UMS "Agram" : House on the Haunted Hill < Articles < Hobby

House on the Haunted Hill

Marko Paunović, 11th September 2020

Any old west town has an undertaker's and Malifaux shouldn't be any different, because let's face it, the burrying busines thrives in the city of Malifaux.

Idea and planning

By now you should already know my mantra about how crucuial planning is in any bigger project. Since I'm doing a more or less typical Haloween structure set in Old west, I started my google search and instantly I found pictures of several types of wooden structures that I was going for. Mostly I got a lot of Tim Burton hits which was perfect. A rickety old wooden house on top of a hill with a winding road leading up to it. Something like the opening scenes of the movie Sleepy Hollow. This gave me the idea of adding some jack o'lanterns to the terrain, as well. Being too lazy to sculpt my own, this in turn, prompted me to start a search of some jack o'lanterns. I knew I saw a couple of crews on the Wyrd forums that had some on their bases. Almost immediately I found some by Secret Weapon Miniatures and purchased them as I was aware that it would take them a while to get from the States to me in Croatia.

During my search for jack o'lanterns, I stumbled upon some model pumpkins made by Busch. Being reasonably priced, I ordered those as well.

I now had some details that I knew the folks at Wyrd would love and I had a rough idea what my terrain should look like. It was time to put it all to paper. Begining with the house, I started drawing on a blank piece of paper. Once I had the preliminary sketch, I transfered it to graph paper. This provided me with some measurements that I could work with. The hill would be 10 cm high, the house would have a rough footprint of 10x8 cm while the whole terrain would have a footprint of roughly 30x40cm. This much space would allow me to have the winiding road – wide enough for a hearse (which I accidentally found in my bits box and decided to use).

Materials and tools

After the rough sketch, I could make a definite list of materials and tools needed for this project. Those are as follows:
- one 2x2 mm linden slat
- one 5x5 mm linden slat
- roughly two full planks of 2 mm balsa wood (they come in 10 x 100 cm planks)
- roughly 20cm of 5mm balsa wood (they also come in 10 x 100 cm planks)
- about 0,5m2 of 5cm thick HD styrofoam (50x100cm)
- superglue
- PVA glue
- 0,5 kg of DAS air drying clay
- gravel (four sizes)
- static grass / tufts
- pine trees
- sanding paper (1 sheet)
- thin card
- masking tape
- toothpicks
- some pins
- pumpkins
- jack o'lanterns
- hearse

The tools needed are:
- scalpel blade
- marker pen
- scissors
- modelling saw
- pin vice (or an electric mini drill)
- brushes– various sizes – for painting/washing and for drybrushing
- pliers and pincers
- hot wire cutter

* Unlike June issue of Wyrd Chronicles, where I used my Proxxon disc sander, jigsaw on the MDF to make the base, here I would make the base with styrofoam only. However, if you like a sturdier terrain, you can always cut the MDF base using a jigsaw and sand it down using a disc sander. When your base is cut, just glue the styrofoam base described later to your MDF base.

Building the base

Having all the materials arrive, I cut the footprint of the house that I drew on the graph paper and using a marker pen I used it as a template to drew a rough outline of the house on the HD styrofoam board. Around it, I started drawing trying to copy the design from the paper onto the HD styrofoam board. Once I was satisfied with the layout, I proceeded to cut it with my scalpel blade. Using long strokes with relatively shallow cuts it took me several goes to cut only one piece of styrofoam. Going around the base, I repeated the process untill I cut what would be the whole base of my new terrain. It is important to go with shallow cuts, because if you try with to deep of a cut, you'll end up tearing the styrofoam which looks really messy and would only result in a lot of sanding. This in turn would slow the whole building process. I now had the first layer of my haunted hill. If you remember, I wrote that my hill would be 10cm high. The HD styrofoam being only 5cm thick, meant I had to cut another base of the same size. Using the first base as a template I first drew the outline with a marker pen and then following the same procedure as with the first base, I cut it to size with my scalpel blade.

