UMS "Agram" : Necron Destroyer < Articles < Hobby

Necron Destroyer

Tomislav Petrović, 21nd July 2021

On the necron itself, I didn’t perform anything special as far as converting was concerned except adjusting the pose and cutting the left hand holding the rifle. The base is a little more complex. The stone slabs are made of balsa, the barrels are from GW’s 40k accessories sprue, a bit of slime glue, a bit of thick mesh for the fence windows. The light pole is made of Patton 1:35 tank tubes with a combination of Lego bricks, some parts of Apache 1:48 and some other little things.

In the last picture, you can see another feature of this miniature, ie the light pole lamps are bright to point out, or to be precise, the broken lamp hanging on the wires is flashing, and the other whole is just lit. In the vertical barrel there is a 1.5 V LR1 (SN) battery, in the reclining barrel there is a circuit that controls the oscillating diode, and below the "ground" there is a circuit that allows the second diode with a voltage characteristic of 3V to light connected to 1.5V. There is a microswitch on the lighting pole itself, which turns the diodes on and off as desired.

The most common comments on my luminous necron were, "How could you?"

I guess most people are not up to digging on the net and looking for schemes, spending money on electricity. elements, burns from a soldering iron, etc., but in case there is someone interested in adding light effects to their miniatures or a private collection of terrain, here are a few pictures and some useful tips.

To assemble an assembly that allows the LED to light or flash, you need the following elements:

-LED (light emitting diode) of 3V diameter according to your wishes (there are 3mm, 5mm ...)
-electrolytic capacitor of 100 microfarads and 63V
-capacitor depending on the flicker speed you want to achieve (0.01 microfarad gives a flicker frequency of 1Hz, 0.001 microfarads of 10Hz, etc.)
-voltage converter ICL7660 or ICL 7660S (integrated circuit)
-housing for voltage converter
-insulated wire for connecting elements
-1.5 V battery

-tools: pliers cutters, soldering iron, soldering wire, not necessary but sometimes a voltmeter / ammeter comes in handy.

These elements are connected according to the following scheme:

VOLTAGE CONVERTER (ICL 7660 or ICL 7660S):

The first thing to know is how to determine which pin is on the voltage converter - Place it in front of you so that the point / hole on the top of the integrator is on the left. The integrator has eight pins and they go in this order: bottom row from left to right 1-4, top row from right to left 5-8. ()

Another important thing about integrators is that they are very sensitive to high temperatures. Since the soldering iron develops approx. 180-420 C, direct soldering to the integrator pins will probably burn it out. Instead, obtain an integrator housing with eight pin holes and solder everything to the housing pins, and when the soldering is complete, insert the integrator into the housing.

ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITOR (C2):

It has its two legs, one of which is + pole and the other-pole. Minus the pole is marked on the el. capacitor. It is very important to connect it exactly as it is drawn in the diagram, ie + half of the condom on pin 2 of the integrator, and - half of the condo on pin 4 of the integrator. This is important because electrolytic capacitors, unlike ordinary ones, are precharged to a certain voltage (in our case to 63V) and in the case of a wrong connection when they are connected to the power supply, they explode.

CAPACITOR (C1):

Unlike electrolytic ones, ordinary ones are not precharged, they have an air gap and not electrolytes, and it doesn't matter which pin you connect to pin 7 and which to pin 8. Take care only of the oscillation frequency you want to achieve.

LED:

LEDs are semiconductor elements that emit light when they are powered. The advantage of LEDs over light bulbs is that they consume much less electricity and do not burn out. The LED has two electrodes, the anode is longer (+), and the cathode is shorter (-). The anode is connected to the positive pole of the source and the cathode to the negative. In the case of a reverse connection, nothing will most likely happen to the LED, but it will not light up either.

Similar to integrated circuits and LEDs, they are sensitive to high temperatures and can burn out during prolonged soldering. I advise you to stick the pliers to the electrode you are currently soldering (between the tip of the LED and the place you are soldering) when soldering the LEDs. In this way, the pliers will serve you not only to hold but also to dissipate heat.

The diagram still shows an element marked R1 and is drawn intermittently. It’s a photodiode and it serves to keep the LED from shining in daylight - for some sort of battery saving. Feel free to take it out of the circuit, but rather add a switch between pin 3 and the half of the battery so that you can turn off and turn on the LEDs as desired.

This circuit allows the LEDs to vibrate at a certain frequency. If you want your LED to light up constantly, simply remove capacitor C1 from the circuit and connect everything else.

The advantage of this circuit is that it allows the LEDs provided for a 3V power supply to be lit only at 1.5V. This in turn gives a greater choice of suitably small batteries.

In the end for those who put in the effort and read the entire post to the end, this seems harder and more complicated than it really is. I tried to write explanations so that the circuit can be assembled by someone who has no idea what a capacitor is, for example. Honestly, I don't fully understand some things either (what exactly does C2 do in the circle: -k). My point is, if you have never done anything like this, it is still enough to buy the elements and connect them as shown in the picture and to illuminate for example the landing drop for 40k.

