nastup na Turnip28 turniru pod nazivom H.R.E.N.28 u Sloveniji u srpnju. Ana, Mario, Domagoj, Seb i Antoni slažu svoje vojske i farbaju, a mi ih pratimo na njihovom putu!

    Click for enlarged picture

    ANTONI: „Moj kult, Feast of Charybdis, bazira se na jednom do dva ovakva Scuttlera (moj plan je samo jednog napravit) koji iskaču iz blata, tj. deployment je bilo gdje na boardu i moraju napravit charge. Također, njihov melee mora završiti tako da oni ili meta završe out of action, znači fight se ponavlja dok netko ne pogine. Kult sada dozvoljava svim jedinicama da se iz turna u turn zakopavaju i iskaču. Želim da mi na kraju izgleda kao hodajući otočić koji se podigao iz blata, pa će vrh pored tornja imati malo vegetacije, a sve ostalo će biti blatno.“

    Click for enlarged picture

    Drugi unit na kojem sam radio su blackpowder Fodder. Oni su najmnogobrojnija jedinica u Turnipu (12) i oslanjaju se na to da ih je što više u svakom trenutku. Moja ideja je da nedvojbeno izgledaju kao line infantry, ali da svaki ima neki gimmick koji ga razlikuje od drugih npr. podvodna mina umjesto glave, bačva s relikvijom na leđima. S obzirom da smatraju rotkvicu svetom manifestacijom "Roota", odore će im biti blijede ljubičaste boje, kacige i oružja zahrđala.“

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    MARIO: „Ovaj tjedan malo sam konvertirao, ali i dovršio Proboscisa kojeg sam čak i prajmao.“

    Click for enlarged picture

    " ["created"]=> string(19) "2025-05-12 09:51:35" ["modified"]=> string(19) "2025-05-12 09:51:35" } ["Member"]=> array(10) { ["id"]=> string(2) "96" ["group_id"]=> string(1) "2" ["first_name"]=> string(6) "Antoni" ["last_name"]=> string(10) "Pastuović" ["first_name_mask"]=> string(6) "antoni" ["last_name_mask"]=> string(9) "pastuovic" ["username"]=> string(6) "antoni" ["password"]=> string(40) "5dfa823ee30df1936c1792d4c8348a4bcf4c64e2" ["born"]=> string(19) "2005-04-04 18:52:00" ["created"]=> string(19) "2019-04-04 18:53:09" } }
    Antoni Pastuović, 12nd May 2025
  • We took part in: Sferakon 2025
              array(2) {
      ["Article"]=>
      array(10) {
        ["id"]=>
        string(3) "451"
        ["member_id"]=>
        string(3) "100"
        ["title_eng"]=>
        string(30) "We took part in: Sferakon 2025"
        ["title_hrv"]=>
        string(33) "Sudjelovali smo na: Sferakon 2025"
        ["mask_eng"]=>
        string(29) "we_took_part_in_sferakon_2025"
        ["mask_hrv"]=>
        string(32) "sudjelovali_smo_na_sferakon_2025"
        ["content_eng"]=>
        string(1600) "

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    " ["content_hrv"]=> string(2123) "

    Click for enlarged picture

    UMS "Agram" je ove godine na svom štandu u subotu 10.5. organizirao interaktivne Back to Basics radionice bojanja minijatura prilagođene svim uzrastima (od 8-99). Radionice za do tri polaznika su u trajanju od sat vremena.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Prijave nisu bile potrebne već po principu first come, first served. U pauzama između radionica, naši volonteri pokazivali su i demonstrirali razne minijaturističke tehnike.

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

    " ["created"]=> string(19) "2025-05-12 09:42:06" ["modified"]=> string(19) "2025-05-12 09:42:06" } ["Member"]=> array(10) { ["id"]=> string(3) "100" ["group_id"]=> string(1) "2" ["first_name"]=> string(5) "Mario" ["last_name"]=> string(7) "Grgurev" ["first_name_mask"]=> string(5) "mario" ["last_name_mask"]=> string(7) "grgurev" ["username"]=> string(9) "lepimario" ["password"]=> string(40) "11e0b1ecc2c467637dfa513774d2426f3b925264" ["born"]=> string(19) "2003-01-21 09:02:00" ["created"]=> string(19) "2022-01-21 09:02:32" } }
    Mario Grgurev, 12nd May 2025

All articles

Latest battle-reports

All battle-reports