UMS "Agram" : DISPLAY BASE FOR CHAOS ARMY < Articles < Hobby

DISPLAY BASE FOR CHAOS ARMY

Tomislav Petrović, 20th July 2021

Since my brother went to Krems this year (editor's note: 2005) for the second time for the Austrian Championship, and the display base is one of the conditions for the community there to participate in the tournament, here's how I put in the effort and made one.

To clarify one thing, display bases (hereinafter DB) that are made in such a way that a certain surface is flocked, painted, maybe some extra features, and the figures are placed on it is for me a halfassed solution - in short, a lot of work for something that looks average. I consider a DB to be da bomb when each unit or individual figure has its own slot in which it is placed so that the surface of the base of the figure is flush with the surface of the DB.

Dissatisfied with the fact that the DB created in this way is useful while the list for which it was made is current, I decided to make a display base that will be applicable to each list (at least its main part), and only the surface will change - when you go deeper into the text , you will understand what I meant.

1. Found a suitable board (2 cm thick)

2. Since my rectangular shape is too ordinary, I decided to complicate things a bit and make a non-real octagon (by that I mean 4 sides of the same length). I made a draft and transferred it to the board:

3. I got rid of the excess with a jigsaw, so now the DB has a shape in which the angles are under 150 degrees, 4 sides 30 cm long, and the other four 14 cm + a couple of millimeters, which will later be removed by planing and grinding.

Tip: Never cut the board to the desired dimension but leave 2-4 mm due to the above procedures later:

4. I also cut a 4 mm thick plywood board to the same shape (the figure bases are 4 mm thick):

5. I made 4 holes in the board and plywood with a drill, which will later be fitted with screws that will fix the plywood to the main board:

6. Then I widened the holes on the plywood so that the nut would fit in them. I used screws fi = 5 mm and the nut for them is 4 mm thick so it won’t protrude beyond the plywood. After that, the joint between the nut and the plywood is well sanded with super glue, making sure that the glue does not go on the thread because it could later interfere with the screw:

Tip: Since the nut in the board must be fixed, it is desirable to drill a 1 mm smaller hole, and then drive it into the board with a hammer and brutal force.

7. After the nut is fixed, for the first time the plywood and the main plate are connected with screws in order to determine how long the screw needs to be and to remove the excess:

It looks like this:

8. After the screw was shortened to the appropriate length, I covered the nuts on the top of the plywood board with masking tape so that I could texture that surface later.

9. After that I joined the boards and due to the inaccuracy in cutting the boards and drilling the holes the edges looked like this:

10. In order to achieve that the edges match, the excess needs to be planed, and then finely sanded. After this procedure the condition is as follows:

11. After processing the edges with a vibrating grinder, I sanded all the surfaces on the plywood and the main board:

12. The next and most demanding step is to place the decorative moldings on the edges of the board. I took 3x3 cm high / wide corner skirting boards for parquet length of 2 m. The skirting board is coated with wood fix, joined to the board, and then I additionally fastened it with nails:

13. After installing the moldings the whole thing looks like this:

14. As the angle on the legs of the molding is not right, but it is cut obliquely, it happened that I have a "groove" on the lower side between the molding itself and the plate. This proved to be a happy coincidence because knowing your brother (a man is able to tear a steel ball) any extra fixation comes in handy. I filled the grooves with hot glue using a gun (I guess you know which tool I'm talking about):

15. As I approached the plane of the board and molding any excess glue that might protrude over that plane I straightened with a spatula while the glue was hot and liquid. After gluing, the underside of the board looks like this:

16. Since I don't have the right tools (saw stand)), I had to determine the angles of 150 degrees between the moldings by eye only, and especially because I'm not a carpenter, the next thing happened:

17. I sanded the joints to get rid of the protruding parts, and I cracked the cracks between the moldings using carpentry putty and left it to dry overnight. The next day I sanded the putty with fine sandpaper to make a perfect transition between the two strips and the putty and so that after painting everything together I would not see the difference between the putty and the wooden part.:

18. Now it's time to paint. I protected the moldings with protective tape:

19. Then I painted the board between the moldings with black matt spray and left it to dry:

20. After that, it was time to paint the moldings. I protected the previously painted black surface with a protective tape:

21. I used brown wood paint with integrated varnish which, in addition to protecting, also gives a gloss effect. I took a darker shade (rosewood) because the darker color covers the putty better.

