Necron Destroyer

Tomislav Petrović, 21nd July 2021

On the necron itself, I didn’t perform anything special as far as converting was concerned except adjusting the pose and cutting the left hand holding the rifle. The base is a little more complex. The stone slabs are made of balsa, the barrels are from GW’s 40k accessories sprue, a bit of slime glue, a bit of thick mesh for the fence windows. The light pole is made of Patton 1:35 tank tubes with a combination of Lego bricks, some parts of Apache 1:48 and some other little things.

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In the last picture, you can see another feature of this miniature, ie the light pole lamps are bright to point out, or to be precise, the broken lamp hanging on the wires is flashing, and the other whole is just lit. In the vertical barrel there is a 1.5 V LR1 (SN) battery, in the reclining barrel there is a circuit that controls the oscillating diode, and below the "ground" there is a circuit that allows the second diode with a voltage characteristic of 3V to light connected to 1.5V. There is a microswitch on the lighting pole itself, which turns the diodes on and off as desired.

The most common comments on my luminous necron were, "How could you?"

I guess most people are not up to digging on the net and looking for schemes, spending money on electricity. elements, burns from a soldering iron, etc., but in case there is someone interested in adding light effects to their miniatures or a private collection of terrain, here are a few pictures and some useful tips.

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To assemble an assembly that allows the LED to light or flash, you need the following elements:

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-LED (light emitting diode) of 3V diameter according to your wishes (there are 3mm, 5mm ...)
-electrolytic capacitor of 100 microfarads and 63V
-capacitor depending on the flicker speed you want to achieve (0.01 microfarad gives a flicker frequency of 1Hz, 0.001 microfarads of 10Hz, etc.)
-voltage converter ICL7660 or ICL 7660S (integrated circuit)
-housing for voltage converter
-insulated wire for connecting elements
-1.5 V battery


-tools: pliers cutters, soldering iron, soldering wire, not necessary but sometimes a voltmeter / ammeter comes in handy.

These elements are connected according to the following scheme:

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VOLTAGE CONVERTER (ICL 7660 or ICL 7660S):

The first thing to know is how to determine which pin is on the voltage converter - Place it in front of you so that the point / hole on the top of the integrator is on the left. The integrator has eight pins and they go in this order: bottom row from left to right 1-4, top row from right to left 5-8. ()

Another important thing about integrators is that they are very sensitive to high temperatures. Since the soldering iron develops approx. 180-420 C, direct soldering to the integrator pins will probably burn it out. Instead, obtain an integrator housing with eight pin holes and solder everything to the housing pins, and when the soldering is complete, insert the integrator into the housing.

ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITOR (C2):

It has its two legs, one of which is + pole and the other-pole. Minus the pole is marked on the el. capacitor. It is very important to connect it exactly as it is drawn in the diagram, ie + half of the condom on pin 2 of the integrator, and - half of the condo on pin 4 of the integrator. This is important because electrolytic capacitors, unlike ordinary ones, are precharged to a certain voltage (in our case to 63V) and in the case of a wrong connection when they are connected to the power supply, they explode.

CAPACITOR (C1):

Unlike electrolytic ones, ordinary ones are not precharged, they have an air gap and not electrolytes, and it doesn't matter which pin you connect to pin 7 and which to pin 8. Take care only of the oscillation frequency you want to achieve.

LED:

LEDs are semiconductor elements that emit light when they are powered. The advantage of LEDs over light bulbs is that they consume much less electricity and do not burn out. The LED has two electrodes, the anode is longer (+), and the cathode is shorter (-). The anode is connected to the positive pole of the source and the cathode to the negative. In the case of a reverse connection, nothing will most likely happen to the LED, but it will not light up either.

Similar to integrated circuits and LEDs, they are sensitive to high temperatures and can burn out during prolonged soldering. I advise you to stick the pliers to the electrode you are currently soldering (between the tip of the LED and the place you are soldering) when soldering the LEDs. In this way, the pliers will serve you not only to hold but also to dissipate heat.

