UMS "Agram" : Necron Destroyer < Articles < Hobby

Necron Destroyer

Tomislav Petrović, 21nd July 2021

On the necron itself, I didn’t perform anything special as far as converting was concerned except adjusting the pose and cutting the left hand holding the rifle. The base is a little more complex. The stone slabs are made of balsa, the barrels are from GW’s 40k accessories sprue, a bit of slime glue, a bit of thick mesh for the fence windows. The light pole is made of Patton 1:35 tank tubes with a combination of Lego bricks, some parts of Apache 1:48 and some other little things.

In the last picture, you can see another feature of this miniature, ie the light pole lamps are bright to point out, or to be precise, the broken lamp hanging on the wires is flashing, and the other whole is just lit. In the vertical barrel there is a 1.5 V LR1 (SN) battery, in the reclining barrel there is a circuit that controls the oscillating diode, and below the "ground" there is a circuit that allows the second diode with a voltage characteristic of 3V to light connected to 1.5V. There is a microswitch on the lighting pole itself, which turns the diodes on and off as desired.

The most common comments on my luminous necron were, "How could you?"

I guess most people are not up to digging on the net and looking for schemes, spending money on electricity. elements, burns from a soldering iron, etc., but in case there is someone interested in adding light effects to their miniatures or a private collection of terrain, here are a few pictures and some useful tips.

To assemble an assembly that allows the LED to light or flash, you need the following elements:

-LED (light emitting diode) of 3V diameter according to your wishes (there are 3mm, 5mm ...)
-electrolytic capacitor of 100 microfarads and 63V
-capacitor depending on the flicker speed you want to achieve (0.01 microfarad gives a flicker frequency of 1Hz, 0.001 microfarads of 10Hz, etc.)
-voltage converter ICL7660 or ICL 7660S (integrated circuit)
-housing for voltage converter
-insulated wire for connecting elements
-1.5 V battery

-tools: pliers cutters, soldering iron, soldering wire, not necessary but sometimes a voltmeter / ammeter comes in handy.

These elements are connected according to the following scheme:

VOLTAGE CONVERTER (ICL 7660 or ICL 7660S):

The first thing to know is how to determine which pin is on the voltage converter - Place it in front of you so that the point / hole on the top of the integrator is on the left. The integrator has eight pins and they go in this order: bottom row from left to right 1-4, top row from right to left 5-8. ()

Another important thing about integrators is that they are very sensitive to high temperatures. Since the soldering iron develops approx. 180-420 C, direct soldering to the integrator pins will probably burn it out. Instead, obtain an integrator housing with eight pin holes and solder everything to the housing pins, and when the soldering is complete, insert the integrator into the housing.

ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITOR (C2):

It has its two legs, one of which is + pole and the other-pole. Minus the pole is marked on the el. capacitor. It is very important to connect it exactly as it is drawn in the diagram, ie + half of the condom on pin 2 of the integrator, and - half of the condo on pin 4 of the integrator. This is important because electrolytic capacitors, unlike ordinary ones, are precharged to a certain voltage (in our case to 63V) and in the case of a wrong connection when they are connected to the power supply, they explode.

CAPACITOR (C1):

Unlike electrolytic ones, ordinary ones are not precharged, they have an air gap and not electrolytes, and it doesn't matter which pin you connect to pin 7 and which to pin 8. Take care only of the oscillation frequency you want to achieve.

LED:

LEDs are semiconductor elements that emit light when they are powered. The advantage of LEDs over light bulbs is that they consume much less electricity and do not burn out. The LED has two electrodes, the anode is longer (+), and the cathode is shorter (-). The anode is connected to the positive pole of the source and the cathode to the negative. In the case of a reverse connection, nothing will most likely happen to the LED, but it will not light up either.

Similar to integrated circuits and LEDs, they are sensitive to high temperatures and can burn out during prolonged soldering. I advise you to stick the pliers to the electrode you are currently soldering (between the tip of the LED and the place you are soldering) when soldering the LEDs. In this way, the pliers will serve you not only to hold but also to dissipate heat.