Tip: Apply the first coat only on putty parts and wait for the paint to dry well. After that, in the second painting, paint the complete moldings. Two or three coats of well-smeared coat should be enough for a nice coverage - of course, between each coat you should wait for the previous one to dry well:

22. A few more small details and the main board is ready. I bought wood wallpaper for the underside of the DB - black wallpaper with rings - it definitely looks the most convincing and least cheap:

23. After installing the wallpaper, the underside of the DB looks like this:

24. The final job on the DB main panel is varnishing the screws and black so that the metal head of the screw does not look ugly on the black wallpaper:

25. Now it's the plywood board's turn. I placed the unite on it and marked the parts to be removed according to them:

26. After that, I drilled holes in the corners for cutting with a jigsaw:

27. After cutting the excess and sanding the plywood looks like this:

Tip: When cutting, it is good to make sure and make a 1 mm bigger hole for the bases, because if you cut too small a hole later, it is a real pain to grind the part that bothers you so that the base fits nicely into the hole.

28. The next step is to text the plywood. I will not talk too much about this because the procedure is the same as when texturing the most ordinary terrain:

29. Since the Austrians also demand some extra feature on the DB, we decided to make a monolith dedicated to the nurgle god. I cut it out of a piece of wood, processed it by planing and grinding, and then made indentations with a flexor. The flexor may be an unorthodox tool for making models (especially if they are made of wood), but it is very effective. The dead-line that hung dangerously on my back at that stage of making DB makes all sorts of ideas fall through in order to speed up the work:

30. Later we decorated the monolith with, for a nurgle, the characteristic three circles arranged in a triangle using large screw plates, added waterlogging heads from chaos tank sprue, added a tray made of half a plug of Ax dezic, a hot glue gun made slime leaking waterlogged from the mouth into the tray and then overflowing over the edge and dripping down the monolith to the base. Relatively simple special feature, and yet in the spirit of the military. I fixed the monolith with wood fix and plywood nails and when everything was in place I undercoated with black matt spray:

That in short (well, not very short) would be that.

The point is that one day, when the list is changed, this plywood is replaced with another plywood, which will be cut according to a template that matches the new list, with maybe some new feature instead of a monolith to refresh the impression a bit, and the base itself to be further usable.

I hope that the text is clear enough and that there are enough pictures and that those who will one day want to make their DB, but are not sure where to start and how to finish the job will benefit from this text.

P.S.

Still, a few words of warning because not everything is as simple as the text suggests.

FIRST

The circular saw is a dangerous tool, and I definitely have no luck with it. A year ago, he almost tore off my left index finger. This time, fortunately, she was excluded, but even then she showed her insidious nature (a sharp knife that looks benign while static).

SECOND :

I don’t know about you, but the mess I leave behind in creative ecstasy is, to put it mildly, terrifying. I think I’ll avoid the basement for a while because I get depressed every time I see how much cleaning awaits me.

Ok, I’m finally done writing.

Latest articles

We attended: Monte San Savino 2025

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Our Ivan brings you a report from the best miniature painting competition in the world.

In a small town in Italy, one of the largest and most prestigious miniature exhibitions in the world has been held every year since 2006, bringing together miniaturists from all over the world. The Knezović clan decided that it was a shame that Croatians did not come to the Monte San Savino Show, so after a great time at Kontrast, a miniature exhibition in Warsaw, we decided to visit Italy as well.

The exhibition is held in Tuscany, and all the content related to it is located within the walls of the castle around which most of the town is located. The exhibition is set in an exceptionally beautiful setting of a medieval castle, with which no other similar miniature event can be compared. The town itself allows visitors to easily get to know each other, as most of them gravitate to the square in the center of the castle.

We set off on Friday, November 14, 2025, and it took us about eight hours to get to our accommodation. Italian motorways are good, but Italians themselves often don't know what lanes are for or how to use turn signals. Large trucks often swerved left and right, and drivers usually only turned on their turn signals after they had finished changing lanes. Fortunately, none of the miniatures were damaged in transit. The Patafix and plastic box are more than enough protection for the models.

We distributed a large number of flyers in the hope that some of the visitors would come to our Black Queen, and some even promised us that they would (try to) come. We also awarded the UMS Agram Best of Show medal. We did not proceed in a "judgmental" manner, but rather we sought the work (or works) of a miniaturist that we enjoy the most. I have long appreciated Magnus Fagerberg's works and have often used them as references in my own work. They were even better in person, which is usually the case with all top-notch works. Therefore, UMS Agram presented Magnus, in addition to the Best of Show medal, with a terranino to accompany the Monograph on our work.

