UMS "Agram" : House on the Haunted Hill < Articles < Hobby

House on the Haunted Hill

Marko Paunović, 11th September 2020

Any old west town has an undertaker's and Malifaux shouldn't be any different, because let's face it, the burrying busines thrives in the city of Malifaux.

Idea and planning

By now you should already know my mantra about how crucuial planning is in any bigger project. Since I'm doing a more or less typical Haloween structure set in Old west, I started my google search and instantly I found pictures of several types of wooden structures that I was going for. Mostly I got a lot of Tim Burton hits which was perfect. A rickety old wooden house on top of a hill with a winding road leading up to it. Something like the opening scenes of the movie Sleepy Hollow. This gave me the idea of adding some jack o'lanterns to the terrain, as well. Being too lazy to sculpt my own, this in turn, prompted me to start a search of some jack o'lanterns. I knew I saw a couple of crews on the Wyrd forums that had some on their bases. Almost immediately I found some by Secret Weapon Miniatures and purchased them as I was aware that it would take them a while to get from the States to me in Croatia.

During my search for jack o'lanterns, I stumbled upon some model pumpkins made by Busch. Being reasonably priced, I ordered those as well.

I now had some details that I knew the folks at Wyrd would love and I had a rough idea what my terrain should look like. It was time to put it all to paper. Begining with the house, I started drawing on a blank piece of paper. Once I had the preliminary sketch, I transfered it to graph paper. This provided me with some measurements that I could work with. The hill would be 10 cm high, the house would have a rough footprint of 10x8 cm while the whole terrain would have a footprint of roughly 30x40cm. This much space would allow me to have the winiding road – wide enough for a hearse (which I accidentally found in my bits box and decided to use).

Materials and tools

After the rough sketch, I could make a definite list of materials and tools needed for this project. Those are as follows:
- one 2x2 mm linden slat
- one 5x5 mm linden slat
- roughly two full planks of 2 mm balsa wood (they come in 10 x 100 cm planks)
- roughly 20cm of 5mm balsa wood (they also come in 10 x 100 cm planks)
- about 0,5m2 of 5cm thick HD styrofoam (50x100cm)
- superglue
- PVA glue
- 0,5 kg of DAS air drying clay
- gravel (four sizes)
- static grass / tufts
- pine trees
- sanding paper (1 sheet)
- thin card
- masking tape
- toothpicks
- some pins
- pumpkins
- jack o'lanterns
- hearse

The tools needed are:
- scalpel blade
- marker pen
- scissors
- modelling saw
- pin vice (or an electric mini drill)
- brushes– various sizes – for painting/washing and for drybrushing
- pliers and pincers
- hot wire cutter

* Unlike June issue of Wyrd Chronicles, where I used my Proxxon disc sander, jigsaw on the MDF to make the base, here I would make the base with styrofoam only. However, if you like a sturdier terrain, you can always cut the MDF base using a jigsaw and sand it down using a disc sander. When your base is cut, just glue the styrofoam base described later to your MDF base.

Building the base

Having all the materials arrive, I cut the footprint of the house that I drew on the graph paper and using a marker pen I used it as a template to drew a rough outline of the house on the HD styrofoam board. Around it, I started drawing trying to copy the design from the paper onto the HD styrofoam board. Once I was satisfied with the layout, I proceeded to cut it with my scalpel blade. Using long strokes with relatively shallow cuts it took me several goes to cut only one piece of styrofoam. Going around the base, I repeated the process untill I cut what would be the whole base of my new terrain. It is important to go with shallow cuts, because if you try with to deep of a cut, you'll end up tearing the styrofoam which looks really messy and would only result in a lot of sanding. This in turn would slow the whole building process. I now had the first layer of my haunted hill. If you remember, I wrote that my hill would be 10cm high. The HD styrofoam being only 5cm thick, meant I had to cut another base of the same size. Using the first base as a template I first drew the outline with a marker pen and then following the same procedure as with the first base, I cut it to size with my scalpel blade.

With both halves of the base cut, I had to make the winding road which meant further cutting of both of the bases. Using a marker of another colour, I drew the cut lines and carefully cut the excess styrofoam with my scalpel blade.

NOTE: if you feel that the cutting is getting heavier, change the blade. Unfortunately, styrofoam is murder on the blades and to have a perfect cut, you need sharp blades.

