UMS "Agram" : Necron Destroyer < Articles < Hobby

Necron Destroyer

Tomislav Petrović, 21nd July 2021

On the necron itself, I didn’t perform anything special as far as converting was concerned except adjusting the pose and cutting the left hand holding the rifle. The base is a little more complex. The stone slabs are made of balsa, the barrels are from GW’s 40k accessories sprue, a bit of slime glue, a bit of thick mesh for the fence windows. The light pole is made of Patton 1:35 tank tubes with a combination of Lego bricks, some parts of Apache 1:48 and some other little things.

In the last picture, you can see another feature of this miniature, ie the light pole lamps are bright to point out, or to be precise, the broken lamp hanging on the wires is flashing, and the other whole is just lit. In the vertical barrel there is a 1.5 V LR1 (SN) battery, in the reclining barrel there is a circuit that controls the oscillating diode, and below the "ground" there is a circuit that allows the second diode with a voltage characteristic of 3V to light connected to 1.5V. There is a microswitch on the lighting pole itself, which turns the diodes on and off as desired.

The most common comments on my luminous necron were, "How could you?"

I guess most people are not up to digging on the net and looking for schemes, spending money on electricity. elements, burns from a soldering iron, etc., but in case there is someone interested in adding light effects to their miniatures or a private collection of terrain, here are a few pictures and some useful tips.

To assemble an assembly that allows the LED to light or flash, you need the following elements:

-LED (light emitting diode) of 3V diameter according to your wishes (there are 3mm, 5mm ...)
-electrolytic capacitor of 100 microfarads and 63V
-capacitor depending on the flicker speed you want to achieve (0.01 microfarad gives a flicker frequency of 1Hz, 0.001 microfarads of 10Hz, etc.)
-voltage converter ICL7660 or ICL 7660S (integrated circuit)
-housing for voltage converter
-insulated wire for connecting elements
-1.5 V battery

-tools: pliers cutters, soldering iron, soldering wire, not necessary but sometimes a voltmeter / ammeter comes in handy.

These elements are connected according to the following scheme:

VOLTAGE CONVERTER (ICL 7660 or ICL 7660S):

The first thing to know is how to determine which pin is on the voltage converter - Place it in front of you so that the point / hole on the top of the integrator is on the left. The integrator has eight pins and they go in this order: bottom row from left to right 1-4, top row from right to left 5-8. ()

Another important thing about integrators is that they are very sensitive to high temperatures. Since the soldering iron develops approx. 180-420 C, direct soldering to the integrator pins will probably burn it out. Instead, obtain an integrator housing with eight pin holes and solder everything to the housing pins, and when the soldering is complete, insert the integrator into the housing.

ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITOR (C2):

It has its two legs, one of which is + pole and the other-pole. Minus the pole is marked on the el. capacitor. It is very important to connect it exactly as it is drawn in the diagram, ie + half of the condom on pin 2 of the integrator, and - half of the condo on pin 4 of the integrator. This is important because electrolytic capacitors, unlike ordinary ones, are precharged to a certain voltage (in our case to 63V) and in the case of a wrong connection when they are connected to the power supply, they explode.

CAPACITOR (C1):

Unlike electrolytic ones, ordinary ones are not precharged, they have an air gap and not electrolytes, and it doesn't matter which pin you connect to pin 7 and which to pin 8. Take care only of the oscillation frequency you want to achieve.

LED:

LEDs are semiconductor elements that emit light when they are powered. The advantage of LEDs over light bulbs is that they consume much less electricity and do not burn out. The LED has two electrodes, the anode is longer (+), and the cathode is shorter (-). The anode is connected to the positive pole of the source and the cathode to the negative. In the case of a reverse connection, nothing will most likely happen to the LED, but it will not light up either.

Similar to integrated circuits and LEDs, they are sensitive to high temperatures and can burn out during prolonged soldering. I advise you to stick the pliers to the electrode you are currently soldering (between the tip of the LED and the place you are soldering) when soldering the LEDs. In this way, the pliers will serve you not only to hold but also to dissipate heat.

The diagram still shows an element marked R1 and is drawn intermittently. It’s a photodiode and it serves to keep the LED from shining in daylight - for some sort of battery saving. Feel free to take it out of the circuit, but rather add a switch between pin 3 and the half of the battery so that you can turn off and turn on the LEDs as desired.