The exhibition itself featured the best works that we usually see on social networks, and there were about 2,000 of them in total. Almost all of the winners of this year's Golden Demon also brought their models to Monte San Savino.

The results we achieved were very good, considering the exceptionally high average quality of the works. Filip won one gold with his works in the Storytelling Standard category, while I (Ivan) won one bronze in the Storytelling Master category and one bronze in the Fantasy Painting Master category.

I'll leave the best part of the article for last, photos of some of the models we saw. Filip has since learned how to use a macro lens, so I'd say the photos turned out great.

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Naš Ivan vam donosi reportažu sa najboljeg natjecanja u bojanju minijatura na svijetu.

U malom gradiću u Italiji svake se godine, još od 2006., održava jedna od najvećih i najprestižnijih izložbi minijatura na svijetu, koja okuplja minijaturiste iz cijeloga svijeta. Klan Knezović zaključio je da je šteta što na Monte San Savino Show ne dolaze Hrvati, pa smo nakon odličnog provoda na Kontrastu, izložbi minijatura u Varšavi, odlučili posjetiti i Italiju.

Izložba se održava u Toskani, a svi sadržaji vezani uz nju smješteni su unutar zidina dvorca oko kojeg se nalazi veći dio mjesta. Izložba je postavljena u iznimno lijepom ambijentu srednjovjekovnog dvorca, s kojim se ne može usporediti nijedan drugi sličan minijaturistički događaj. Sam gradić omogućuje posjetiteljima da se lako upoznaju, jer većina njih gravitira trgu u središtu dvorca.

Na put smo krenuli u petak, 14. studenoga 2025., te smo putovali oko osam sati do našeg smještaja. Talijanske autoceste su dobre, ali sami Talijani nerijetko ne znaju čemu služe prometne trake ili kako se koriste žmigavci. Veliki kamioni često su lelujali lijevo–desno, a vozači su pokazivače smjera uglavnom uključivali tek nakon što bi već završili prestrojavanje. Nijedna minijatura srećom nije nastradala u prijevozu. Patafix i plastična kutija sasvim su dovoljna zaštita za modele.

Podijelili smo veći broj letaka u nadi da će dio posjetitelja doći na naš Black Queen, a neki su nam čak i obećali da će (pokušati) doći. Dodijelili smo i UMS Agram Best of Show medalju. Nismo se vodili „sudački“, nego smo tražili rad (ili radove) jednog minijaturista u kojima najviše uživamo. Već dugo cijenim radove Magnusa Fagerberga i često sam ih koristio kao reference u vlastitom radu. Uživo su bili još bolji, što je u pravilu slučaj sa svim vrhunskim radovima. Stoga je UMS Agram Magnusu, uz Best of Show medalju, poklonio i jedan teranino za uz Monografiju o našem radu.

Na samoj izložbi mogli su se vidjeti najbolji radovi koje inače viđamo na društvenim mrežama, a ukupno ih je bilo oko 2000. Gotovo svi pobjednici ovogodišnjeg Golden Demona također su donijeli svoje modele na Monte San Savino.

Rezultati koje smo ostvarili bili su vrlo dobri, s obzirom na iznimno visoku prosječnu kvalitetu radova. Filip je sa svojim radovima u kategoriji Storytelling Standard osvojio jedno zlato, dok sam ja (Ivan) osvojio jednu broncu u kategoriji Storytelling Master i jednu broncu u kategoriji Fantasy Painting Master.

Za kraj ostavljam onaj najbolji dio članka, fotografije nekih od modela koje smo vidjeli. Filip je u međuvremenu izučio korištenje makro leće pa su fotografije rekao bih odlično ispale.

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Marko Paunović, 24th November 2025

Science behind Acrylic Paints

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In this article, our Dunja takes us behind the science of acrylic paints!

Acrylic paints – high pigment content and good coverage. If they are well formulated, they stay where you apply them, don't leave "brush marks" and dry slowly enough to do what you want on the miniature, yet still fast enough.