The diagram still shows an element marked R1 and is drawn intermittently. It’s a photodiode and it serves to keep the LED from shining in daylight - for some sort of battery saving. Feel free to take it out of the circuit, but rather add a switch between pin 3 and the half of the battery so that you can turn off and turn on the LEDs as desired.

This circuit allows the LEDs to vibrate at a certain frequency. If you want your LED to light up constantly, simply remove capacitor C1 from the circuit and connect everything else.

The advantage of this circuit is that it allows the LEDs provided for a 3V power supply to be lit only at 1.5V. This in turn gives a greater choice of suitably small batteries.

In the end for those who put in the effort and read the entire post to the end, this seems harder and more complicated than it really is. I tried to write explanations so that the circuit can be assembled by someone who has no idea what a capacitor is, for example. Honestly, I don't fully understand some things either (what exactly does C2 do in the circle: -k). My point is, if you have never done anything like this, it is still enough to buy the elements and connect them as shown in the picture and to illuminate for example the landing drop for 40k.

Latest articles

  • UMS Agram @ 10th Days of Technical Culture
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    U subotu 25.09.2021. u organizaciji Zagrebačke zajednice tehničke kulture održavani su 10. dani tehničke kulture. Priredba je organizirana u Kulturnom centru Dubrava, Dubrava 51a s početkom u 9 sati, a UMS Agram je nastupio sa prezentacijskim štandom na kojem su bile izložene igraće minijature, natjecateljske minijature i diorame, prostorne makete za stolne strateške igre te četiri publikacije u izdanju UMS "Agram".

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    Nakon uvodnih govora predsjednika ZZTK, g.Baturića, razgledali smo i ostale štandove, a najzanimljiviji su ovdje na fotografijama.

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    " ["created"]=> string(19) "2021-09-25 14:07:14" ["modified"]=> string(19) "2021-09-25 14:07:14" } ["Member"]=> array(10) { ["id"]=> string(2) "46" ["group_id"]=> string(1) "2" ["first_name"]=> string(5) "Goran" ["last_name"]=> string(7) "Krunić" ["first_name_mask"]=> string(5) "goran" ["last_name_mask"]=> string(6) "krunic" ["username"]=> string(6) "GoranK" ["password"]=> string(40) "bd911c73eb78686e59996538590c37e24ced47f6" ["born"]=> string(19) "2012-06-05 22:39:00" ["created"]=> string(19) "2012-06-05 22:40:18" } }
    Goran Krunić, 25th September 2021
  • Agram Group Build Project #1 (part 2)
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    MARKO: What to say that my esteemed colleagues haven't said before. In parallel with Kruno, I assembled a bucket and a garbage container. With a little more success (aha, Kruno, back at ya!) Because I finished both the bucket and the container.
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    When Kruno fled and Goran came, we continued our work by assembling the gas cylinders. One bigger and one smaller.
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    Feel free to contact us here if you are interested! We are every Wednesday from 8 pm to 10 pm in KD ZZTK on Trg žrtava fašizma 14.

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    U ovoj seriji članaka pratit ćemo našeg Gorana, Krunu i Marka u izradi diorame smještene u New York / Gotham sredinom ’80-ih godina 20. stoljeća. Dioramu rade u sklopu novog projekta UMS „Agram“ pod nazivom Agram Group Build koji je nastao nakon što je trojac srijedama razgovarao o zajedničkim projektima i kako bi bilo cool okupiti više ljudi srijedama oko rada na zajedničkom nečemu… Iz toga se izrodila ideja o Group Buildovima. Ideja je da svatko nešto odradi na svakom od ta tri projekta - a glavno pravilo (osim da nema pravila) jest da se ne prtlja po tuđem radu. Da svi sudjelujemo i napravimo nekakvo frankensteinovo čudo...