Latest articles

We visited: MOSONSHOW 2025

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Last year, after participating in the Black Queen H&MPC 2024, our friends from Hungary, Gabor and Erika, asked me if I would be willing to judge at the Mosonshow 2025. I must admit that the question caught me off guard, I did not expect such an honor. I accepted in principle, considering that the competition itself was quite far away at that time.

As you can see in the photo, I accepted and headed to Hungary on the last weekend in April. This is my first time participating in this big competition and I have to admit that I wasn't really attracted to it before – precisely because of its size. Long waiting lines, endless lines at registration and the like are really something that didn't make me happy. After a little bit of asking around, I came up with a plan to come on Friday (I even took a day off for this) as soon as the doors opened and to do the registration and set up of the models (in categories that I don't judge, right :D ) so that on Saturday I could deal with the competition in peace.

Saturday started, as I expected, with work. Being a judge, although "prestigious", is not a fun activity at all. Count on a good part of your Saturday being taken up by duties. First there is a judges' meeting where the organizer introduces us to the criteria and method of judging they want. After more or less questions, the meeting ends and (fortunately) there is a meal prepared for the judges. And the organizer realizes that it is better for the judges to be satisfied, or at least full. After the reception, we head to the judging. On the spot, you meet the members of the jury whom you will be judging with. There are two category ranks. Hobby and Master. I judged three Hobby categories (Fantasy/SF figures, Fantasy/SF busts and Fantasy/SF dioramas and vignettes). Alongside me in the jury for these categories, there were Eszter Elek from Hungary and Keigo Murakami from Japan. The judging lasted until about 4 pm. That meant I missed the workshops I wanted to visit - but that is the price of judging.

During the judging, I also decided to award the Best of Show by UMS Agram award which went to Mr. Zijie Li in China.

The following is a gallery of some of the more notable works from the miniatures category.

Of course, at this huge competition, with over 2,500 exhibits, it was impossible to photograph everything, and below are some of the author's more interesting works.

Besides the handful of truly beautiful entries, the best part of the competition was, as always, the social aspect. Socializing with foreign friends and making new friends is the highlight of such competitions.

Finally, there was some shopping, and the Bolyai Makett Klub from Budapest made sure I didn't leave empty-handed. Thank you!!

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Tijekom prošle godine, nakon sudjelovanja na Black Queen H&MPC 2024. naši prijatelji iz Mađarske, Gabor i Erika, su me upitali da li bih bio voljan suditi na Mosonshow-u 2025. Moram priznati da me pitanje zateklo, takvu čast nisam očekivao. Načelno sam prihvatio, s obzirom da je samo natjecanje bilo dosta udaljeno u tom trenutku.

Kao što vidite na fotografiji, prihvatio sam te sam se zadnjeg vikenda u travnju uputio prema Mađarskoj. Ovo je prvi puta da sudjelujem na tom velikom natjecanju i moram priznati da me prije nije baš privlačilo – upravo zbog svoje veličine. Dugi redovi za čekanje, nepregledne kolone pri registraciji i slično stvarno je nešto što me nije veselilo. Nakon malo raspitivanja što i kako, skovao sam plan da dođem u petak (uzeo i godišnji zbog toga) čim otvore vrata i da odradim registraciju i postavljanje modela (u kategorije koje ne sudim, jel :D ) tako da se u subotu mogu u miru baviti sa natjecanjem.

Subota je počela, kako sam i očekivao, radno. Biti sudac, iako „prestižno“, nije nimalo zabavna aktivnost. Računajte da vam dobar dio subote otpada na dužnosti. Prvo ide sudački sastanak na kojem nas organizator upoznaje sa kriterijem i načinom suđenja koji želi. Nakon više ili manje pitanja, sastanak završava i (na svu sreću) slijedi gablec za suce. I organizator shvaća da je bolje da suci budu zadovoljni, ili barem siti. Nakon gableca, upućujemo se na suđenje. Na licu mjesta upoznajete članove žirija s kojima sudite. Postoje dva ranga kategorija. Hobby i Master. Ja sam sudio tri Hobby kategorije (Fantasy/SF figure, Fantasy/SF biste i Fantasy/SF diorame i vinjete). Pored moje malenkosti u žiriju za ove kategorije bili su Eszter Elek iz Mađarske te Keigo Murakami iz Japana. Suđenje je trajalo do cca 16h. Time sam propustio radionice koje sam htio posjetiti – ali to je cijena suđenja.

Tijekom suđenja, odlučio sam dodijeliti i Best of Show by UMS Agram nagradu koja je otišla u ruke gospodinu Zijie Li-u u Kinu.

Slijedi galerija nekih zapaženijih radova iz kategorija minijatura.

Naravno, na ovom golemom natjecanju, sa preko 2500 izložaka bilo je nemoguće sve fotografirati, a u nastavku slijede neki od autoru zanimljivijih radova.

Pored pregršt usitinu predivnih radova, najbolji dio natjecanja bio je kao i uvijek društveni aspekt. Druženje s inozemnim prijateljima te stjecanje novih prijateljstava vrhunac su ovakvih natjecanja.