Composition:

Binders (eng. resin) – form a film – in our case probably pure acrylates, I suspect they are styrene acrylates.
Fillers – in addition to adding volume to the paint, they also affect the viscosity, coverage and appearance of the dry film
Pigments – the main division is into organic pigments and inorganic pigments. Inorganic ones are more covering but have less vivid shades, while organic ones are often quite poorly covering (yellow for example) but their shades are vivid and bright

Additives:

Anti-foam
Rheological modifiers – affect the behavior of wet paint on the substrate (e.g. spillage) and the behavior of the paint when a force is applied to it (brush, roller, spray, airbrush). Rheological modifiers also include thickeners that affect the viscosity of the paint.
Dispersants – envelop pigment and filler particles and prevent their agglomeration during standing. Good dispersion of pigment and filler affects the coverage and uniform appearance of the dry film. There are a bunch more but I won't go into too much detail
Solvent – in this case water.

Contrast paints and speed paints – high pigment content, but not so much that it causes high coverage. They are formulated to spread, not to stay where you put them. The result of spreading is that the paint collects in the recesses, where a thicker film of paint remains than on the protruding parts of the miniature. Where the film of paint is thicker (the recesses), the shade of the contrast paint is more pronounced, unlike on the protruding parts where the film is thinner, which is why the shade is then influenced by the color of the substrate.

Composition:

Binders
Pigments
Additives – all listed above + surfactants that reduce the surface tension of the wet paint film, which is why it flows
solvent
I would say they do not contain fillers, or contain very, very little of them

Washes – similar in formulation and behavior to contrast agents, only they have a much lower proportion of pigments, certainly no fillers, a higher proportion of surfactants, lower viscosity, and probably less binders.

If we want to greatly dilute acrylic paint or contrast, it is better to use a product intended for this purpose from the manufacturer of that paint rather than water, because it contains all the necessary amount of binders and additives for that paint to retain its properties.

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U ovom članku, naša Dunja nam otkriva znanost iza akrilnih boja.

Akrilne boje – visoki udio pigmenta i dobra pokrivnost. Ako su dobro formulirane ostaju tamo gdje ih naneseš, ne ostavljaju „brush marks“ i suše se dovoljno sporo da stigneš napravit što želiš na minijaturi a opet dovoljno brzo.

Sastav:

Veziva (eng. resin) – formiraju film – u našem slučaju vjerojatno čisti akrilati, sumnjam da su stiren akrilati.
Punila – osim što dodaju volumen boji utječu i na viskoznost, pokrivnost i izgled suhog filma
Pigmenti – glavna podjela je na organske pigmente i anorganske pigmente. Anorganski su više pokrivni ali manje živih nijansi, dok su organski često dosta loše pokrivni (žuti npr) ali zato su im nijanse žive i jarke

Aditivi:

Protiv pjene
Reološki modifikatori – utječu na ponašanje mokre boje na podlozi (npr razlijevanje) i na ponašanje boje dok na nju djeluje sila (kist, valjak, sprej, airbrush). Pod reološke modifikatore spadaju i ugušćivači koji utječu na viskozitet boje.
Dispergatori – obavijaju čestice pigmenata i punila i sprječavaju aglomeraciju istih stajanjem. Dobra dispergiranost pigmenta i punila utječe na pokrivnost i ujednačen izgled suhog filma.
Ima ih još hrpa ali neću toliko u detalje
Otapalo – u ovom slučaju voda.

Kontrastice i speed paints – visoki udio pigmenta, ali ne toliki da uzrokuje visoku pokrivnost. Formulirane su da se razlijevaju, a ne da ostaju tamo gdje ih staviš. Posljedica razlijevanja je skupljanje boje u udubine gdje onda ostane deblji film boje nego na isturenim dijelovima minijature. Tamo gdje je film boje deblji (udubine) nijansa kontrastice izraženija, za razliku od isturenih dijelova na kojima je film tanji zbog čega na nijansu onda utječe boja podloge.

Sastav:

Veziva
Pigmenti
Aditivi – svi nabrojani gore +
surfakanti koji smanjuju površinsku napetost mokrog filma boje zbog čega i dolazi do razlijevanja
otapalo
rekla bih da ne sadrže punila, ili ih sadrže vrlo vrlo malo

Washevi – po principu formuliranja i ponašanju slični kontrasticama, samo imaju puno manji udio pigmenata, sigurno ne sadrže punila, veći udio surfakanata, manji viskozitet i vjerojatno manje veziva.