With both halves of the base cut, I had to make the winding road which meant further cutting of both of the bases. Using a marker of another colour, I drew the cut lines and carefully cut the excess styrofoam with my scalpel blade.

NOTE: if you feel that the cutting is getting heavier, change the blade. Unfortunately, styrofoam is murder on the blades and to have a perfect cut, you need sharp blades.

After the cutting was done, I used a piece of sanding paper to smooth out the irregularities left over from the scalpel blade. The two halves were now complete and I had to glue them together. Using skewers to connect the halves I glued them using PVA glue. I also noticed that at the start of the road the styrofoam was really thin so I stuck a whole skewer through the side of the terrain so it wouldn't break. Also, I protected the begining of the road with masking tape.

With the base glued, I now had to cut the cliffs. Same as last time I used my hot wire cutter to model the vertical surfaces. I again used my cheapest wire cutter, powered by two AA batteries. The electricity from the batteries heats up the wire that then melts the styrofoam performing a perfect straight cut. However, as it heats the wire elongates so you should take into account that fact when fixing the wire to the cutter. If the wire is too long, it will still perform the job, however it won't be as handy and you (like me) will have to stoop to some really fiddly and strange handling of the device in order to get a nice cut. After a bit of fiddling I managed to engrave the errosion patterns with the hot wire cutter.

When the hillside was built, it still looked a bit dull and plain so I decided to make some escarpments along the sides of the cliffs. In order to do so, I needed to build up the volume there. I could have done it using HD styrofoam once again, but I opted against it, choosing to sculpt the escarpments using DAS air drying clay. DAS comes in two versions, white and terracota. Both are equally good, don't crack during the curing period and are reasonably good for sculpting. (Note: you won't be able to sculpt your minis with DAS, but you will be able to model brick or stone walls, cobbled streets and whatnot.) I poured some PVA glue and spread some DAS along the inner and outer sides of the winding road. I then added some clay to the upper level of the base. I also added some volume to the middle of the road with DAS clay as well.

Finally we come to the stage of adding the texture. First, I decided to do the road. Applying a heavy coat of PVA glue, I added some gravel. As always I started with the largest grain and finishing with the smallest grain – sand for chinchillas. I also used the smallest grain on my pumpkin field on top of the base.

The road and field being done, I could now turn to the other horizontal surfaces – mostly the sides of the road. Again, I covered everything with PVA glue and added three or four different types of gravel. The final layer was a bit coaser than chinchilla sand in order to differentiate between the two.

When these were dry, I added pure chinchilla sand to the vertical surfaces of the cliffs. Here I had to make sure the PVA got into the grooves so I diluted the PVA with water in order for it to flow more freely.

I do all my texturing (and flocking for that matter) inside an old trey. This way all the excess material drops into it so I can reuse it later on. Saves money and time on vacuuming.

After the texture was dry, I undercoated the base with a black acrylic mat sprey in my garage. Always sprey in a well ventilated area.

Making the structure

While the texture and undercoat were drying, I proceeded to make the structure of the Undertaker's house. I decided to go for an easier and faster method of building the structure than I used in my old west church build. Unlike the old west church where I first made the wooden frame and then glued each plank separately, here I opted to make the walls from a single piece of 2mm balsa wood. On top of it, I would then glue 2mm thick balsa planks (cca 0,5x3cm). I made sure the wall structure had grooves going in up-down direction while the wall planks were glued going left to right. This way, although the wall is relatively thin, the structure is sturdy enough to withstand gaming abuse without any damage/breakage. As with MDF and styrofoam bases, I first drew the outlines of each wall on the balsa plank using my marker pen. Then I carefully cut each wall. I used my modellers saw for cuts against the grain (perpendicular to it) and used the scalpel blade for cuts going with the grain. When every wall segment was cut, I glued the walls together.

It was now time to cut and model balsa planks. Once again, I used a method similar to the one I used during the old church build. Since I would need a lot of slats of mostly the same size (3cm long) which would require a lot of precise and repeated measuring, I decided to help myself and construct a toos that would be used to cut the slats into desired length - 30 mm long. The geometry of these simple tools would allow fast and precise cutting of the balsa slats and true enough after only half an hour I had cut almost 4 meters of balsa planks.