This circuit allows the LEDs to vibrate at a certain frequency. If you want your LED to light up constantly, simply remove capacitor C1 from the circuit and connect everything else.

The advantage of this circuit is that it allows the LEDs provided for a 3V power supply to be lit only at 1.5V. This in turn gives a greater choice of suitably small batteries.

In the end for those who put in the effort and read the entire post to the end, this seems harder and more complicated than it really is. I tried to write explanations so that the circuit can be assembled by someone who has no idea what a capacitor is, for example. Honestly, I don't fully understand some things either (what exactly does C2 do in the circle: -k). My point is, if you have never done anything like this, it is still enough to buy the elements and connect them as shown in the picture and to illuminate for example the landing drop for 40k.

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	U subotu 25.10.2025. održao se Foto Video Show & ModelMania Zagreb u Kongresnoj dvorani na Zagrebačkom Velesajmu. UMS Agram je nastupio s prezentacijom rada naših raznih programa poput Advent u Agramu, Agram Group Build, Agram Lego Sekcija i Knjižnica i čitaonica UMS "Agram".

	

	  

	  

	  

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Marko Paunović, 5th November 2025

Necropolis Board part 1

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	In October we started with our first board for Necropolis, and with an appropriate theme! – the Eternal Autumn configuration from the Necropolis rulebook. The configuration is such that it only requires 3 trees, which we considered too boring, so instead of one tree, we plan to build a cubic lime kiln and 2 streams.

	  

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	The next step is to cover the entire board with a mixture of gypsum and sand and make the stove itself.

	  
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	U listopadu smo započeli s našim prvim boardom za Necropolis, i to s primjerenom tematikom! – Eternal Autumn konfiguracijom iz Necropolis rulebooka. Konfiguracija je takva da nalaže samo 3 stabla, što smo smatrali predosadnim te umjesto jednog stabla kanimo izraditi kockastu vapnenu peć i 2 potoka.

	  

	Board je inspiriran Hawthorneovom pričom Ethan Brand, gdje nekoliko likova priča o neoprostivom grijehu (pored vapnare usred američke pastoralne idile). Estetski ciljamo na ranu jesen s ruralnim motivima, uz kvrgava stabla (ala Burtonov Sleepy Hollow) i nekoliko bundeva.

	  

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	Stabla su zapravo pravo mangrovo drvo, tako da ima prirodne kvrge i zavijutke. Kako bismo dodali sleepy hollow šmek, izdubili smo nekolika rupa u drvu gdje bismo smjestili greenstuff lica. Jedno smo drvo poduprli s komadima borove kore kako ne bi bilo previše nagnuti i ometalo igru.

	  

	Sljedeći korak je prekrivanje cijelog boarda smjesom gipsa i pijeska te izrada same peći.

	  
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Antoni Pastuović, 5th November 2025

WE ATTENDED: AmuletD20 Grand Tournament 2025

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	In early October I had the opportunity to visit my neighbors from the Amuletd20 association. This time it wasn't an artsy Turnip28 event, but a huge tournament in AOS and Conquest games.

	  

	Besides the main event, there were tables playing Kings of War, as well as Warhammer: The Old World, where I came with my Chaos Dwarfs.

	  

	Unfortunately, I think TOW was the least represented with four players, but this little community was wonderful! Players helped each other with the rules and the games were very friendly. In addition to my choirs, there was also an army of High Elves at the event, as well as two armies of Brettons.

	  

	  

	  

	I spent my event fighting the noble knights of Brettonia, and I believe that my dwarves were helped by the atypical mobility obtained from the monsters (Wyverna, Lammasu and Bale Taurus) accompanied by the antithesis of HŽ (Iron Daemon) and a spell that increased the infantry's mobility.

	  

	The Kings of War tables were much more dynamic, with more players, more games, and the waxes themselves were far more diverse. I'm glad that the tables were close so I had the opportunity to hang out with the hosts Luka and Vane.. It was definitely a surprise when our Mario visited us and hung out with us.

	  

	I managed to find enough time to walk around the rest of the event - and it was impressive to see so many players in one place. Amuletd20 really did a phenomenal job for their first event.

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	After the event, we went to the association's premises to socialize a little more. And, if you're curious about what it was like there, come to the next Amulet event yourself, you certainly won't regret it.

	  

	P.S. Many thanks to Luka, Vana and Mita for the invitation and hospitality!
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	Početkom listopada imao sam priliku posjetiti susjede iz udruge Amuletd20. Ovog puta nije bio artsy Turnip28 event, nego ogroman turnir u AOS i Conquest igrama.