Ako želimo jako razrijediti akrilnu boju ili kontrasticu bolje je koristiti za to predviđen proizvod od proizvođača te boje nego vodu, jer sadrži svu potrebnu količinu veziva i aditiva kako bi ta boja zadržala svoja svojstva.

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Krunoslav Belinić, 20th November 2025

We attended: ModelMania 2025

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	U subotu 25.10.2025. održao se Foto Video Show & ModelMania Zagreb u Kongresnoj dvorani na Zagrebačkom Velesajmu. UMS Agram je nastupio s prezentacijom rada naših raznih programa poput Advent u Agramu, Agram Group Build, Agram Lego Sekcija i Knjižnica i čitaonica UMS "Agram".

	

	  

	  

	  

	Naši volonteri, Kruno i Marko bili su tamo od 10 ujutro i odgovarali na pitanja s čime se bavimo.

	

	Antoni i Lav su bili zaduženi za demonstriranje stolne strateške igre Gaslands!

	  

	  

	

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	Kruno je držao Back to Basics radionice bojanja minijatura!

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  
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Marko Paunović, 5th November 2025

Necropolis Board part 1

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	In October we started with our first board for Necropolis, and with an appropriate theme! – the Eternal Autumn configuration from the Necropolis rulebook. The configuration is such that it only requires 3 trees, which we considered too boring, so instead of one tree, we plan to build a cubic lime kiln and 2 streams.

	  

	The board is inspired by Hawthorne's story Ethan Brand, where several characters talk about the unforgivable sin (next to a lime kiln in the middle of an American pastoral idyll). Aesthetically, we're aiming for early fall with rural motifs, along with gnarled trees (ala Burton's Sleepy Hollow) and a few pumpkins.

	  

	For now, we are very far from any aesthetic choices because we have dealt with the basic structure of the board: the housing is made of pine glued boards for the floor and pine profiles for the sides. After we glued everything with Drvofix, the entire housing was finely sanded. The size of the Styrodur board that fits into the housing is 40cmx40cmx2cm (Necropolis standard is 16"x16").

	  

	The placement of the stream itself was difficult to choose due to the peculiar, angular deployment in Necropolis, so we used token strings to try out a few potential streams that would least interfere with the game. Although we planned to keep our forest streams shallow, we still carved channels with a scalpel and a rotary multitool and coated the beds with diluted texture paste. While the paste dried, we added various sizes of pebbles and created a transition across the stream with larger pebbles.

	  

	The trees are actually real mangroves, so they have natural knots and twists. To add a Sleepy Hollow feel, we hollowed out a few holes in the wood to house the greenstuff faces. We propped up one tree with pieces of pine bark so it wouldn't lean too much and interfere with play.

	  

	The next step is to cover the entire board with a mixture of gypsum and sand and make the stove itself.

	  
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	U listopadu smo započeli s našim prvim boardom za Necropolis, i to s primjerenom tematikom! – Eternal Autumn konfiguracijom iz Necropolis rulebooka. Konfiguracija je takva da nalaže samo 3 stabla, što smo smatrali predosadnim te umjesto jednog stabla kanimo izraditi kockastu vapnenu peć i 2 potoka.

	  

	Board je inspiriran Hawthorneovom pričom Ethan Brand, gdje nekoliko likova priča o neoprostivom grijehu (pored vapnare usred američke pastoralne idile). Estetski ciljamo na ranu jesen s ruralnim motivima, uz kvrgava stabla (ala Burtonov Sleepy Hollow) i nekoliko bundeva.

	  

	Za sada smo jako daleko od ikakvih estetskih odabira jer smo se nosili s osnovnom građom boarda: kućište je napravljeno od borovih lijepljenih dasaka za podni dio i borovih profila za bočne strane. Nakon što smo sve zalijepili drvofixom, cijelo kućište je fino izbrušeno. Veličina stirodur ploče koja sjeda u kućište je 40cmx40cmx2cm (Necropolis standard je 16“x16“).

	  

	Sami smještaj potoka bilo je teško odabrati zbog osebujnog, kutnog deploymenta u Necropolisu pa smo koristili nizove tokena da isprobamo nekoliko potencijalnih tokova koji bi najmanje ometali igru. Iako planiramo da nam šumski potoci budu plitki, i dalje smo skalpelom i rotirajućim multitoolom izrezbarili kanale i premazali korita razrijeđenom teksturnom pastom. Dok se pasta sušila, ubacili smo razne veličine kamenčića i uspostavili prijelaz preko potoka većim kamenčićima.