Once the basic outline of the structure was made, I started gluing the planks. In places where the planks protruded from the walls, I cut them using my scalpel blade. The whole process is fiddly mostly because none of the walls is perpendicular to the other so lots of tayloring was required.

To make the roof structure, I used 2mm thick balsa wood. Once the roof structure was made, I used the same material I used on the church to make the roof – sanding paper cut to size. I just love the texture it has. Once everything was finished, I took both the structure and the base to my garage for a quick sprey of undercoat. Remember to always sprey in a well ventilated area! When the undercoat was dry, I first dryfitted the building to the base, closed the gaps with some balsa planks and applied with a large brush a coat of black colour to the places the sprey didn't reach.

Painting

When the undercoat was dry, it was time to paint the terrain. Normally, I would have glued the building to the base at this point but I decided against it mainly because of the site of the terrain itself. This way I could handle the terrain easier so I left the two parts separate. I started painting the base first. Wanting all my terrain to fit one theme (and consequently one tabletop) it was only natural I use the same colours and colour scheme as on the earlier terrain. Therefore once again I used Pebeo Deco color range. I used Brown (29) for the basecoat and continued drybrushing with Ocre (51). Lighter shades were done with a 50:50 mixture of Ocre (51) and White (41). The final highlight was done with Antique White (69). The road was first basecoated with Brown (29) then heavily drybrushed with Ocre (51) and a 50:50 mixture of Ocre (51) and White (41). The last two highlights were Antique White (69) and pure White (41). This way, I had a visual difference between the cliffs with normal groundwork and the worn out road.

The building has two different surfaces and consequently textures – roof and wooden walls. I proceeded to paint the wooden walls by drybrushing first using a 50:50 mixture of Black (55) and Grey (54). Next layer was pure Grey (54) and the finishing highlight was Ash Brown (70). I was not quite satisfied with the result, so I added another highlight of pure White (41). The roof was painted first with a mixture of Black (55) and Grey (54) and then a mixture of Grey (54) and Antique White (69) finishing with almost a pure coat of Antique White (69). With the base and house painted, I could now glue them together. I used PVA glue to glue the building in place.

Vegetation

After the painting, it was time to add the vegetation to the base. First up, I decided to plant some pine trees. I used Ziterdes ones that come in a big pack of 20 (or 25, not sure). They come on long shafts and in several sizes and heights. In order to glue them in place, I first had to cut their round bases as they got in the way. I also added metal pins to the pine trees. The easiest method of pinning metal pins to the plastic trunks of the trees is to heat the metal pin using a candle and just stick it into the trunk. The heat will melt the plastic locally and as the pin goes into the trunk the heat dissipates and once the pin is cool it will become lodged into the trunk without any need to glue it. Also, I used a pinvice to make the hole in the DAS clay base to accommodate the pins. I glued the trees using both PVA and super glue.

With the trees in place, I could now add the static grass. I made a mixture using several green, brown, yellow and black shades of static grass and when I was satisfied with the end product, I glued it in random patches throughout the base. One thing I made sure of is that I put static grass over any and all of the remaining holes where the wooden structure met the base in order to hide the unintentional mistake. Once the static grass was in place, I applied several shades of different tufts. Again, as in the former articles, I used tufts made by a company called Gamer's Grass.