After the cutting was done, I used a piece of sanding paper to smooth out the irregularities left over from the scalpel blade. The two halves were now complete and I had to glue them together. Using skewers to connect the halves I glued them using PVA glue. I also noticed that at the start of the road the styrofoam was really thin so I stuck a whole skewer through the side of the terrain so it wouldn't break. Also, I protected the begining of the road with masking tape.

With the base glued, I now had to cut the cliffs. Same as last time I used my hot wire cutter to model the vertical surfaces. I again used my cheapest wire cutter, powered by two AA batteries. The electricity from the batteries heats up the wire that then melts the styrofoam performing a perfect straight cut. However, as it heats the wire elongates so you should take into account that fact when fixing the wire to the cutter. If the wire is too long, it will still perform the job, however it won't be as handy and you (like me) will have to stoop to some really fiddly and strange handling of the device in order to get a nice cut. After a bit of fiddling I managed to engrave the errosion patterns with the hot wire cutter.

When the hillside was built, it still looked a bit dull and plain so I decided to make some escarpments along the sides of the cliffs. In order to do so, I needed to build up the volume there. I could have done it using HD styrofoam once again, but I opted against it, choosing to sculpt the escarpments using DAS air drying clay. DAS comes in two versions, white and terracota. Both are equally good, don't crack during the curing period and are reasonably good for sculpting. (Note: you won't be able to sculpt your minis with DAS, but you will be able to model brick or stone walls, cobbled streets and whatnot.) I poured some PVA glue and spread some DAS along the inner and outer sides of the winding road. I then added some clay to the upper level of the base. I also added some volume to the middle of the road with DAS clay as well.

Finally we come to the stage of adding the texture. First, I decided to do the road. Applying a heavy coat of PVA glue, I added some gravel. As always I started with the largest grain and finishing with the smallest grain – sand for chinchillas. I also used the smallest grain on my pumpkin field on top of the base.

The road and field being done, I could now turn to the other horizontal surfaces – mostly the sides of the road. Again, I covered everything with PVA glue and added three or four different types of gravel. The final layer was a bit coaser than chinchilla sand in order to differentiate between the two.

When these were dry, I added pure chinchilla sand to the vertical surfaces of the cliffs. Here I had to make sure the PVA got into the grooves so I diluted the PVA with water in order for it to flow more freely.

I do all my texturing (and flocking for that matter) inside an old trey. This way all the excess material drops into it so I can reuse it later on. Saves money and time on vacuuming.

After the texture was dry, I undercoated the base with a black acrylic mat sprey in my garage. Always sprey in a well ventilated area.

Making the structure

While the texture and undercoat were drying, I proceeded to make the structure of the Undertaker's house. I decided to go for an easier and faster method of building the structure than I used in my old west church build. Unlike the old west church where I first made the wooden frame and then glued each plank separately, here I opted to make the walls from a single piece of 2mm balsa wood. On top of it, I would then glue 2mm thick balsa planks (cca 0,5x3cm). I made sure the wall structure had grooves going in up-down direction while the wall planks were glued going left to right. This way, although the wall is relatively thin, the structure is sturdy enough to withstand gaming abuse without any damage/breakage. As with MDF and styrofoam bases, I first drew the outlines of each wall on the balsa plank using my marker pen. Then I carefully cut each wall. I used my modellers saw for cuts against the grain (perpendicular to it) and used the scalpel blade for cuts going with the grain. When every wall segment was cut, I glued the walls together.

It was now time to cut and model balsa planks. Once again, I used a method similar to the one I used during the old church build. Since I would need a lot of slats of mostly the same size (3cm long) which would require a lot of precise and repeated measuring, I decided to help myself and construct a toos that would be used to cut the slats into desired length - 30 mm long. The geometry of these simple tools would allow fast and precise cutting of the balsa slats and true enough after only half an hour I had cut almost 4 meters of balsa planks.

Once the basic outline of the structure was made, I started gluing the planks. In places where the planks protruded from the walls, I cut them using my scalpel blade. The whole process is fiddly mostly because none of the walls is perpendicular to the other so lots of tayloring was required.