The diagram still shows an element marked R1 and is drawn intermittently. It’s a photodiode and it serves to keep the LED from shining in daylight - for some sort of battery saving. Feel free to take it out of the circuit, but rather add a switch between pin 3 and the half of the battery so that you can turn off and turn on the LEDs as desired.

This circuit allows the LEDs to vibrate at a certain frequency. If you want your LED to light up constantly, simply remove capacitor C1 from the circuit and connect everything else.

The advantage of this circuit is that it allows the LEDs provided for a 3V power supply to be lit only at 1.5V. This in turn gives a greater choice of suitably small batteries.

In the end for those who put in the effort and read the entire post to the end, this seems harder and more complicated than it really is. I tried to write explanations so that the circuit can be assembled by someone who has no idea what a capacitor is, for example. Honestly, I don't fully understand some things either (what exactly does C2 do in the circle: -k). My point is, if you have never done anything like this, it is still enough to buy the elements and connect them as shown in the picture and to illuminate for example the landing drop for 40k.

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SFRJ 1986 v2 Diorama part 5

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	In this series of articles, we will follow my work on a new diorama, another in the 1986 series. This time I have again decided to use a former country. Another version of the SFRY 1986.

	  

	So far I have finished making the base, painting the base, painting the interior of the vehicle and painting the figures. Now it's time to add the vegetation

	  

	The pines/trees were already fixed to the base before painting, so the first vegetation I added was tall shrubs that filled the volume of the base.

	  

	Then I added lower vegetation like tall grass and lower bushes.

	  

	Finally, I added some short grass, making sure when I was making the parking lot and path that there was no vegetation in the places where the wheels pass.

	  

	The paint on the base has just dried up, so next time I'll add the vegetation.

	  

	When the diorama is turned to the back, the volume of the forest is visible.

	  

	Before placing the vehicles and miniatures on the base, the diorama looks like this.

	  
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	U ovoj seriji članaka pratit ćemo moj rad na novoj diorami, još jednoj u nizu serijala 1986. Ovaj put sam se opet odlučio za bivšu državu. Druga verzija SFRJ 1986..

	  

	Do sada sam završio s izradom baze, bojanjem baze, bojanjem interijera vozila i bojanjem figura. Sada je došlo vrijeme za dodavanje vegetacije

	  

	Borovi/drveće je već bilo fiksirano na bazu prije bojanja pa je prva sljedeća vegetacija bila visoko žbunje kojim sam popunio volumen baze.

	  

	Potom sam dodao niže raslinje poput visoke trave i nižeg grmlja.

	  

	Na kraju sam dodao i nisku travu pri čemu sam pazio kad sam radio ugibalište i puteljak da vegetacije ne bude na mjestima gdje prolaze kotači.

	  

	Kada se dioramu okrene, vidi se volumen vegetacije u šumi. 

	

	Prije postavljanja vozila i minijatura, diorama izgleda ovako:

	
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Marko Paunović, 19th January 2026

SFRJ 1986 v2 Diorama part 4

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	In this series of articles, we will follow my work on a new diorama, another in the 1986 series. This time I have again decided to use a former country. Another version of the SFRY 1986.

	  

	After the base and the vehicles, I started painting the miniatures. Two policemen and a truck driver. The first step was the base color – black and then white..

	  

	After that, I started with the basic colors, concentrating a little more on the truck driver..

	  

	Considering the year and location of the action, I decided that his jacket should have the logo from the 1984 Sarajevo Winter Olympics..

	  

	Then I threw myself at the policemen..

	  

	The paint on the base has just dried up, so next time I'll add the vegetation.
"
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	U ovoj seriji članaka pratit ćemo moj rad na novoj diorami, još jednoj u nizu serijala 1986. Ovaj put sam se opet odlučio za bivšu državu. Druga verzija SFRJ 1986..

	  

	Nakon baze i vozila, bacio sam se na bojanje minijatura. Dva milicajca i vozač kamiona. Prvi korak je bila temeljna boja – crna pa bijela.