In the end I added my cool Haloween-ey additions. First up was the pumpkin field. Pumpkins come from Busch, a German model train company that produces excellent terrain accessories, especially in their Natur Pur range (pumpkins, sunflowers, roses, water lillies etc). The set cost about 8USD and has 10 sets of pumpkins with vines and I think it's great value for money. Being an H0 scale, these are in a scale a bit smaller than 32mm minis but the pumpkins come in various sizes so you can even use the smallest pumpkins as tomatos. They already come in different colours so painting required was minimal. When the painting was done, I glued the couple of sets into my pumpkin field using superglue. The second addition was a couple of Jack o'lanterns made by Secret Weapon Miniatures. Set costs about 10 USD and has 10 Jack o'lanterns which is also great value for money. They are full of character and come in several sizes and designs. Unlike Busch, they are created for tabletop miniatures in mind so the scale works perfectly. Being grey these required some painting – using reds and oranges with some black lining. Once I was done with the painting, I glued them randomly along the road and in front of the house for some Haloween feeling. The third addition was the coffin and the lid. They come from an English company called Zealot Miniatures. Among other stuff, they produce excellent resin accessories for dungeons (like doors, trap doors, furniture, fountains etc..). In fact, they recently had quite a successful Kickstarter. I painted the grey resing with brown colours. The final addition to the terrain, which I actually left unglued, was the hearse. It was an old GW Black Coach that I had lying around. I built it using superglue and painted it black with some grey highlights. The reason for leaving it unglued was purely because of easier gaming. With it in the shed, it would prevent models from going around the house. This marked the end of the build and all I had to do was to take some pictures of the finished product.

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Marko Paunović, 6th July 2026

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Mario Grgurev, 6th July 2026

Making of MUMMY dioramas

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I recently was approached by the Historical Museum of Oslo to make three miniature dioramas for their exhibition MUMMY - a display of ancient Egyptian artefacts and mummies. Their requirements were that each of the three dioramas would portray a part of the life of one of the mummies from the exhibition, Dismut, a temple guardian’s daughter. Her Life, her Death and her Afterlife. In addition, they gave the maximum size of the display. This left me a lot of freedom for interpretation and to make the dioramas in my own way and style. In this article I’ll take you through part of my process for developing the three concepts. For a more detailed breakdown of the steps it took to complete the dioramas, see the videos.

My first focus was on the miniatures required. I searched online 3D-file shops to see what was already available. I knew this would be one of my limitations as there was no time or budget to 3D design all objects and characters required for all three dioramas. I found a pack of ancient Egyptian field workers, and so the Life diorama was created with this pack in mind - a tranquil scene by the Nile River, with workers harvesting wheat as Dismut observes from a higher vantage point. This diorama was also an opportunity to include some of the animals featured in the exhibition, so I found a cat and a mouse STL (and later a crocodile as well). As Dismut is not a famous pharaoh, there were obviously no STLs available of her, so I commissioned two 3D sculpts of her, giving me the chance to have her in the exact positions I needed for Life and Afterlife. In Death she would only appear as a mummified figure, easily available online.

I wanted the diorama to read from left to right, as the three dioramas would be displayed one next to the other, so as well as reading the specific Life diorama from left to right, I also wanted the entire display of all three dioramas to lead from left to right. I decided that from left to right the dioramas would also go from light to dark, Life being the lightest in tone and colour and Afterlife the darkest, reflecting the dioramas’ subjects. I decided on the scale for the entire display, around 50mm for humans, as this would be small enough to fit all the elements I needed, but large enough to fill up the dioramas with the amount of elements I found as STL’s and save me some time on not having to paint too many tiny details. I adjusted all STL’s to this scale, and found some realistic wheat plants online at the correct scale as well. And so the concept sketch for the Life diorama came together.

I knew that the Death diorama would be a burial ritual underground. I found a STL pack of several of the objects found in Tutankhamun’s grave, a burial ritual STL pack with two workers carrying a mummy and an ancient Egyptian priest. This would give me the scene. As the dioramas were going to have to be made as cubes, closed on all sides with walls, except for the front, as opposed to the open dioramas on display bases that we are used to, a part of planning each scene was also figuring out how to make the two sides and back panel a natural part of the dioramas. In Life this was an impossible task as no outdoor area is a cube, but I decided on making each side a rocky cliff and hoping the illusion of the scene would make the unaturally geometrical shape of the landscape become less visible. For Death my solution was a roller with Egyptian hieroglyphs. With this I could fill out each wall with historically accurate symbols and this way create interest in the surroundings of the scene as well. And for Afterlife, as this is already a “supernatural” scene, the walls would be bricks, extending the typical art found in Egyptian tombs portraying the Egyptian afterlife of Duat, into a 3D space. Generally I found a lot of inspiration and direction for this entire project from ancient Egyptian art and wall paintings.