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    Nakon projektiranja bacili smo se u izradu… sklopio sam pola kontejnera za smeće tvrtke Mini Art. Odustao sam na pola zbog kućnih obaveza… predao Marka Goranu i otišao se samopopisati…
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    GORAN: Netom nakon Kruninog odlaska, krenuo sam skidati plastične plinske boce sa okvira (engl. sprue). Ovu aktivnost sam u suradnji s Markom na jednom primjerku uspješno priveo kraju, dočim je on istovremeno na manjem primjerku uspješno isto tako savladao izazovno slaganje - ovo u vlastitom slučaju pripisujem odrađenom treningu trčanja nakon kojeg sam bio poprilično iscrpljen. Sve u svemu, polagan, ali obećavajuć početak, veselim se nastavku suradnje.
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    Kad je Kruno zbrisao, a Goran došao, nastavili smo posao sklapanjem plinskih boca. Jedna veća i jedna manja.
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    Slobodno se ovdje javite ako ste zainteresirani! Nalazimo se svake srijede od 20-22h u KD ZZTK na Trgu žrtava fašizma 14.

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    Marko Paunović, 20th September 2021
  • Agram Group Build Project #1 (part 1)
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    In this series of articles, we will follow our Goran, Kruno and Marko in the making of a diorama set in New York / Gotham in the mid-1980s. Diorama is being built as part of a new UMS "Agram" project called Agram Group Build, which was created after the trio discussed joint projects to be done on Wednesdays and how cool it would be to gather more people to work on something together… This gave birth to the idea of Group Builds... By the end of the year, probably three projects (diorama, some figure and some bust) will be launched so whenever you come and whatever your preference might be, you will have something to do. The idea is for everyone to do something on each of these three projects - the main rule (except that there are no rules) is not to mess with other people's work. That we all participate and make some kind of Frankenstein monster ...

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    Feel free to contact us here if you are interested! We are every Wednesday from 8 pm to 10 pm in KD ZZTK on Trg žrtava fašizma 14.

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    S obzirom da trenutno i dalje ne znamo nista o financijama u 2021 od Grada, trojac je odlučio krenuti sa dioramom ( s obzirom da ona ne zahtjeva dodatna ulaganja - što figura i bista zahtijevaju).

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    Marko Paunović, 20th September 2021
  • Miniature Painting Workshop - Hellboy Bust
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    Radionica bojanja minijatura - bista Hellboya se održala tijekom vikenda 18.-19.09.2021. u kino dvorani Zagrebačke zajednice tehničke kulture na Trgu žrtava fašizma 14. Oba dana radionica je trajala od 10 - 18h i sveukupno je bilo 10 polaznika koji su bojali bistu Hellboya.

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    Radionica se provodila kroz dva dana (cijeli vikend). Glavni fokus ovih predavanja bit će bojanje demonske kože, tekstura grubog tekstila odnosno kožnih dijelova te specijalnih efekata poput OSL. Time vođeni, voditelji su izabrali prikladnu bistu Hellboya. U sklopu radionice, korištene su akrilne boje kao i uljni efekti.
    Predavanja su bila prilagođena tako da su voditelji posvetili jednako vrijeme svim polaznicima i moglii se prilagoditi svim kategorijama minijaturista (od početnika do malo naprednijih). Radionica se odvijala na sljedeći način: Prvo, predavač sjedi za svojim stolom te objašnjava i demonstrira pojedini korak u bojanju minijature/makete na svojem primjerku. Njegov rad se preko kamere i projektora prikazuje na platnu što polaznici slušaju, gledaju, ali i postavljaju pitanja. Potom, polaznici za svojim individualnim stolovima primjenjuju stečeno znanje. Ana i Marko kruže između polaznika i provjeravaju kako svakom polazniku ide. Na taj način, mogu se prilagoditi svakom polazniku ponaosob.

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    Radionica je uključivala sljedeće tematske cjeline:
    1. Postavljanje biste na bazu
    2. Pripremni radovi na bisti te temeljna boja
    3. Bojanje demonske kože
    4. Kožne/tekstilne površine kaputa
    5. Specijalni efekti: OSL akrilima 

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    Tijekom trajanja radionice primjenjivale su se sve propisane EPIDEMIOLOŠKE MJERE:
    Ispravno nošenje maski je bilo obavezno.
    Dezinficijens je bio na raspolaganju svima.
    Od ove godine koristimo kameru i projekcijsko platno kako bismo pokazali rad predavača svim polaznicima bez potrebe da se oni okupljaju oko predavača što omogućava socijalnu distancu.
    Svaki polaznik imao je svoj stol koji je bio razmaknut propisanim razmakom.