To make the roof structure, I used 2mm thick balsa wood. Once the roof structure was made, I used the same material I used on the church to make the roof – sanding paper cut to size. I just love the texture it has. Once everything was finished, I took both the structure and the base to my garage for a quick sprey of undercoat. Remember to always sprey in a well ventilated area! When the undercoat was dry, I first dryfitted the building to the base, closed the gaps with some balsa planks and applied with a large brush a coat of black colour to the places the sprey didn't reach.

Painting

When the undercoat was dry, it was time to paint the terrain. Normally, I would have glued the building to the base at this point but I decided against it mainly because of the site of the terrain itself. This way I could handle the terrain easier so I left the two parts separate. I started painting the base first. Wanting all my terrain to fit one theme (and consequently one tabletop) it was only natural I use the same colours and colour scheme as on the earlier terrain. Therefore once again I used Pebeo Deco color range. I used Brown (29) for the basecoat and continued drybrushing with Ocre (51). Lighter shades were done with a 50:50 mixture of Ocre (51) and White (41). The final highlight was done with Antique White (69). The road was first basecoated with Brown (29) then heavily drybrushed with Ocre (51) and a 50:50 mixture of Ocre (51) and White (41). The last two highlights were Antique White (69) and pure White (41). This way, I had a visual difference between the cliffs with normal groundwork and the worn out road.

The building has two different surfaces and consequently textures – roof and wooden walls. I proceeded to paint the wooden walls by drybrushing first using a 50:50 mixture of Black (55) and Grey (54). Next layer was pure Grey (54) and the finishing highlight was Ash Brown (70). I was not quite satisfied with the result, so I added another highlight of pure White (41). The roof was painted first with a mixture of Black (55) and Grey (54) and then a mixture of Grey (54) and Antique White (69) finishing with almost a pure coat of Antique White (69). With the base and house painted, I could now glue them together. I used PVA glue to glue the building in place.

Vegetation

After the painting, it was time to add the vegetation to the base. First up, I decided to plant some pine trees. I used Ziterdes ones that come in a big pack of 20 (or 25, not sure). They come on long shafts and in several sizes and heights. In order to glue them in place, I first had to cut their round bases as they got in the way. I also added metal pins to the pine trees. The easiest method of pinning metal pins to the plastic trunks of the trees is to heat the metal pin using a candle and just stick it into the trunk. The heat will melt the plastic locally and as the pin goes into the trunk the heat dissipates and once the pin is cool it will become lodged into the trunk without any need to glue it. Also, I used a pinvice to make the hole in the DAS clay base to accommodate the pins. I glued the trees using both PVA and super glue.

With the trees in place, I could now add the static grass. I made a mixture using several green, brown, yellow and black shades of static grass and when I was satisfied with the end product, I glued it in random patches throughout the base. One thing I made sure of is that I put static grass over any and all of the remaining holes where the wooden structure met the base in order to hide the unintentional mistake. Once the static grass was in place, I applied several shades of different tufts. Again, as in the former articles, I used tufts made by a company called Gamer's Grass.

In the end I added my cool Haloween-ey additions. First up was the pumpkin field. Pumpkins come from Busch, a German model train company that produces excellent terrain accessories, especially in their Natur Pur range (pumpkins, sunflowers, roses, water lillies etc). The set cost about 8USD and has 10 sets of pumpkins with vines and I think it's great value for money. Being an H0 scale, these are in a scale a bit smaller than 32mm minis but the pumpkins come in various sizes so you can even use the smallest pumpkins as tomatos. They already come in different colours so painting required was minimal. When the painting was done, I glued the couple of sets into my pumpkin field using superglue. The second addition was a couple of Jack o'lanterns made by Secret Weapon Miniatures. Set costs about 10 USD and has 10 Jack o'lanterns which is also great value for money. They are full of character and come in several sizes and designs. Unlike Busch, they are created for tabletop miniatures in mind so the scale works perfectly. Being grey these required some painting – using reds and oranges with some black lining. Once I was done with the painting, I glued them randomly along the road and in front of the house for some Haloween feeling. The third addition was the coffin and the lid. They come from an English company called Zealot Miniatures. Among other stuff, they produce excellent resin accessories for dungeons (like doors, trap doors, furniture, fountains etc..). In fact, they recently had quite a successful Kickstarter. I painted the grey resing with brown colours. The final addition to the terrain, which I actually left unglued, was the hearse. It was an old GW Black Coach that I had lying around. I built it using superglue and painted it black with some grey highlights. The reason for leaving it unglued was purely because of easier gaming. With it in the shed, it would prevent models from going around the house. This marked the end of the build and all I had to do was to take some pictures of the finished product.