	  

	Nakon toga, krenuo sam s osnovnim bojama, malo više se koncentrirajući na vozača kamiona.

	  

	S obzirom na godinu i mjesto radnje, odlučio sam se da mu jakna ima logo od ZOI Sarajevo 1984.

	  

	Zatim sam se bacio na milicajce.

	  

	Taman se tako nekako osušila i boja na bazi pa ću sljedeći puta obraditi i dodavanje vegetacije.
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Marko Paunović, 19th January 2026

SFRJ 1986 v2 Diorama part 3

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	In this series of articles, we will follow my work on a new diorama, another in the 1986 series. This time I have again decided to use a former country. Another version of the SFRY 1986.

	  

	As I announced last time, it's time to get down to the vehicles. The first thing I did was disassemble the models and take out the interiors of all three vehicles.

	  

	As you can see in the picture, the interior of the vehicle is poorly or not at all painted, so a lot of attention and time was spent there. I painted the upholstery in shades of gray, or brown on the Tristač. I brought out the details on the dashboard and around the gearbox.

	  

	There was something missing from the start on the Fićo, but I couldn't figure out what it was until Kruno pointed out to me that the flashing lights were missing. I fixed that with a small 3mm clear LED that I painted in Tamiya Clear Blue with a silver edge.

	  

	This completes the painting of the vehicles’ interior.

	  

	The finishing touches are the decorations in the truck's cabin.

	  

	Next time we will continue with painting the figures.
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	U ovoj seriji članaka pratit ćemo moj rad na novoj diorami, još jednoj u nizu serijala 1986. Ovaj put sam se opet odlučio za bivšu državu. Druga verzija SFRJ 1986..

	  

	Kao što sam najavio prošli put, vrijeme je da se bacim na vozila. Prvo što sam napravio jest da sam rastavio modele i izvadio unutrašnjost sva tri vozila

	  

	Kako je vidljivo na slici, unutrašnjost vozila je slabo ili nikako obojana stoga je tu otišlo mnogo pažnje i vremena. Tapecirunge sam obojao u sive nijanse, odnosno u smeđe na tristaču. Izvukao sam detalje na komandnim pločama te oko mjenjača.

	  

	Na fićeku mi je otpočetka nešto falilo, ali nisam mogao skužiti što dok mi Kruno nije skrenuo pažnju da fali rotirka. Nju sam sredio pomoću jedne male 3mm prozirne LED koju sam obojao u Tamiya Clear Blue sa srebrnim rubom.

	  

	Time je završeno bojanje unutrašnjosti vozila.

	  

	Završni detalji su ukrasi u kabini kamiona.

	  

	Sljedeći put nastavljamo sa bojanjem figura.

	 
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Marko Paunović, 19th January 2026

SFRJ 1986 v2 Diorama part 2

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	In this series of articles, we will follow my work on a new diorama, another in the 1986 series. This time I have again decided to use a former country. Another version of the SFRY 1986.

	  

	Last time I explained how I created the terrain, and this time I'll be painting the terrain. The terrain itself consists of several parts: an asphalt road, a turnoff and path, and the terrain in the forest.

	  

	Since I wanted all the surfaces to have similar tones, I decided to paint without a base color, applying the main color immediately. The paint I applied was very thin so it stayed wet for a long time, which allowed me to mix the base colors and get a uniform tone.

	  

	After applying the basic tones, I started shading. I also used the same principle, using quite diluted tones to create unevenness in certain parts of the surface.

	  

	Then I added a layer that I could most simply call wash. A very diluted darker shade of color.

	  

	I applied the final shades using another technique, the simplest one – dry brush.

	  

	While these paints were drying, I was simultaneously disassembling and painting the interior of the car and truck, as well as the figures, which will be the subject of future articles.
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	U ovoj seriji članaka pratit ćemo moj rad na novoj diorami, još jednoj u nizu serijala 1986. Ovaj put sam se opet odlučio za bivšu državu. Druga verzija SFRJ 1986..