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    Marko Paunović, 19th September 2021
  • Adding texture to a pre-made tabletop board
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    In preparation for a multiplayer scenario, I redid some surfaces on a plastic modular gaming board.

    The board had the texture of cobbled streets, but there were a few surfaces that were completely textured for some reason. In addition, modern manholes are modelled on the board, which do not correspond to the world in which the scenario will take place. I decided to cover these parts with my own stone slab texture.

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    I cut a large amount of rectangles out of thick paper to act as stone slabs.

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    I glued the boards one by one with PVA glue (drvofix) to the places that needed to be textured. Drvofix is cheap, dries more slowly so I have plenty of time to set the boards, and the paper sticks well to the plastic.

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    When the glue dried I went with a layer of diluted PVA over all the paper stone slabs to impregnate the paper with glue. This makes it tougher, it will be even harder to peel off and it will absorb water less. The latter is desira-ble because when it comes to painting I will use techniques with a lot of water.

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    When everything was completely dry, I sprayed the whole board with uneven matte black, white and (mostly) gray spray.

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    Several layers of dirty brown and greenish washes went over this after drying. I applied this with a sponge be-cause it is a large area and should have looked smeared and neglected.

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    Finally, the outer edge of the board is painted matte black.

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    " ["content_hrv"]=> string(3277) "

    U pripremi za jedan multiplayer scenarij doradila sam kupovnu plastičnu modularnu tablu za igranje.

    Tabla ima teksturu kamenih ulica, no postojalo je nekoliko površina koja su bile potpuno bez teksture iz nekog razloga. Osim toga, na tabli su izmodelirani moderni šahtovi, koji ne odgovaraju svijetu u kojem će se sce-narij održati. Te sam dijelove odlučila prekriti vlastitom teksturom kamenih ploča.

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    Iz debelog papira izrezala sam poveliku količinu pravokutnika koje će glumiti kamene ploče.

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    PVA ljepilom (drvofix) sam zalijepila ploče jednu po jednu na mjesta koja je trebalo teksturirati. Drvofix je jeftin, sporije se suši pa imam dovoljno vremena namještati ploče, i dobro lijepi papir na plastiku.

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    Kad se ljepilo osušilo prošla sam sa slojem razvodjnjenog PVA preko svih papirnatih kamenih ploča da se papir impregnira ljepilom. Od toga postane žilaviji, još teže će se odlijepiti i slabije će upijati vodu. Ovo posljednje je poželjno jer kad dođem do bojanja koristit ću tehnike s puno vode.

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    Kad je sve bilo potpuno suho posprejala sam cijelu tablu nejednolično mat crnim, bijelim i (najviše)sivim sprejem.

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    Preko toga je nakon sušenja išlo nekoliko slojeva prljavih smeđih i zelenkastih washeva. To sam nanosila spužvom jer je velika površina i trebalo je izgledati zmazano i zapušteno.

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    Na kraju, vanjski rub ploče obojan je u mat crnu.

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    " ["created"]=> string(19) "2021-09-09 13:40:59" ["modified"]=> string(19) "2021-09-09 13:40:59" } ["Member"]=> array(10) { ["id"]=> string(2) "54" ["group_id"]=> string(1) "2" ["first_name"]=> string(3) "Ana" ["last_name"]=> string(11) "Polanšćak" ["first_name_mask"]=> string(3) "ana" ["last_name_mask"]=> string(9) "polanscak" ["username"]=> string(3) "Ana" ["password"]=> string(0) "" ["born"]=> string(19) "2013-08-10 23:03:00" ["created"]=> string(19) "2013-08-10 23:04:15" } }
    Ana Polanšćak, 9th September 2021

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