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Alps Diorama part 1

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	In the next two articles I will cover the making of the Alps diorama. The main “actor” of the diorama is a 1/87 scale oldtimer bus. In addition to it, the package also included a few figures (but more about them in another article).

	  

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	Kroz naredna dva članka obradit ću izradu diorame Alpi. Glavni “akter” diorame je oldtimer autobus u mjerilu 1/87. Pored njega u paketu došla je i nekolicina figura (ali o njima više u drugom članku).

	  

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	Zadnji korak bilo je dodavanje asfalta na cestu. Koristio sam efekt od Ammoa.

	  
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Marko Paunović, 16th December 2024

TOP TIP – Wooden Beam Flooring

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	Construction:

	I used 1 mm thick balsa. I used a balsa cutter to cut the beams to 4 mm thick and cut them to 68 mm long (dimensions of the floorboards in M 1:35). I sanded the edges and placed them on a 2 mm thick balsa base. I glued everything together on a wooden base from swood.si .

	

	Painting:

	First I applied Sephia Wash, then sanded a little. Then I filled the cracks with Agrax Earthshade and stained the spots a little. Sanded a little harder and then repeated the Sephia Wash. When it was dry, I used a fine sanding sponge in a few places to simulate wear.
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	Izrada:

	Koristio sam balzu 1 mm debljine. Balsa cutterom izvukao grede na 4 mm debljine i narezao na 68 mm duljine (dimenzije dasaka za pod u M 1:35). Pošmirglao rubove i posložio na podlogu balze od 2 mm debljine. Sve zajedno zaljepio na drvenu bazu od swood.si .

	

	Bojanje:

	Prvo sam stavio Sephia Wash, pa malo pošmirglao. Zatim Agrax Earthshade-om ispunio pukotine i malo umrljao fleke. Pošmirglao malo jače i onda ponovio Sephia Wash. Kad se posušilo fina brusna spuzvica na nekoliko mjesta da simulira izlizanost.
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Krunoslav Belinić, 10th December 2024

Back to Basics workshops at Zagreb City Libraries 2024

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	In 2024, we started a new program called Back to Basics miniature painting workshops for the youngest in collaboration with the Zagreb City Libraries. We held a total of four workshops during October and November with 29 participants, our youngest fellow citizens.

	

	We held the first workshop at the Children's Department of the Medveščak Library on Saturday, October 12, 2024.

	

	The second workshop, also at the Children's Department of the Medveščak Library at Zvonimirova 17, was held on October 26, 2024.

	

	We held the third workshop in the VN Reading Room and Gallery (Vladimir Nazor Library) at Ilica 163-a on Saturday, November 9, 2024.

	

	The fourth workshop was also held at the VN Gallery on Saturday, November 23, 2024.

	

	During the workshop, the participants assembled a model of the castle, then painted it, and finally painted the dragon that guards the tower.

	

	Easily available materials are used, as well as those obtained through the upcycle method (upcycling - creative reuse, is the process of converting by-products, waste materials, useless or unwanted products into new materials or products that are considered higher quality, such as artistic value), which makes the entire project environmentally friendly and innovative.

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	After the workshops were completed, the children received diplomas for completing the workshop and, of course, took their work home.

	

	As a token of gratitude, we awarded Certificates of Appreciation to the Medveščak Library, the VN Gallery, and the City of Zagreb Libraries. We presented and presented all of our publications and manuals written so far to our colleagues from the Libraries.

	

	For larger photos, visit our social networks.
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	2024. smo započeli novi program pod nazivom Back to Basics radionice bojanja minijatura za najmlađe u suradnji sa Knjižnicama Grada Zagreba. Ukupno smo održali četiri radionice tijekom listopada i studenog sa 29 polaznika, naših najmlađih sugrađana.

	

	Prvu radionicu održali smo na Dječjem odjelu Knjižnice Medveščak u subotu 12.10.2024. 