The Afterlife diorama would have to have an Osiris character, the Egyptian God of the Dead, overseeing Dismut’s journey to Duat. As all STLs I could find of him had warrior poses, I instead commissioned a seated Osiris figure, as well as the scale that would measure Dismut’s heart against a feather, and thus if she is worthy of the Afterlife. I found a STL of Thoth, taking notes, and thought it suitable for the God judging the dead - in this case Dismut.

After the concepts were approved by the museum, so started a several months long process of getting the MDF walls for the cubes, cutting, carving and gluing XPS foam at the correct angles, sizes and shapes, painting around 40 miniature characters and objects, with airbrush and brush, creating and painting the landscapes, pouring epoxy resin for the Nile River as well as many other smaller and larger tasks. Of the many ideas that came during the making of the dioramas (not reflected in the concept sketches), one that I think especially contributed to the overall look of the final display, was the fact that I decided that each diorama would have its own main colour. Yellow for Life, sun and desert, Red for Death, underground an earthy, and Blue for Afterlife, cold and melancholic. This would differentiate the dioramas from each other even when being viewed from a distance, as well as give a natural progression from warm to cold, another way to add contrast and make the dioramas read in my preferred direction, from left to right. This was achieved most obviously through the choice of oil colours used to shade the three dioramas. Apart from that, the acrylic paints chosen are the same for all three dioramas, giving a cohesion of colour as well as being based on the available pigments they would have had at the time in Ancient Egypt - mineral pigments like lapis lazuli, red and ochre, soot for black, copper compounds for blue and green and synthetic pigments like Egyptian blue.

The final result is displayed here and will also be on display at Oslo’s Historical Museum for the foreseeable future. If you visit the city, make sure to stop by and have a look at the final display.

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Nedavno me kontaktirao Povijesni muzej u Oslu da izradim tri minijaturne diorame za njihovu izložbu MUMIJA - prikaz drevnih egipatskih artefakata i mumija. Njihovi zahtjevi bili su da svaka od tri diorame prikazuje dio života jedne od mumija s izložbe, Dismut, kćeri čuvara hrama. Njezin život, smrt i zagrobni život. Osim toga, dali su maksimalnu veličinu prikaza. To mi je ostavilo puno slobode za interpretaciju i izradu diorama na moj vlastiti način i stil. U ovom članku provest ću vas kroz dio svog procesa razvoja triju koncepata. Za detaljniji pregled koraka potrebnih za dovršetak diorama pogledajte videozapise.

Moj prvi fokus bio je na potrebnim minijaturama. Pretražio sam online trgovine s 3D datotekama kako bih vidio što je već dostupno. Znao sam da će to biti jedno od mojih ograničenja jer nije bilo vremena ni proračuna za 3D dizajn svih predmeta i likova potrebnih za sve tri diorame. Pronašao sam skupinu drevnih egipatskih poljskih radnika, pa je diorama Život nastala imajući tu skupinu na umu - mirna scena uz rijeku Nil, s radnicima koji žanju pšenicu dok Dismut promatra s više točke. Ova diorama bila je i prilika za uključivanje nekih životinja predstavljenih na izložbi, pa sam pronašao mačku i miša u STL-u (a kasnije i krokodila). Budući da Dismut nije poznati faraon, očito nije bilo dostupnih STL-ova za nju, pa sam naručio dvije 3D skulpture, što mi je dalo priliku da je imam u točnim položajima koji su mi bili potrebni za Život i Zagrobni život. U Smrti bi se pojavila samo kao mumificirana figura, lako dostupna online.