Za kraj, bilo je tu i shoppinga, a da ne odem praznih ruku, pobrinuo se Bolyai Makett Klub iz Budimpešte. Hvala!!

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Marko Paunović, 5th May 2025

March to Hren28 week 5

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	Our team is preparing to perform at the Turnip28 tournament called H.R.E.N.28 in Slovenia in July. Ana, Mario, Domagoj, Seb and Antoni assemble their armies and paint, and we follow them on their way!

	  

	MARIO: „This week I finished the elephant and was finishing up the toff (Boletus). I added some fun details like the sleeping bag with the nobleman and the fishing rod, with added crows.

	  

	Boletus will have a banner of his own, and I modified his giraffe's neck and added more mushrooms."

	  

	  
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	Naša ekipa se sprema za nastup na Turnip28 turniru pod nazivom H.R.E.N.28 u Sloveniji u srpnju. Ana, Mario, Domagoj, Seb i Antoni slažu svoje vojske i farbaju, a mi ih pratimo na njihovom putu! 

	  

	MARIO: „Ovaj tjedan sam završio slona i dovršavao toffa (Boletusa). Dodao sam neke zabavne detalje poput vreće za spavanje sa plemićem i štapa za pecanje, sa dodanim vranama.

	  

	Boletus će imati barjak za sebe, a njegovoj žirafi sam modificirao vrat i dodao još gljiva.“

	  

	  
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Mario Grgurev, 5th May 2025

AGRAM LEGO SECTION - Orient Express: Third Lecture and continuation of the build

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	U srijedu 30.4. u sklopu naše Agram Lego Sekcije nastavili smo sa serijom predavanja paralelno sa izradom LEGO makete vlaka Orient Express!

	Treće predavanje u ovoj seriji je počelo u 18:00 i trajalo je otprilike 45 minuta u kojem nas je naš dežurni inženjer strojarstva Marko Paunović upoznao sa radom parnih lokomotiva.

	

	

	Ulaz na predavanja je besplatan i otvoren za sve te prijave nisu potrebne.

	

	Izrada makete je rezervirana za članove Agram Lego Sekcije. Ukoliko se želite uključiti u sljedeće projekte, javite se za više informacija na ums.agram@gmail.com .

	

	
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Marko Paunović, 5th May 2025

AGRAM LEGO SECTION - Orient Express: Second Lecture and continuation of the build

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	U srijedu 23.4. u sklopu naše Agram Lego Sekcije nastavili smo sa serijom predavanja paralelno sa izradom LEGO makete vlaka Orient Express!

	Drugo predavanje u ovoj seriji je počelo u 18:00 i trajalo je otprilike 45 minuta u kojem nas je naš dežurni inženjer strojarstva Marko Paunović upoznao sa osnovama parnih strojeva.

	

	

	Ulaz na predavanja je besplatan i otvoren za sve te prijave nisu potrebne.

	

	

	Izrada makete je rezervirana za članove Agram Lego Sekcije. Ukoliko se želite uključiti u sljedeće projekte, javite se za više informacija na ums.agram@gmail.com .

	

	
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Marko Paunović, 24th April 2025

March to Hren28 week 4

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	Our team is preparing to perform at the Turnip28 tournament called H.R.E.N.28 in Slovenia in July. Ana, Mario, Domagoj, Seb and Antoni assemble their armies and paint, and we follow them on their way!

	  

	MARIO: „My next step was working on Proboscis, I wanted to add some texture to it so I sculpted his fur from brown stuff, along with a textured mass of mud on his back. I wanted to achieve the effect of overgrown plants and mushrooms on the skin. I also finished the existing trunks and added another pair.“

	  

	SEB: „Over the past week I have continued work on the conversion of the cannon Snail Knight.

	  

	I added Liquid Green Stuff (from GSW) to the metal parts (the paperclip) and then sponged it on to get a rust plus algae effect so that the overall impression was: they just came out of the water.

	  

	Today I added textures to the base.

	  

	And to end this part of the army building, before my trip to England/Scotland, here's a close-up of the snails pulling the cart. The rest will follow at the end of May, as far as I'm concerned!

	  
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	MARIO: „Moj sljedeći korak je bio rad na Proboscisu, želio sam mu dodati teksture pa sam mu kipario krzno od brown stuffa, zajedno sa teksturnom masom blata na leđima. Želim postići efekt obraslog bilja i gljiva na koži. Ujedno sam doradio postojeće surle i dodao još jedan par.

	  

	SEB: „U proteklom tjednu nastavio sam rad na konverziji topovskog Snail Knighta.

	  

	Na metalne dijelove (spajalicu) sam dodao Liquid Green Stuff (od GSW-a) i onda ga stipplao spužvicom da dobijem efekt hrđe plus algi kako bi cjelokupni dojam bio: upravo su izašli iz vode.

	  

	Danas sam dodao teksture po bazi.

	  

	I za kraj ovog dijela izrade vojske, prije mog puta u Englesku/Škotsku, evo jedan close-up puževa koji vuku zapregu. Nastavak slijedi krajem svibnja, što se mene tiče!“

	  

	 
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Mario Grgurev, 24th April 2025

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