	

	Druga radionica, također na Dječjem odjelu Knjižnice Medveščak u Zvonimirovoj 17, održana je 26.10.2024.

	

	Treću radionicu održali smo u Čitaonici i Galeriji VN (Knjižnica Vladimira Nazora) u Ilici 163-a u subotu 09.11.2024.

	

	Četvrta radionica održana također u Galeriji VN u subotu 23.11.2024.

	

	Tijekom radionice, polaznici su sastavljali maketu dvorca, potom ju bojali, a na kraju obojali i zmaja koji čuva kulu.

	

	Koriste se lako nabavljivi materijali, ali i oni dobiveni upcycle metodom  (upcycling – eng. kreativna ponovna uporaba, proces je pretvaranja nusproizvoda, otpadnih materijala, beskorisnih ili neželjenih proizvoda u nove materijale ili proizvode koji se smatraju kvalitetnijima, poput umjetničke vrijednosti) što čini cijeli projekt ekološki prihvatljivim i inovativnim.

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	Po završetku radionica mališani su dobili diplome za završenu radionicu i naravno, svoje radove su odnijeli kući.

	

	U znak zahvale, dodijelili smo Zahvalnice Knjižnici Medveščak, Galeriji VN kao i Knjižnicama Grada Zagreba. Kolegicama iz Knjižnica prezentirali smo i poklonili sve naše publikacije i priručnike do sada napisane.

	

	Za veće fotografije posjetite naše socijalne mreže.
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Krunoslav Belinić, 26th November 2024

Big Panda and Tiny Dragon drawing workshop

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During this year's Interliber, the author of the books about the Big Panda and the Tiny Dragon, James Norbury, held several different events and meetings with readers. On Friday, November 15, I had the opportunity to participate in a workshop on drawing characters from his books. Since James is an illustrator and his works include abstract landscapes, fantasy art, SF and cyberpunk comics, drawings and graphics, it was interesting for me to see how the panda and dragon characters are created in the technique of Japanese Zen painters.

James drew with a felt-tip pen and explained the structure of the characters and their characteristics. For example, the dragon has no eyebrows, so the expression of emotions is partially limited to a couple of eye shapes and hand gestures. While the panda rarely has a mouth in his drawings, so his expression of emotions is also sparse. However, it is precisely through the position of the body, the relationship between the characters, and the text below the picture that James's books convey the story and thoughts of a Buddhist view of life.

One of the messages is that not everything needs to be perfect, both in drawing and in life. He is not satisfied with some of the drawings that James made and published in the book, but as he himself says, if he had waited to make them perfect, he would never have published the book. You start with what you have and improve along the way. A philosophy that we often apply with our figures, dioramas and models.

I enjoyed copying and learning to draw the characters and tried my hand at making a few frames. At first the panda looked more like a Teddy bear, but with practice it took on a panda-like appearance and body position.

I recommend that anyone who has not yet read James Norbury's books find them and read them. They are quick to read, but can leave a long-lasting impression on your mind.

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Tijekom ovogodnišnjeg Interlibera autor knjiga o Velikom pandi i sićušnom zmaju James Norbury, održao je nekoliko različitih događanja i susreta s čitateljima. U petak 15. studenog imao sam priliku sudjelovati na radionici crtanja likova iz njegovih knjiga. S obzirom da je James ilustrator i njegova djela uključuju apstraktne pejzaže, fantasy art, SF i cyberpunk stripove, crteže i grafike, bilo mi je zanimljivo vidjeti kako nastaju likovi pande i zmaja u tehnici japanskih zen slikara.

James je crtao flomasterom i objašnjavao strukturu likova i njihove osobine. Npr. zmaj nema obrve pa je prikazivanje emocija djelomično ograničeno na par oblika očiju i gestikulacije rukama. Dok panda rijetko kad ima usta na crtežima, pa je i njegovo prikazivanje emocija oskudno. No upravo položajem tijela, međuodnosom likova i tekstom ispod slike Jamesove knjige prenose priču i misli budističkog pogleda na život.

Jedna od poruka je i da ne treba sve biti savršeno, kako na crtežu, tako i u životu. S nekim crtežima koje je James napravio i objavio u knjizi nije zadovoljan, no kako i sam kaže da je čekao da ih napravi savršeno ne bi nikada objavio knjigu. Kreneš s onim što imaš i putem se usavršavaš. Filozofija koju često primjenjujemo i mi sa svojim figurama, dioramama i modelima.