Želio sam da se diorama čita slijeva nadesno, budući da bi se tri diorame prikazale jedna pored druge, pa sam, osim što se specifična diorama Života čita slijeva nadesno, također želio da cijeli prikaz sve tri diorame ide slijeva nadesno. Odlučio sam da će diorame slijeva nadesno ići od svijetlog prema tamnom, pri čemu će Život biti najsvjetliji po tonu i boji, a Zagrobni život najtamniji, odražavajući subjekte diorama. Odlučio sam se za mjerilo za cijeli prikaz, oko 50 mm za ljude, jer bi to bilo dovoljno malo da stanu svi potrebni elementi, ali dovoljno veliko da ispuni diorame količinom elemenata koje sam pronašao kao STL-ove i uštedi mi vrijeme jer ne bih morao slikati previše sitnih detalja. Prilagodio sam sve STL-ove ovom mjerilu i pronašao sam neke realistične biljke pšenice na internetu u ispravnom mjerilu. I tako je nastala konceptualna skica za dioramu Života.

Znao sam da će diorama Smrt biti pogrebni ritual pod zemljom. Pronašao sam STL paket nekoliko predmeta pronađenih u Tutankamonovoj grobnici, STL paket pogrebnog rituala s dva radnika koji nose mumiju i drevnim egipatskim svećenikom. To bi mi dalo scenu. Budući da su diorame morale biti izrađene kao kocke, zatvorene sa svih strana zidovima, osim sprijeda, za razliku od otvorenih diorama na izložbenim postoljima na koje smo navikli, dio planiranja svake scene bio je i smišljanje kako učiniti dvije strane i stražnju ploču prirodnim dijelom diorama. U filmu Život to je bio nemoguć zadatak jer nijedno vanjsko područje nije kocka, ali odlučio sam svaku stranu napraviti kao stjenovitu liticu i nadao se da će iluzija scene učiniti neprirodno geometrijski oblik krajolika manje vidljivim. Za Smrt moje rješenje bio je valjak s egipatskim hijeroglifima. S tim sam mogao ispuniti svaki zid povijesno točnim simbolima i na taj način stvoriti interes i za okolinu scene. A za Zagrobni život, budući da je ovo već „natprirodna“ scena, zidovi bi bili od cigli, proširujući tipičnu umjetnost pronađenu u egipatskim grobnicama koje prikazuju egipatski zagrobni život Duata u 3D prostor. Općenito sam pronašao mnogo inspiracije i smjernica za cijeli ovaj projekt u drevnoj egipatskoj umjetnosti i zidnim slikama.

Diorama zagrobnog života morala bi imati lik Ozirisa, egipatskog boga mrtvih, koji nadgleda Dismutovo putovanje u Duat. Budući da su svi STL-ovi koje sam mogao pronaći o njemu imali ratničke poze, umjesto toga sam naručio sjedeću figuru Ozirisa, kao i vagu koja bi mjerila Dismutovo srce u odnosu na pero, te time utvrdila je li dostojna zagrobnog života. Pronašao sam STL Thotha, bilježio i smatrao sam da je prikladan za Boga koji sudi mrtvima - u ovom slučaju Dismuta.

Nakon što je muzej odobrio koncepte, započeo je višemjesečni proces nabave MDF zidova za kocke, rezanja, rezbarenja i lijepljenja XPS pjene pod ispravnim kutovima, veličinama i oblicima, oslikavanja oko 40 minijaturnih likova i predmeta airbrushom i kistom, stvaranja i oslikavanja pejzaža, izlijevanja epoksidne smole za rijeku Nil, kao i mnogih drugih manjih i većih zadataka. Od mnogih ideja koje su se pojavile tijekom izrade diorama (koje nisu odražene u skicama koncepta), jedna za koju mislim da je posebno doprinijela ukupnom izgledu konačnog prikaza bila je činjenica da sam odlučio da će svaka diorama imati svoju glavnu boju. Žuta za život, sunce i pustinju, crvena za smrt, podzemlje i zemljanost, a plava za zagrobni život, hladnu i melankoličnu. To bi razlikovalo diorame jednu od druge čak i kada se gledaju iz daljine, kao i dalo prirodan prijelaz od toplog prema hladnom, još jedan način dodavanja kontrasta i da se diorame čitaju u mom željenom smjeru, slijeva nadesno. To je najočitije postignuto odabirom uljanih boja korištenih za sjenčanje triju diorama. Osim toga, akrilne boje odabrane su iste za sve tri diorame, što daje koheziju boja, a ujedno se temelji na dostupnim pigmentima koje su imali u to vrijeme u drevnom Egiptu - mineralni pigmenti poput lapis lazulija, crvene i oker boje, čađa za crnu, spojevi bakra za plavu i zelenu te sintetički pigmenti poput egipatske plave.