	  

	Stabla su zapravo pravo mangrovo drvo, tako da ima prirodne kvrge i zavijutke. Kako bismo dodali sleepy hollow šmek, izdubili smo nekolika rupa u drvu gdje bismo smjestili greenstuff lica. Jedno smo drvo poduprli s komadima borove kore kako ne bi bilo previše nagnuti i ometalo igru.

	  

	Sljedeći korak je prekrivanje cijelog boarda smjesom gipsa i pijeska te izrada same peći.

	  
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Antoni Pastuović, 5th November 2025

WE ATTENDED: AmuletD20 Grand Tournament 2025

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    ["title_eng"]=>
    string(44) "WE ATTENDED: AmuletD20 Grand Tournament 2025"
    ["title_hrv"]=>
    string(50) "NASTUPILI SMO NA:  AmuletD20 Grand Tournament 2025"
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	In early October I had the opportunity to visit my neighbors from the Amuletd20 association. This time it wasn't an artsy Turnip28 event, but a huge tournament in AOS and Conquest games.

	  

	Besides the main event, there were tables playing Kings of War, as well as Warhammer: The Old World, where I came with my Chaos Dwarfs.

	  

	Unfortunately, I think TOW was the least represented with four players, but this little community was wonderful! Players helped each other with the rules and the games were very friendly. In addition to my choirs, there was also an army of High Elves at the event, as well as two armies of Brettons.

	  

	  

	  

	I spent my event fighting the noble knights of Brettonia, and I believe that my dwarves were helped by the atypical mobility obtained from the monsters (Wyverna, Lammasu and Bale Taurus) accompanied by the antithesis of HŽ (Iron Daemon) and a spell that increased the infantry's mobility.

	  

	The Kings of War tables were much more dynamic, with more players, more games, and the waxes themselves were far more diverse. I'm glad that the tables were close so I had the opportunity to hang out with the hosts Luka and Vane.. It was definitely a surprise when our Mario visited us and hung out with us.

	  

	I managed to find enough time to walk around the rest of the event - and it was impressive to see so many players in one place. Amuletd20 really did a phenomenal job for their first event.

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	After the event, we went to the association's premises to socialize a little more. And, if you're curious about what it was like there, come to the next Amulet event yourself, you certainly won't regret it.

	  

	P.S. Many thanks to Luka, Vana and Mita for the invitation and hospitality!
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	Početkom listopada imao sam priliku posjetiti susjede iz udruge Amuletd20. Ovog puta nije bio artsy Turnip28 event, nego ogroman turnir u AOS i Conquest igrama.

	  

	Osim main eventa, bilo je stolova na kojima se igralo i Kings of War, kao i Warhammer: The Old World gdje sam došao sa svojim Chaos Dwarfovima.

	  

	Nažalost, mislim da je TOW bio najslabije zastupljen s četiri igrača, ali je ovaj mali community bio divan! Igrači su si međusobno pomagali s pravilima i partije su bile jako Friendly, Uz moje chorfove, na eventu je bila i jedna vojska High Elfova, kao i dvije vojske Brettonaca.

	  

	  

	  

	Svoj event proveo sam boreći se plemenitim vitezovima Brettonie, a vjerujem da je mojim patuljcima pomogla netipična mobilnost dobivena čudovištima (Wyverna, Lammasu i Bale Taurus) u pratnji antiteze HŽ-a (Iron Daemon) i čarolije koja je pješadiji povećavala mobilnost.

	  

	Na Kings of War stolovima bilo je znatno dinamičnije, više igrača, više partija, a i same vosjke su bile daleko raznolikije. Drago mi je da su stolovi bili blizu pa sam imao priliku družiti se s domaćinima Lukom i Vaneom.. Definitivno iznenađenje je bilo kad nas je naš Mario posjetio i podružio se s nama.

	  

	Uspio sam uhvatiti dovoljno vremena da prošećem i ostatkom eventa - i bilo je impresivno vidjeti toliko igrača na istom mjestu. Amuletd20 je zaista odradio fenomenalan posao za prvi event koji organiziraju.

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	Nakon eventa, otišli smo do prostora udruge podružiti se još malo. A, ako vas zanima kako je tamo bilo, dođite i sami na idući Amuletov event, sigurno nećete požaliti.

	  

	P.S. Veliko hvala Luki, Vani i Miti na pozivu i gostoprimstvu!
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