Uživao sam kopirajući i učeći crtati likove i okušao se u izradi par okvira. U početku je panda više sličila na Teddy beara, no s vježbom je dobila pandasti izgled i položaj tijela.

Svima koji se još nisu upoznali s knjigama Jamesa Norbury preporučam da ih pronađu i pročitaju. Brzo se čitaju, no mogu ostaviti dugi trag u promišljanjima.

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Krunoslav Belinić, 26th November 2024

We visited: Slovenian State Championship in plastic modelling, Ljubljana 16.11.2024.

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	On Saturday, 16.11.2024. in Ljubljana, the Slovenian Nationals in plastic modeling was held. Our delegation performed in several categories.

	  

	After arriving, registering and placing works in the appropriate categories, the most important thing was to meet again and talk with colleagues from other cities and countries such as Slovenia and Italy.

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	It was a special pleasure for us to present and present several copies of our latest edition to our partners and friends from Back to Basics!

	  

	Also a real refreshment is the discovery of the (so far the only) manufacturer of real wooden bases and plinths in these areas - swood.si!

	  

	A little after 11:00, it was time to open the even officially and inspect the exhibits.

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	Given that, after several years of ugly weather, this weekend was sunny, we decided to use that time for a walk in beautiful Ljubljana.

	  

	  

	  

	Kruno: "This year, Slovenian Nationals were also an opportunity to see new and interesting works by colleagues from Slovenia, Croatia, Italy, Austria and other countries. An opportunity to encourage your own creativity and ideas, to admire the craftsmanship, effort and skill of people with whom you share similar interests. The day was beautiful, so the walk in Ljubljana was quite legal and filled the impression of this year's Championship. Marko and Vanja made sure that some "precious" metal was attached to Agram's name, so I was carefree and enjoyed the nice trip."

	  

	  

	After sightseeing the city, we returned to the competition just in time for the awarding of medals. Our members won a total of 4 medals - 2 gold, silver and bronze!

	  

	  

	  

	On the way back, our team refreshed itself traditionally at the Reset brewery in Brežice!

	  
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	U subotu, 16.11.2024. u Ljubljani održavalo se Državno prvenstvo Slovenije u plastičnom maketarstvu. Naša delegacija je nastupila u nekoliko kategorija.

	  

	Nakon dolaska, registracije i postavljanja radova u odgovarajuće kategorije, najbitnije je bilo ponovno se susresti i popričati sa kolegama iz drugih gradova i država poput Slovenije te Italije.

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	Posebno zadovoljstvo nam je bilo predstaviti i pokloniti nekoliko primjeraka našeg zadnjeg izdanja našim partnerima i prijateljima iz Back to Basics!

	  

	Također pravo osvježenje jest pronalazak (za sada jedinog) proizvođača pravih drvenih baza i plinthova na ovim prostorima – swood.si !

	  

	Nešto iza 11h došlo je vrijeme za otvorenje susreta i pregled radova.

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	S obzirom da je, nakon nekoliko godina ružnog vremena, ovaj vikend bio obasjan suncem, odlučili smo iskoristiti to vrijeme za šetnju predivnom Ljubljanom.

	  

	  

	  

	Kruno: “I ove godine je DPS bio prilika za pogledati nove i zanimljive radove kolege iz Slovenije, Hrvatske, Italije, Austrije i drugih zemalja. Prilika za potaknuti vlastitu kreativnost i ideje, diviti se umješnosti, uloženom trudu i vještini ljudi s kojim dijeliš slične interese. Dan je bio lijep, pa je i šetnja Ljubljanom sasvim dobro legala i popunila dojam ovogodišnjeg Prvenstva. Marko i Vanja su se pobrinuli da se i nešto "plemenitog" metala zakači uz Agramovo ime, pa sam ja bezbrižno uživao u lijepom izletu.“

	  

	  

	Nakon razgleda grada, vratili smo se na natjecanje taman na dodjelu medalja. Članovi su ukupno osvojili 4 medalje – 2 zlata, srebro i broncu!

	  

	  

	  

	Na povratku naša ekipa se okrijepila već tradicionalno u Reset pivovari u Brežicama!

	  
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