Konačni rezultat je ovdje izložen i bit će izložen u Povijesnom muzeju u Oslu u doglednoj budućnosti. Ako posjetite grad, svakako navratite i pogledajte konačni postav.

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Sebastian Søgård, 17th June 2026

Miniature Painting Workshop - 75mm Dwarf

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    string(40) "Miniature Painting Workshop - 75mm Dwarf"
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	On 09-10.05.2026. we held a new weekend miniature painting workshop. This time it was the turn of a dwarf in 75mm scale.

	

	




The workshop was held over two days (a whole weekend) and the participants painted a 75mm miniature dwarf. The focus of these lectures was painting various textures - metal, human skin, textiles and leather. Water-based acrylic paints were used in the workshop. For this purpose, the workshop leader, Ivan Knezović, chose a 75mm miniature dwarf from Durgin Paint Forge, sculpted by Carlos Perez Bugedo. The lectures were adapted so that the leader devotes equal time to all participants and can be adapted to all categories of miniaturists (from beginners to slightly more advanced).



	

	

	

	


The workshop took place as follows:

	First, the lecturer sits at his desk and explains and demonstrates each step in painting a miniature/model on his specimen. His work is displayed on a screen via a camera and projector, which the participants listen to, watch, and ask questions about.

	Then, the participants sit at their desks and apply the knowledge they have gained. The facilitator circulates among the participants and checks how each participant is doing. This way, he or she can adapt to each participant individually.




	

	

	

	The workshop will include the following thematic units:

	1. NMM (Non metallic metal)

2. Reflections of ambient colors on metal

3. Steel / gold

4. Face painting (male)

5. Adding vibrancy to the face (filters)

6. Extracting textures from fabric, metal and leather

	

	

	POWERED BY: Carta Magica, Fireball Figurines, Durgin Paint Forge, Playsupport
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	09-10.05.2026. smo održali novu vikend Radionicu bojanja minijatura. Ovoga puta na redu je bio patuljak u 75mm mjerilu.

	

	Radionica se provodila kroz dva dana (cijeli vikend) i polaznici su bojali 75mm minijaturu patuljka. Fokus ovih predavanja bilo je bojenje raznih tekstura – od metala, ljudske kože, tekstila i kože (leather). U sklopu radionice korištene su akrilne boje na bazi vode. U tu svrhu, voditelj radionice, Ivan Knezović, izabrao je 75 mm minijaturu patuljka tvrtke Durgin Paint Forge, koju je sculptao Carlos Perez Bugedo. Predavanja su prilagođena tako da voditelj posveti jednako vrijeme svim polaznicima i može se prilagoditi svim kategorijama minijaturista (od početnika do malo naprednijih).

	

	

	

	Radionica se odvijala na sljedeći način:

	Prvo, predavač sjedi za svojim stolom te objašnjava i demonstrira pojedini korak u bojanju minijature/makete na svojem primjerku. Njegov rad se preko kamere i projektora prikazuje na platnu što polaznici slušaju, gledaju, ali i postavljaju pitanja.

	Potom, polaznici sjedaju za svoje stolove i primjenjuju stečeno znanje. Voditelj kruži između polaznika i provjerava kako svakom polazniku ide. Na taj način, može se prilagoditi svakom polazniku ponaosob.

	

	

	

	Radionica će uključivati sljedeće tematske cjeline:

	1. NMM (Non metallic metal)

	2. Refleksije boja iz okoline na metalu

	3. Čelik / zlato

	4. Bojanje lica (muškog)

	5. Dodavanje živosti na lice (filteri)

	6. Izvlačenje tekstura tkanine, metala i kože (leather)

	

	

	POWERED BY: Carta Magica, Fireball Figurines, Durgin Paint Forge, Playsupport
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