	  

	Prošli put sam objasnio kako sam izradio teren, a ovaj put ću se baviti bojanjem terena. Sami teren se sastoji od nekoliko dijelova: asfaltna cesta, ugibalište i puteljak te teren u šumi.

	  

	S obzirom da sam htio da sve površine imaju slične tonove, odlučio sam se bojati bez temeljne boje, nanoseći odmah glavni ton. Boju koju sam nanosio bila je jako razvodnjena tako da je dugo bila mokra i to mi je omogućavalo miješanje osnovnih tonova i dobivanje ujednačene tonove.

	  

	Nakon nanošenja osnovnih tonova, krenuo sam sa nijansiranjem. Također sam radio istim principom, dosta razvodnjene tonove kako bih dobio neujednačenost pojedinih dijelova površine.

	  

	Potom sam dodao sloj koji bih najjednostavnije mogao nazvati wash. Jako razvodnjenu tamniju nijansu boje.

	  

	Završne nijanse sam nanio drugom tehnikom, najjednostavnijom – dry brush.

	  

	Dok su se ove boje sušile, paralelno sam rastavio i bojao unutrašnjost automobila i kamiona te figura što će biti tema sljedećih članaka.
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Marko Paunović, 19th January 2026

SFRJ 1986 v2 Diorama part 1

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	In this series of articles, we will follow my work on a new diorama, another in the 1986 series. This time I have again decided to use a former country. Another version of the SFRY 1986.

	  

	As always, everything starts with an idea. This time, the idea came from a model of an Agrokomerc truck that Bojan brought me from Serbia (where it was published as part of a magazine). The design itself changed a bit over time (the first few months of planning). Initially, it was supposed to be just a truck at a roadside stop. Then the idea came to include the Police. And then I got two police vehicles. Fić and Tristač. Basically, this is the first drawing that started it all.

	  

	The base for the diorama came from Moson, from Buco. A fantastic combination of MDF and Styrodur that allows you to remove the diorama itself, but also to lower the terrain below the base level. I removed the Styrodur base, modeled it a little to get different terrain height levels. I modeled the road from a cork board, and assembled the rest of the terrain from DAS clay and wooden bark.

	  

	Once everything was dry I added texture. Two or three sizes of sand and that was it.

	  

	And when that layer was dry, I used a drill to fix the trees to the back of the base. Since all the trees had tall trunks, I decided to leave them as is and not move them during the painting process.

	  

	That's it for this week. We already have a nice outline of the diorama, and next time we'll continue with painting the base.
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	Kao i uvijek, sve počinje idejom. Ovoga puta, ideja se izrodila iz makete Agrokomercovog kamiona kojeg mi je Bojan dofurao iz Srbije (gdje je izašao u sklopu nekog časopisa). Sami dizajn se malo mijenjao tijekom vremena (prvih par mjeseci planiranja). Otpočetka, trebao je to biti samo kamion na nekom ugibalištu pored ceste. Onda se rodila ideja da stavim i Miliciju. A onda sam nabavio i dva milicijska vozila. Fiću i Tristača. Uglavnom, ovo je prvi crtež od kojeg je sve krenulo.

	  

	Baza za dioramu je došla s Mosona, od Buce. Fantastičan spoj MDFa i stirodura koji omogućava vađenje same diorame, ali i upuštanje terena ispod razine baze. Izvadio sam stirodurnu podlogu, malo je izmodelirao da dobijem razne razine visine terena. Cestu sam izmodelirao iz ploče pluta, a ostatak terena složio od DAS glinamola i drvenih kora.

	  

	Kada se sve osušilo dodao sam teksturu. Dvije ili tri veličine pijeska i to je to.

	  

	A kada se i taj sloj osušio, bušilicom sam fiksirao drveće na stražnji dio baze. S obzirom da su sva stable imala visoka debla, odlučio sam ih ostaviti tako i ne micati ih za process bojanja.

	  

	To je to za ovaj tjedan. Imamo već lijepe obrise diorame, a sljedeći puta nastavljamo sa bojanjem baze.
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Marko Paunović, 19th January 2026

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