	  

	Osim main eventa, bilo je stolova na kojima se igralo i Kings of War, kao i Warhammer: The Old World gdje sam došao sa svojim Chaos Dwarfovima.

	  

	Nažalost, mislim da je TOW bio najslabije zastupljen s četiri igrača, ali je ovaj mali community bio divan! Igrači su si međusobno pomagali s pravilima i partije su bile jako Friendly, Uz moje chorfove, na eventu je bila i jedna vojska High Elfova, kao i dvije vojske Brettonaca.

	  

	  

	  

	Svoj event proveo sam boreći se plemenitim vitezovima Brettonie, a vjerujem da je mojim patuljcima pomogla netipična mobilnost dobivena čudovištima (Wyverna, Lammasu i Bale Taurus) u pratnji antiteze HŽ-a (Iron Daemon) i čarolije koja je pješadiji povećavala mobilnost.

	  

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	Uspio sam uhvatiti dovoljno vremena da prošećem i ostatkom eventa - i bilo je impresivno vidjeti toliko igrača na istom mjestu. Amuletd20 je zaista odradio fenomenalan posao za prvi event koji organiziraju.

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	Nakon eventa, otišli smo do prostora udruge podružiti se još malo. A, ako vas zanima kako je tamo bilo, dođite i sami na idući Amuletov event, sigurno nećete požaliti.

	  

	P.S. Veliko hvala Luki, Vani i Miti na pozivu i gostoprimstvu!
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Domagoj Krpan, 30th October 2025

Back to Basics Workshops in Medveščak Library

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	During October and November, we held our Back to Basics miniature painting workshops for the youngest at the Zagreb City Libraries.

	

	

	The first set of three workshops was held in the Youth Department of the Medveščak Library on October 2, 9 and 11, 2025.

	

	

	During the workshops, our youngest participants painted chibi figures from the UMS Agram line and made a castle from upcycled materials.

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	More photos can be found on our social media.

	
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	Tijekom listopada i studenog u Knjižnicama Grada Zagreba smo održali naše Back to Basics radionice bojanja minijatura za najmlađe. 

	

	

	Prvi set od tri radionice održan je u Odjelu za mlade Knjižnice Medveščak 2., 9. i 11.10.2025. 

	

	

	Tijekom radionica naši najmlađi polaznici su bojali chibi figure iz linije UMS Agram te izrađivali dvorac od upcycle materijala.

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	Više fotografija potražite na našim socijalnim mrežama!

	
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Krunoslav Belinić, 13th October 2025

Gaslands - Tutorial II

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	In this article I will briefly describe how I painted another set of three cars for Gaslands. Same as last time, I started with a black undercoat.

	

	As I decided to keep the colour of the vehicles matt black, I left it at that and proceeded to paint the windshields. Using much the same method I used for the yellow crew, I applied the chosen paint scheme. Unlike blue windshields with the yellow crew, here I decided to use the yellow/red combo.

	

	I then added chrome.

	

	In the end, I added metallic details such as guns etc.

	

	It was time to add the decals. I first painted all the surfaces with gloss varnish. Then I added the decals and after they set properly, I covered everything with Ultra Matt Varnish..

	

	And thus ended the painting process.

	

	GALLERY OF THE TWO FINISHED CREWS

	

	

	

	

	

	

	
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	U ovom ću  članku opisati kako sam obojao drugi set od tri autića za Gaslands demo partije. Kao i prošli puta, krenuo sam s crnim undercoatom. 

	

	S obzirom da sam odlučio da ovaj crew bude mat crn, farbanje karoserija sam tu prekinuo i počeo sam sa staklima. Slično kao i prošli put, koristio sam sličnu shemu, ali u drugim bojama. Za razliku od plavih refleksija na žutim autima, na crnima sam se odlučio za žuto/crvenu kombinaciju. 

	

	Dodao sam krom.

	

	I na kraju dodao metalne dijelove poput oružja.

	

	Na ovim autima, odlučio sam dodati i naljepnice. Prvo sam na površine s naljepnicama stavio gloss lak. Potom sam postavio naljepnicce i nakon što su se dobro osušile sam te iste površine prekrio mat lakom. 

	

	Time sam završio posao...

	

	GALERIJA ZAVRŠENIH RADOVA!

	

	

	

	

	

	

	
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